GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: Shady Pioneer on 30 April 2011, 21:50
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Is it possible? I've found a guide online that makes it easy (so it says) to change them without taking everything off, and as I don't believe it to be my ignition switch which is the problem, I imagine it's the barrel as it is loose. It even keeps the engine running when the key is out! :shocked:
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You need to drill a hole in the metal barrel housing to release the barrel.. This is from a Seat Ibiza but its the same on the mk3 Golf..
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/leegt5/General%20Things/DSC00223.jpg)
If you able to remove the key and it still runs I'd say its more likely the switch rather than the barrel.
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Cheers pal. Good seeing a picture of it for reference (guide only described it) but the main thing is will I have a problem with using the barrel from the 1994 Golf in the 1996 Golf? Something to do with coded keys?
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I dont think you will have a problem using the different barrels as they are only mechanical.
The coded part clips round the metal housing so as long as you use the corresponding old key chip in the new key you shouldn't have a problem. See the black plastic part around the barrel. Thats the coded part to the key. Again picture from a Seat Ibiza but is the same in the mk3 Golf.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/leegt5/General%20Things/column.jpg)
To drill that hole to release the barrel you won't be able to drill it with the barrel housing still in the car.
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The anni key will be coded, not sure if you can swap your chip into the 94 key.
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I don't think the old key for the valver was coded? Bit of a pain that it can't be done with it still on the car, is it because it's an awkward angle?
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I don't think the old key for the valver was coded? Bit of a pain that it can't be done with it still on the car, is it because it's an awkward angle?
Yes angle etc, no way you will drill out whilst it is still on the car.
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If the 94 key isn't coded then you will need a coded key and barrel.
As wayne says its not possible to drill the release hole with it in the car...
You sure its the barrel and not the switch? I think you can get the switch out with the column still in the car though its been a while since I did the Ibiza new barrel housing.
I believe the easiest way to get the barrel or switch off the car is to remove the column from the car which is alot easier than it sounds.
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If the 94 key isn't coded then you will need a coded key and barrel.
As wayne says its not possible to drill the release hole with it in the car...
You sure its the barrel and not the switch? I think you can get the switch out with the column still in the car though its been a while since I did the Ibiza new barrel housing.
I believe the easiest way to get the barrel or switch off the car is to remove the column from the car which is alot easier than it sounds.
When I go to turn on the engine, I have to lift up the key slightly to start the engine. I've read DIYs for replacing the switch and it seems a very complicated procedure, mainly using a 2 grip puller (which I don't have) and needed a very small phillips screwdriver (jewellers kit).
If you know an easier way without having to use a 2 grip puller please share. :grin:
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I would say it was the switch mate the plastic wears away and the barrel doesn't turn it like it should.
The way I done it was disconnect all the wires from the column then undo the joint under the pedals. Then get a cold chisel and put it between the joint and hit it. This loosens the column and allows you to pull the wheel and column out.
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You reckon? It would save a lot of hassle if it was just the switch, so may try getting them swapped over tomorrow then. Will take my old one off the Valver and replace the Anni's one (if I can). What joint under the pedals are you referring to may I ask?
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Yeah the puller method is to remove the splined collar compressing the spring above the upper column bearing inside the barrel housing as in the top picture.
Its a fookin nightmare as I did it and you will more than likely destroy the splined collar trying to chisel it off as I couldn't get a puller to pull it off so needed to replace the splined collar when putting things back together.
Best way I would say to do it is see below to lift out column.
Remove upper steering column stroud (2 screws) and unplug all electrical adaptors around column and disconnect the steering wheel airbag connector and do not change its position in relation to the steering wheel.
Remove shear bolt off casing
Remove plastic cover above pedals.
Unbolt lower steering column from UJ (1 Bolt and nut and needs to be completely removed the bolt from column.
Now with some gentle tapping of the underside of the steering wheel the steering column should lift completely out with indicator arms still attached. You should now be able to access the ignition switch to remove it and change for a new one.
Putting back is as reverse, lower column back down tube and attach to UJ in correct position as the bolt will only go back through in one position as the lower column has a d shape cut in it.....
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Thanks Lee, that's basically the same as what I found here:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2532481
Going to give it a go on the Valver, if I can do it then I'll do the Anni, if not, then...will have to try again at a later date. :grin:
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If you look under the clutch pedal theres a plastic cover, under this is a joint for the steering disconnect the bolt on the column side.
looks like this and the arrow points to where you need to put the chisel in to loosen it then the column will pull out.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b35/neil1780/uj.jpg)
theres no need to mark anything for reasembly as it will only go in one way, theres a rescess on the column for the bolt in the joint youll see what i mean and you dont need to take the steering wheel off.
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Now with some gentle tapping of the underside of the steering wheel
this didnt work for me mate hense the chisel but it might for you every cars different.
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Seems to be the easier option, basically the same as what was said in the linked thread by Lee, and the VW Vortex one I found. I'll give this ago tomorrow. Would be nice to get the ignition area sorted. :cool:
Thanks for the help lads, will report back with whatever happens.
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If you look under the clutch pedal theres a plastic cover, under this is a joint for the steering disconnect the bolt on the column side.
looks like this and the arrow points to where you need to put the chisel in to loosen it then the column will pull out.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b35/neil1780/uj.jpg)
theres no need to mark anything for reasembly as it will only go in one way, theres a rescess on the column for the bolt in the joint youll see what i mean and you dont need to take the steering wheel off.
Or a flat balde screwdriver will do the same trick, on mine it did not need anything after I removed the bolt.
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I also ued that thread on vortex,was such an easy way to do it ,took the colunm compleatly out ,took it in the house ,changed the switch sittin on me sofa inbetween havin me dinner ,misses givin me strange looks lol,was done in no time :smiley:
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Taken this from my Dub Rides thread, hopefully it'll help someone that has a similar issue. :afro:
So today I changed the ignition switch, all by myself. :grin:
After input from another thread by members saying it could be a switch issue, I took it upon myself to try and correct the problem. Said problem was that when turning the key I had to lift it up slightly to get the engine to start. I had taken the ignition switch from my old valver when that was being broken so I used this as a replacement.
(http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt25/Shady_Pioneer/b3248938.jpg)
Here is the U-Joint, known for being a complete b!tch to get the nut and bolt to part from the main joint. This is what took up most of my time and it wasn't comfortable lying on my back trying to do so either:
(http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt25/Shady_Pioneer/6ea05eed.jpg)
(http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt25/Shady_Pioneer/db309580.jpg)
Once this bolt was out, there is a allen bolt holding the column in place that's directly to the left of the ignition barrel location (other side of the steering wheel). I undid this and thankfully the steering rack just came straight out without much problem. DIYs I've read have suggested it might not always be that easy, sometimes involved having to chisel or knock the U-Joint with a flat-headed screwdriver, but this wasn't necessary in my case. Also note before pulling out the rack you need to disconnect all wires leading to the steering wheel.
(http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt25/Shady_Pioneer/95443c5b.jpg)
I'm not 100% sure what this bit if but it was around my ignition barrel:
(http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt25/Shady_Pioneer/a174225d.jpg)
Steering rack out with everything still attached:
(http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt25/Shady_Pioneer/9cc03d64.jpg)
Old switch to the left, valver's one to the right. You can tell the different and why I had an issue:
(http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt25/Shady_Pioneer/049c26c7.jpg)
The infamous small screw that holds the switch in, quite fiddly to get to but I found a cheap small Halfrauds screwdriver did the trick, other suggest a jeweler's screwdriver as they are very thin:
(http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt25/Shady_Pioneer/f3352a27.jpg)
All I had to do was put it back together. The tricky part was the U-Joint and putting the steering rack back in, I found the part that connects to the U-Joint (in the spring area) was a pain to locate the right position, but I got there in the end, put the bolt back through and made sure everything was back the way it was meant to be. Took me about an hour.
So my problem regarding the switch is fine, but my barrel needs replacing at some point as the engine will still run if the key is taken out. :rolleyes:
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Well done mate glad it's sorted :afro:
That ring is the immobiliser ring that detects the key.
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Thanks Neil. :) It was easier than I thought it would be.
With regards to the ring, as I've only one key, what would be the process of get a spare key done as I've only one at the moment.
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Should be a sticker in your service book with a code on it,just go to vw and quote this :smiley:
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I will have look. Thanks screech.
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Should be a sticker in your service book with a code on it,just go to vw and quote this :smiley:
Quoted me £120 :shocked: go to one of those key cutting chains should cost about £35 :wink:
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Should be a sticker in your service book with a code on it,just go to vw and quote this :smiley:
Quoted me £120 :shocked: go to one of those key cutting chains should cost about £35 :wink:
Just thinking the same, a key cutting place will be a lot cheaper. :smiley:
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Should be a sticker in your service book with a code on it,just go to vw and quote this :smiley:
Quoted me £120 :shocked: go to one of those key cutting chains should cost about £35 :wink:
Just thinking the same, a key cutting place will be a lot cheaper. :smiley:
What about the chip in the key for the imobliser?
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Should be a sticker in your service book with a code on it,just go to vw and quote this :smiley:
Quoted me £120 :shocked: go to one of those key cutting chains should cost about £35 :wink:
Just thinking the same, a key cutting place will be a lot cheaper. :smiley:
What about the chip in the key for the imobliser?
They can code them I believe.
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They most certainly can. Just need your old key to cut and code a spare
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I never knew that , cool :smiley:
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Glad you got it sorted !!