GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Neo Badness on 09 April 2011, 22:12
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Right I've upgraded the brakes on my mk2 16v to 280mm ones, thought I'd be a wise guy and upgrade to DOT5.1 fluid when I renewed all the brake lines/ master cylinder as I am hoping to do the odd track day.
Anyway, I bled the system with an assistant, no air bubbles. Loosened the spring underneath and pushed the arm up, retightened after bleeding. Now the brakes work but I get a sort of weezey noise when I depress the pedal and there is alot more travel before they bite.
It failed MOT due to "spongy brake pedal".
Is this because I have DOT 5.1 Fluid? Should I go back and redo it with DOT4?
I've put at least 1ltr through and am getting firm pedal intially then seems to go soft after sitting, yet no sign of leakage or reducution in fluid.
Anyone help please?
it's doing my nut in and retest is on Monday :undecided:
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Loosened what spring, the pedal or the sense valve under the car?
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Under car one, that stops rears locking up before the fronts .
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You shouldn't push the arm anywhere when bleeding the brakes. No need to touch it at all.
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I'm doing mine soon, got some 4 dot waiting, remember reading something about a bias valve and pinching it.
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surely you need to move the spring so the bias valve opens up, otherwise it restricts the flow of brake fluid going to the rear brakes!
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Why, when all you are looking for is fresh, air-free fluid?
The valve acts like a load sense valve, it measures the amount of weight in the back and applies the force to the rear brakes accordingly. If your car is lowered you will need to adjust it to suit the new height of the beam to arm, but other than that you don't need to mess with it.
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Sounds like air to me :rolleyes:
Devil has uses for idle fingers :evil:
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ok, I wont touch it then.
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Was told by an experienced local dubber to open the valve. :rolleyes:
This is the first time I've "done" brakes and it's doing my head in.
Squishy pedal is air in the system and nothing to do with DOT5.1?
Considering seeing if I can borrow a power bleeder but time is so against me.
Gotta lay a bathroom floor too :cry:
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if the valve has air in it you have to clamp it open sometimes else it'll never bleed through properly. if it's full of fluid and all your doing is pumping fluid through it there is no need.
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just a thought when you were bleeding the barkes did you keep pushing the brake pedal right down into the carpet ?
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Was speaking to a mechanic mate of 15years about this the other day. He said only to adjust them when you lower the car, but never for bleeding.. He's never had problems on his mk2, and said he uses a home-made 1 man kit (non pressurised), on all cars at work, never touches the bias valve and never had a problem.. However I can imagine in some situations it may benefit from being clamped if your having a complete mare bleeding up the rears??
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Yes all it takes is a caliper to be 90% full when pumping fluid which is why I tend to turn them up side down when bleeding to make sure they are full of fluid and not air.
The simplest method is to get a pint glass top up resivoir then long plastic tube over nipple and pump the brakes four times until the resivor needs topping up.
Never bleed it bellow the line so no air gets in.
Its a longer method of bleeding, but two man jobbie can be just a pain in the arse, as he never pumps and lets go at the right times, hence a pint glass and longer tube so only fliud goes back up the nipple and no need to do up the valve nipple. :wink:
If you are really having problems I would raise the passenger wheel arch higher than the other four wheels then do the same thing bleed in order, but raise the back up first due to the gravity helping to get more forced fluid in the back!
I've never had to muk about with bias valves unless it was retro fitting different calipers on the back and needed adjusting.
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Thanks for all the replies.
Due to being pushed for time today, was putting in a bathroom floor, plus other odds and ends. I ended up biting the bullet and taking it to local garage and getting them to pressure bleed the system(£35.00 :shocked:). The guy ended up doing it twice as couldn't get a decent pedal. It's still not fabulous but an awful lot better than it was. Made me feel a bit better that the guy struggled too, as daft as that sounds. Not just me then.
I was using a bleed tube/ resevoir and pumping it until no bubbles came out with the all 4 wheels off and on axles stands so it was same level as it would be if the wheels were on.
In for retest tomorrow so if it still fails on spongy pedal I'll take it straight back to the garage for a refund...
Then set fire to the car... :evil:
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Sorry dude, been too busy on my own car to go through the forum and only just seen your thread.. next time, invest in one of these.
(http://www.minigarage.nl/shop/images/Easy%20bleed.jpg)
It uses pressure from a spare wheel and worked wonders on my brakes! :cool:
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Sorry dude, been too busy on my own car to go through the forum and only just seen your thread.. next time, invest on one of these.
(http://www.minigarage.nl/shop/images/Easy%20bleed.jpg)
It uses pressure from a spare wheel and worked wonders on my brakes! :cool:
Cheer bud, I might do if I ever go near the brakes again... Was looking at making my own pressure bleeder but didn't have time. Hope you got the belt sorted and the tappets etc :smiley:
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eezi bleed kit :cool:
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I've got one, they are very good, only cost £15 on ebay.
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the only difference between dot.4 & dot.5 is dot 5 has a higher boiling point
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Where do you measure to find the difference in 20mm and 22mm master cylinders?
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Take it off and measure the bore.
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Sorry dude, been too busy on my own car to go through the forum and only just seen your thread.. next time, invest on one of these.
(http://www.minigarage.nl/shop/images/Easy%20bleed.jpg)
It uses pressure from a spare wheel and worked wonders on my brakes! :cool:
Wouldn't bother with one of those, I bought a Sealey Power Bleeder and never looked back. Bleeding the brakes is now so easy I do it for fun.
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=109708&Referrer=froogle
(http://www.tooled-up.com/Artwork/ProdZoom/SEAVS820.jpg)
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Take it off and measure the bore.
Cool that's what I needed, thanks. But that will mean bleeding the brakes again :rolleyes:
Wouldn't bother with one of those, I bought a Sealey Power Bleeder and never looked back. Bleeding the brakes is now so easy I do it for fun.
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=109708&Referrer=froogle
(http://www.tooled-up.com/Artwork/ProdZoom/SEAVS820.jpg)
That's not a bad shout tbh, may have to go halfs on it but cheers
its stamped on the master cylinder somewhere
Grubbing about in the engine bay, my favourite. There are a finite number of places for it to stamped so I'll check when it comes back. Got a reasonably decent pedal feel but I'm just wondering if when ordering the new master cylinder they've sent me the wrong one and I never checked.
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its stamped on the master cylinder somewherte
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Hi,
You definitely need to clamp the brake bias compensator valve to bleed the rear brakes if the wheels are off the ground.
You can get away with it if you bleed on a flat bed or ramps (of it’s on the ground not raised up at all) but with no-one in the back of the car while you’re doing it, the valve wont be open 100% so the fluid will very slowly trickle out (depending on how well the valve is tuned for the height of the car).
I’ve been to several garages to have my brakes bled over time, and you’d be surprised at how many of them forget to open the rear bias vale before doing the back, stand there scratching their heads and eventually tell me the rear brakes are knackered!
I use a pair of mole grips to clamp the lowest parts of the valve together – this opens the rears brakes to 100% and allows a good flow for bleeding. Don’t forget to take them off though before going for a test drive or your rear will lock up!!!
As for the easy bleed kit, or the better Sealey one, I believe you still need to have someone pump the brake peddle, press the peddle slowly down and do up the bleed nipple before (slowly) raising your foot off the peddle (after the nipple is done up). Not exactly sure why but this is how to get rid of that gap in the peddle before the brakes kick in.
Hope this helps
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(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr286/neobadness/DSC00405.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr286/neobadness/DSC00406-1.jpg)
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Wheels are off the ground there - did the garage clamp up the valve?
By the way, mine has the 'wheez' sound when the peddle is depressed too! I don't think you get this when they brakes are bled correctly and there's no play/sponge in the peddle. No idea why it does it but it sounds like it comes from the bias compensator value.
I still have a problem where my brakes need re-bleeding about once a month. I'm slowly replacing parts bit by bit to try and get to the bottom of it - nightmare.
Let us know how you get on!
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Failed again on brakes :evil:
No the garage did not touch the bias valve when bleeding the brakes. They said it was only necessary to adjust for the ride height.
Reckon I'd be entitled to a refund if they bled the brakes and it's failed it's MOT a day later?
When I get the car back I'm going to look at this master cylinder that I got from Eurocarparts, see if that is the issue as it was fine with the old one.
Anyone got a spare mastercylinder for a mk2 16v?
I think I have one off the mk3 16v but don't think it'd fit?
Also I bought a 23mm master cylinder many many moons ago, would that fit the original mk2 16v 9" servo?
This is doing my box right in, and costing me a fortune...
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You do not have to 'adjust' the bias valve to bleed the brakes but when it's off the ground it closes completely (as though there's less than no-one sitting in the back), so you can't bleed the rear.
You need to TELL THEM that to bleed the system correctly, they either need to do it on a flat bed (prefferably with people sitting in the back of the car while they do it) or they MUST temporarily clamp the valve open while it's off the ground.
I garauntee that nothing came out of the rear calipers when they bled the rear without clamping the comp valve.
You don't need another Master Cylinder. Don't do anything to your brakes until you've watched them do this and re-bled your system, i'd put money on it sorting your problem mate.
This is basic stuff, but most garages miss it.
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There was defo stuff coming out the rear calipers. It dribbled all over my alloy wheels and he had to clean them off.
However he did use DOT3 which I don't think is suitable for the mk2, think the minimum is DOT4? I will double check this.
Did quizz him on this but he said that the most they could use was DOT3? Sounds like balls to me tbh.
Have checked the servo and pressing the pedal before starting the car it goes down once the engine starts, which indicates that the servo is still working. My workinbg hypothisis is that I have a dodgy caliper, my suspicion is offside front. Going to get a loan of a proper flexi clamp and test them all until I find the offending one. I'm also going to go back to the garage and ask for a refund. Failing that I'm also going to investigate the rear calipers piston being pushed back too far.
Plenty to do tomorrow then...
I'll see how it goes and update.
Cheers
ALi
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Glad this thread exists.. This probably explains my problem with the brakes on my mk3! Bled them about 3 times now and the pedal is still really spongey!
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Sealey power bleed on its way to me as i hate bleeding brakes :grin:
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Glad this thread exists.. This probably explains my problem with the brakes on my mk3! Bled them about 3 times now and the pedal is still really spongey!
I'm picking up my flexi clamp tomorrow. Hopefully that will shed some light on the situation. As I said I'll update the thread with any resolution/findings.
Sealey power bleed on its way to me as i hate bleeding brakes :grin:
Preaching to the choir mate :smiley:
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Sealey power bleed on its way to me as i hate bleeding brakes :grin:
I've never managed to get a satisfactory pedal with various easy bleed kits, one operation, two man, just never happy with the result. I bought the Power Bleeder from a local tool shop and never looked back. You can do ABS equiped cars too. It takes longer now to get the car up in the air and the wheels off than it does bleeding the brakes.
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Can you do brakes with wheels on then? If there's room to get your hands in ?
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you sure can.
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May have a lead on why the brakes are crap following investigation today, more on that later.
Double checked and my GTi should have minimum DOT4 in it and garage will flush the system and put in DOT 4.
Not got as much done as I hoped but heading in the right direction.
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The DOT rating of the brake fluid will only make a difference when the brakes heat up, the rating have different boiling points, so from cold they should all feel exactly the same.
Let us know how you get on!
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Was back in a Kwik Fit yesterday, I know, I know. I was in a pinch and they were the only place open.
They have tried bleeding the system some more without too much success. The guy said he let his MOT tester try it and said that he would pass it.
However, he then went on to say that he thought the master cylinder was faulty ???
They were aparently bleeding it from said master cylinder and could only get fluid from one channel as there are two nipples there.
Prob's something simple but I'm starting to loose the will with it as I'm down £80 and no MOT :rolleyes:
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Can you some how take it off and pressure test the M/C itself to see if all channels are pissing out fluid?
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Can you some how take it off and pressure test the M/C itself to see if all channels are pissing out fluid?
I dunno about a test that I run off the car but I think a mate may have a spare servo, master cylinder etc that he stripped off his before going widetrack. So I will ask him nicely and see where that leads me.
Basically, with the engine running I can press the pedal pretty much to the floor, so something is not right.
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It sounds like a m/cylinder to me. If air is getting in elsewhere, oil would be coming out (for the air to get in).. If your saying there is no sign of a leak, from m/cyl all the way to bleed nipples (ie the whole system), then I'd say its the m/cyl drawing air in slightly.it has rubber seals inside that perish.. Also two rubber seals where the reservoir bottle presses in to feed it can fail as well.. That 80quid would have paid for a new 1 as well I'd imagine!!
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I had this on mine the problem was the nipples on the rear calipers are halfway down and air gets stuck above them take the caliper off and clamp the piston and hold the nipple so its the highest point and try again i got loads of air out
Dave
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The fact that the brand new master cylinder I bought from Eurocarparts has 4 holes for brakelines as apposed to 2 like the original indicates that it's the wrong one. I was advised just to block off two of them with bleed nipples. This would appear to be, in hindsight, incorrect.
My mate Boab, who has been nipping my head (in a good way) to get the car MOT'd and pulled a replacement OEM mastercylinder from his Aladdins cave of mk2 bits. Not too sure if it'll solve the problem or not but gotta be worth a punt, and I'm a dab hand at bleeding brakes now :smiley:
Does have a 20 stamped on it so will need to double check it fits, if it's a 20mm one and I have a 16v that needs 22mm, never simple is it?
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So to bleed my brakes with car on the floor, would I jack it up, put the hose on the nipple then lower then undo nipple when needed ? I'm doing this either today or tomorrow, as car should be driveable this weekend hopefully.
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Mine has 4 holes and worked a treat when last fitted
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So to bleed my brakes with car on the floor, would I jack it up, put the hose on the nipple then lower then undo nipple when needed ? I'm doing this either today or tomorrow, as car should be driveable this weekend hopefully.
Just squeeze your hand in if you can with wheel on. Easier on the back than the fronts. Failing that 4 axle stands and take all the wheels off and go round like that. it's my preferred method, more hassle but easier if you know what I mean?
Mine has 4 holes and worked a treat when last fitted
Did it make a weird wheezing sound? Can you get fluid from all 4 nipple holes? How did you have the pipes setup?
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Nope no wheezing mate.. Duno never checked to see if fluid would come out.. I'm guessing they were routed as started I've removed them now as going to re route in the car :huh:
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My master cylinder from GSF that I bought a few months ago has 4 wholes too. It came with two blanking screws, which is normal. Nothing to worry about there.
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Nope no wheezing mate.. Duno never checked to see if fluid would come out.. I'm guessing they were routed as started I've removed them now as going to re route in the car :huh:
Yeah good thinking re routing inside the car. My mate has done this too on his Mk2 VR and another mate does it on all his competition cars. Remember to put a union in before the bit that goes into the car. Will make life easier if/when you have to replace them.
My master cylinder from GSF that I bought a few months ago has 4 wholes too. It came with two blanking screws, which is normal. Nothing to worry about there.
I never got blanking screws :undecided: had to use spare bleed nipples to blank it off. Seems odd though that OEM has 2 and the replacement one has 4. Is that something to do with LHD and RHD? Who knows. Anyway I swapped it out and haven't had a chance to bleed it yet as I'm knackered.
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Right, I'm stumped, my mate Alex is stumped. Changed the mastercylinder out for a known good one.
Bled the system and the brakes work, sort of. Theres a lot of pedal travel and after a bit of abuse the pedal will go to the floor when pushed hard.
It should stay above the floor about an inch shouldn't not sink all the way to the floor?
Changed the front flexi's + hardlines back to the M/c with like for like, rear is as it was. Get a strange wheezing sound when pumping the brakes at standstill. Was working fine when parked up in July. :undecided: Don't think it's the servo as that's the only thing that hasn't been changed and that would make the brake pedal really hard to push down?
Setup is as follows.
280mm calipers/ discs
standard 16v rear discs/ calipers
22mm master cylinder
9in servo(?) standard 16v one
Only other thing I think I might try is taking off the rear calipers and pushing the pistons back in. Failing that I will have to admit defeat and take it to a garage, who will probably charge me a small fortune, that I don't have :cry:
Any help gratefully recieved.
ALi
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Did you try clamping both rear flexible brake hoses to see if the pedal was any better?
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Did you try clamping both rear flexible brake hoses to see if the pedal was any better?
Nope, I didn't. I do have a clamp though. Forgot to try that. Good info will give it a whirl. Did try it on the front ones but didn't make much difference that I could tell.
If it does make the brake pedal better does that mean I need to wind the piston back or copper grease them up?
This is all new to me and it's turned into nightmare...
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Was the master cylinder you got from gsf right in the end, just tried bleeding my brakes, left it for 30 mins came back and the bottle was empty :angry: Dripping from where the fuel lines go, so obviously the master cylinder. Or the seals that hold the reservoir in place :undecided:
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Was the master cylinder you got from gsf right in the end, just tried bleeding my brakes, left it for 30 mins came back and the bottle was empty :angry: Dripping from where the fuel lines go, so obviously the master cylinder. Or the seals that hold the reservoir in place :undecided:
I hate bleeding brakes, such a pita. Have swapped M/c's but problem is still persisting, albeit not as bad as it was. So I dunno man. Going to have a fiddle with clamping off the calipers and seeing if that does owt. Then have another pop at bleeding the brakes/ fiddle with the bias valve underneath. It's rubbish too as the weather is getting better and everyone is out in their car and mine is still broken :cry:
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Lol yer I hate it too, burns and doesnt taste nice either :grin: Took my m/c off and where the black reducer seals go into the m/c, underneath has all rusted so not a flat surface and think it's pissing out of there. How much fluid you used, I just wasted a 1l bottle :angry: http://www.vwh2o.com/vw.cfm?act=shop.product&pID=34848514&lang=EN&country=GB thats the one I'm buying plus got to buy the blank screws separately. £12 for two screws!!! Don't think so.
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Lol yer I hate it too, burns and doesnt taste nice either :grin: Took my m/c off and where the black reducer seals go into the m/c, underneath has all rusted so not a flat surface and think it's pissing out of there. How much fluid you used, I just wasted a 1l bottle :angry: http://www.vwh2o.com/vw.cfm?act=shop.product&pID=34848514&lang=EN&country=GB thats the one I'm buying plus got to buy the blank screws separately. £12 for two screws!!! Don't think so.
That looks like the one I got but was from Euro carparts. Paid 12 to get it delivered in a Saturday morning too as I was booked in for track time that afternoon. How naive I was :cry: Mine I took off was proper fooked just crumbled round where there reservoir plugged in and leaked like a very leaky thing.
Need to sort this Golf and get it out and about peeing me right off. It's not even fun tinkering with it anymore I just want it done. Sigh
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MAybe its not the MAster cylinder ?? have you pressure tested it ??
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MAybe its not the MAster cylinder ?? have you pressure tested it ??
Don't think it is the master cylinder as symptoms persist even though I've swapped them over.
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What number has yours got on it, mine says 20 but my old one says 22.
Yer looked up and it is 22mm I need :angry:
But just looked and on the box it says width length height etc and says 22.5mm but on the body says 20. Can I measure it somehow.
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What number has yours got on it, mine says 20 but my old one says 22.
Yer looked up and it is 22mm I need :angry:
But just looked and on the box it says width length height etc and says 22.5mm but on the body says 20. Can I measure it somehow.
Yes the bit that goes into the servo, measure the diameter, should be 22mm. Both of the ones I've got said 20 on the outside but were 22mm when measured with engineers calipers, think that might be the German sense of humor? Or perhaps they had a load of 8v master cylinder castings and put 16v guts in them?
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lol God knows, I took it back and paid bit more for a 22mm one, made of aluminium so more weight loss there!
Ain't got fluid coming out the rear passenger now lol Knowing my luck that'll be a new bias valve or something!
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MAybe its not the MAster cylinder ?? have you pressure tested it ??
+1 if the impossible is left, then that is what is left, unless the pinion is not connected properly at the pedal end to servo?
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MAybe its not the MAster cylinder ?? have you pressure tested it ??
+1 if the impossible is left, then that is what is left, unless the pinion is not connected properly at the pedal end to servo?
How does pinion connect to the master cylinder. I was under the impression that the Master cylinder, after undoing the bolts, just slides into the servo?
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It does but the pedal box attaches through a pinion via the the two two rods one from the pedal to the servo, but if I remember rightly you have had a solid pedal already that had gone soft so restrospectively it should be ok? Just check that pinion is still connected to the rod on the servo.
But if there is a small rip in the servo it could in theory loose pressure in the diaphram on the servo side? I've got two of my larger M/C capped it off with bolts instead of bleed nipples all I did was lock tighted them so they have complete seal and no problems with a 16v Servo combo.
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Hmmmn, I dunno. I will check the pinion on the rod on the servo. More head in the footwell antics.
I'm working on the principle that if the servo not working/ tear in diaphragm would cause heavy/ stiff pedal due to lack of assistance and the car to run like a bag of poo due it drawing extra air through the leak to the manifold. I think either I have a weepy leak, not a proper leak. A mullered load sensing valve or simply there is somehow still air it the system.
Going to have a proper go at it this long weekend. Get this thing sorted once and for all.
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Have you just screwed in your bleed nipples without any sealant? Have you got your old M/C, I took the blanking bolts from there, and made a washer with ptfe tap and they seem fine. Maybe it could weeping out of the there? Or have you checked this?
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Have you just screwed in your bleed nipples without any sealant? Have you got your old M/C, I took the blanking bolts from there, and made a washer with ptfe tap and they seem fine. Maybe it could weeping out of the there? Or have you checked this?
None of the unions I took apart had ptfe tape on them so i didn't use it when reassembling. Dind't think that would be suitable in this application. Haven't had time to work on the car this week. PITA.
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Bleed nipples *shouldn't* need any sealant, they seal against the cone on the end of the nipple.
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Ohright, the blanking screws I took off had old washers around them so I just made new ones with ptfe.
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Ohright, the blanking screws I took off had old washers around them so I just made new ones with ptfe.
Did think about it but wasn't sure how ptfe would react to brake fluid.
Does anyone know for sure which way is "off" for the load sensing valve on the underside of the car? I want to make sure mine isn't goosed.
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Got mine free'd up yesterday and all callipers bled :D The bottom bit should be hard against the rubber bit on the body, basically push the bottom of the lever towards the valve to fully open it, my spring fell of so just stayed there, but you may have to clamp it off. If unsure Ill take some pics, cars still on stands atm
Just looked at mine then and it moves with my fingers now, so push the bottom towards the front of the car- thats open :smiley:
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Bottom of the lever towards the front of the car is open. Gotcha. :smiley:
I'll prob's do this at the weekend. I forsee swearing, spanner throwing and general tantrums.
My mate, and long time dubber, is adamant that I've knobbed up bleeding the brakes :grin: But he has a spare brake bias valve too if I need it :cool:
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lol. Probably something simple, it'll make sense when you got the rear passenger side jacked up pretty high, can get ya head under and can see what I mean, try spray some wd40 on it before trying to free it, i just whacked mine with a hammer after a while lol can move it with my fingers now!
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lol. Probably something simple, it'll make sense when you got the rear passenger side jacked up pretty high, can get ya head under and can see what I mean, try spray some wd40 on it before trying to free it, i just whacked mine with a hammer after a while lol can move it with my fingers now!
Yeah it moves freely I just wasn't sure which way was open. It will be something simple I hope, just running out things to replace or eliminate.
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Right I reckon this is a weird noise for brakes to make. Any suggestions? :sad:
Engine is running.
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr286/neobadness/Project%20Rotbox/th_MOV00407.jpg) (http://s492.photobucket.com/albums/rr286/neobadness/Project%20Rotbox/?action=view¤t=MOV00407.mp4)
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hmm ive noticed this noise when bleeding my old mk2's but not as loud.
Is the servo vacume hose in good shape? no air leaks?
Did you mess with the servo at all?
Leaking fluid anywhere?
tbh mk2 brakes are a b!tch to bleed at times. When I upgraded to 280 with the 8v master cylinder it was a long and pointless job!
You just have to keep bleeding the system till the pedal is firm.
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Checked the vacuum hoses the other day, they seem to be in good order. It was also pointed out that if there was a leak then pedal would be harder and the car would be running rough as it'd be drawing extra air through the servo. It's not doing that.
I do have 280mm brakes but with a 16v 22mm M/c. Did buy, I think, and S2 23mm M/c. But can I find it? Can I f**k... Anyway, I reckon it'll just be a case of bleeding it, a lot. :sad:
Meant to add bleeding brakes with the ignition off or on? I've been doing it with the ignition on but the engine off. Could this be part of the problem? Going to try it with the ignition off see if that improves matters.
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shouldnt matter. I bled mine with the enging running. Takes a while
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Yer you'd have a hard pedal if you had a vac leak. Wouldn't of thought ignition would matter, no electrics to the braking system is there? Part from the brake fluid level indicator.
I hope I don't this issue when I test mine :grin: I've just bled them and left atm :undecided:
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I had this on mine the problem was the nipples on the rear calipers are halfway down and air gets stuck above them take the caliper off and clamp the piston and hold the nipple so its the highest point and try again i got loads of air out
Dave
Did you try this?
Dave
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Right bled the brakes today with the help of Mr B.
Checked unions and for leaks and found none.
Does seem I have sodastream fitted somewhere in the car as there aren't normal bubbles but looks like the brake fluid is carbonated?
That normal? Superfine bubbles in it that could only be seen when strong sunlight was directly on the bleed tube.
Think there must be something letting in a tiny amount of air somewhere?
Not too sure how I progress from here. :undecided:
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Have you pressure-tested the system, with an air-hose to the reservoir?
Have you opened each line at a time and walked away and left it for 1/2 hour?
Swapped the master cylinder for a known-good one?
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I left my system pressured at 20psi for about 40 mins, came home and all my fluid from my eezi bleed bottle had gone!!
Maybe put a line on where the fluid is then come back later to see if it's dropped, even if it's a few mm then you know there's a problem.
Looks like I may need to rebleed my rear brakes again, my pedal doesn't firm up. :angry:
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Have you pressure-tested the system, with an air-hose to the reservoir? It has been pressure bled by Kwik Fit, that may mean nothing though.
Have you opened each line at a time and walked away and left it for 1/2 hour? You mean take the bleed nipples out? No.
Swapped the master cylinder for a known-good one? Yes I have
Not sure how you pressurise the brake system without specialist equipment?
There is defo air in the system just need to figure out from where and how to get rid of it.
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Ok so found a slightly moist T section which I am going to replace.
I shouldn't need to but does anyone know if PTfe tape is ok with brake fluid?
There seems to be a tiny little air leak some where. Now I have the fabby job of trying to locate said leak. :rolleyes:
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Not sure how you pressurise the brake system without specialist equipment?
EZI-Bleed kit is cheap and uses the spare wheel to pressurise the system. Worth a shot to help find your issue.
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Not sure how you pressurise the brake system without specialist equipment?
EZI-Bleed kit is cheap and uses the spare wheel to pressurise the system. Worth a shot to help find your issue.
Hmmn, good shout. Will see if one of my mates has one.
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The sealey one pressurises the system does it not ??
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Are your calipers on the right side and not upside down? Nipples should be at the top.
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Are your calipers on the right side and not upside down? Nipples should be at the top.
My nipples are in the right place :smiley:
Only one caliper has been replaced Drivers side front.
Fizzy fluid is on both channels on the front replaced lines and flexis on the front from caliper to M/c.
Back brakes/ calipers/ lines haven't been touched.