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General => The garage => Topic started by: the_stink on 18 January 2011, 10:18
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Anyone give me a few suggestions just seen a few things to get rid of the gunk and crap before you do a oil change
its a 20yr old MKii 150k on the clock :smiley:
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I've seen a post (on another forum) that suggests removing the drain plug and leaving it overnight for all the sludge to slide down the sump.
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http://www.forteuk.co.uk/product.php?id=43/Advanced_Formula_Motor_Flush
(https://www.forteuk.co.uk/ForteAdmin/Product_IMAGE/original_43_advanced_formula_motor_flush.png)
I use that.
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Have used the coma stuff to good effect. Depends on the condition of your engine though - so i've heard - if old and gunked up the gunk might be keeping the oil seals working - so you may cause yourself issues.
James
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best way to clean and engine and keep an engine clean is clean oil.
I find a reasonable 10/40 w fleet oil ( useing ac delco atm ) and just keep it regualy changed. instead of oil and filter every 10K do an extra oil change at 5k as well. enigne will love you for that.
i stripped enough enignes that have had various oil flushes through them before stripping them, and enough that havent. there is no obvious differance when you take them apart.
IMO if it's got a bit of light sludge fresh oil will clean it out, heavy sludge don't come out without you takeing the motor apart and cleaning it.
the other thing is tho that as enignes go the vw 8 and 16v enigne's that i've striped and rebuilt have actauly all been relativly clean inside.
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best way to clean and engine and keep an engine clean is clean oil.
I find a reasonable 10/40 w fleet oil ( useing ac delco atm ) and just keep it regualy changed. instead of oil and filter every 10K do an extra oil change at 5k as well. enigne will love you for that.
i stripped enough enignes that have had various oil flushes through them before stripping them, and enough that havent. there is no obvious differance when you take them apart.
IMO if it's got a bit of light sludge fresh oil will clean it out, heavy sludge don't come out without you takeing the motor apart and cleaning it.
the other thing is tho that as enignes go the vw 8 and 16v enigne's that i've striped and rebuilt have actauly all been relativly clean inside.
cheers danny, yeha in the opi oil thred was advised to drain the old oil first, then put some cheap stuff in initally to then clear any gunk etc out, drain that out then put the good stuff in!
but i do plan on doing regular 5/6k oil changes
Was looking throught the SH last night and before i bought the car was told the car had been in storage for 3 yrs before the last owner had it, so last service was 2007!!!
So keen to get this done along with everything else to make her run a bit smoother, saying that starts first time everytime
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best way to clean and engine and keep an engine clean is clean oil.
I find a reasonable 10/40 w fleet oil ( useing ac delco atm ) and just keep it regualy changed. instead of oil and filter every 10K do an extra oil change at 5k as well. enigne will love you for that.
i stripped enough enignes that have had various oil flushes through them before stripping them, and enough that havent. there is no obvious differance when you take them apart.
IMO if it's got a bit of light sludge fresh oil will clean it out, heavy sludge don't come out without you takeing the motor apart and cleaning it.
the other thing is tho that as enignes go the vw 8 and 16v enigne's that i've striped and rebuilt have actauly all been relativly clean inside.
Out of interest Danny, what is you opinion on using ATF as a flushing agent?
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erk that turned into a long wittering post hope it makes sense to all those that can be arsed to read it
did an experiment with a nasty old v8 heres a quick write up
i flushed a sick 3.5 v8 after putting clean multigrade 20-50 mineral oil in and ran it @ 2000 rpm for 15 mins to get hot, the oil had allready gone really black. added 2 cans of forte engine flush and let it run for another 15 mins for the first 10 mins it smoked LOTS. i then droped the oil then added a few more ltrs and let it come straight out the drain just to push any remaing crud out. then changed the filter and refilled it with 20-50 and let it run for another 15 mins the oil had gone really black again.
on lifting the rocker covers the tops of the heads looked no diffent to the usual dead v8 i then draned the sump again to have a look and practicaly everythign was coverd with heavy deposits. so put it back together with another filter and filled it with neat ATF and drove it about for 2 days. the engine then developed oil pressure problems. on removal the oil filter was heavy and when sliced open looked inpressivly full, witht the sump off it looked a bit cleaner but the pickup was blocked, on the plus side the engine was running quiter before it developed oil pressure probelms but under the rocker covers looked diffrent.
engine was then removed and the 4.2 that had been sitting there all allong was fitted :smiley:
my conclusions are as follows
so my opinion is oil flushes are not that effective ( and expensive ) you may as well flush with clean oil and just change it more often, 5ltrs of oil + a £10 flush every 10k or 5 ltrs of oil every 5K = same cost i'll go with the oil
as for the ATF it's a high detergent clean oil and imo works better than any of the flushes and faster than clean enigne oil tho wouldn't recomend putting more than 1ltr of it in your enigne oil. ATF flushing is good for solveng problems comeing from internal oilways like loud tappets. but it dosent work miracles. if an engine is internaly coverd in thick layers of backed on gunk ( rover v8's favoret trick ) theer is no practical way to shift it other than takeing it apart. ATF will shift some of it but the sheer volume of gunk in some engine may overcome the filters makeing it a kill or cure
where there is a good strong flow of hot oil the detergents in ATF will move gunk internaly so for oil ways and tappets ect it's a good thing. but i would not recomend useing it as a preventaive measure regular oil changes are for that. as fresh oil will clean oilways as well.
for enignes that are completly caked is thick black gunk are pritty much doomed
8 and 16v engines thankfully don't actualy suffer horendous levels of gunk ( the breathers can look bad but compared to some engines thats nothing ) if they have good oil pressure but are tappety on the top end ATF is all good as it's unlikey to find quantites of gunk that are going to cause problems for the pickup and filter.
20v's dnt far so well but thats because of the stupid service intervals on longlife motors the first symtom with thes being low pressure due to blocked pickups means flushing is unwise and it's far better to clean out the sump and pickup then oil flush with ATF
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very nice write up there danny :)
on my old 1.8 8v i tried the atf trick and it was great, except it cleaned out all the gunk holding my 160k oil cooler together. no fault of the ATF though, it was just its time to go! did the same in my 2.0 8v and it had no problems at all. its a well known trick, i first heard it around 7 years ago from TSC on clubgti (makes me feel old that does)
so boiled down it will clean it all up nice, but be aware all that crud has to go somewhere! other thing is dont bother if its not needed. if your engine doesnt rattle at the top end and pressures all seem ok, just keep up with the regular oil servicing and you should be sorted. I havent bothered in my ABF as it runs faultlessly and sounds nice and quiet, even the breathers aint that bad
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Cheers again for the replies guys
Think ill just stick with the multigrade 20-50 mineral oil method and see how that goes.
The car at the moment runs fine and as said starts first time everytime regards less of the weather, but its about time it had a proper service to make sure it stays that way! should be interesting to see what comes out!!
Just need to find a decent container to collect all the oil in so I can dispose of it properly sounds like i may need a few!!
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20-50w mineral you are a nasty nasty nasty person
10-40w is what you should be useing 20-50 is to thick when it's cold
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Personally I use up about a litre of new oil after the old oil is drained out. Once there is no more old oil to come out from the sump, I put back the nut hand tight then pour in another litre and fire the engine up for 40 seconds. Some people think its crazy to start it up without much oil, but the funny thing is there is alot of old oil still in the block, and the thicker gunked oil stays in the upper rocker. Once you undo the sump nut you will be surprised how much oil has sunk back into the sump.
After that I still add another 500ml of oil until the sump runs clear and I know its clean.
I've done this for about 13 odd years after seeing an old boy do it, and I've never had any engine I've owned suffer from this.
Plus any cars that have paper oil filters when you drain the oil let as much pressure out helping the old oil make its way down, like removing the oil filler cap and oil filter housing lids!
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20-50w mineral you are a nasty nasty nasty person
10-40w is what you should be useing 20-50 is to thick when it's cold
will only be using that for the purpose of the flush as you mentioned got a nice 5 litres of the good stuff in my room along with everythign else for the service
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we'll let you off then
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Nice write up lads!!
My 8v is tappety, but also smokes quite alot.
Would this flush be worth a try on mine or not?
I know it doesn't work miracles but worth a shot?
Especially as I'm stuck with a round inlet manifold bolt that I can't get out :(
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don't even think about putting oil flush in it if it smokes. espectaly ATF
smoke is most likely becasue the valve stem seals are shot removeing crud from the is likly to induce more smoke, change valve stem seals then atf flush it
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Right, thought so!!
Need to read up and get it sorted then!!
Need to get that rogue bolt out lol
Cheers mate, was gonna do that!
Glad i asked someone with experience!!
Cheers mate!