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General => The garage => Topic started by: DECKED-MK3-DUB on 12 March 2011, 19:04
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Any body ever done a vr6 chain with success ??
Im having issues..
I replaced top and botton chains and guides, i had my crank on the timing marks by the end pully, the line along crank cap, and i had my middle sprock spot on the little line that the tooth on the cog faces...
I then fitted the lower tensioner, flicked the little clip out and allowed the tensioner to push against the guide, i gave it a little tweek with the screw driver like auto data says and job done..
I then fitted the top chain, with the middle sprocket and lower marks all still spot on, i fitted the setting bar in the back of the cam shaft, put chain on.. replaced cover and then bled the tensioner like auto data say then screwed the tensioner in the back of the cover...
Every single mark was spot on, setting bar in cams was perfect...
If i wind it over by hand it goes round 1 full turn then bout 3/4 way round the second turn the chain goes slack between the 2 cams then goes SNACK and drops back tight again.. It will then be fine for another turn then SNACK it does it again..
I can still get setting bar in and all my marks are 100% spot on so timings not out ??? ive wound it over bout 60 times by hand and still it does the same thing...
Now according to peter russek manual they say install the chains top and bottom, then wind it over back to tdc again then install tensioners ???
So one else said to me that its becasue the heads been off and tensioners bled out there aint enough tension in the guides etc but will be fine once its crancked and got oil pressure..
On the other hand i may have gained some slack in the chain by installing the lower tensioner first ? rather than installing the chains then both tensioners last...
Has any one else had this problem or is it just me ?
Should i remove flywheel and clutch/ timing covers again and re time the engine and install tensioners last..
Or do i run the engine and hope that the oil pressure takes up the slack ? but possibly run the risk of the chain coming off..... I really dont know what to do or who to lisen to, auto data or peter russek manual ?
Help guys lol.... The chain remains tight the rest of the way round just every turn or so it gains half a tooth slack goes snack, then sits perfect and tight again... All timing marks remain spot on aswell.. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
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I might be wrong here, or missed it in your post, but the upper chains are tensioned with a hydraulic tensioner.
No oil pressure would mean incorrect tension, so surely the timing will not stay correct?
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The top hydraulic tensioner is oil fed, but you bleed the tensioner back to its start point.. when you screw it in the top cover you can see it pushes against the guide a little to hold the chain tight enough, but thats my whole point..
Have i done the timing incorrect or will the snacking of my chain become normal once there is oil pressure to the tensioner ?
My experence of other timing chains is that once i have all the parts assembled i can turn the engine over by hand with no problems at all..
Dont know weather to run my engine and hope oil pressure is all it needs or take off the clutch and fly wheel again along with the timing covers and re time the whole engine ?
According to the peter russek manual you should install both chains, turn engine bk round to tdc the install the tensioners ?? That just seams crazy.. some one must have down a vr6 chain on here and may be had similar problems ?
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What does the manual say?
I think the hydraulic tensioner needs to take up the slack.
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What does the manual say?
I think the hydraulic tensioner needs to take up the slack.
Spot on, I am 99% sure it does it also helps keeps the noise down.