GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: dansmk3 on 23 May 2011, 13:56
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Hi Guys,
Am looking for some help with my 2E engine.
To start off with, my cambelt went on me when pulling out of a junction the other day. so i managed to get the car towed home.
i bought a new timing kit fitted it and it would not start, and the timing was spot on. so i bought a complete head off of ebay which "came off of a running engine". when i got it i cleaned it up good using injector and carb cleaner. i done the same for the pistons too.
obv have fitted new head gasket when reassembling the engine. have got everything back on, stuck the timing belt on quite a few times until i got the timing spot on again and she runs, but she runs like a dog, propper restricted and very very lumpy. wont rev above 3000rpm. i thought it could be a blockage so sat with foot reving at 2000rpm for about 10mins and then noticed the cat had started to glow. so i soon stopped that. lol.
i have just altered the ignition timing so that when everything was at TDC the dizzy was alsao at its no1 mark and has still not made any difference.
has anyone got any ideas? because i am starting to lose patience with this now. its been 3weeks! i love my car but iv got a hatred for her atm. lol
cheers guys
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Sounds like your timing is out
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cheers for replying wayne.
i pretty certain the timing is spot on, ill let the car run for a couple of minutes, switch off and crank to tdc by hand and everything is lining up where it should. i have even taken the green bung out of the gearbox and can see the tdc mark in there too.
one thing i was tempted to do was completely remove the lower cam belt cover and then put the belt on as i would then see if im a tooth out. but what is frustrating is even after running the car it will still line up at tdc both at the cam and the crank and even the gearbox.
sorry to ramble on mate jus want this sorted and dont like paying garages if i can help it :smiley: :smiley:
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defo sounds like a timing issue
fuel air mixtures wrong making cat get hot
bet your manifolds a bit redder also :shocked:
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yeah you know that! loool! must admit started to sh1t maself a little bit when i looked under the car!!!
can you guys suggest any other ways to get the timing spot on then?
when i put the belt on it obv goes round the crank, then i will put it around the aux sprocket, now what i do next is take up all the slack and put it over the cam then tensioner. have i been doing this correctly? :embarassed:
i will admit the haynes manual or mk3 golf gti is total crap! they jemp from one engine code to the other!!!
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I would also check your ign. timing.
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Its likely to be ignition timing to far retarded if its glowing like that.
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ignition timing - i checked that this morning, i took the belt off and rotated the aux sprocket til the rotar arm of the dizzy was pointing to the no1 mark on the distributor then put belt back on exactly how it was, i know that because i marked the top of the belt at tdc before i took it off.
unless what i done this morning was not the ignition timing?? :sick:
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Sounds like your timing is out. (or perhaps a tooth out on your cambelt?)
Should be 6 degrees BTDC if memory serves me correct but these things change with each engine code! Keep in mind that the ECU will automatically adjust the timing as you rev (ie. using a strobelight is basically useless).
Good luck!
FREEZABURN
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ah god this is getting to me now lol!
tempted to just buy a new lump lol!
see the haynes manual says nothing about 6o btdc and nothing about atdc! on the crank i have a blue coloured notch which is lined up with the arrow on the lower cam belt cover, then the crank has a blue mark on a notch with O on the left and T on the right, and that is lined up with the same marks on the rocker cover.
i take it the O and the T mean On Top as in TDC? this is really baffling me now and am usually quite good with fixing things on my car lol
would you advise to buy a timing strobe to check the timing? or even better anyone that knows their stuff live in or near london???? :grin:
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(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c145/Rmachines/Timing.jpg)
As long as you have done that .... And the dizzy is lined up (you can rotate to get it spot on if need be) Its correct, the ECU will advance and retard the timing using the coil pack to correct anything within the range of the dizzy.
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Ah seen! Cheers for the diagram!
I don't think haynes said anything about the aux sprocket having a notch!!
So get the aux lined up with the crank while the crank is lined up with its mark on the lower cover?? Would that be correct?
Cheers for all your input and help guys!!!!!
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Correct, The crank and aux line up with each other, i dont think there is another mark on the bottom pulley unless some one put one there, Crank and AUX need to be dead on with each other, and each other only, camshaft speaks for its self. Dont do it from above, line it up by looking through the wheel arch, as its easy to look correct when its actually a tooth out.
(you have to put the bottom pulley back on to do that as per diagram, Line it up dead on (remeber the bottom pulley only goes on one way :grin: Then take a look at the dizzy, if the dizzy isnt dead on, and the AUX is, unbolt the 13mm dizzy clamp bolt and twist the dizzy till its lined up with the mark, then retry :wink:
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Cool!
Well I was goin to sleep as am working nights but me thinks this is more important! Lol!
Can you clarify what the arrow on the lower cam cover is for then? As iv been lining the crank with this arrow! And not the aux! As for the dizzy does that twist out or pull out? As it won't pull out what soever!
Every 2 rotations on the crank is one on the cam right? So as long as the cam is at tdc my number piston will be up! :grin:
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update:
i have taken all belts off and the crank sprocket. got the aux sprocket round so from what i could see it was align with the notch on the crank. and the crank still lined up with the arrow on the lower cam cover.
i made sure that nothing moved whilst i was reassembling it all. tensioned it all up and it was still spot on.
fired it up and still the same old thing of running rough as!
how can you make sure that nothing moves when putting the lower cam cover on as it totally covers up the aux sprocket.
i can see why garages charge and extortionate amount of money to do these things but they aint no different from you or i! welol maybe i aint there yet lol!
really dont want to bite the bullet on this one but its getting very bloody tempting!!!
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Whereabouts are you based, I am sure a member close by could have a look. :smiley:
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Am in Dartford, Kent
So if anyone is nearby and wanna help me out! I aint turnin ya away! Lol
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I think you have done it correctly, Its simple to do on the Mk3 i dont think your doing anything wrong, i think there might be another issue. As for what that issue is... i really dont know
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The only prob is making sure the aux and the crank sprocket stay and are aligned!
Tou can only look down through the engine bay as they are so close to the bodywork! And the you have to put the lower cam cover on before the crank so how do you make sure nothing moves?
I will try tomorrow without the lower casing on and see what she runs like! Other than that I might take all the valves out of my old head see which ones are bent and replace the bent ones with some non bent ones out of the other head!
If I could post pics from my blackberry onto here I'd show you the pistons, what they were like to now!
I was wondering is it worth trying to reset the ecu and seeing how she runs then? Hmm might be worth a try me thinks!
Lastly does anyone now if you cab do a paperclip test on the ecu and read the amount of flashes for fault codes??
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You can turn inter shaft until dizzy lines up with the notch, or turn dizzy until arm lines up with notch.
Timing mark on inter sprocket is not too critical.
TDC on cam and crank is very important, bottom pully has a marked tooth which should be at TDC, notch in belt pulley is not that accurate, i never use it.
Check cylinder 1 is at TDC to make sure you actualy have reached TDC, My AGG has few other marks which can be miss leading if going just by marks in the casting
Have you got the leads in the right firing order?
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Have you got the leads in the right firing order?
Yea ... that will cause this to happen for sure :grin: Also a mistake i have made in the past!!!
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Cheers mate! Yeah leads are in 1 3 4 2
I must admit when getting the crank to tdc by aliging the marks on the cover and the crank thr no1 piston is not at its most highest point! A few more teeth round and then it is! Surely the marks can't be out on it! Is it that simple?
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sell u my mint polished 2E engine for £100 and solve all ya probs in 1 go :cool:
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Tempted much! You got any pics mate? Looks like I need to find an engine crane if I'm doin a lump swap lol
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I still dont think you need a new engine, i cant see why a mechanical fault would cause this without other/obvious issues! Can you not get a local mechanic to have a look at your timing?
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I'm going to give the timing another go later on today!
I can only think the other reason why there is an arrow on the lower cam case pointing down is not to identify TDC on the crank but to say that the lower cam case fits on with arrow pointing down! That's what I like to think anyway! Lol
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Have never noticed/used the arrow on the crank, just make sure the aux and crank point to each other!
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I will do mate! And hopefully that will be the end of this lol! But ill post up pics to show ya! Also how can you make sure that both crank and aux are lined up perfect? All you can do is look down on both of them and they overlap???
I'm thinkin get an allan key check it in the notch of the crank and when the aux slots in that's it done! Just askin if there is an easier/sure fire way of being 100% certain!
Also why can't I upload pics from my fone? How long is that? Loooool :laugh:
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They do sort of overlap, the little cut out on the crank pulley should be lined up with the dot, try using a mirror with a torch, might find it easier to see if its dead on
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The dot??? Please clarify mate, but iv been lining up with the OT marks! Obv I have noticed the dots on both cam and aux pulleys but they both have the OT markings on them also!!!
Sledge hammer sounding good right about now!! Hahaha :grin:
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No, there is an O-T mark on the camshaft, that speaks for its self, the crankshaft doesnt have any marks on it, so you put the alternator pulley back on, and use the little notch on that to line up with the little dot on the intermediate (dizzy) pulley
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(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c145/Rmachines/untitled-8.jpg)
Paint the cutout on the pulley with tipex or something similar, same on the AUX Sprocket, makes it easier to see!!
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great, i will do that tomorrow as right now have got horrific thunder storms.
i will say that on my aux pulley i do have the OT mark. the aux pulley does look just like the cam pulley you know!
well i will try the dot on the aux with the notch cut out on the crank! fingers crossed it will fire up all sweet.
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just thought id show a couple of pics of the bottom end before and after cleaning lol
(http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/dj_madman/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTEwNTIwLTAwMDA5LmpwZw.jpg)
(http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/dj_madman/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTEwNTIwLTAwMDEwLmpwZw.jpg)
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yuk that was a bit gunky
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Yup lol
Right everything is timed up spot on! (Even made markings on the engine to make sure!) But she still don't wanna kno! I'm kinda hopin that coz iv kinda damaged the rotar arm a min ago this could be why! Lol! And I'm also going to fit a new temp sensor!!
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Fit a new rotor arm and try again, temp sensor wont be the cause of this problem, although it doesnt mean it doesnt need replacing!
Now its all timed up as per cambelt alignment, Double check that the dizzy rotor arm is lined up, just coz the aux shaft is lined up with the cam and crank, doesnt mean the dizzy hasnt been turned, to check the dizzy rotor arm points to the little notch on the dizzy body. Fingers crossed :smiley:
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When it was all aligned correctly the dizzy was out! That's how I broke my rotor arm tryin to remove the dizzy! But got dizzy out and the rotor arm lines up with the little cut out! So all I gotta do is fit nrew arm and see what happens!!
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aqnd still dead!!! she dont even wanna kick into action now!!!! :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: :sick: :sick: :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry:
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right here is a pic of the crank and aux lined up
(http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/dj_madman/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTEwNTI3LTAwMDEyLmpwZw.jpg)
and here is one of the aux sprocket with the ot marks on it :huh: :huh: :huh:
(http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee372/dj_madman/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTEwNTI3LTAwMDEzLmpwZw.jpg)
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thats it had enough!!!! she wont work and she aint gonna work!!!! she wont even tick over now!!!
i give up!!! grrr
i probably wont but thats how im feelin right now!!!!!
ANYONE IN KENT THAT DOES CAM BELTS??? COME HELP ME OUT!!! PLEASE LOL
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Have you broken your Hall sensor on the dizzy? New dizzy time if you have, will stop it from starting, and if its taken a clout, could well be the case... You not left it unplugged have you? (2pin plug on the dizzy)
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Naaa that aint unplugged! That got plugged straight back in!
Did I take it out when doin temp sensor? Now u got me doubtin maself! Lol!
All I know is its been a month of the cam belt going! All pistibs are fine as per pic replaced with a second hand head off of a running gti and the bloody thing won't run!
Iv even left lower cam casing off so I can make sure I aint a tooth or nefin but sometimes it does go a bit wonky from the tdc! However the belt is bloody tight between crank and aux then upto cam and tensioner! I really don't get it!!! Lol
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Cambelt should NOT be tight, there is a specified tension, should turn through 90 degrees on the longest stretch with finger and thumb pressure. Over tight belt will cause issues, and will snap very very quickly :undecided:
Unless the new head has cracked or somthing stupid like that, i take it you torqued it all down correctly?
I really cant think of much else it can be :embarassed:
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Yh mate all torqued up! Even tho I tensioned it up tight I can still turn the longest sttetch 90o!
I think my last ditch effort is take it all back off, get both heads and take all valves out and inspect em, if thisnew head I got off ebay has any bent valves ill be screwin! Bloody false listing!
How much drama is reseaing valves etc? This is the only other thing I can think of doing! Or wait for a compression tester to arrive? But I needed my car 3weeks ago!
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Compression test it first, then might be worth thinking about having the head off. If there is a bent valve they usually sound very tappity as the lifters tend to stick.
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will do mate.
just seen halfords sell compression testers for £23, so think il go buy one of them and see what my engine is saying!
if compression is all good in all cylinders i really dont know what else it could be!
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right guys time for the compression test results
All results are in BAR
Cyl 1 - 13.5
Cyl 2 - 13
Cyl 3 - 13
Cyl 4 - 13
now to me that all looks good slight deviation on the first cylinder but thats nothing major
which direction to head in now then? there cant be much left to try. unless take head all off again clean up all valves om both heads that i have and find the 8 best ones.
or rent a garage and make my dub a project car sooner than intended
so any more help and advice would be great guys! sorry to be a pain on this god damn issue lol
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Feelin your pain mate,this thread keeps poping up, just wish you could get it sorted ,you say you got your leads in the right firing order,did you remove your leads from the dizzy cap at any time,which way does the rotor arm turn when cranking the engine,anti clockwise or clockwise? just a thought :smiley:
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Feelin your pain mate,this thread keeps poping up, just wish you could get it sorted ,you say you got your leads in the right firing order,did you remove your leads from the dizzy cap at any time,which way does the rotor arm turn when cranking the engine,anti clockwise or clockwise? just a thought :smiley:
alright mate?
everything got removed. rotar arm rotates clockwise when cranking so when everything was aligned the leads got put back in correct order. where the rotar arm was pointing when at tdc the node it was under is my no1 then 3, 4 and 2 so i know that that is all on correctly.
im going to try a new ignition coil as the spark is not great on my number 1 plug.
one thing that i did notice when removing the plugs to do the compression test was that my no1 plug was really badly coked up which shows a rich mixture yet the rest of the plugs had hardly any grime or anything on them. they were relatively clean :huh: :huh:
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Wouldnt a weak spark on number one plug point to a bad plug / lead or dizzy cap and not the coil?
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Coil will give a week spark all round, I would expect to see a reasonable idle though, usually misses under load if its the coil, then goes pop and doesn't work at all. But we all know how unreliable the coils are, well worth a go.
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sorry it has been a while guys. a little update for you all
i have bought a new coil, however its the wrong fitment, but i did plug it in just to see what happens. so i put a spare plug into no1 lead grounded on the block and cranked on the key and it is giving near enough the same kind of spark that the original coil is giving. so i think i can rule the coil out.
i retimed everything up and am absolutely positive that it is all timed up 100% as i managed to get the car running (still lumpy as fook and sounds like im popping popcorn in the cat) left her idling for 5 mins, then cranked by hand back to tdc and everything is in line. ill admit the aux sprocket which drives the dizzy did move out of line when getting the belt back on so i made sure the rotar arm was in the correct position by turning the dizzy housing.
so what im left with now is maybe changing the ht leads, becuase no1 plug was all coked up badly and all the other plugs were fine im thinking it could be this. i know it is not the plugs as i have tried 3 plugs in no1 cylinder. so im a little stumped now. and the only route i can go down is the ht leads
unless any of you top knotch dubbers know what else i could try???
cheers guys
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have your tried adjusting the dizzy? theres a bolt on there just undo it, but before that make sure everything is lined up, and then undo the dizzy bolt and take it out and adjust it very slowly, it should be pointing to the coil pack if its correctly lined up.
if everything is lined up take the distriputor cap off and see if its pointing to the coil pack, if it aint then adjust it till it is.
correct me if im wrong, as the mechanic i used to use did that to my cousines golf.
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cheers for reply mate.
yeah have done that numerous amounts of time now lol
im going to take my new coil pack back and get new leads! i hope to god its the leads!!!
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well admit defeat and take it to a mechanic to have a 2nd opinion! :undecided:
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i will never admit defeat lol
especially as a mechanic will charge an astronomical amount if he finds out as to why the car aint running right lol
i really dont trust em lol
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right,
i have just spoken to volkspares in sydenham, and the bloke said if the aux sprocket moves when refitting the belt you cant compensate at the dizzy so i need to go back and retime the aux to the crank, adjust back the dizzy and i should be sweet!
is this fact??? as i thought as long as you adjust dizzy so its timed it shouldnt make a difference???
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As far as i know the aux shaft only rotates the dizzy which inturn rotates the oil pump so it shouldnt make an differance if the dizzy is compensated and timed up right, but correct me if i`m wrong
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well i have altered the timing of the aux sprocket now so that it is in line with the crank and....................NO START
god damn what the fook is wrong with the car? i know mechanically the engine is sound so its got to be the timing or the ignition but i feel as though there are no more avenues for me to explore :angry: :angry:
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Have you tried fitting a new dizzy cap and plug leads
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How did you get on after i left Dan? Did my picture message help?
I've just this minute got in from fitting my oil pump! :laugh:
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Wow that took some doing!! I aint been back out here mate! I tried to turn over where we left the dizzy and nothing!! Me thinks your mate is going to be getting a tinkle soon! As am in dire need to av my baby back! Loool :laugh:
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Wow that took some doing!! I aint been back out here mate! I tried to turn over where we left the dizzy and nothing!! Me thinks your mate is going to be getting a tinkle soon! As am in dire need to av my baby back! Loool :laugh:
He's just tonight set-up a page on FB for his business...
http://www.facebook.com/pages/PW-Autos/207834049258546?sk=wall#!/pages/PW-Autos/207834049258546 (http://www.facebook.com/pages/PW-Autos/207834049258546?sk=wall#!/pages/PW-Autos/207834049258546)
Give him a call, he'll sort it! Tell him i sent you.... :cool:
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Ah seen!! Ill give the motor one final go tomorrow and see what I can sort
Other than that he will be gettin a bell tomorra and your name will be getting dropped lol :rolleyes:
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No worries pal! Good luck with it!
Let me know if you need a tow ;)
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another little update.
iv timed everything back up again as i bought nre bolts for the Vbelt pulley and had to fit them so decided to time up again. i was reading through the sh!te manual that is called haynes and it says on the tensioner to tension clockwise where i was going anticlockwise. (does this make a difference?) so i went clockwise.
iv been having to have the car jumped via a neighbours as the battery is flat as a pancake. and iv got her started, the car will not go above 200rpm and when you touch the throttle it cuts the car out. could this be because the battery does not have enough power in her?
also when running if i disconnect the jump leads the car cuts out also
i feel that im making slow progress but am i just going round in circles???
i want this over so i can lock this thread down lol :laugh: :laugh:
cheers all :smiley:
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im thinking of renaming this thread as the thread of death!!!!
im thinking of restripping the engine, grinding all the valves, give the head another good clean up, same with the pistons again also. might even sand down the intake, get rid of all the rough bits in there.
i have come to this conclusion as i have tried everything, iv even used rubjonnys guide in the mk2 maintenance section. when it does start it does run alot better, but now it wont idle and occasionally will backfire back up to the throttle body.
god damn am confused :laugh: :angry:
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sorry to bring this back up but she still aint running
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c145/Rmachines/Timing.jpg)
As long as you have done that .... And the dizzy is lined up (you can rotate to get it spot on if need be) Its correct, the ECU will advance and retard the timing using the coil pack to correct anything within the range of the dizzy.
iv just realised that the v belt and ribbed pulleys can actuially get pryed off of thje crank sprocket, so iv done this to try and do what the above diagram shows gthanks to Rmachines. however my crank sprocket does not have a notch on it for the aux to line upto.
so in order for me to ign timing and then timing itself what wouls you do first?
as im timing up using the timing marks on the fly
so do you get everything aligned and get it to the 6o btdc for the ign then take the belt off and move the crank round to the tdc mark and then re-belt up??
cheers guys, hopefully i can kill this topic off tomorrow! likelyhood aint good tho lol
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Just seen this somehow. :grin:
Only up the road and can lend you spares. What mark are you lining the rotary pully on? There was two marks and this confused me when I did my first belt.
I can try and find some time to pop up, can't be a lot wrong with it.
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ah cheers mate,
well my aux is exactly the same sprocket as the cam so i have the O T and a punched dot, the punched dot is what iv been told to go by
iv had the engine off for a second time and refurbed it all reseated the valves as none were bent on the original head which is always a bonus lol
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Right guys, i am very happy right now but also very annoyed
my car is running :grin: she is alive :grin:
but on another note, she is burning some serious oil, (i think) seriously chucking out loads if smoke through the exhaust.
been told it could be the valve stem oil seals
any other possibilities??
as i really dont wanna have to take the engine apart again :angry: :angry: :angry:
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How long have you let it run for,had a vr that did this after it had tons of cranking over a long duration through non starting /fault finding it was really smokey to start with,thought something major was up, cleared eventually and no sign of smoke at all now,exhaust must have had fuel/oil collected in there so let it run and drive it if you can.
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well i know that fuel was collecting in the cat when trying to turn over as you can hear it popping like a biatch, and this happened all the time it that it was not running propperly.
well now it is running propperly is when the smoke is happening. didnt even happen when it was not running propperly.
i have had the engine running for about 20mins while revving to try and clear it and nothing has changed
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Nice one one for gettin it runnin btw :smiley:wat was it in the end? tbh 20 mins isnt very long if its the similar to wat i had,it takes hours just keep an eye on the oil level and run it
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Nice one one for gettin it runnin btw :smiley:wat was it in the end? tbh 20 mins isnt very long if its the similar to wat i had,it takes hours just keep an eye on the oil level and run it
really??? im tellin ya it dont smell nice lol!
errr what was wrong??? might have been the timing, might have been a dodgy spark plug or might have been incorrectly fitted ht leads :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :embarassed: :embarassed: :embarassed:
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so if oil is being lost then it is defo eating oil from somewhere!!! ie stem seals?
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so if oil is being lost then it is defo eating oil from somewhere!!! ie stem seals?
:grin:possibl;e stem seals but because it aint runn for a good while they may have leaked a little every time you cranked it over ,so oil collected in the exhaust and never got burnt off?
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well shes running now, no smoke at first turn over but after a mo it started smoking again :cry:
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Is it like cheech and chongs van :grin: :grin: :grin:
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Youve had the valves out aint ya,did you not fit new stem seals or maybe you damaged one? :undecided:
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Is it like cheech and chongs van :grin: :grin: :grin:
hahahahaha :laugh:
Youve had the valves out aint ya,did you not fit new stem seals or maybe you damaged one? :undecided:
naa i didnt as they looked ok, iv just had a look at the oil when wiping the dipstick it kinda spreads out over the rag and is quite thin. and yes it is brand new oil.
im kind of hoping if it is stem seals then i could have it done in a matter of a couple of hours, im just a bit worried really as the smoking calms down when it idles for a little bit then the smoking gets worse then better etc etc :angry:
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You could have dumped petrol into your oil past the rings through bore washing as it wasnt starting, thinning it out and now making it very easy for the oil to pass the rings ,dip your oil does it smell of fuel? oil change time :huh:
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Right guys, i am very happy right now but also very annoyed
my car is running :grin: she is alive :grin:
but on another note, she is burning some serious oil, (i think) seriously chucking out loads if smoke through the exhaust.
been told it could be the valve stem oil seals
any other possibilities??
as i really don't wanna have to take the engine apart again :angry: :angry: :angry:
Sweet! :smiley: :cool:
Did Paul help or did you manage it yourself?
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You could have dumped petrol into your oil past the rings through bore washing as it wasnt starting, thinning it out and now making it very easy for the oil to pass the rings ,dip your oil does it smell of fuel? oil change time :huh:
yeah a little bit! GOD DAMIT f**kKIN TING loooool
well if oil is getting drained me thinks stem seals shud get replaced? as im now on a tight budget for money and time. im working nights so ill finish at 6am and i need my car operational by 2pm
grrrrrr
Right guys, i am very happy right now but also very annoyed
my car is running :grin: she is alive :grin:
but on another note, she is burning some serious oil, (i think) seriously chucking out loads if smoke through the exhaust.
been told it could be the valve stem oil seals
any other possibilities??
as i really don't wanna have to take the engine apart again :angry: :angry: :angry:
Sweet! :smiley: :cool:
Did Paul help or did you manage it yourself?
alright paul, i didnt speak to him as i didnt know when he was back from the dam so called another mobile mech and first thing he dun was look at leads, i felt like such a prick
but more work to do as oil is being burnt im sooooo unhappy right now lol
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right guess im going to be buyin
1)8xnew steam seals
2)5 lts of new oil
3)8xnew head bolts
maybe a new head gasket
grrrrrrrrr lol and am very short on time as i refuse to pay £40 return to brighton
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Nice one mate! :wink:
I reckon it could have the fuel in the oil mate which would cause smoke.
Our old 1.8 (similar engine) had a similar issue and so much fuel got dumped in the oil that the car would only run (albeit a bit lumpy) when the fuel pump was cut out! It was literally running on the oil fumes! :shocked:
So it MIGHT be worth changing the oil first.
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Ah cheers dude!
My old man said f**k strippin the engine, drain oil then new filter and oil and see what happens
Only prob is, if oil is passing the rings because the fuel is thinning it would this stop once new oil gets replaced in?? I hope so!! Fingers crossed for me ay?
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ah fook it stem seals getting replaced as they are probably the originals and have probably perished, spesh when i degreased the head
just finished work, been up 24hrs now time to crack on stripping the engine and then get me parts! i hope ecp have what i need.
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Good luck man!
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update of an update of many updates
changed stem seals and they were battered!!! loads of oil getting through, so the new ones are in!
the car dont seem to be smoking as much as yesterday but it is still smoking, this is something that i just dont get now :angry: :angry: :cry:
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give it a good blast the motorway, will just need blast to clear it out :D
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really?? as i need to go to brighton in about 30 mins, was thinking of not risking it but she does drive okish, what i mean by okish is it sounds a little tappety
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give it some beans and trust your repair work!
it'll be reet!!
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sweet, well 30mins has turned into how long lol
can you get tugged for a smokey car?? f**kkin filth i hate em!!! i hope it is just residual oil that is being burnt. i know the valves were caked in oil becuase of the knacked seals
fingers crossed me thinks
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trust me mate, my stem seals have been dead for a long time, you cant see my when ig go off and havent been pulled, so with you having fixed it even if they do say its just clearing, you'll be fine!
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sweet will do
stop being a pussy ay?? lol ]
+1
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:D
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well where to begin?
took your advice rob and it is still smoking, i couldnt notice it while driving and neither could my mate,
but if i change down a gear and punch it i do get a little then, and when having to stop at a junction roundabout etc.
it dont seem as bad when on tickover so im guessing use it for the next week religiously and try to burn all the oil out.
if not im guessing im going to have to maybe replace the head gasket as one thing i did notice was that 2 of the oil wholes in the gasket do not line up 100% true to the holes on the block or head
im hoping this aint the problem believe me lol :laugh:
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Maybe that or your piston rings?
Why not try some wynns stop oil? Might coat things up and stop it ?
Maybe the stem seals just need coating?
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stop oil ay?? ill av a butchers and give it a go
soon i reckon itll be stripping the engine as i am a little worried about the gasket but well see