GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: Overseer on 18 February 2005, 10:08
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I really think it'd be worthwhile pitching in to make a FAQ (frequently asked questions) for this section..
like a troubleshooting guide of things to check...
a lot of people seem to be blindly changing expensive components only to find they don't cure the problem so I think it'd help those plagued by these annoying problems if you put all all your experience together.
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Yea the relays one for a start!
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lets start in here then... which relays can sometuimes help cure what symptoms?
well maybe we should do a? major failures faq as well :grin:
well yeah they can problem be intermixed with this other stuff.. they're easier to document..
thus far i have experience of..
1) dodgy solenoid contacts? ?- car wouldnt start, starter didnt even try turn over engine. solution
2) coil dying. died while driving.. iirc the solenoid would click but the car wouldnt go, and wouldnt bump. solution:? new coil
3) starter going... iirc the solenoid would click but the car wouldnt go, and _would_ bump.? solution: new starter
4) a dodgy servo vacuum hose..? not really a failure that'll stop the car going. more dangerous as it affects it stopping. as? with any vacuum leak it stops the car idling properly.?
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i think this is a brilliant idea:
1. i had a broken map sensor hose(manifold pressure sensor hose) on my 16v produced symptoms similar to a lot of misfiring problems others are having. this is the hose that runs from the throttle body to the ecu.
2. complete starter failure, when removed was in 30 peices, this also dragged electrical power from the car: therefore horsepower
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just remembered 2 more minor ones.
1.. erratic idling.. cleaning out the ISV (Idle Stablisation valve) helped. if this is shot it can need replacing. very easy to do, but if its knackered the part can cost upwards of ?250.
2.. uumm.. bodged car? lol.. someone had bodged a hose connection that comes out from under the ISV (from middle of the manifold on a 16v) the hose just tied off, it was meant to feed under and into the box directly to the left of where it comes out (cant remember what this is)
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the relays are numbered 30 & 167
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ok.. and which one is related to what symptom?
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Only problem im having now is when i go to the garage or after a short run the damn thing wont start most embarrasing with the stealership next door..cant decide if its the immobilizer playing up been on the vag-com and it shows no problems and not being mechanically minded i might just get mi hammer out.. :shocked: :grin: :grin:
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^ uh we're talkin about solutions here ;)
sounds like a lectical thing tho.. what gets it goin again?
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^ uh we're talkin about solutions here ;)
sounds like a lectical thing tho.. what gets it goin again?
:smiley: Only thing that get it going again is to leave it standing for 5 mins.. :shocked: :undecided:
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i've heard that problem before.. sure its been posted.. do a search.. or wait for someone to say how they fixed :)
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has it been on vag-com during problem, typical symptoms of coil in most cars, dont know about vw as it has not happened to me YET!!
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Here is a scan of the 'quick fix' guide they printed in Performance VW May '04
http://www.rollinondubs.net/overseer/Golf%20GTI%2016v/PVW_MK3_Fixes.jpg
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HEre is a new one I have properly sorted my stuttering and rough idle.
Discovered a week or so ago unplugging the MAF made the car run fine although cut out on idle.
I removed the 'hotwires' from the maf and discovered they were caked in crap. a little dribble of petrol and a cotton bud later they are looking like new. Put them back in, the car chugged for 30 seconds then smoothed out. It now runs absolutely perfect.
So there was no needs for 2 x diagnostics, coil, relays, ECU reset, Lambda sensor, HT's Plugs, dizzy, rotor arm, injector cleaned, throttle body cleaning and probably loads of other stuff I have forgot!!
Might not work for everyone but at least give it a go before replacing things.
Going to putthe car up for sale now so whoever gets it will never have any electrical probs, ive replaced more or less the whole lot!!!!!!
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alright bofins sounds a good idea. will scout through pvw for any mk3 solutions to problems. But while I am here does anyone know, which sensor is knakered on my gti 8 V that is making my thermostat light flash constantly. cheers
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Here is a scan of the 'quick fix' guide they printed in Performance VW May '04
http://www.rollinondubs.net/overseer/Golf%20GTI%2016v/PVW_MK3_Fixes.jpg
:smiley: WELL DONE THANKS for the idea. I managed to work this out myself. Have just cleaned out TVB the butterfly part/the breathing pipes from the sump/the onefrom the cam cover. They were not too bad/but had the usuall build up on them. Me thinks that as quoted. "the throttle positioner/potentiometer.does not see the valve closed or closed correctly and stalls the motor. The pipes being choked or holed, upsets what should be the idle mixture. thence stall again on approach to idle. ALL IS WELL with my car..do drop me a note if you can not make out what i mean. Pete.
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k here's one
I have a mk2 what the best way to sell it and get a decent car like a mk3? :evil:
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or the best way to get rid of a mod with too much time on his hands.
This is war!! :evil:
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Which Mod has got Too Much time on HER hands!????? :tongue:
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just remembered 2 more minor ones.
1.. erratic idling.. cleaning out the ISV (Idle Stablisation valve) helped. if this is shot it can need replacing. very easy to do, but if its knackered the part can cost upwards of ?250.
2.. uumm.. bodged car? lol.. someone had bodged a hose connection that comes out from under the ISV (from middle of the manifold on a 16v) the hose just tied off, it was meant to feed under and into the box directly to the left of where it comes out (cant remember what this is)
Hi Overseer,
I think i have the problem you describe in number 1, where can i find this valve exactly ? cheers
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on a 16v its at the very front of the engine on the top of the front of the manifold underneath the molding that guides the leads to the plugs
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on a 16v its at the very front of the engine on the top of the front of the manifold underneath the molding that guides the leads to the plugs
Cheers for the info on this, will check this out later :smiley:
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Only problem im having now is when i go to the garage or after a short run the damn thing wont start most embarrasing with the stealership next door..cant decide if its the immobilizer playing up been on the vag-com and it shows no problems and not being mechanically minded i might just get mi hammer out.. :shocked: :grin: :grin:
Could be your starter motor mate, once had a Ford that did that n after much swearing and pennies spent it turned out to be the starter draining all the power just to turn it over not leaving enough to fire the ht coil into life.
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:cry:
Got a really annoying oil leak, can anyone suggest where it might be coming from please? see my previous post regarding this. Cheers
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Oil leak sorted, it was the oil pump seal leaking.. car now for sale :smiley:
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ive got a slight problem with my 93 k plate the fact is simple the central locking has just packed up. First of all it worked fine then it developed into being a bit tempremental now it's not working at all!!! This is proving a right pain in the arse always having to shove my arm down to the manual realise button to put fuel in the car. Does anyione have any suggestions to sloving this problem? Apparently it's quite common
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missk22 - what model is your 93K? I had a problem just like yours with a K reg golf 1.8CL. Turned out to be just a loose electrical connector to the central locking operating pump. If yours has the same system this is located in the boot on the right hand side (if its a hatchback). It should be surrounded by insulating foam. All I had to do was push the two parts of the connector together and it started working again - cost nothing and took five minutes!
Hope this helps :smiley:
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my CL has packed up too. The motor was still woking but the locks weren't. So I took it appart and found the impeller had disintegrated :angry:
(http://clubgtinorfolk.com/2/clpump.jpg)
Another problem I had was the car lost poswer at 3k RPM. turned out to be the fuel pump wasn't supplying enough fuel at that point hence the poor engine was starved of fuel.
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I've got a 97 8V GTI thats starting to miss at about 3000rpm. It's running okay it's just a bit fluffy between 2800-4000, feels like it's missing. I've changed plugs, leads, dist cap, rotor arm, air filter, still no good, I don't wanna put it into a garage, any ideas ?
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Can anybody help me with my car problems (too many personal problems to bother about! :laugh:) if so please look at my "SCARY BISCUITS THREAD"
Ch3ears!
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i owned a mk3 golf cabriolet since last year, i can only tell one thing is, the car has excellent outlook and i loved it so much, other than this everything is just a crab, the engine is always shaking, gearbox is not smooth, steering is so heavy, very unstable during fast driving, i always think that if i can handle this car then i have no problem with any car in world.
i had spent forturne to fix up so many minor problems
anyway, i will go to mk5 gti or r32 next year, and i am sure this is the best generation after mk1. but in terms of outlook i think mk5 is not so existing, mk1 till mk3 still has the best looking.
i always dreaming that if i can install the mechanical of the mk5 to my mk3 cabriolet, then i will stay with it forever,
it just like the relationship of me and my girlfriend, so ironic...... :undecided:
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Hi!
I was wondering whether anyone has come across this prob with a MK3 8v '97:
When starting the car up from cold (ambient temperature is usually about 4 to 8 'C im not sure if its a contributing factor), the headlights, dash lights & heater (if its on) are all very dim, as if not enough power is going through the circuits. When I start to drive off, within 30 secs you can noticeably see full power being restored to these systems. Sometimes its as if the headlights are only as powerful as if i had the sidelights on.
Ive tried sitting with the car idleing to see if the electrics "perk up" within a certain time limit, but every time, power is only restored as soon as i start to drive-regardless if ive been sitting idle for up to ten mins.
oh, and the battery is still good too.
Im stuck with this-I have a feeling it may be the alternator on the way out, but im not sure at all really. Its the last thing i need cos at the minute im dealing with an interior light that won't go off in delay, a wooing noise from the wheel bearings and ive only just solved the cutting out prob that so many Mk3s have.
Its not a good month! :cry: but any advice on this thread would be much appreciated!
Mr Des!
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I have a GTI Golf MK3 that keeps on reving out at 5000 rpm, CAN ANYONE HELP.
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I've only got one slight problem with my '92 mk3 CL, I think it might be the starter motor as it only happens when I start the car, but when I turn the ignotion over, as it starts, there's what I can only describe as a "farting" sound!
If I've had the car running a while, it doesnt always do it, but will always make this noise when it's cold.
Could it be the starter motor, and any ideas if there's anything I can do to fix it, without changing the starter motor?
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can anyone tell me where i can get a mk3 golf gti colour concept ns wing. It has a rectangular side repeater and no hole for the aerial.
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Hi, I'm new to this site but been through a few GTi's.
I currently have a Mk3 16V and I have a problem with the passenger door. When I unlock using this door it does unlock this door only and blows the central locking fuse ?
If I use the drivers door then it unlocks all doors etc with no problems. I guess there is a short circuit in the passengers door ? Does anybody know a solution ???
Thanks
Jon
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hi all my wife has recently bought a mark 3 and we are getting two faults with it - both very serious but intermittent.
the first one - power steering fails mid corner! just goes and comes back fine, every now and again this happens.
the second and just as scary - brake pedal feels like there is something wrong, cant really describe it maybe as if something metal is interfeering with the brake caliper?? or possibly but not convinced maybe abs coming on randomly - ?
both faults totally random as far as i can tell and from an hours driving you may never see either fault or the next day both? any one ?
ps checked fluid levels and all fine and on max
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Here's one which is really bugging me, if someone can tell me what I need to do to rectify it I'll be over the moon! I've got a Mk3 Golf GTI with about 88k on the clock. It's standard.
When starting from cold, the car behaves normally.
When starting from warm, the car behaves as it's running with the choke out, the rev's are too high and often don't want to settle below 2500rpm.
Thoughts?
Thanks!
Lee.
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hi would love if you could help got a mk3 gti 16v and every now n then when turning feels like the pas isnt there its not lowered and standard rims???
cheers
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Have you changed the PAS belt or something as mine was slipping in the wet and i was losing PAS. It has never happened again after replacing it.
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Hello all
Really hoping someone out there can help with this I have a mk3 2.0 golf GTi N (95), My golf is cutting out and the oil light is flashing when I start the car not whilst driving. The car starts and revs up to just under 2000rpm and then dies. I can sometimes get round this by putting some oil in but there is already too much in there and I am starting to worry.
Thank you in advance your help is greatly appreciated.
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4 months ago I had the perfect car.....
Unmolested 3dr 96(P) m3 16v in black with 115k on the clock and fsh. The car was sweet, quick and a joy to drive.
In time honoured tradition, I took the car to VW for a full service, MOT and cambelt change (for my peace of mind, last one was @ 78k) and parted with 700 sheets of her majesty's finest. It passed!
BEHOLD!
The car has trouble starting even with a new starter motor, idles sluggishly and then stalls regularly first thing in the morn (the AA said they wouldn't come out no more, as the car is fine later in the day!)
I've been told that I need a new water pump as the new cam belt cant be tensioned and is putting strain on the old pump. Are these common problems? I cant afford to keep paying Watford VW £88 p/h to look at it, and I dont want to let the car go when there's plenty of life left in it.
Is the love affair over...............?
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Only had my mk3 for less than a week so haven't had time to tinker with it yet, but these are the ickle probs I've got:
Leccy Sunroof tilts but won't slide, maybe the cable?
Can't get my headlights to stay on main beam, pull back on the stalk and main beam comes on as long as you hold the stalk back but won't stay on when you let go, The stalk clicks still, like it's going onto main beam but then back onto dipped as soon as you let go.
Any ideas?
Oh the water light flashing problem, must be the same on mk3's
I've sorted this out on 2 mk2's and an audi coupe, was the same issue.
Provided that it isn't actually losing coolant, it's just dirty coolant affecting the sensor.
It's annoying that little red light flashing, so worth while spending an afternoon sorting this out. Not at all difficult, just time consuming.
Get yourself a good engine degreasant like Gunk
Drain the coolant system
Remove the round ball expansion tank, take indoors, block up the pipes, put a little degreaser in then fill up with boiling water from the kettle, put the cap back on and leave for 5 -10 mins, give it a bloody good shake and then drain it out and rinse through with hot water, watch all the crap come out into your sink
Now put the expansion tank back into the car and connect back up.
Now to clean the rest of the system out:
put some degreaser into the expansion tank and fill up with water, put the cap back on
run up to temp (when fan kicks in)
drain the system again once it's cooled enough so you won't scald yourself,
connect back up and refill with only clean water, run up to temp, drain, repeat untill the water comes out clear and then refill with the correct quantity of coolant/antifreeze with water.
Hey presto, no more red light flashing
Oh, if it's a gti and there are a few toffee like deposit's in the coolant, don't panic, it might not be the head gasket, it's more likely the oil cooler needs changing, especially if there's no mayo under the oil cap.
so, it cost nothing to fix (well apart from antifreeze, degreaser and maybe an oil cooler at the same time, oh and a few cups o tea while you wait for it to get to temp) but well worth doing
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Hi, got a mk3 cabrio with just 1 fault!! Got no lcd display showing with no temp/fuel gauge or speedo and tacho! Lookin everywhere can't find a thing, was fine but started playing up after a couple of sitting months, needs to go for mot so till sorted this I stuck!!! :cry:
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got a bit of a problem with my girlfriends MK3 1.4 CL its runs as sweet as a NUT very quiet and consistant
BUT
when on a long ish run like a motorway run as soon as you get off and on to the slip road and brake the car stalls ??? it does start again first turn of the key and is totally fine again until next motorway trip :sad:
i read a link in this thread about carbonising in the throttle bodies and that they just need a god clean out
can any one confirm this or had the same problem ??
does anyone know of a tutorial / info on stripping down to clean throttle boddies etc would be great
any help would be great
cheers
chris
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I have an issue with my electric windows, the drivers door only opens the passenger door window (doesn't close) and no response to drivers door in either direction. I have tried wiggling the wires in the door section but no luck still ??? the wiggling used to work
Does anyone know if this could be a relay issue ? or is it likely that the cables are now cut somewhere ???
Does anyone know anything else it could be ?
thanks
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hi my mk 3 1.4 8v has a problem. when cold the car idles fine but when the car is warm it idles very poorly as if it has a missfire but only wen idling???
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Is it using any oil and water?? Is there any oil in the water etc?
Stu
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hi there i have a problem with my 1998 mk3 golf gti 8valve ,basically it broke down on me the other night the fault was no spark from the coil replaced it and it was ok ,however the following day i went out the car drove fine got home parked up but when i tried to start it again it cranked,fired up and ran but once reaching idle it will cut out at the same point every time any one got any ideas??????????????its doing my swede in as ive checked for sparks which there are from no1 plug and fron coil pack always when i turn ignition on i hear the buzzing which suggests theres power to the fuel pump im confused someone come and save me!!!!!!
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Hiya Mate.. sounds like what I'm still going thru :angry: Replaced dizzy,cap,leads,rotor,fuel-relay... Got fuel,got compression,and have a good spark on all four, have lined-up on TDC #1 pot... Rotor at notch.. :sad: Still won't start.. It all began with what you've described... Help Anyone...
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check the wiring on all the sensors in the engine bay. MAF, ecu temp sensor, hall sensor, intake air temp sensor, oil pressure sensor, clean the throttle body wi petrol or carb cleaner, change relays 30 & 167 in the fusebox (pos 3 & 12, ecu power and fuel pump respectively), also cracked coil possible,
Relays fail, and sensor wires get chafed or crack wi heat in the engine bay.
My 8v does this too but i recently had a timing belt fitted and it won't rev over 5k now so the timing belt is 1 tooth out according to Boneybradley (he is good for info) and may also be causing my lumpy idle, and cutting out probs.
Boneybradley has put up pics of the engine bay wi arrows showing sensor locations. search for posts by him / "engine pics"
This fault is as common as cats piss and a lot of people struggle with it but be methodical and thorough and im sure you will find it. Do as much by yourself as you can cos a lot of peeps get ripped for dough by garages changing stuff willy-nilly. Then the fault returns...
get relays from a scrapper or buy new (£8 to £12) and change them, and check EVERY wire in the engine bay one by one. Unplug the MAF and see if it runs ok then, but my fav for starting then cutting out repeatedly is the fuel pump relay no.167 at pos 12 in the fusebox. Good luck!
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I've got a flat spot between 1000rpm and about 2000rpm in first gear which is great when i pull away!! anyone know what the problem is?
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You dont say what engine you have but most likely an ignition timing error, get it scanned by vag com if you can to see if yiu get a "camshaft speed sensor error 000515 - signal outside range - intermittent" from the ecu. If so, the hall sender on the dizzy is knacked or the timing is out.
Could be fuelling too, a faulty FPS not reacting quicly enough tho that would take a garage to check that as the ecu doesnt monitor fuel pressure in most mk3's except maybe the late vr6's.
when you accelerate then air moves faster than fuel so an instant enrichment is given, along with a sudden timing advance, so either could be the problem.
Id say if it stutters when its in the flat spot, its spark timing. If its just flat, but smooth then maybe its underfuelling at this point.
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my car will stall when it gets hot and wont start again until it cools right down again im going to change the head gasket but is there anything else i should try before i start taking the engine apart (car is a 1.4 ABD)
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My 96 GTI 16V ABF had a hissy fit today, rev needle was bouncing up and down, no power and wouldn't start for about 5 mins after??? :cry:
Drove ok after??? Any ideas?
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rev needle sticking high is normally vacuum leaks.. so if it was slow falling could be that..
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Here's one which is really bugging me, if someone can tell me what I need to do to rectify it I'll be over the moon! I've got a Mk3 Golf GTI with about 88k on the clock. It's standard.
When starting from cold, the car behaves normally.
When starting from warm, the car behaves as it's running with the choke out, the rev's are too high and often don't want to settle below 2500rpm.
Thoughts?
Thanks!
Lee.
I seem to have the same problem on a 1.4 ABD, how did you manage to resolve this problem.
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Here's one which is really bugging me, if someone can tell me what I need to do to rectify it I'll be over the moon! I've got a Mk3 Golf GTI with about 88k on the clock. It's standard.
When starting from cold, the car behaves normally.
When starting from warm, the car behaves as it's running with the choke out, the rev's are too high and often don't want to settle below 2500rpm.
Thoughts?
Thanks!
Lee.
Hi Lee,
Can you please let me know how you sorted this problem.
Thanks
Milan
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i am guessing the temp sensor....it controls the fuelling and when faulty it makes the mixture richer (as the engine believes its still cold). this also works the other way..stalling when cold but ok when warm
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Hi,
Thanks for your reply, Changes the temp sensor and the cleaned the throtle body and still have the same issues with the engine revving high when idealing.
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hi can you help me out ?
i have a mark 3 anniversary, hmmmm right, yesterday morning my car was fine, and thought the day of driving it round college and stuff it startd to jolt and make a real banging nosie as it did, pretty violent and shook the car, this happens whenevre i turn a corner say left or right ill get like 4-5 jolts asthough it doesnt want to move, then it will run for about 100 mtrs down the road then jolt again a few times.
i dont know if you can help me im emailing random dubbers to try shine some light on this problem
thanks
Dan
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oh and it does it whether the engine is hot or cold, its a 2.0 8v version.
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the joys! i have had many a problem since owning my first gti ( 2 months in) first i noticed it wasnt reving past 5000rpm! then the car started to stall while driving ( any speed any time ), then it wouldnt idle! ( still doesnt!! ) then just in case that wasnt enough every now and then the revs would suddenly drop off and you can hear a relay chattering away!, after a second or two it will be fine!!!
grrrrrrrr thiunking about selling to be honest!!!
had the car vag-com, errors that came up......air mass sensor, lambda probe and hall sender....
1st - investigated lambda probe, has been bodged in the past, one of the wires was broke.......fixed...wow!!! was like a new car for a day...reving all the way round and alot quicker...( lasted a day till it started to stall again and ever since then it wont idle or rev past the 5000rpm mark ) buying a new one friday from gsf...fingers crossed!!!
2nd - picked up a new air mass sensor and seal last night...fitted.... now will rev all the way round......beginning to confuse me now...but still wont idle...it will idle if i disconnect lambda probe tho?????? gotta be bust right??
3rd - changed relays 167 and 30, well thats done jaff all!!!
4th - gonna get vag-com next week after all the bits have been changed and see..... if its still knackered im gonna cry....
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From my experience, the CRANK SHAFT sensor going which causes the car to cut out right after the engine is started ... this on the 16v ABF engine btw.
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I really think it'd be worthwhile pitching in to make a FAQ (frequently asked questions) for this section..
like a troubleshooting guide of things to check...
a lot of people seem to be blindly changing expensive components only to find they don't cure the problem so I think it'd help those plagued by these annoying problems if you put all all your experience together.
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hello got a problem with electric window.it had broken so replaced regulator.great it was fixed apart from now the window works in reverseup goes down down goes up ,ok not to much of a problem ,but ive got thatchem alarm so when i press it it will make sure all windows are shut but the problem is now my window opens when the car is locked this way can anybody help with this problem :rolleyes: