GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Golf mk4 gallery => Topic started by: andyj775 on 07 February 2011, 19:07
-
how it all started. day 1 -
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG_0004-1.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG_0006-1.jpg)
this is my first VW so please go steady on me :smiley: well having only just found this area of the site i thought i'd start a bit of a project thread. half of the things i want to do have been done to the car (owned it 8 months), and i'm hoping to finish most of it by june/july. so the car as it is now:
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG_9946.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG_9951.jpg)
since owning it i've lowered it 40mm, fitted a g60 flywheel and vr6 clutch, fitted a cai, had it mapped by r-tech (stage 1 and made 192bhp) and had various bits sprayed (spoiler, splitters etc)
and the future plans are:
window tints, 10mm spacers all round, get the rear end lower then fit uprated shocks, 18 inch bbs LM's, then a cat back exhaust system, decat, front mount intercooler and fit polybushes all round. its going to be an expensive 6 months! but i've kept putting things off until now so it's my own fault!
some progress today anyway, managed to find a set of rear coilover springs and the adjuster cups. should be able to sort the nosedive out once they arrive!
thanks for reading and il try my best to keep it up to date
-
Very nice that mate!! Plans sound good! :afro:
-
Looks really good on the Rs6's :cool:
-
i like!! :kiss:
-
I like a lot.... rims suit it well and nice healthy power for stage 1. :afro:
-
Very nice :afro:
Some smoked headlights would finish this off a treat :cool:
-
Very nice :afro:
Some smoked headlights would finish this off a treat :cool:
You MK3 boys are bl00dy smoke obsessed! :grin:
I do want to do mine though! :lipsrsealed:
-
haha thanks for the replies there , i did consider darker headlights but im getting tints next tuesday and i think it will be 'too black' to be honest. ive even considered going back to silver vw badges but again im unsure :huh:
-
haha thanks for the replies there , i did consider darker headlights but im getting tints next tuesday and i think it will be 'too black' to be honest. ive even considered going back to silver vw badges but again im unsure :huh:
Nah, go for subtle stuff, light tints on the lights and windows, maybe find another colour for details to break it up? bit of red here and there maybe... that's the route I'll be taking with my little toy anyway.
-
Thats looking really good mate, i've been tempted to repray my badges black aswell but just been unsure whether too :undecided:, i have gone for two colours with mine but its shown more under the bonnet with yellow detailing, and i'm gonna be doing my calipers the same once the weathers a bit nicer :cool:
-
Thats looking really good mate, i've been tempted to repray my badges black aswell but just been unsure whether too :undecided:, i have gone for two colours with mine but its shown more under the bonnet with yellow detailing, and i'm gonna be doing my calipers the same once the weathers a bit nicer :cool:
If the badges need respraying, do it..... it's pretty easy. maybe do the badges yellow? lipsrsealed
-
i have toyed with the idea of a bit of a colour to go with calipers etc. just being able to do it tastefully! going to be an interesting couple of months :smiley:
-
i have toyed with the idea of a bit of a colour to go with calipers etc. just being able to do it tastefully! going to be an interesting couple of months :smiley:
Well if you need tips when the time comes just say... if the results go t1ts up then there's plenty of here to laugh at them! :wink:
-
If the badges need respraying, do it..... it's pretty easy. maybe do the badges yellow? lipsrsealed
Hmm maybe not a bad idea :tongue:
-
after a lot of thinking, im just gonna take the plunge next week and get coilovers, spacers and the bigger looped arb. looking into the arb, it seems some people still have probs with the driveshaft rubbing it. is this because their cars are really low? dont want to splash £100 when theres a better alternative. and don't really want to go for droplinks. sorry for all the questions, just new to all this
andy
-
bit of a boring update, windows are now tinted. coilovers are ordered. had a nightmare trying to get supersport poly top mounts so settled on 'febi-bilstein' made mounts (called something lke that anyway!) ordered audi TT rear bushes for my wishbones, 10mm hubcentric rear spacers and 5mm fronts. once all arrived will start fitting it. lots of pics to follow, hope things pan out well so i can get my LM's on in march!
-
well after a hectic week, fitting bits to the golf around my night shifts, im finally seeing some real progress. first up was the tints, done by RCS based in Denbigh. 50% fronts, 35% rears. then i fitted the FK AK coilovers, few minor issues here and there (i should have bought a 21mm deep socket and 7mm allen key before starting!). there was minor catching on the front whilst i had 5mm spacers on, so the day after whilst trying to level up the stance, i put the 10mm spacers on all round. no catching now! i wanted the supersport poly top mounts from venom, but after a quick phone call they said they were out of stock, and also was a waiting list for them :angry: so settled for the audi tt/r32 topmounts (febi-bilstein made i think!). only done 30 or so miles since fitting so cant really comment on them but no clonks or bangs up to now! all thats left to do for this month is fit new rear wishbone bushes, then go and get the wheels aligned. also paint and fit a sharan rear badge, going back to chrome to break up the all black rear end.
going to level the stance up in a week or so when all is settled. somehow managed to lose a centre cap somewhere along the line, 3 weeks until getting the BBS LM's though so not too bothered!
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG00126-20110220-1442.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG00130-20110220-1443.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG00127-20110220-1442.jpg)
-
Looks spot on that :) i like these in black :lipsrsealed:
-
cheers for the comment, yeah enjoying the car much more now that it looks a bit more how i want it! happy days
-
looks fairly decent considering its a mk3
-
looks fairly decent considering its a mk3
:huh:
-
looks fairly decent considering its a mk3
Look again it is a mk4 :smiley:
-
looks fairly decent considering its a mk3
:huh:
:laugh: :laugh:
-
just an update as ive done a few things. after 5 weeks of waiting, my wheels arrived. was all out for getting LM reps but had a last minute change of heart. love the new ones anyway (team dynamics pro race 1.2s). levelled up the coilovers all round, sprayed the back of the vw badges red to tie in with the wheels, and got flatblade wipers all round. sold the deflectors as im going for a simple approach (like project 4mo). got smoked side repeaters and next up is black headlights. just finished wrapping my dash bits in the carbon effect 3m stuff looks much better! also got the black inner door handles to rid the car of the wood effect now just waiting on a hong kong gearknob. will get some good pics of it all when i get a chance.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG_9971-2.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG_9972-1.jpg)
-
that looks sweet as mate!!! well worth the wait!!
-
Nice mate, always look good in black! I think I actually preferred the old wheels though! :shocked:
-
thanks for the comments guys
-
Really nice looking Mk4.. :)
-
cheers mate will be interesting to see how yours turns out too, good luck with it all. andy
-
Looking good, I really like the new wheels :cool:
-
not much to add over the last week, fitted a delocking kit and thats about it. but i have booked my car in for a custom turbo-back exhaust this week and have decided that im keeping the votex valance as it is and having the tailpipes 'discreet'. the guy's also making a removeable decat 'piece' with a flange either end, and also modding the cat so that come mot time i will just have to unbolt 2 flanges and swap over! i will update once done, can't wait! :evil:
andy
-
looking :cool: mate keep up the good work :smiley:
-
thanks mate, just a front mount intercooler to go then going to start sourcing bits for a k04 conversion. funny how after every thing i do to the car i feel a bit more adventurous!
-
:laugh: the fun never stops :cool:
-
and neither does the 'want' list haha
-
Looked much better before you put the red highlights on. Just my opinion though :)
-
Looked much better before you put the red highlights on. Just my opinion though :)
to be fair it has crossed my mind that i should have gone down the bbs LM route, even though there are a lot of golfs with them on. just that i'd only be able to afford reps. going to all types show this weekend. will be good to see what they look like in the flesh if anyone there has them, then will make a decision. thanks for the input
-
looked perfect on the audis :lipsrsealed:
-
ch,s mate :wink: :cool:
-
right, bought and fitted some black DEPO projector headlights to finally finish the outside off, now its all about engine mods and brakes. custom exhaust was made by HIB exhausts in Anglesey, and it sounds exactly how i wanted. cant recommend them enough. had a good chat with the guy about piping up a front mount intercooler in the near future and modifying the downpipe for when i go to a new turbo setup, but im torn between a garrett gt28 or a k04 setup. both have their advantages/disadvantages, but after reading page upon page about people doing the garrett setup (which i am swaying towards more than the k04 at the moment), it seems that the biggest issue after sourcing all the bits would be the pipework locations on the new turbo. but the exhaust guy says he will sort it for me so fingers crossed. will put some recent pics up soon, and im now settled on the wheels and they're here to stay !
andy
-
the DEPO's-
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG_9995-1.jpg)
and i've changed my mind again and am now settled on the k04 plan! a lot more common than the gt28 so i'm hoping that if i have any issues there will be answers on the net. plus 250-270bhp will be more than enough through the front wheels, and slightly less time for the turbo to kick in. i read somewhere that the k04 flange to exhaust manifold is very restrictive, so i will have to do some research on this and see if theres any alternative manifold available.
so, the list-
(if anyone has any advice or better suggestions please feel free to reply)
k04 turbo (022 or 023? any real difference?)
audi TT 225 manifold (or a better one if there is one)
k04 oil lines x2
k04 water hoses x2
genesis 380cc injectors (can you use leon cupra r ones?)
audi tt silicone TIP
Audi TT 225 maf - 3 inch
cone filter - 3 inch
NGK BKR7E Plugs
then various bolts and gaskets (hoping these will be available from audi)
and finally get the car trailered up to the fabricators to get downpipe modified and intercooler pipework.
anything i've missed? i already have a corrado g60 flywheel and vr6 clutch, 2.5 inch system and soon to have front mount intercooler. also speaking to a guy about r32 brakes. just want all the bases covered before buying the bits!
-
Looks really mean :cool:
-
Looks great!
-
Why not stick to the standard 2.5" maf and let the tuners line it up with your injectors?
Also what about a new k04-001 turbo (21psi limit) which is a direct bolt on, this way you will keep everything in the engine bay the same and will not have to mess around with using a more restrictive k04 1.8T manifold?
Or have a look at hybrid options, I know you can get the k03 to perform like a k04-001 for nearly the same price as the new turbo... will have to look up what the costs for gains are so take that with a pinch of salt.
As for the brake topic don't forget to consider upgrading the lines, the improvement you get with just the lines and higher boiling point fluid is quite considerable especially if you want to get the most out of the setup you have or plan to have. Also good tires are a must, your brakes are as good as your tires and they are the only things that keep you on the road.
Considered doing anything to the chassis as well as power is nothing if it cannot be utilized, uprate dogbone to r32 or powerflex. Bush upgrade. Struts. Coilovers, even cheap JOM and FK AK coilovers are a huge improvement over the stock system.
Also FMIC system, how far will you go with tuning will it end at 260bhp or will you decide to go crazy or are you able to limit yourself? This will help you decide on the pipework diameter. I know around the 300bhp mark 2.5" pipes become ideal, 260bhp "2 will still do. The FMIC is not easy to fit due to the limited space behind the bumper so you may want to consider r32 bumper as well depending on how you go about doing things.
Just idea's that may be worth food for thought
-
Why not stick to the standard 2.5" maf and let the tuners line it up with your injectors?
Also what about a new k04-001 turbo (21psi limit) which is a direct bolt on, this way you will keep everything in the engine bay the same and will not have to mess around with using a more restrictive k04 1.8T manifold?
Or have a look at hybrid options, I know you can get the k03 to perform like a k04-001 for nearly the same price as the new turbo... will have to look up what the costs for gains are so take that with a pinch of salt.
As for the brake topic don't forget to consider upgrading the lines, the improvement you get with just the lines and higher boiling point fluid is quite considerable especially if you want to get the most out of the setup you have or plan to have. Also good tires are a must, your brakes are as good as your tires and they are the only things that keep you on the road.
Considered doing anything to the chassis as well as power is nothing if it cannot be utilized, uprate dogbone to r32 or powerflex. Bush upgrade. Struts. Coilovers, even cheap JOM and FK AK coilovers are a huge improvement over the stock system.
Also FMIC system, how far will you go with tuning will it end at 260bhp or will you decide to go crazy or are you able to limit yourself? This will help you decide on the pipework diameter. I know around the 300bhp mark 2.5" pipes become ideal, 260bhp "2 will still do. The FMIC is not easy to fit due to the limited space behind the bumper so you may want to consider r32 bumper as well depending on how you go about doing things.
Just idea's that may be worth food for thought
thanks for the opinions.
id put the 3 inch MAF on the list as its what is used on the TT's , and also when buying the k04 intake pipe it would be 3 inches at that end i assume.
ive looked into the turbo's again and again and i've settled on the K04-022/023. as i understand, putting the k04-001 on wouldnt see much of a gain over a k03s, and i've found a manifold that will be suitable to use now, think its JBS.
with the brakes, do you mean the lines in the arch, or do you mean the complete lines underneath the car? yes would definitely be up for upgrading them, thanks for the idea.
ive got a superpro dogbone bush, got TT wishbone bushes and FK coilovers with TT topmounts on already and it has firmed it up nicely. it has highlighted a bit of an issue though, the engine mount above the gearbox has a lot of play in it, so nearer the time of the car being in bits i will look for new mounts or alternatives.
as for the FMIC, i've just been out today doing a bit of measuring, and it seems the pipe from intercooler to throttle body is 2.5 inch. as for intercooler to turbo, outlet off the cooler is 2.5 inch, but was unable to get to where the pancake pipe meets the rubber pipe so does anyone know if this is 2.5 inch aswell? if so then it makes sense to stick with 2.5 diameter. and yes whatever power i get after doing this, i wont be going for any more. a useable 260bhp will be more than enough for me, and will be concentrating more on ways to get the power down.
it cooks your head looking at page upon page of peoples conversions and how they went about them, so thanks again for the advice/opinions :wink:
-
Though the k04-023 was the one to go for as it was better in design for performance, not sure how though...
Between the TB and turbo on the 1.8T its a mess TBH... TB is 2.5" as you said, but before the TB it reduces back to 2" and then... its already making me cry.
Basically; Turbo outlet: 2.0"
Pancake Inlet: 2.25"
Pancake outlet: 2.5" (don't quot me on this end)
SMIC Inlet: 2.5"
SMIC outlet: 2.5"
Between TB it drops back to 2.0"
TB: 2.5"
Thats from memory as I made a pancake by-pass a very long time ago... from the design of the system it does maintain a more or less solid 2" design. To me it seems like the pancake has an increased size due to it being restrictive. And the SMIC has a huge core and diameter for a simple reason that the air also takes a bend inside, again its an assumption, but I cannot see why they would otherwise increase the diameter to drop down again.
Another thing to consider is not to run the pipework the same way the standard car does, I'm not sure if you noticed but where the pancake and SMIC piping is, it is easily caught and rubs especially on a lowered car. I'm sure the PD engines ran a pipe between the coolant box and the cambelt, that may be an idea. Then you could always take the pipework round the other way to the passenger side and just go over the gearbox linkage.
With the brake line kits I think I went C&R with a goodridge setup, they do hoses for the front, hoses for the back and they also do replacement copper piping for the mid-to-rear section of the car. You can buy it all together or in bits they are quite flexible and offer a good service from my experience.
-
Though the k04-023 was the one to go for as it was better in design for performance, not sure how though...
Between the TB and turbo on the 1.8T its a mess TBH... TB is 2.5" as you said, but before the TB it reduces back to 2" and then... its already making me cry.
Basically; Turbo outlet: 2.0"
Pancake Inlet: 2.25"
Pancake outlet: 2.5" (don't quot me on this end)
SMIC Inlet: 2.5"
SMIC outlet: 2.5"
Between TB it drops back to 2.0"
TB: 2.5"
Thats from memory as I made a pancake by-pass a very long time ago... from the design of the system it does maintain a more or less solid 2" design. To me it seems like the pancake has an increased size due to it being restrictive. And the SMIC has a huge core and diameter for a simple reason that the air also takes a bend inside, again its an assumption, but I cannot see why they would otherwise increase the diameter to drop down again.
Another thing to consider is not to run the pipework the same way the standard car does, I'm not sure if you noticed but where the pancake and SMIC piping is, it is easily caught and rubs especially on a lowered car. I'm sure the PD engines ran a pipe between the coolant box and the cambelt, that may be an idea. Then you could always take the pipework round the other way to the passenger side and just go over the gearbox linkage.
With the brake line kits I think I went C&R with a goodridge setup, they do hoses for the front, hoses for the back and they also do replacement copper piping for the mid-to-rear section of the car. You can buy it all together or in bits they are quite flexible and offer a good service from my experience.
with the intercooler, the guys basically said if i get cooler, a few couplings and clips then they will make the pipework for it. this is the reason for all my measuring today. argh intercooler...another issue! theres an intercooler on ebay which is only slightly bigger than the forge, with the outlets both on drivers side. i was all set for getting this when funds allowed for it, but when i went on before to double check the dimensions, the company no longer sells them! it had 3 inch outlets, which would have needed 2 reducers straight away, but was brand new and £100, and with the samco's and clips would have still been under £200. dont get me wrong i look at the forge kit and see everything fitting perfectly and it did appeal to me, but i just see 600 as a lot to pay. as for pipework route, i really need to look at the original hose to turbo route (from pancake pipe). i love the look of the S3 pipework neatly running up the drivers side then round the back, if i could replicate this in some way id be more than happy to do it. if anyone has a good rear view of the pancake pipe to turbo assembly it'd be a great help.
in an ideal situation, id mount the intercooler to the crash bar at home, iv got a mate who can weld some L brackets for me. then do all the chopping and shaving to get the bumper to fit right, then go to the fabricators with a bag of couplings and clips (by the sound of it i may need reducers too now) then rid the car of the SMIC and let the guy work his magic.
with your pancake bypass did you do all the way to the turbo? or to the red original pipe? got any pics?
in my head its like this at the moment:
intercooler to throttle body
reducer on IC (3inch to 2.5), 2.5 inch pipe shaped the same as original hose, then 2.5 coupling to throttle body
intercooler to turbo
reducer on IC (3inch to 2.5), 2.5 inch pipe into engine bay, 1 coupling low down, then pipework straight up and try and replicate the S3's position to around the rear of the engine, but from then onwards is where i need help as i haven't got a clue what goes on behind there! also are you able to buy aluminium flanges for any sensors in the piping? sorry for all the questions i just want to make this the best i can without buying any wrong bits!
thanks for the info on the lines, will look into it when my brain recovers!
andy
-
With brake hoses head goodridge, as I tried two different suppliers off blackdiamond hoses and each time the hoses had the wrong connectors for the brakes, they had mk3 ends :rolleyes: All good if I had a sail and a paddle but unfortunately I have a mk4.
Here's there website: http://www.candrenterprises.co.uk/
They also have a ebay shop with the kit for the mk4: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-Golf-4-Mk4-Goodridge-Brake-Lines-6-/110683092419?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c539f5c3
I know the FMIC you are talking about, as a member recently bought one in the mk4 section and was told it was a forge one, which it wasn't and he wanted some advice on it. Might be worth seeing if he may sell it on to you depending if he still wants to go ahead and fit it or not, no harm in asking. Cannot remember for the life off me what the post was though or the persons name.
Also the sensor question, forge will do the pipe in the diameter you need with the flange for the sensor. Thought they had it on there shop otherwise give them a call. http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=260301TUN&product=FMMAPT
As for the pancake pipe it was literally to replace the pancake no further, from memory out the turbo the metal pipe you see at the back of the engine is joined to the turbo via a silicone joint. Then it goes down and the link between the pancake and that pipe is connected by a stretch of silicone.
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g71/sibilev/pancake1.jpg)
Brackets don't need to be mega reinforced aluminum ones will do rather than going OTT and welding
A place near me does custom pipework as they have pipe benders and hydraulic beading tools. if I supplied the IC then to fit and get it all done it would off only been £200 which is not a bad price. It would off been completely done in stainless steel, they would of also mounted and done the brackets to the FMIC etc all with 2" pipework with the way I wanted it run... But I decided to go DIY and got a A4 1.8T aftermarket FMIC and ordered some aluminum pipes and did it myself, it didn't work out that much cheaper as I had to order a beading tool in the process which ran the cost close to what they would of charged. But it benefited me in it was done to the way I wanted and to the standard I wanted as I also heat wrapped all the pipes in the process.
-
With brake hoses head goodridge, as I tried two different suppliers off blackdiamond hoses and each time the hoses had the wrong connectors for the brakes, they had mk3 ends :rolleyes: All good if I had a sail and a paddle but unfortunately I have a mk4.
Here's there website: http://www.candrenterprises.co.uk/
They also have a ebay shop with the kit for the mk4: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-Golf-4-Mk4-Goodridge-Brake-Lines-6-/110683092419?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c539f5c3
I know the FMIC you are talking about, as a member recently bought one in the mk4 section and was told it was a forge one, which it wasn't and he wanted some advice on it. Might be worth seeing if he may sell it on to you depending if he still wants to go ahead and fit it or not, no harm in asking. Cannot remember for the life off me what the post was though or the persons name.
Also the sensor question, forge will do the pipe in the diameter you need with the flange for the sensor. Thought they had it on there shop otherwise give them a call. http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=260301TUN&product=FMMAPT
As for the pancake pipe it was literally to replace the pancake no further, from memory out the turbo the metal pipe you see at the back of the engine is joined to the turbo via a silicone joint. Then it goes down and the link between the pancake and that pipe is connected by a stretch of silicone.
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g71/sibilev/pancake1.jpg)
Brackets don't need to be mega reinforced aluminum ones will do rather than going OTT and welding
A place near me does custom pipework as they have pipe benders and hydraulic beading tools. if I supplied the IC then to fit and get it all done it would off only been £200 which is not a bad price. It would off been completely done in stainless steel, they would of also mounted and done the brackets to the FMIC etc all with 2" pipework with the way I wanted it run... But I decided to go DIY and got a A4 1.8T aftermarket FMIC and ordered some aluminum pipes and did it myself, it didn't work out that much cheaper as I had to order a beading tool in the process which ran the cost close to what they would of charged. But it benefited me in it was done to the way I wanted and to the standard I wanted as I also heat wrapped all the pipes in the process.
ive saved the brake hose kit in my watch list, cheers for that!
thanks also for the heads up about forge having the flange, and i think ive got a rough idea of the route to turbo now.
pancake > silicon pipe > metal charge pipe which goes up the back of the engine and then downwards then silicon to turbo. if thats the case then i cant see a major issue with taking the new route (similar to the S3 route). the charge pipe has 2 outlets (to dump valve i think) but im sure the guy can incorporate them into my new pipework. time will tell anyway, learning as i go here but want to do as much as i can by myself. id love to do the pipework myself but im thinking that putting elbows instead of a bend in the pipe is just creating a weak spot in the system. end result must of been satisfying though, and them clamps you've used are the sort i want. are they mikalor? pancake replacement looks spot on :cool:
-
I'll take a picture of what I did with the DV... I relocated it the same way the forge kit does just for a fraction off the cost. The forge kit puts the DV just before the TB. This ensures when it opens the air recirculated is air that has been cooled off by the aftercooler (intercooler). Where it sits stock the air recirculated is actually warmer as the turbo warms air up due to its function of how it produces the boost, which is why cars have intercoolers to cool it back down.
Also remember you need a split in the the charge pipe just after the turbo, the stock system already has this, think its a 8mm split off which then runs a vacuum pipe to the n75.
I just reused the standard charge pipe, chopped the T section I needed and beaded it as so:
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g71/sibilev/FMIC/FMIC21.jpg)
You could also take the piping round the passengers side as well and over the gear link, make sure its high enough not to interfere with the linkages movement if you do go this way.
-
Very nice motor. Your only down the road too
-
cheers mate saw yours in the mk4 section, looks mint!
-
been a busy one today, may not seem much but spent most of the day on my knees lol!
rear pads were down to a few mm's, front discs had a nice rusty lip on and pink calipers so bought discs and pads and a tin of hammerite and set to work. will get better pics up tomorrow but heres a front before and after
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG00034-20110625-0941.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG00038-20110625-1813.jpg)
(yes they're opposite sides!)
and also the r32 dsg intake with pipercross filter (fed up of looking at my cheapo induction pipe/filter so gone back to oem for now)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG00022-20110623-1302.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG00026-20110623-1334.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG00029-20110623-1356.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG00032-20110623-1458.jpg)
will put up the part numbers tomorrow for anyone considering this mod. any difference???? well its quieter up front, but feels smoother low down somehow? just need the 2 airbox lid screws, vw on monday!
all in all a great day, gutted i didnt get the goodridge braided lines in time. will have to fit next weekend. andy
-
following on from a good report comes a bad one :sad:
decided to treat the car to a good run as ive just been pottering about for the last 3 weeks or so, and needed some clothes for chester races saturday so decided to go to the trafford centre. went about 7pm last night, alone as most mates were with the missus etc.
had a bit of a blast, and when i got there, pressed lock on fob, didnt work. put fob close to car pressed again ........... LOCK!
went in and did my shopping, came back out around 9pm. pressed unlock on fob, nothing. pressed again, nothing. pressed lock button ........ ALARM!!! walked around whole car pressing unlock, at all heights, still nothing. rang my insurance telling them the situation, to make matters worse i was on the upper level so a 2 metre height restriction meaning i couldnt be towed etc! car is in gear and handbrake on anyway so would need lifting :cry:
get a text saying recovery guy will be 61mins , so went back inside to a jewellery shop, to see if i could get replacement batteries for the fob. after a lot of the staff looking down at me etc (probably because i wanted to buy something less than 100 quid!) they said they have none suitable. probably isnt the batteries anyway but i was really struggling for ideas.
anyway recovery guy turns up, has a look and a press of the fob etc, sees my delocked handles and says .......... F**KIN HELL!
next:
removes centre grill from front bumper to try and get his arm up to bonnet cable - FAIL
sprays a load of something into boot lock to see if can get key to go in - FAIL
wedges both doors and gets rods in to pull the handles, door knobs were lifting right up but still no opening - FAIL
tries to 'jump start' batteries in fob then assembles key back together, presses unlock but nothing. presses lock and alarm goes off - FAIL
did some laps of the car pressing unlock but still nowt.
at one point i asked for a suitable object to smash a window, but he talked me out of it as he says it may be something to do with the signal on the key meaning car wouldnt start anyway. he said all signals for security cameras on car park etc may be affecting it???
so he offers to take me home, i agree and jump in his van. he rings my insurance to update them, when i hear Mr Admiral say hes only covered for 10 miles from the broken down vehicle .............. F**K! im 46 miles away so ask how much would it be anyway, guy says 105 quid! this resulted in me getting the midnight train home from manchester picadilly to chester ....... £10.70!
got a mate whos taking me back to the car this afternoon, gonna take my spare key, get some spare batteries from halfords on the way, and as a last resort a few essential tools including hammer! im completely miffed as to whats happened, other than one other thing that may be related. my interior light doesnt come on when opening my drivers door (not sure on passenger one). and looking into it, central locking and interior light share a fuse??
can anyone shed any light on this? its got to a point now where i just want the car on my driveway, damaged or not. thanks for reading
-
All I can suggest is once you got it sorted is rig up a mechanical failsafe that allows you to open a door if it happens again. When it was cool to delock Beetles years ago we use to run a cable from the internal latch mechanism in the door, through the A post into the front inner arch and fit a small handle or loop. A quick tug released the door. Not 100% secure but you could be clever where you site it, behind the arch liner, fog light grill or something.
I would expect that once you've entered your car by whatever means that when you start the car the transponder in the key will shut the alarm and immobiliser off irrespective of the remote locking working or not.
-
All I can suggest is once you got it sorted is rig up a mechanical failsafe that allows you to open a door if it happens again. When it was cool to delock Beetles years ago we use to run a cable from the internal latch mechanism in the door, through the A post into the front inner arch and fit a small handle or loop. A quick tug released the door. Not 100% secure but you could be clever where you site it, behind the arch liner, fog light grill or something.
I would expect that once you've entered your car by whatever means that when you start the car the transponder in the key will shut the alarm and immobiliser off irrespective of the remote locking working or not.
great cheers nige, and yes something will definitely be getting done regarding future entry! im thinking smash drivers window and reach in and get the key in ignition. takes less time and less attention!
-
I would guess the car park is blocking the signal in someway.
Seems a shame to smash the window.
-
How would the car park block the signal when he's standing next to the car?
If all else fails take the drivers window in, probably about £15 to buy secondhand and an hour or so to install.
-
Navy seal team must be using jammers, ask them to pop a cruise missile through the window.
-
So the boot lock is siezed?
Can either smash a window or rip a door handle out. Or drill the door handle where the barrel should be (IIRC, the outer plastic should remove) and if you drill it in the correct spot, the left hand section of the handle will come out OR if you drill it where the barrel should be, there should be a hole directly where the original paddle would unlock the car.
You can then use a screwdriver to turn the inside mechanism twice in the locking position and this will turn the alarm off.
How have they been delocked?
-
How would the car park block the signal when he's standing next to the car?
Not sure but I have seen it happen so it is possible
-
Thanks for the replies, the spare fob did nothing so taped up the window and smashed it. reached in and got it out of gear, ignition on and vroom she fired up! unlocked doors with the button on the drivers doorcard and i was in. took window out completely and cleaned up glass off the car park and i was away! and it just had to rain didnt it :rolleyes: anyway car now home, original locks refitted and car locked up for the night. new window being picked up tomorrow 20quid, cant tell you what a relief it is to get it home. no buttons on any of the fobs do anything now, will disconnect the battery for an hour tomorrow then retry but im not holding my breath. noticed once home, neither door when open makes interior light come on. all fuses ok though. any ideas? thanks very much for all the advice.
andy
-
Check in the owners manual how to reprogramme the remote locking. Sometimes they lose the link if blipped and out of range of the car, or just flat batteries. Think there is also a how to in the tech section in Mk4
-
Check in the owners manual how to reprogramme the remote locking. Sometimes they lose the link if blipped and out of range of the car, or just flat batteries. Think there is also a how to in the tech section in Mk4
thanks again nige, will give it a go tomorrow :wink:
-
Ah the joys of MK4's.
Stick one key in the ignition on, put the other into the drivers door, window down, turn to locking position and oush lock on both fobs.
IIRC.
-
well after the joys of the lock issue, and fitting a new window going to plan, ive decided to carry on in preparation of the turbo conversion. i was going to get injectors, MAF and braided oil lines made up this month, but after a boring morning led me to ebay ive ended up buying a twin pass intercooler, mikalor clamps, and also reducers and couplings from siliconhoses.com . its a job ive kept putting off due to the fitment issues people have, but decided front mount is the only worthwhile option. am i right in saying AGU's dont have a map sensor built into the sidemount intercooler?
-
well after the joys of the lock issue, and fitting a new window going to plan, ive decided to carry on in preparation of the turbo conversion. i was going to get injectors, MAF and braided oil lines made up this month, but after a boring morning led me to ebay ive ended up buying a twin pass intercooler, mikalor clamps, and also reducers and couplings from siliconhoses.com . its a job ive kept putting off due to the fitment issues people have, but decided front mount is the only worthwhile option. am i right in saying AGU's dont have a map sensor built into the sidemount intercooler?
You are correct in saying so buddy :afro:
-
thanks mate, im replicating your 50mm diameter pipe that you replaced the pancake pipe with. dreading the intercooler fitting but has to be done!
-
Thanks.
Inter coolers not that bad, I stuck with 50mm piping and ditched the pancake system/route altogether, I instead ran the piping 90degress out the turbo to the passengers side and over the gear linkage, so the pipe went on the passengers side into the intercooler, then out the intercooler straight to the TB (so it was on the correct side for the TB.
-
Seems like you had some fun time recently! :rolleyes: Good to see it's sorted now.
-
the fun is never ending :sick: :sick: :sick: managed to get the intercooler mounted this weekend, LOTS of cutting behind the bumper. bumpers been on and off countless times, had to lose the centre grill, drivers side grill is going to have to be 'shaved' as the cooler has both outlets that end, the lower outlet sticks out of the vent so ive trimmed it and a mate is going to weld a kick-back bend (which also has to get under the towing point). lots of faffing around up to now but seem to be making progress. will throw some pics up soon, but the moral of the story is ..... if you have £600 burning a hole in your pocket, BUY THE FORGE!!!!!
-
It's not that bad :drool:
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g71/sibilev/FMIC/FMIC29.jpg)
Thats mine with bumper still looking standard and all grills on.
-
lol mine will end up nothing like that! its huge! but just been out for a blast and touching the front mount it was ice cold! compared to the sidemount which was warmer so not all bad :nerd:
-
firstly id just like to say, the above pic is going to show up my attempt so much! got to a point now where im happy the way everything fits, (minus the brace that holds the cooler, which needs work and also crash bar which needs serious work to go back on) and now can push on with the pipework and actually use it!!
p.s. my bodywork skills are not the best, but ive took my time and had a go, and now the bumper is ready to go into the bodyshop and get prepped and sprayed by a pro! ive primed my work and put one coat of black magic over it for now to stop it standing out so much!!
the cooler (600 x 300 x 76) ebay special
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG00079-20110720-1244.jpg)
the mock up and start of the :sick: :sick: :sick:
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG00082-20110722-1333.jpg)
a hopeful attempt at 'trying' to get my bumper to fit
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG00083-20110722-1538.jpg)
one of many issues
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG00087-20110722-1707.jpg)
a quick steel brace knocked up by my mate to help with mounting
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG00096-20110724-1546.jpg)
admitting defeat that most of my bumper and splitter can fit as they should, i did this:
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG00102-20110729-1633.jpg)
believe me, i was as reluctant to do this as anyone will say, and i know im gonna get abuse! ive got a discreet exhaust etc and wanted the fmic discreet too, but this was the only option for this cooler to fit.
mock up number 2,349!!
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG00110-20110730-1040.jpg)
finishing my prep:
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG00114-20110730-1543.jpg)
and finally on the car with its 1 layer of spray until bodyshop can fit me in:
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG00120-20110730-1858.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/andyj775/IMG00124-20110730-1946.jpg)
there you have it, the reason you should buy forge/THS! half way through i was going to rip everything off and buy a proper kit, but lack of funds/nagging by my mate kept me going with this idea. i was going to bring the top of the cooler out to try and follow the line of the bumper a bit better, but this will reduce efficiency of it and now its on show i want to get the maximum out of it as i can. i am happy with it, not 100% happy but i will be once the other issues have been sorted. plus im going to give the intercooler a dusting of either black or gunmetal grey (and side grills) to blend it into the bumper a bit more.
cue the hate !! :laugh:
-
Loks good, paint the intercooler black to finish it off.
-
Awesome work.. very tidy.
Due to the syle of your car with everything being very dark I would say the same as Wayne, maybe with some kind of writing on it in red or white maybe?
(http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0063/6262/products/Mishimoto_Universal_Intercooler_G_Line_Black_medium.jpg?100029)
-
thanks for the comments, and yes the cooler is definitely going black. my sister suggested some red writing of some sort too, but what would i get? ebay? toyosport? time attack? made in china? haha
-
thanks for the comments, and yes the cooler is definitely going black. my sister suggested some red writing of some sort too, but what would i get? ebay? toyosport? time attack? made in china? haha
Your initials?
-
thanks for the comments, and yes the cooler is definitely going black. my sister suggested some red writing of some sort too, but what would i get? ebay? toyosport? time attack? made in china? haha
Your initials?
Or move over written in reverse. (so in a mirror it reads correct)
-
"Princess on board" in pink on black IC.
I'd usually put credit to tuners like R-Tech, AMD... etc Or do something to make it stand out, forum name, "GTI" written on it, or get a smurf painted on... Whatever floats your boat.
Good job on IC now all you need is more power :)
-
after much thought and 18 months of owning, ive decided that once i get a suitable cheap runaround the golf will be getting broken. everything will be available and nearer the time i will put up a detailed list of whats available. just thought i'd give the forum first refusal on bits as some sort of repayment for the help you've given me :smiley: chances are next weekend (17-18th) i will make a start on it. thanks, andy
-
Shame :sad: its a nice motor