GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: mk2rolf16v on 29 January 2011, 16:18
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hi,
ive a 1990 mk2 golf 16valver (kr engine), lately its developed a rough idle problem, where the idle fluctuates between 1200 and 500 rpm... it gets worse when any accessories are turned on such as lights and heater, and sometimes on verge of stalling too.
what should i be checking?? any help would be much appreciated.
cheers.
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hi again,
just want to add also that ive had a bit of work done to the car lately - refurbished head with new seals gaskets, new oil, coolant, spark plugs, dizzy cap, rotor arm, injector seals..... but the problem still persists, still the same as was pre head change....!!!!
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It could be 1 or more of many things. Check all your vacuum hoses and rubber boots on the inlet for air leaks. Check the throttle closes fully every time, and that the microswitch operates correctly. Check the wiring to the switch, as well as the isv. Clean the isv with petrol/carb clener,spray carb cleaner round your injector seals with it running to see if they're leaking. Test all 3 head sensors with an ohm-meter at various temps and replace if necessary,check the wires to these sensors for breaks/fatigue. Check the overrun valve for function/ air leaks on the pipe it goes to.. Any tech info on what you should see on what wires can be found in the haynes, or on here I'm sure if they've been covered before, also do a search on here you'll find tonnes of info
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Oh yeah also if all that checks out, do a fuel pressure test, set the wur up, and get the co checked at a garage. If its v rich it may hunt, mine does badly on the warming up stage, when warm ticks over lovely, its because of the dodgy wur/wur settings on mine that I get a rough idle
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firstly thank you for helping,
just want to further clarify that most of daytime driving it runs fine, its mainly night driving when i switch on the lights and have heater running that i get the idling problems, when im stationary at a traffic lights thats when its really noticable....
ive connected a multimeter to both battery and alternator, they both seem to be running ok at +14volts, although i have had a few warm starting issues (maybe a faulty battery??)....
should i still be checking the things you mentioned earlier or could it be something else?
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Warm start probs could be leaking injectors possibly..if the car sometimes idles spot on then it would seem nothings broken, maybe jus needs adjustment..I'd still be tempted to get the fuel pressures checked and the co done at a garage, and test the wur with an ohm meter across the terminals to see if its broken down inside.. There's a guy on here called rj who will prob also have some good input when he comes along....
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http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=156881.msg1550013#msg1550013
There is a spare plug on a green wire coming out of the ISV controller. It should not be connected to anything. On mine, it was connected to a spare plug coming out of the fusebox used for interior accessory illumination, meaning that the idle was messed up with the lights turned on.
Disconnecting it solved the problem.
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chek the idle switch clicks when the throttle is closed, and the wiring to it is ok. if thats fine, look at the 3 sensors on the side of the head, make sure wires are all good there. swap them round if they look ok, there should be 3 small black colar sensors which are all the same rating
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@rubjonny - hi, im looking to replace the 3 senders on side of head, dont suppose you know the part number(s)... also theres a sender on the rear of head, again, what would the part number be?
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049 919 501 - Temp Sender - 1 Pin Black
but please wait for RJ to confirm
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thats the one, or some are 027 919 501 but its the same one. the sensor on the back is mfa oil temp sensor, so as long as that works leave it alone :)
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ok cheers, will give it a go this weekend and will let you know outcome....
any idea how much vw charge for the senders?
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ok cheers, will give it a go this weekend and will let you know outcome....
any idea how much vw charge for the senders?
nearly 30 quid each if iirc :sad:
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Get them from vwspares.co.uk. Bout 3 quid each and they work spot on. I've got em and they're all good
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I had the same trouble here
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=160322.msg1478476#msg1478476
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yep, went to vw yesterday and they quoted me 35 quid!!! thats extortionate!!!
the bloke at the counter pissed me off too - must've called him while he was on break.... oh well, gutted!!
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Does no1 listen to the advice that they ask/get from people??! BUY THEM FROM VWSPARES.C0.UK THEY ARE ONLY 3QUID EACH!!!!
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Does no1 listen to the advice that they ask/get from people??! BUY THEM FROM VWSPARES.C0.UK THEY ARE ONLY 3QUID EACH!!!!
Welcome to the advice world!
Some people prefer VAG, upto them really I would buy VAG all the time when money is good!
TPS might be cheaper on gen items than dealerships? But if a member has said the ones from VWspares work well then don't see why not, after all £3 if they fail is a cheap lesson if they fail after a few months? :smiley:
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Ha I guess I went a bit ott. But honestly they're alrite from there!
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dont be silly, 35 quid 3 times over isnt justified to buy genuine, ordered the senders from vwspares yesterday, and arrived this morning, so will let you know how it goes...
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hi,
could do with more help guys..... my car has also lately developed a cold start issue, when starting the engine from cold the engine cuts out and wont idle, its only when you hold on to accelerator pedal for 5-10mins and allow the engine to warm up that the car maintains idle..... could the warmup regulator be on its way out??
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It could be. Check the resistance across the wur terminals to see if the heater strip works, that speeds up the coming off choke process,if that's ok, (20-26 ohms) then the fuel pressure may need adjusting on the wur and system.. However, it could be the brown thermotime switch on the head not working, which won't enrich the fuel through the cold start valve. Also check the cold start works, when cold only, and for a short amount of time. Hence thermo-time.. It could be these things,if its purely a choke starting problem I'd say its wur/fuel pressures, however if the car is running like crap in general go through everything like isv, air leaks, injector flow and pattern,overrun valve holding open/air leaking,three head sensors, throttle switch and fully closing throttle, etc etc etc
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right, had a little success today :smiley:........ my first suspicions were the wur was faulty, but did a test and it gave a reading of 23ohms, so think thats ok. was also gona test the thermo time switch as stated in haynes manual but didnt get round to it, hopefully next week now...
i did however replace all three temp senders on side of head, even crimped on new blade connectors and..... she fired up straight away and held idle!!!
one thing i did notice with the old senders was the very front sender of the three (top left sender when looking from side of head) had a different part number to the other two, it read 049 919 563A - which is a 180degrees oil temp sender white collar, while the other two are 049 919 501 - 125degrees black collar. my question is have i done it wrong by replacing all three with the same part number, or should that oil temp sender have not been there?????
as for the idling, it does still fluctuate, but think ive tracked down whats causing it.. think theres an air leak in the joint between the overun cut off valve and the inlet suction pipe. theres a very short piece of union hose holding both components together, its only 20mm long, only just holding them together - its a very loose fit and it takes very little effort to pull out of position, and it definitely leaks air!!!!
what i had in mind was to buy a longer piece of silicone hose and jubilee clip both ends on. what do you reckon???
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just out of interest what would happen if the wur wasnt conected i,e wires broken so no circuit? only reason i ask is mines broken off at the plug with no way to open it up. just wondering if it will do any damage driving it like this while is get a plug from a scrapyard and join wires further back
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Yeah that piece of over run pipe isn't too good is it.. I managed to get a 2nd jubilee on mine, but I'm gonna swap it for a longer bit of hose with a better join both ends.. The 3 black sensors off vwspares will do fine.for now you could put the yellow/red wire on the white collar sensor, your water temp gauge will be unaccurate, but the other two idle wires will at least be on the right sensorsand it may improve the running for now.. The wur terminals are only for the heater element, so that may work, but the fuel pressures themselves may need adjusting, that heater jus makes it come off choke on time...
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yeah that white sensor is the wrong one, they should all be black collar ones. the white sensor is for the mfa, different rating to the black sensors.
driving with wur off wont really do much, it will get heated up by the engine anyway. only difference is it might run a little too rich for too long while the engine warms up
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suppose id better get measuring in the morning what hose size is needed and get ordering - before i go work....
also plan to order up a new viton o-ring seal for the idle screw, because any adjustments makes no difference..
dont suppose any of you guys know what dimensions the o-ring needs to be??
am i right in saying vw wont stock the o-ring on its own, in which case i have in mind to buy from a seals manufacturer.
oh - and i hate going to my local vw dealer, if i havent a part number i could be sat there for ages trying to locate the part im after, a bunch of unknowledgable twits!!
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they dont sell the oring but you can get the idle screw complete with seal, but it'll cost ya 6 quid+VAT!
for mine i just had a big box full of o'rings bought off ebay, had a suitable seal in there
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Yeah as rj says, a universal o ring set will have 1 with the right inner and outer dimension unlike some o ringswhich are a bit more specialist like injector seals etc.. I'm gonna look in my old coolant pipe pile for a bit of suitable overrun pipe and bash that on..
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before i start thinking about getting wur/fuel pressure tested, i decided today to get fuel emissions test done at my local mot station. the CO and HC levels are as follows:
CO Level: 2.29%(Actual) - 3.5%(Max)
HC Level: 126ppm(Actual) - 1200ppm(Max)
My car was running a little rich before (over 3%).... but are the values 2.29% and 126ppm okay?? if not, whats the ideal setting??
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generally they like around 1.8%
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hello RJ,
so is 2.29% okay or should i take my car back to MOT station and have it nearer 1.8%
what about the HC level, whats the optimal setting for that?
cheers.
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if it drives ok probably not worth the bother, just ask em to tweak it down at the next mot or something