GolfGTIforum.co.uk
General => The garage => Topic started by: marky-gee on 16 October 2010, 22:45
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Ok ive had a look back at previous posts using the search bar and cant find any what mention what im experiencing
Right when i accelerate im getting the very very faint rattle(like a well oiled chain would sound) when i lift off the sound go's away. Now this isnt some sort of heat shield rattle or a noisy tappets sound like a biro being bashed on a table,just a very faint timed rattle under load.
the only way i can describe it is like if you were to put your tongue on your front upper teeth breath fast in and make chi chi chi sound
now ive never had a golf before and im not sure if this is just a quirk of the engine or wether something need sorting
HELP ! :cry:
MK3 2.0 GTI (8v) 1997
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sounds like spark knock. yu have to much spark on or fueling issues
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The car seems to run fine. Is there anyway of checking?
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put a timeing light on it
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Had another wee poke about and I think it's coming from around the rear or under the iet manifold(not heatsheild) or fuel line area...any ideas?
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what dannyp said, check your timing first! :shocked:
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Took it to the local volks centre and they say they think its the exhaust manifold gasket leaking, as one of the engine mounts are shot as the engine can be rocked my hand !
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Still looking, still wondering, dam annoying sound. i say its prob pinking, but they say the 8v engines cant be timed. i have gave it the best service its prob ever had and also fitted a new exhaust system.And yet this noise still torments me.
Oh and changed all 3 engine mounts.I just find it so strange that i cant simulate this noise when stationary no matter how hard i rev it
I only ever get it under load when driving, very faint when very very light throttle and increases to max noise when you floor it (no matter what gear) and stays at that level right the way through to the red
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Does your car sound like this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDWk0BCeblQ
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Does your car sound like this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDWk0BCeblQ
Nope, but your mam does when im hanging out the back of her.
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8 valves cant be timed..........
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i have the same prob. its leaking from the gaskets on the mani-cat. mine was the 1st & 4th on the outlet. its a b!tch of a job on the agg engines, had to take both engine mounts off and pull engine forward and then took the inlet off & the manifold off the downpipe to the cat. i used a high temp silicone sealent on the gaskets after but broke a bolt on the manifold to the downpipe so back to square 1. just take your time mate if you know what your doing. otherwise expect bills from £80 onwards. its not the timming or anything. defo the manifold to the cat leaking. replace with new gaskets cost pence but please use that silicone sealent as if you use the exhaust paste it tends to get brittle after a while and breask off you will be forking out the same amount again to rectify the prob.
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So is it where the manifold meets the head? Or is it manifold to downpipes? Or down pipes to cat?
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personally id put silicone all over the fecking exhaust. but put it on both sides of the manifold (head & downpipe meet) the downpipe and the cat side. you dont need to go futher than that unless you have a leak. i went to the local autospares around here but they dont do the silicone http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HIGH-TEMP-Oven-Door-CLEAR-Silicone-ADHESIVE-GLUE-167-/160492587340?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Kitchen_Ovens_Hobs_Cookers&hash=item255e1a894c (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HIGH-TEMP-Oven-Door-CLEAR-Silicone-ADHESIVE-GLUE-167-/160492587340?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Kitchen_Ovens_Hobs_Cookers&hash=item255e1a894c) something like this would be good. :wink:
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exhaust sealing paste is a better bet, silicone selant won't stick exhaust temps
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i had this debate with someone else. exhaust paste gets brittle after a while. a guy who does custom stainless exhausts uses this ALL the time and he has never had any probs and he does 3-6 cars per day depedending on the type of job (torqueflow)
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ok bit of an update
Noticed it doesn't do it on 1st gear ever if you drive it right up to 5000rpm, weird.
when i start the car im noticing the revs don't go over 1000rpm when cold and sometimes its struggling to stay idle ,should it not rev a bit higher on cold start ???
also noticed that there is a bit of popping coming from the exhaust when its blipped,could it be over fuelling? what would cause this ?
can i also state that this noise is 100% only under load not when revved parked up, and is definitely engine associated
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8 valves cant be timed..........
Yes thay can :smiley:
Sounds like it i pinking to me.
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8 valves cant be timed..........
Yes thay can :smiley:
Sounds like it i pinking to me.
I do hope so.......i honestly do.
unbelievably though every garage i have been to tell me it cant and also 50% of the vw community tell me the same. who do i listen to ?
In layman's terms how would i go about checking? bearing in mind i don't have a timing light and the garages around here don't have a scooby
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from your sig i'm guessing its a 1997 mk3 2.0 8v
they pick up a signal from a toothed wheel on the cranck that is non adjustable the dizzy is just used as a cam position sensor and adjustig it will throw it into lame mode. so you cant adjust the timeing
but if you have a sensor fault the ecu will be getting the wrong infomation and applying to much spark advance. knock sensors and airflow meter
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from your sig i'm guessing its a 1997 mk3 2.0 8v
they pick up a signal from a toothed wheel on the cranck that is non adjustable the dizzy is just used as a cam position sensor and adjustig it will throw it into lame mode. so you cant adjust the timeing
but if you have a sensor fault the ecu will be getting the wrong infomation and applying to much spark advance. knock sensors and airflow meter
very knowledgeable, thanks
as a matter of course what sensors would you guys change and what are the locations ?
i would be changing these through the course of the restore anyway but i intend on running it for 6-8 months before stripping. and also before i spend £££$$$ on having the manifold gasket checked, if that is what is found to be faulty in the end.
cheers for all the input again guys !!!
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As Danny said, spark timing is calculated by the ecu.
Turning the dizzy manually will not help.
If you think the timing is wrong, all you can do is set the static timing marks.
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As Danny said, spark timing is calculated by the ecu.
Turning the dizzy manually will not help.
If you think the timing is wrong, all you can do is set the static timing marks.
Thanks for the info, I stand corrected :smiley:
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knock sensors live on the frount of teh engine block between cyls 1-2 and 3-4 there black bosh things fixed by one bolt through the middel that must be 20nm
if there knackerd agg ect will pink like hell on 95 octane fuel after a while, 97 will normaly stop it, airflow meter is between airbox and inlet manifold in the big black pipe
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Quick update:
Im taking a gamble on it being the exhaust manifold gasket, so its being done next week ,OCD or what !!
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any luck? mine turned out to be the 1st and 4th exit on the manifold its still doing it :angry: im getting mad now but has improved alot thoe
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any luck? mine turned out to be the 1st and 4th exit on the manifold its still doing it :angry: im getting mad now but has improved alot thoe
it's in at vw 2morro, fingers crossed, I've also ask them to do the mani-downpipe gasket.
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you taking it there??? :huh: how comes? sure you couldav done it yourself with some help? (thats if you know what your doing)
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you taking it there??? :huh: how comes? sure you couldav done it yourself with some help? (thats if you know what your doing)
I work away mon-fri and my company get good discounts at the local stealers,it's handy to as they will pick it up, fix it,wash+Hoover it and drop it back off,LOL
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UPDATE:
I had the manifold gasket, downpipe to manifold gasket and inlet gaskets renewed today and the dam thing is still doing it.
so back to square one as they say.
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did tell you what it was
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did tell you what it was
pinking ? we'll see, not many people know about setting them up so getting somebody to do it is rocking horse crap, guess ill just go round in circles till i have replaced ever part under the bonnet LOL
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hand on so vw did what? and they knew the problem? they got f**king dicks working in there or what? if the prob is still there, you shouldnt have paid, as there was a prob with a rattle and its still there. did you ask them to change the gaskets? mine is the manifold gasket! btw how much did it cost?
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it has a broken sensor. allready said what there likely to be
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Are all golf knock sensors the same(ie, will a vr6 one fit a 8v?, or are they tuned to the engine?)as the are a few golfs domwn the scrappys near me and I could "inherit" some.
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there quite interchangeable the differance between ones on diffrent engines is the length of the lead usally.
the bolt must be done to 20nm when refited, the torque is critical as it loads the sensor wrong torque and it senses wrong
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sorry to high jack, but say the knock sensor is old but theres abit of knocking will there be alot of diffrence if it was replaced or will there be a little diffrence?
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if the knock sensor is fubar it'll not tell the ecu about knock so when knock occurs the ecu won't do anything about it, if the ecu knows the engine is knocking it'll retard ignition to prevent the knock ( to a point )
most enignes will knock under heavy accseloration on 95 octane fuel when hot if the knock sensors are disconnected. the other possible cause is the airflow meter under reading and running the engine lean under load normaly the knock sensors will pick up he knock and retard the ignition to compensate.
knock sensors ae first port of call
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Well it's still sounds like a load of pish,
New knock sensor, new Exhaust manifold gasket, new inlet gasket, new injector seals, new downpipe gasket, decated with new gasket, New blue temp sensor.......What else could it be f**k me ?????
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we may need a better description of the noise then.
dose tempriture make any diffearnce ?
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we may need a better description of the noise then.
dose tempriture make any diffearnce ?
No, just sounds like a bag of sh!te, what about hall sensor or crank sensor would either of them cause pinking?
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i would get the fault codes read and see if there are any there now.
knock sensors are really good at not bringing up codes but the rest of the sensors usally do. the hall sensor is nthe dizzy isn't actualy used for spark timeing it's used by the ecu as a cam poition sensor so it knows whitch cylinder is on intake stroke for squential injection ( reduces emissions at ideal and thats about it )
the the cranck sensor was knacker i would expect you to be saying the car runs like sh!t as well and cuts out all the time.
as sayy read the codes and see what crops up anythign thats causeign knock should raise a code now. failing that gets someone who knows engines to to have a quick listen ( i mean a proper petrol head not a muppet fitter ) as pinking or knock has a very destinctive sound just to confirm that it is knock.
it chould allways be mecanical rattel but thats bad news but woudl have expected temp to have had an effect on that and thought it would have developed by now
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found these post by chance, looks like it could be the fault
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=110164.0
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=115484.0