GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk6 => Golf mk6 GTD/TDI => Topic started by: ajmoir36 on 21 December 2010, 12:07
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Does anyone else think that diesels are easier to drive in the snow that petrol, i.e. they easily roll along in 1st,2nd,3rd without the accelerator. I have to admit I have had no problems with the GTD in the snow, and the tyres have covered 11k miles.
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Torque = win.
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+1 easy
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No necessarily. I have no probs with the GTI.
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Great news for all Golf drivers then - it's a win win situation :wink:
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Great news for all Golf drivers then - it's a win win situation :wink:
Very much so :smiley:
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Does the DSG cope well? I like have control over the clutch for the really slow, non-spin the wheels starts. I see alot of people revving and getting on like crazy and just dont see the need, thought maybe it was an Auto box not coping. Or maybe they just cant drive.
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I just take my foot off the brake and the car does the rest. I do use the manual option a lot in the snow but nearly never in normal driving.
DSG is so different from traditional autos in so many ways, you get much more control especially with these late boxes, they do seem to have cone a long way over the first DSG's I've owned.
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I just take my foot off the brake and the car does the rest. I do use the manual option a lot in the snow but nearly never in normal driving.
DSG is so different from traditional autos in so many ways, you get much more control especially with these late boxes, they do seem to have cone a long way over the first DSG's I've owned.
Completely agree. I only move it into manual so I can shift it up earlier and also hold it in a gear. It really is wonderful in the snow. In reality a DSG may not be any more capable but at the very least it makes driving in the snow much more relaxing. :smiley:
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Yes they are :wink:
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Are any Diesels owners having problems with waxing?
My Missus's A3 TDi had a problem the other day, left the car warm up as the day warmed up, and no further problems. It causes rough running, non starting etc.
It is caused where the diesel started to solidify (freeze) at very low temps.
UK Diesel is rated to -15 degrees.
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The only reason that the diesel would freeze is if it had excessive amounts of water in it.
Where do you fill up from? I would suggest changing suppliers for the time being if it's beginning to solidify.
Also it would be worth whipping the fuel filter out and removing the housing it is in as well, to ensure that the water drain off paths are clear and empty. I'm not sure if the A3 has a WIF (water in fuel) sensor in the system, but worth checking out.
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Cheers,
RAC blokey reckoned it was 'waxing', temp was about minus daft at the time. It is a fairly new 59 plate 170 Tdi
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No waxing here, although mine lives in a garage most of the time, probably doesnt get as cold.
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Does this make it extremely difficult to start first thing? I've noticed that mine really struggles if its been sat for more than a day. The Golf was never as difficult to start :undecided:
Got a new fuel filter to chuck in. Would that help? :undecided:
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What you have to remember is that your injectors are machined in such a way that they have between 5-8 holes and they are microns in size, through which you are trying to force diesel through, at start up, at probably 200BAR (increasing as load/speed does).
There is also a large dead volume initially in the rail, pump housing, and fuel lines, that you are trying to pull/push towards the injectors. Also there is a very cold combustion chamber to heat (via glow plugs at first) and then cold air being used (which diesels dislike at the best of times). Add that to the huge inertia that the diesel has requiring to be turned and it all adds up.
Basically, cold weather = harder for a diesel to achieve first fire.
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What you have to remember is that your injectors are machined in such a way that they have between 5-8 holes and they are microns in size, through which you are trying to force diesel through, at start up, probably 200BAR (increasing as load/speed does).
There is also a large dead volume initially in the rail, pump housing, and fuel lines, that you are trying to pull/push towards the injectors. Also there is a very cold combustion chamber to heat (via glow plugs at first) and then cold air being used (which diesels dislike at the best of times). Add that to the huge inertia that the diesel has requiring to be turned and it all adds up.
Basically, cold weather = harder for a diesel to achieve first fire.
Cheers for that :nerd:
Just been a little bit shocked at a supposedly 'better / newer engine' being much harder to start :sad:
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The main problem is that once the engine is off the pressure in the system slowly falls away, like everything pressure related it is practically impossible to keep the pressure constant over a long period of time when there is a flow path avaliable to it.
So the pressure in the rail will be maintained for a short period (hence stop start diesel cars are able to operate) but once turned off for the night the pressure will fall to zero gradually. When you turn on again on a sub zero morning the pump needs to get fuel moving from the tank to the engine through tiny diameter pipes. It's worth remembering that the pump is engine driven as well, so it will only operate at turn over speed until combustion starts. :nerd:
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What you have to remember is that your injectors are machined in such a way that they have between 5-8 holes and they are microns in size, through which you are trying to force diesel through, at start up, at probably 200BAR (increasing as load/speed does).
There is also a large dead volume initially in the rail, pump housing, and fuel lines, that you are trying to pull/push towards the injectors. Also there is a very cold combustion chamber to heat (via glow plugs at first) and then cold air being used (which diesels dislike at the best of times). Add that to the huge inertia that the diesel has requiring to be turned and it all adds up.
Basically, cold weather = harder for a diesel to achieve first fire.
Nice post Slick , that explanes it now for mine why its difficult starting when its really cold. :wink:
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I've had no problems starting the golf coldest has been -17
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My mate's Merc was knackered last year due to frozen diesel.
This was in Germany and the temp was -20 C or so, apparently he used the 'wrong type' of diesel.
It was a company car and they tried to make him pay for a new engine, took him about 6 months to sort out.
No joke, it happened.
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My works colleagues car (some sort of Chrysler people carrier) has had to be warmed up with a heater every day this week before it would start. Sounds like it has been that cold the diesel has started to wax.
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I've had no problems starting the golf coldest has been -17
Mine fires first time but its a struggle though? :undecided: could be battery?
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UK diesel is rated down to -15 before waxing starts. But it would have to be colder than that outside for the diesel to be -15. Other countries have different grades depending on there climate.
Our TDI has not had much problem in the snow. I do find first gear is a little too high and that the wide tyres on it have the same problem wide summer tyres on anything has.
A small turbo'ed petrol car has large torques too, so are similar to a TDI.
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Front wheel diesel cars should handle a little better as there is more weight on the front tyres (heavy engine). Turn off the traction control if you hit a hill and are having a problem getting up, honestly it works turn it back on again on level ground.
Want to get around easy get some wheels/tyres with no profile they scoot around in the snow (less surface area)
As for waxing/freezing when I was in the Air Force our tanker drivers would top up with Aviation fuel as it contained anti waxing addatives FSII as fighter jets don't have fuel heaters on board. Petrol and Diesel are by products these days of aviation fuels, I did a tour of an oil refinery many moons ago and at the time 99.9% of a barrel of oil was used from. Aviation fuel to pertrol, thats where coke (not the nose snorting kind) and tar also come from.
OOps that was long
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Front wheel diesel cars should handle a little better as there is more weight on the front tyres (heavy engine). Turn off the traction control if you hit a hill and are having a problem getting up, honestly it works turn it back on again on level ground.
Want to get around easy get some wheels/tyres with no profile they scoot around in the snow (less surface area)
As for waxing/freezing when I was in the Air Force our tanker drivers would top up with Aviation fuel as it contained anti waxing addatives FSII as fighter jets don't have fuel heaters on board. Petrol and Diesel are by products these days of aviation fuels, I did a tour of an oil refinery many moons ago and at the time 99.9% of a barrel of oil was used from. Aviation fuel to pertrol, thats where coke (not the nose snorting kind) and tar also come from.
OOps that was long
Intreasting post :cool:
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FYI - Barrel of Crude breakdown.
(http://www.gravmag.com/oil13k.gif)
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FYI - Barrel of Crude breakdown.
(http://www.gravmag.com/oil13k.gif)
No internet back in the day, just a guy with facts n figures. This was 1992 production was all about Jet Fuel at Immingham near Hull. I was in the RAF lol
Another interesting point is, where does your local petrol station get its fuel ?. Ours comes from Grangemouth where every supermarket and petrol station get's its fuel, could they all just be the same.........
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Indeed. It's all about cracking processes over time though, they have been constantly refining and re-defining the methods they use to get everything that they can from a barrel.
Unfortunately now public use fuel is more important (read easily taxable) supply, thus the cracking processes concentrate on that first now.
In terms of fuel quality, there are hundreds of different blends and types available a study was conducted a couple of years back in to it, and the various stations that sell it to the public had differeing types then. Various additives and particles were found in differing samples.
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I remember doing a fuels course many moons ago, finding out flashpoints, specific gravity, water content (yep all fuel has some) seeing how much FSII was in the fuel. It was interesting at the time as I could say yes/no as to wether we accepted the fuel or not, I expect they have a bit of kit now that does it all in seconds.
Diesel will wax, avoid Morrisons in the winter as their pumps are prone to jam/not cut out. Espically at the Fort nr Glasgow as I found out to my cost, stinking all day after a little blow back.
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Back splash.... never a pleasant experience. :sad:
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Not when you work in an office and it starts to warm up....... :sick:
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Want to get around easy get some wheels/tyres with no profile they scoot around in the snow (less surface area)
Im guessing you meen higher profile and less width.
The contact area/surface area is the same but its the shape of this contact area to the ground that changes(if the weight and pressure is the same).
Rather than been wide(left to right) and narrow(front to back) (helping cornering grip) less width (left to right) increases the (front to back) size which helps traction but the contact size and area stays the same its just changed shape.
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Yes thin tyres would be better, fat is better for grip on normal roads as there is more tyre on the road, Could also try letting the air out a little so the tyre is not so had this also helps with grip. Not a real solution though if your on your way out :cry: