GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: X4MGS on 26 February 2011, 19:56
-
Getting hacked off with my Central Locking (OEM VDO Unit) & after market alarm (Cobra I Think!) & looking for some advise (Other than bin it!!)
Problems are when;
- Locking the car from the alarm fob - the alarm arms but the central locking won't lock the doors - the pins move but they won't go all the way down - as if there isn't enough power... so I have to lock the car with the keys...
Unlocking it all works fine - Boot wont lock at all, yo can here the pump try to lock but it don't work!
- Remote only works when up close to the car on the drivers side
Any suggestions??
-
Have you checked for vac leaks?
-
I haven't yet but I would have thought that if it was leaking it wouldn't work at all... and it unlocks with out any issue!
I'm thinking it could be lack of power!
-
Could it be the drivers motor/ solenoid being old and siezing up a bit? If its slowly got worse maybe? I'd start by whipping your doorcard off and watching it all in action, I'm sure youl prob see what's going on. You can also test the lock/unlock output on the alarm with a meter and check your seeing what you should be on that side of things.. Haven't really looked at a standard mk2 cl setup,I've got elec solenoids.. tho from what I can tell is the drivers lock also the switch that controls the pump for the rest of system?
-
Could it be the drivers motor/ solenoid being old and siezing up a bit? If its slowly got worse maybe? I'd start by whipping your doorcard off and watching it all in action, I'm sure youl prob see what's going on. You can also test the lock/unlock output on the alarm with a meter and check your seeing what you should be on that side of things.. Haven't really looked at a standard mk2 cl setup,I've got elec solenoids.. tho from what I can tell is the drivers lock also the switch that controls the pump for the rest of system?
I've got the battery on a trickle top up charger at the mo as I have not been happy with the GSF supplied unit (on my 3rd in a year!) and if it works with the battery fully charged it will be getting swapped for a Bosch one!!
If it's not this, then I think your advice is the next step forward... :smiley:
I've got a full spare set up from a car I'm breaking so will see if that makes any difference....
Will also look at fitting the Electric Mirrors I have at the same time as having the door cards off!
-
Yeah good call on the elec mirrors..it does sound like the problem is local to the drivers door lock mechanism, so hopefully you'll spot it without too much digging beneath interior trims..
-
If your boot wont lock at all I imadgine you have the very same problem I had untill this weekend.
You probally already know the locking positions of the boot key slot, but just encase horizontal with the key turned fully to the right = always open, vertical = alwasy locked and horizontal key turned all the way left = unlocked/locked depending on central locking.
If you pop off the plastic panel on the inside of the boot lid (held on my 5 push clips) you will reveal the back of the lock and the wiper motor etc. on the right hand side of the boot panel there will be a blue 'pod' with a rubber hose coming out of it followed by a brass looking rod which doubles back on itself and runs from right - left to the center of the boot and onto the mechanism which connects the push button on the boot to the lock/catch.
The rod runs through this mechanism (behind the white hooky thing) and out the other side. It is responsible for pushing the white plastic clip from side to side to lock/unlock the boot (technically its always unlocked but when the white hook is moved the button does not come in contact with it so you cant open it)
I had to use about a pint of WD40 and wiggle the long bar from left to right for about 5 minutes to free it up as mine was stuck solid. It would try to move and buzz etc, realise it was seized and give up. Which sounds like what is happening to you?
I found it helped to put a screw driver between the left hand side of the piece of metal which the white hooky thing sits in because without it the whole mechanism started to give a little instead of just the bar which goes through it.
After finnaly getting it loose and moving it back and forth whilst spraying in WD40 it now locks like a charm.
Hope that helps with the boot issue at least?
-
:cool:
Cheers for the info... Lets hope the rain stays away tomorrow!!
-
Had the trickle charger on since Sat Afternoon and with it now fully charged it seems to be working 100% as it should do!!
Whipped the rear panel off and gave it the once over as per HARVS suggested and lathered it in WD40 just in case but all seems to be fine and well greased... But thanks for the tip...
Now to get GSF to swap their crappy battery for a pucker Bosch one!
If your boot wont lock at all I imadgine you have the very same problem I had untill this weekend.
You probally already know the locking positions of the boot key slot, but just encase horizontal with the key turned fully to the right = always open, vertical = alwasy locked and horizontal key turned all the way left = unlocked/locked depending on central locking.
If you pop off the plastic panel on the inside of the boot lid (held on my 5 push clips) you will reveal the back of the lock and the wiper motor etc. on the right hand side of the boot panel there will be a blue 'pod' with a rubber hose coming out of it followed by a brass looking rod which doubles back on itself and runs from right - left to the center of the boot and onto the mechanism which connects the push button on the boot to the lock/catch.
The rod runs through this mechanism (behind the white hooky thing) and out the other side. It is responsible for pushing the white plastic clip from side to side to lock/unlock the boot (technically its always unlocked but when the white hook is moved the button does not come in contact with it so you cant open it)
I had to use about a pint of WD40 and wiggle the long bar from left to right for about 5 minutes to free it up as mine was stuck solid. It would try to move and buzz etc, realise it was seized and give up. Which sounds like what is happening to you?
I found it helped to put a screw driver between the left hand side of the piece of metal which the white hooky thing sits in because without it the whole mechanism started to give a little instead of just the bar which goes through it.
After finnaly getting it loose and moving it back and forth whilst spraying in WD40 it now locks like a charm.
Hope that helps with the boot issue at least?
-
Damn, that sucks I was sure that would be the problem :sad:
If its all free to move and lubed up what does the blue plastic pump/metal rod do when you lock/unlock the car then?
You said the pump makes a noise etc but the boot dusnt lock, if you look at the rod and the white plastic hook thing and get someone else so operate the central locking (or do it yourself as its remote?) what happens to the rod and white hooky thing? Because surely if it is moving freely as you say then it would have to lock?
-
Damn, that sucks I was sure that would be the problem :sad:
If its all free to move and lubed up what does the blue plastic pump/metal rod do when you lock/unlock the car then?
You said the pump makes a noise etc but the boot dusnt lock, if you look at the rod and the white plastic hook thing and get someone else so operate the central locking (or do it yourself as its remote?) what happens to the rod and white hooky thing? Because surely if it is moving freely as you say then it would have to lock?
He says he has sorted it mate ;)
-
He says he has sorted it mate ;)
Huh?
Whipped the rear panel off and gave it the once over as per HARVS suggested and lathered it in WD40 just in case but all seems to be fine and well greased... But thanks for the tip...
Does not look like that to me? sounds like he tried my suggestion but everything was well greased and fine anyway so it had no effect?
-
If its all free to move and lubed up what does the blue plastic pump/metal rod do when you lock/unlock the car then?
I didn't watch it TBH I just locked the car and tried the lock and it was locked! whipped off the panel as said and gave it the once over and put it all back together and it was all working fine...
It's back playing up today.... But I put this down to the duff battery and I assume it's not giving out enough power to operate the pumps properly...
-
He says he has sorted it mate ;)
Huh?
\/
Had the trickle charger on since Sat Afternoon and with it now fully charged it seems to be working 100% as it should do!!
-
Now Now Children.... :grin:
Thanks for the input!! Let's not get into a slanging match please!! :tongue:
-
:grin: Sorry mate, no slanging match intended. Hope the new battery sorts it for good.
-
Get your batteries from Ecp in future and while you're at it you might be interested to know that "pukka" as used in your context is spelt "pukka", not "pucker" as this would be appropriate for arseholes and lips.
-
Don't matter where you buy it - its about getting a decent battery in the 1st inst.... A "Pukka" Bosch one for future note...
Thanks for the English lesson - but with being from up north I'll stick to the "Pukka" spelling as in Pukka Pies!!
-
I just had a look on google maps to confirm my thoughts, and Blackpool is further up than Sheffield :nerd:
-
My bad, thought the 'working 100%' part was just about the battery :embarassed:
Glad its sorted :smiley:
-
New Bosch Silver Battery Fitted this afternoon & Guess what????
It's all working properly now...
Moral of this story... Don't Buy GSF Branded Batteries or Parts!!
I'm getting fed up with replacing their parts with OEM ones (even used ones Can be better than their new ones!!)..
-
If your boot wont lock at all I imadgine you have the very same problem I had untill this weekend.
You probally already know the locking positions of the boot key slot, but just encase horizontal with the key turned fully to the right = always open, vertical = alwasy locked and horizontal key turned all the way left = unlocked/locked depending on central locking.
If you pop off the plastic panel on the inside of the boot lid (held on my 5 push clips) you will reveal the back of the lock and the wiper motor etc. on the right hand side of the boot panel there will be a blue 'pod' with a rubber hose coming out of it followed by a brass looking rod which doubles back on itself and runs from right - left to the center of the boot and onto the mechanism which connects the push button on the boot to the lock/catch.
The rod runs through this mechanism (behind the white hooky thing) and out the other side. It is responsible for pushing the white plastic clip from side to side to lock/unlock the boot (technically its always unlocked but when the white hook is moved the button does not come in contact with it so you cant open it)
I had to use about a pint of WD40 and wiggle the long bar from left to right for about 5 minutes to free it up as mine was stuck solid. It would try to move and buzz etc, realise it was seized and give up. Which sounds like what is happening to you?
I found it helped to put a screw driver between the left hand side of the piece of metal which the white hooky thing sits in because without it the whole mechanism started to give a little instead of just the bar which goes through it.
After finnaly getting it loose and moving it back and forth whilst spraying in WD40 it now locks like a charm.
Hope that helps with the boot issue at least?
Good advice mate, sorted my boot lock out! :smiley: