GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Chris Green on 23 February 2005, 13:01
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Hello Again,
A couple more questions.
1. My car is a 1986 8v. What gearbox is this likely to have? looking here http://www.scirocco.org/gears/ it looks like it will probably be one of these - 4Y, 9A, ACD, AEN (8v Close Ratio).
Looking at the gear speeds on that site, I have calculated that my car would do 57mph in second at 6k revs at the moment, but if I fitted a 16v box, I'd be doing 52 mph, thus increasing the accelleration.
Are 16v boxes available?
2. seat repairs. My drivers side seat bolster has collapsed. It isn't very comfortable. I've heard it is possibly to repair them, but has anyone got a guide to doing this?
3. WUR mod. what does a WUR look like? I might be able to get one from an audi at a local scrap yard. Would it have to be a 16v model audi that I get one from? (so that it is adjustable).
4. Wheel refurbishment. I want to refurbish my wheels, as the laquer has peeled off in a fair few places. However, I am planning on doing this by hand, and not getting them powder coated. (unless someone could lend me some steels for a little while?).
What could I use to strip the laquer off the wheels?
5. my MFA doesn't work, I have an aftermarket stereo fitted, is that the probable cause?
That's about all for now!
Thanks a lot,
Chris.
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2. seat repairs. not easy or cheap to repair the bolster and the results always sh*te. the best way of repairing them is to find a matching passenger seat. remove the bottom part of both seats and swap them over.
essentially - passenger seats are always unworn ;)
4. try wet and dry.
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2. seat repairs. not easy or cheap to repair the bolster and the results always sh*te. the best way of repairing them is to find a matching passenger seat. remove the bottom part of both seats and swap them over.
essentially - passenger seats are always unworn ;)
4. try wet and dry.
2. If I swap the bottom part over, won't that put the recliner wheel on the wrong side? Also, the passenger seat doesn;t have a height adjuster? or is it possible to swap over the foam and fabric parts, and use the existing frame?
4. Wet and dry. Will give it a go.
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2) get leather, you know it make sense :cool:
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get leather? if I could afford it, I would. but I can't!
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1. don't know about htis one but would be interested to find out. they are available but are probably a bit worse for wear and in need of a re-furb.
2. just change the foam part, not the framework.
3. don't know what a WUR is!!
4. when i had my wheels refurbed i had them stripped and powder coated in a day, but the place was only about 10 mins away, as the powder is melted on its probably quicker to get them done like this that to try and get them done in this weather, unless you have access to an oven for curing paint. i had mine bead blasted but alternatively just sand them back, slooooow job depending on how bad they are and how much of a perfectionist you are.
5. probably not. MFA's normally stop working due to damaged curcuit tracks i believe.
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Cheers Joe.
I have access to two shot blasting / powdercoating ovens. one an alloy wheel specialist, and the other a fabricator / powdercoating co. I can get them shotblasted and coated for ?16 per wheel.
I would prefer to do the wheels myself though. I accept it will be a lot of effort though.
WUR = Warm Up Regulator.
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ahhh
yeah i tried to re-furb my bbs centres by hand and it was way too fiddley to get it looking anywhere near good so i took them down the road and got them done in a day whereas i'd spent ages getting annoyed with them before. i just thought that sometimes its easier and not that expensive to pay to have stuff done! cost me ?20 a wheel including the 2 piece centre caps. i'd probably spent ?20 on paint/primer and had little to show for it!
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My wheels are just the basic 8v alloys. Pretty flat surface, so it should be fairly easy to refurb them.
and one more question...
Brakes - I need new discs on the front of my car. Upgrading the discs and calipers to 16v spec is not an option, so I am looking at uprated discs and pads instead.
Where is the best place to get them from?
I've noticed on the Big boys toys website, there is a set of front vented and cross drilled discs for ?40. has anyone tried these?
Cheers,
Chris.
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i wouldnt bother changing to a 16v box to much hassle and not that much difference - and you'll need to change the clutch! the difference is only something like 9mph!!
also the 8v WUR cannot be modified
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I wasn't planning on fitting a 16v gearbox, (I can't afford one at the moment). It was ust hypothetical.
Also, I was planning on looking for a 16v WUR, so it could be modded.
First thing for me to do though, is the brakes. If anyone has any comments on the BBT and Volksbits discs that are about ?40? http://www.volksbits.com/shop/full.php?q=1069929783
my 8v will have 239mm Discs won't it?
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Could you explain the exact function of the WUR? Obviously it regulates the Warm up but a detailed description would really be appreciated. Also the location would be handy, In fact if I had that I could probably work the rest out.
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yeah your brakes will be 239mm.
i had ATE power discs on mine for a while and they were fine, nothing remarkable but were on special offer at euro car parts (www.eurocarparts.co.uk) but the zimmerman cross drilled ones german and swedish (gsfcarparts.co.uk) do seem to get the best feedback and aren't that expensive either. i'm always a bit sceptical of unbranded brake parts., they're probably fine but are a very important part of your car!!! oh and grooved will wear your pads out quicker.
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u say i would need to change the clutch if changin an 8v gearbox for a 16v, my second gear syncro hubs have gone n i have a 16v box, wot would i need to do in order to sort the clutch out?
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You would need to fit a clutch from a 16v, because the input shaft on the 16v gearbox is larger than the input shaft of the 8v box.
Cheers Joe, I will look into ATE and Zimmerman. I've never heard of either of these though! can anyone else recomend any discs? what about EBC greenstuff pads?
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no worries, greenstuff are meant to be good, as are pagid, which apparently work very well with the zimmerman's and are also available from german and swedish!! how lucky!!
at the moment i've got g60 brakes with brembo discs and pagid pads, but will probably go for zimmermans next. (plus the cross drilled looks cool!)
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ok, I can get standard discs and pads for ?27.
or, standard discs and Pagid fast road pads for ?44
or, standard discs and ebc greenstuff pads for ?48
or, I could buy bbt grooved and drilled discs and pagid fast road pads for ?70.
Zimmerman are out of my budget.
Can anyone tell me what the (BQ) means please?
62365 BRAKE DISC-VENT 239mm(BQ) G2 1.8 8V GTi 13.50
compared to
62366 BRAKE DISC-VENTED 239mm G2 16V 2/86 >12/88 7.95
and will I need a brake pad fitting kit? on previous cars, the locating clips etc came with the pads?
Cheers,
Chris.
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every time i have brought disc/pads they have come with all fixings thats either vag or brembo tho dunno about others. dont forget copper grease to or they will squeal like a bastard
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I also need to replace the strut top mounts.
Can anyone tell me the difference between these two please? what is included in the "kit"?
GSF
45735 STRUT TOP MOUNTING-BQ? G2 (Not G60) 8/83 >7/92? 9.85? Add?
45735K STRUT TOP MOUNTING KIT? G2 (Not G60) 8/83 >7/92? 11.75? Add
If the kit isn't required, then I will get this one from VW Spares. (http://www.vwspares.co.uk/g2suspension.html)
Front Top Mount 1.0-1.8 inc GTi & 16v Febi 07559 ?7.30 ea
Thank you!
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and another question....
as I said before, my MFA doesn't work. Is it possible to get this fixed? or would it be very expensive? I could do with a clock or something on the dash.
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what doesent work on the mfa?
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the screen is completely blank. all the time.
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fuse? fagot what num it is but it says on the pannel,
it poped on mine once n went blank
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cool. would be nice if that is all it is. I'll check it later.
Sorry for being a bit dull, but where is the fuse box on a mk2? :undecided:
Cheers!
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have a swatch under steering wheel on right hand side :tongue: