GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: golfmk4owner on 07 January 2011, 11:13
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Hi guys, my 16v has a very rich smelling mixture, and my mechanic pointed out that the mixture adjustment screw is actually gone!
I really need this as you can imagine, and cant just go and buy one, does anybody have any ideas?
Or is there anybody with any spare metering heads (mk2 2 16v KR code) that i could buy?
Im stressing about this :cry:
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Ok guys no replies so can somebody tell me if this screw is the same as the mk1? Because there are some on mk1 metering heads on ebay! cheers
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MKI's were all 8v and the metering heads are different although they might have the same adjustment screw. Your engine is a KR which was also fitted to 1.8 16v corrados, 1.8 16v B3 Passats those could be other avenues for sourcing a replacement. Have you tried a Bosch injection specialist or even VW for a replacement?
nick
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I have 2 spare screws from 1.8 8v's not sure if there the same, but your welcome to them.
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Is it definitely gone? Do you/your mechanic know that it's quite deep within the metering head so you need a reasonably long hex key?
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Yer was gonna say, you cant just look at it and say its gone, its almost impossible to see. It does just look like an empty hole
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Ah, hmm. Well he could be mistaken in that case, but tell me if these pics look right cos theres two hole, and i would like to know what each one is for
Hole 1 (which i think is the CO adjustment)
(http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/5131/img0541qz.jpg) (http://img17.imageshack.us/i/img0541qz.jpg/)
And hole 2, which is just behind it:
(http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/5108/img0540n.jpg) (http://img211.imageshack.us/i/img0540n.jpg/)
Thanks so far guys!!
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Also, when it comes to adjusting the CO, can anybody remember which way leans and which way richens? thanks
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http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=22031.0
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Nice thread! But now another dillema... that guide says that 16v's run best at 2%, which my mechanic said it was when he tested it!
So any ideas why it smells sooo rich and smokes white at idle? I know everyone will say head gasket but the water / oil are both fine. Theres no blue smoke, just white smoke, and its worst at idle and eases off when driving. It isnt just condensation neither!
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just because oil and water are fine doesnt mean its not a slight head gasket problem.. have you compression tested ??
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My 16v steams away on idle, even when hot.. Its just had a headgasket because it went between 2 cylinders, it did it before and it still does it. Will be doing wur/fuelling check soon, its not far off though cos it idles so smooth and quiet, and goes pretty well-but smells v rich. not expectin much of a change after..
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could it not just be because its an old car and well used parts ?? like many parts more than just one part ??
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Anti clockwise to lessen the mixture and clockwise to increase the mixture the first picture is the place to adjust the mixture and the second is a fixing hole, mine also had white smoke and was seeming to be running rich but I found one of my injectors wasnt spraying so fuel was pouring in, smell your oil to see if it stinks of fuel,.. also if any of your injectors are shaged I have some spare think there from the 16v, pm me if you need any.
Good luck.
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very relevant point there Jarvis! pm'd you :)
And guys i understand its an old car etc, but put it this way if it was in a traffic jam the car behind wouldnt see, and certainly wouldnt breathe for long lol
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could be valve stem seals mine was the same ok driving but smokey in traffic changed seals problem solved
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was the valve seals difficult to do mate?
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White smoke is not oil being burnt that is blue.
Can suggest hg issue but not always.
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White smoke is not oil being burnt that is blue.
when i had similar problem i got the same advice blue smoke if burning oil.But to be honest it was more white with small tinge of blue.symptoms where if driving car no problem stuck in traffic lots of white/blue smoke changed valve stem seals sorted.there is plenty of advice on this forum of how its done and i would recommend taking the head off lot easy
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Mine lets out a big cloud of blue now and then, but thats purely because the turbo needs a re-build
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Well ive done some searching about testing the injectors, but is there any way of testing them one at a time, without rigging up that whole system?
I dont think id know what i was doing with the relay and all of that milarki?
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dont hold me to it but I think you can remove the injectors and put in bottles, lift the air plate and start the car, they should start spraying but the engine will try and spark so be carful also would help if two people did it as one can turn the key and the other to look at the spray, again im not 100%.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSLcEwdX3ns
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Cool, so actually turn the key to try and start it? Wont the starter motor turn the engine, cos in this vid theres no engine noise just injectors working?
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Hi
The injection is mechanical. no need to turn the key, just lift the saucer.
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Well ive done some searching about testing the injectors, but is there any way of testing them one at a time, without rigging up that whole system?
I dont think id know what i was doing with the relay and all of that milarki?
Pull the coil lead so it will not start, pick up a glass jar / tube, and one at a time get a friend to hold it in the glass jar / tube.
Next step is to lift the air flap for a max of 10 to 15 secs, then mark the fuel in the jar / tube, do the other 3 and see if they are around the same or you may find one is really low.
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aah right so its all controlled of the diaphram. Excellent advice guys. So battery still on, coil lead off the pack so no sparks, injectors out in glass jars, lift diaphram and observe?
I appreciate your advice guys its good to learn :tongue:
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Hi
The injection is mechanical. no need to turn the key, just lift the saucer.
every day's a school day.
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aah right so its all controlled of the diaphram. Excellent advice guys. So battery still on, coil lead off the pack so no sparks, injectors out in glass jars, lift diaphram and observe?
I appreciate your advice guys its good to learn :tongue:
You will still need to bridge the terminals on the fuel pump relay so the pump will run.
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ah right i dont know how to bridge the terminals??
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ah right i dont know how to bridge the terminals??
Some conducting metal stuff
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ah right i dont know how to bridge the terminals??
Some conducting metal stuff
Or a small link wire with flat terminals on the end.