GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: jimmyhodge on 11 January 2011, 14:31
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Ok to the knowledgable ferternity out there does a mk3 golf 2.0 8v block (bottom end) fit onto mk2 1.8 gti head? Is it the same casting? Obviously pistons will be different etc etc. I just want to know if the bolts will match up etc etc. :smiley:
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Mk3 2.0 bottom end works best with the mk2 pb head, it flows better than the mk3 one. It is a direct fit so no problems there. Also any engine will fit with a mix of parts and an angle grinder/welder!!
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Mk3 2.0 bottom end works best with the mk2 pb head, it flows better than the mk3 one. It is a direct fit so no problems there. Also any engine will fit with a mix of parts and an angle grinder/welder!!
I have this set up works fine and dandy, feels like a more punchy engine :wink:
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I had one too, I am planning on doing it to my current one. Combined with a ported, polished gas flowed head, it makes for a powerful engine. Mine used to pull like a train.
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So are both the 8v and 16v abf mk3 bottom ends the same? Rod lengths etc etc? :smiley:
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No, they are different beasts. The mk3 8v bottom end, pistons and all, can be bolted up to your mk2 head, but not a 16v ABF bottom. The ABF code is for the mk3 16v engine only, there are various codes for the mk3 8v engine, the minor adjustments for fitting one in to a mk2 vary slightly depending on exactly what code of engine you use.
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sorry to be a pain.. why would you choose to keep it 8v over going 16v for not much more effort ??
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Just ABF it, mk3 16v block head, loom and ecu it all just bolts up and plugs in anyway
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Hi
So if I fit a MK3 8v bottom to my Digifant will it need a remap/chip or does the system have enough room to adapt?
Many tks.... Berni
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It'll live.
Crossflow 8V head is a further upgrade over those mentioned already and facilitates the fitment of ITBs should you wish to go properly mental in an 8V.
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Sorry I wasn't very clear. I'm toying with the idea of building my engine into a 2.1 litre torque hungry beast! I have a mk2 1.8 kr 16v engine complete with Kent cams and ported and polished head. I have a mate who's trying to flog me a abf cylinder already bored out to make a 2.1 litre engine. He told me all I needed was an abf bottom end,crank etc etc and the kr head would bolt straight up to the abf bottom end and work perfectly. I just wanted to make sure this was the case as I don't want to go ahead buy the cylinder off him get hold of a abf bottom end and then find it doesn't fit!
Since posting on here i've had a conversation with a very knowledgable guy who confirmed what some of you are saying on here and he said a 16v kr head will bolt up to a abf 16v bottom end. :smiley:
So will be searching ebay high and low for a abf 16v bottom end... :wink:
Also to those of you who are interested I'm running these on my mk2 kr 1.8 gti at the moment
(http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/8725/throttlebodies2.jpg) (http://img221.imageshack.us/i/throttlebodies2.jpg/)
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Are they carbs or ITBs?
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ITB'S :smiley:
Came off a MV Agusta though :cool:
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Sorry I wasn't very clear. I'm toying with the idea of building my engine into a 2.1 litre torque hungry beast! I have a mk2 1.8 kr 16v engine complete with Kent cams and ported and polished head. I have a mate who's trying to flog me a abf cylinder already bored out to make a 2.1 litre engine. He told me all I needed was an abf bottom end,crank etc etc and the kr head would bolt straight up to the abf bottom end and work perfectly. I just wanted to make sure this was the case as I don't want to go ahead buy the cylinder off him get hold of a abf bottom end and then find it doesn't fit!
I am confused, do you mean cylinder block if so it cannot be bored to 2.1 you need a longer stroke crank to achieve that.
You need to find out what it has been bored to I would guess 83mm.
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Right my mate is selling a abf 16v 2.0 litre cylinder bored out to 2.1... Or so he tells me! I'll find out the bore dimension and let you know... Are you on about a stroker crank...? :smiley:
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Right my mate is selling a abf 16v 2.0 litre cylinder bored out to 2.1... Or so he tells me! I'll find out the bore dimension and let you know... Are you on about a stroker crank...? :smiley:
Yes you would need a stroker crank, It cannot be bored to 2.1, have seen 8v 2.1 built with a 1.9 diesel crank that needs mods to fit and work all ok including major work on the block to get clearance, not 100% sure if that will work on a 16v.
When I worked for a well known VW tuning company, we built a 2.1 8v it was very torquey but not that rev happy so cannot see it being much good as a 16v.
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why were you asking about 8 valve engines then ??
to go to 2.1 ltrs you need bore out and fit 95.5mm cranckshaft out of a diesel, anyway it dosent work out a 2.1 it 2043cc from memory.
you loose more than you gain, your makeing a long stroke engine even longer stroke. you'll gain a bit of peack torque but not any power as it means max safe rpm is quite a bit lower unless you spend money on fancy rods and pistons. and even then it dosent make for an eager engine to rev.
if you want to go fast you've got to get them to rev, balance it fit ARP bolts and enjoy crashing into a limiter around 7600 all day long. or fit some forged pistons and rods and take it to 8500 but remove the trigger wheel from the cranck as they will go through the block at somewhere between 8 and 9k rpm after a while
if you want a wall of torque fit a PD 130 or 150
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Sorry I only mentions a 8v abf because there is one on ebay at the moment... Sorry to confuse! :laugh:
Ok so its probably more likely to be a 2043cc as stated... I want a rev happy engine as I'm running the TB's and by all accounts they work great higher up in the rev range.
Whats your advise then keep it a 1.8 and balance it and fit ARP bolts? Plan was to run high comp forged Wossner pistons anyway and forged rods to match as I understand they don't last very long on original rods and pistons...
Or make it a 2.0l still using ABF bottom end...?
Sorry to sound stupid but PD 130 OR 150...? :huh: You lost me.
Also I have heard about the trigger wheel making a break for freedom out the cases at higher revs before! :grin:
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To be honest a std 1.8 or 2.0 bottom end would be fine, get it balanced but I don't see the need for forged rods or arp bolts unless your planning to turbo it, also worth looking at a lightened flywheel.
PD130 or 150 is the later TDI lumps.
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Next stupid question i've looked into getting the flywheel + crank balanced and lightened but google hasn't brought up any companies that offer it. Surely this can't be the case! (Im probably not looking in the right place!)
Anyone enlighten me on who offers this service and point me in the right direction? :smiley:
Anyone recommend someone they ahve used previously and had good results? :cool:
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Next stupid question i've looked into getting the flywheel + crank balanced and lightened but google hasn't brought up any companies that offer it. Surely this can't be the case! (Im probably not looking in the right place!)
Anyone enlighten me on who offers this service and point me in the right direction? :smiley:
Anyone recommend someone they have used previously and had good results? :cool:
Whereabouts are you based.
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Taunton,Somerset
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I feel supid for asking now! We use Hamlins for our special motorcycle cylinder (non standard) They are very very good! Had good experiances with them too...
Oh right,you ever headed down to the sw dubs meet? Where ya based?
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forged internals are dependant on the revs you want to run. ARP bolts are essential tho for a cammed ITB'ed motor.
out of intrest what duration are the cams, if they are wild higer compression forged pistons help quite a lot.
you just missed me selling of a sh!t load of high cr pistons and lightend balanced bits
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forged internals are dependant on the revs you want to run. ARP bolts are essential tho for a cammed ITB'ed motor.
out of intrest what duration are the cams, if they are wild higer compression forged pistons help quite a lot.
you just missed me selling of a sh!t load of high cr pistons and lightend balanced bits
Don't say that...! :laugh: I woulda bitten your hand off for them! I'll be completly honest I bought this engine and didn't even realise they had performance cams in untill I gutted it! Any way of measuring the lift? etc etc
Plan was to run ARP bolts no matter what i'm just contemplating what to do with the crankshaft and flywheel,wether to get it machined/lightened and balanced or leave it as it is. The way I understand it is if i get the crank machined and balanced won't I lose torque? Same with the flywheel won't I lose the torque ?
I'll probably end up using forged rods and pistons anyway as it seems stupid to gutt the whole engine and not fit new pistons and rods. Anyone got any recommendations? I don't have much experiance with what works best but gives abit of reliability... :cool: