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Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: tech1889 on 03 March 2011, 15:13
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Well im starting to take the mk2 engine out etc ready for the ABF.. And im stuck on something..
Ive undone the main hub nut on the front drivers side but for the life of me cant free the one on the passenger side.. I have a 2ft long snap-on breaker bar and ive pretty much hung off it to no avail.. ive tried putting a bit of heat on it still not budging.. Im slowly starting to chew the nut up so ive stopped for the moment..
Any ideas on freeing it up ?? Ive been looking at one of these http://www.tool-net.co.uk/p-345741/clarke-cir24.html but they only free up to like 200nm and the hub nut from what ive read is like 265nm..
Help please lol
Dan
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Well ive just bought a 24v sealey impact wrench as done some research and thats the best my money can afford lol
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Well ive just bought a 24v sealey impact wrench as done some research and thats the best my money can afford lol
I think you may be about to enter a life of 'f**k you rusty bolt'
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thats my attitude to the whole car at the mo.. I found my rust from the advisories.. need about 6inches of outer sill and a tad under the body where a drain hole has rusted and just fell apart when i hit it with hammer lol
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Have you tried tightening it up a bit to break the rust. Using some lubricant / freezing spray might help as well.
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Done both of them mate.. used tonnes of penetrating fluid.. dont have freeze fluid.. and yer tried tightening it up to no avail...
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24v impact!!!! get on it! :grin:
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Get a blow torch on it and get it REALLY hot. works everytime. Also give the breaker bar some sharp blows with a hammer. Might also help putting an axle stand under the wishbone to take any flex out.
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Well i put my blow torch on it but the stupid thing just kept going out lol.. just gona sort the wiring out until my impact comes and i can carry on with some mechanical :smiley:
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Well I received my impact wrench yesterday so first thing today thought I would undo that bolt... I have a 325 ft/lb impact wrench and the thing didn't even budge !! Any ideas guys keep at it with the wrench ??
Cheers
Dan
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Have you dropped it all off the car yet? Just dump the whole subframe down if your abf'ing it. if you have to remove it later, do it off the car?
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But surely it will be harder to remove once off the car ?? I'm using my 8v gearbox on the abf ?
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If your using that box etc just leave the driveshafts attached to the hubs on the subframe, drop it all,bin the 8v, bolt new engine to box and refix subframe with everything left on it. Makes it easier to clean up down there and replace things like rack bushes and cleaning bay etc. Unless you wanted to leave the subframe in, which will require splitting the box and undoing hubs etc? Your call but I'd dump it all out. Thought u had a complete donor mk3- bolt that subframe straight up can't ya? again without splitting anything?
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Get heat then freeze spray it should expand and contract it to loosen any rust.
Failing that some times a very long tube of steel on the impact wrench gives you a little more muscle :wink:
Final solution is to just drill it out, and re-tap it afterwards with a bigger bolt! :lipsrsealed:
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sounds like you need a big hammer, hammers fix everything, except wiring, which requires insulation tape and cable ties :nerd:
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Sorry cant drill as it's a nut not a bolt sorry for confusion.. I will drop it all if it's easier I'm just thinking of how to remove in the future.. Is freeze spray really that good ??
Will try a pole on my breaker failing that will drop it all out.. Yer had full donor car only kept front part of subframe not the rear shall I get another rear subframe or keep mk2 one ??
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Hammer is a good idea but wouldn't my impact wrench have given it more shock than a hammer ??
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dno, if not try an even bigger hammer, hammers know no limitations.
im not even joking, i wouldnt be giving up until it was off and id definatly be utilising the hammer purely for the shock factor.
little groove with the angle grinder, a good drift or old extension bar and a good few smacks with a hammer
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I will use my sledge hammer on it lol
Need to find a bit of scaffold pole now..
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I get my dad to hang off a 5ft scaffy pole in these situations......don't try this with budget sockets....that leads to a good hiding off the old man...
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knuckel bar and pole failing that, drill the nut an split it off
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Will keep yas updated :smiley:
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Feck that jus drop it and bin it and offer the mk3 lot up with bigger brakes etc..
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Na wana keep it 4 stud
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Fair play. Has it still got b/d drilled and grooved disks on? They're my old 1s I got sent by accident so sold em to kev!!right touch that was!!
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Yer still got em buddy they were better than I thought lol.. Might go to 280mm g60 brakes after the conversion..
Did you know keV well ??
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Yeah kevs a good mate. Known him years.. He's had mk2 1.6, mk2 20vt,mk4 20vt, now a 2.0 mk4. Poor lad he's gone the wrong way... Motorbikes as well. :(
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Gotta say hitting it with a copper hammer really fecking hard can loosen it up, thats what my mechanic does if stuff is rusted to sh!te. But like said splitting the nut sounds like the quickest and easiest solution, those nuts aint expensive .. And ffs when putting back together get some copper slip on there ;)
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what am i gona get in there to split it theres not exactly tonnes of room ??
my adaptor turned up today socket should be here tomo so will have a go at it tomo.. I will be replacing both the nuts any way.. and yer i will copper slip it up..
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And the hub nut is freed it went really easy with my metre long breaker bar.. :smiley:
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Right then ladies and gents.. as my engine bay is now totally empty apart formt he rear subframe which can be removed in minutes.. im going to be grinding all the paint back to bare metal.. I have the necessary disks and bits for my drill and grinder..
I also have a colour in mind which will be really nice :smiley:
My problem is i am curious on what primer to use for best anti corrosion ?? i can use cans in the bay but am going to strip the underside to bare metal and for that i will need a rust proofing primer that can be brushed on ??
Any ideas greatly appreciated :smiley:
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I'd only go back to metal on the rusty bits..just flat the paint down elsewhere.. When you drop a 16v in you can't see much paint anyway, I just polished the inner wings and bulkhead up the dumped the engine in. I wouldn't wanna go bk to bare metal then in a few years start having problems coming through.. Sort of aint broken don't fix it ya know.. My opinion anyway...
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good idea will rub down the problem areas and just flat the rest..
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Right well as some people know i already have a ABF lump sitting here ready to rebuild.. but a good friend has just told me he has just rebuilt a ABF and wants to sell it cheap as he bought another project 4.2 v8 mk2 or something..
this is what its had done would there be anything else to recommend changing ??
Skimmed and pressure tested head
New oil stem seals
recut valve heads
new timing chain and timing adjuster
Crank been recut and polished
new main bearings
conrod bearings
new piston rings
new bottom feed oil jackets