GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: sellers on 27 January 2005, 17:04
-
hi, i have a 1.6 driver mk2, and its has a problem :angry:
please take the time to read it is greatly appreciated
Basically the story goes, my car ran fine, then one day it decided to rev a bit high, then it got higher, i think its around 2.5k. ?Anyway on rare occations it doesn't do it. ?But when it does it revs pretty high and it obviously over fueling. ?So wen i set off there is plenty of lag (if u get what i mean) until the revs get to about 4k. ?The choke plunger isn't hitting the throttle so i don't think it is the choke, does any 1 have any ideas?
Also this morning i was on the way to work and i was late so i was doing 100 on the motorway all the way, and the car was fine the problem didnt happen, then i went off the motorway up2 teh round about, so i tried to accellerate it suffered really bad lag then loads of white smoke poured out from the exhaust for about 20secs (a massive amout like a cloud) since then it hasnt smoked but the problem still happens
help me please :cry: :cry:
-
Sounds like you need the idle screw adjusting to me, or it keeps sticking open, same happened to mine recently, after tanking it the idle went to 1.5k instead of 1k and stuck there, then when I got in next morning all was well, when it was last in the garage I told them and they adjusted the idle screw I think they said :undecided: Don't ask me how though as I don't know. :undecided:
-
yeah i managed to find that after an hour of looking, looks a bar steward to get to though. how do you stop it from sticking, i tried some carb cleaner and also WD40 around the outside of the carb?
any other suggestions to what it could be?
-
Sounds like the autochoke isn't switching off properly. ?BTW the big plunger on the left side isn't the autochoke, its the 3/4 point unit which is there to increase the revs on a cold start for a few seconds. ?The autochoke is the cylinder on the right side with 2 coolant hoses and an electrical connection.
Check the autochoke gets 12v when cold with the ignition on, if not check the RED temp sensor in the plastic flange at the front of the block passes current when cold. ?As well as this the coolant o'ring in the inlet manifold degrades over time and ends up blocking the coolant channel, if the carb isn't VERY hot after the engine gets to temp then this is likely to be the problem ?:smiley:
DON'T fiddle with any screws on the carb unless you are 110% certain nothing else is wrong with it, as the 2e2 screw settings rarely go wrong unless a backyard mechanic has been fiddling with them to compensate for another problem with the carb!
-
cheers, would this warrant why i had white smoke though?
also, i put a substance in my coolant that finds holes and blocks them last week? could this have become solid in the sytem and blocked the coolant getting to it then?
Really appreciated guys :smiley:
-
check oil level, when i overfilled once oil went into the air intake and caused lots of white smoke
-
check oil level, when i overfilled once oil went into the air intake and caused lots of white smoke
been there done that with my grey one :embarassed:
-
Don't ever put radweld in the coolant, it fooked up my heater matrx ?:cry:
White smoke might have been due to it running rich foir a bit due to carb icing, especially since you did a long run then had power lag after slowing down. ?Check the 2 vacuum hoses on the airbox are connected, the warm air feed hose from the exhaust manifold is connected and that the warm air flap opens. ?Its at at the front of the airbox where the warm air hose connects.
-
iv checked all those and it still happens :cry:
coulde it be the head gasket or summat? please help :cry:
-
Radweld is fine to use, just make sure you set the heater to hot before you run the car :laugh:
-
I have taken it to a garage that specialises in veedubs, he recons its the wiring to the carb (does that sound right?), anyway, hes gonna fix it on tuesday, for a tenner, and i wont get charged if that aint the problem.
-
Theres a heater at the front of the carb as well as the inlet manifold preheater and autochoke heater.
If these don't get 12v then stuff wont work right :smiley:
The red temp sensor in the plastic flange at the front of the block controls the autochoke, and the grey one controls the inlet manifold preheater, I had to change the red sender on mine as it was stuck closed so my heater never worked. It didn't help that the carb didn't get any coolant either, so the only way it would switch off was from heat transfer from the engine. This takes ages and means the engine would idle at 3k, smoke badly when cold and drink fuel not good :smiley: