GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: emery1990 on 21 September 2010, 16:29
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Im all happy as i have just fitted my exhaust manifold, i went to other up the downpipe, but realised there was not enough room to poke it up towards the manifold. Can i take that metal body that the gear linkages attach to and that the gear selector pipe thing passes through, if i can remove this it seems like it will go through, or do i have to remove the steering bit just above the frame ( subframe?) i would remove the frame but the bolts are all corroded, if i can easily get all new bolts then ill remove as itll be easier surely to just remove ?
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It depends on access, I removed an engine, but left the downpipe and manifold attached - and it pulled through the gap - when the engine was lifted.
But with the engine in place, I would have thought the subframe has to be dropped.
To answer your question, the gear linkage bracket holds on to the rear subframe by 3x 13mm bolts.
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Ok cheers, most of the subframe bolts look rusted to hell, ive got plus gas, can i just go somewhere like bq to get some fresh new bolts too put it back on with, might as well kurust and hammerite it as well.
So you dont reckon ill need too take off that steering bit?
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Plus gas isn't going to do anything on the subframe bolts - you'll just be wasting it spraying it on bolt heads.
So you dont reckon ill need too take off that steering bit?
It depends on access.
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ok cheers i wont bother with the plus gas. Is it just the engine that has to be supported?
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Ok cheers, most of the subframe bolts look rusted to hell, ive got plus gas, can i just go somewhere like bq to get some fresh new bolts too put it back on with, might as well kurust and hammerite it as well.
So you dont reckon ill need too take off that steering bit?
spray them with releasing oil, hit them the the hammer, give it 10 mins hit them again, then with a suitable 13mm spanner/socket, or 1/2" socket (tapped on with a hammer if really corroded) and they will come out :grin:. mine did
a motor factors might have some new bolts for you or try and find a hardware shop, or even find a local fastener stockist or manufacturer and be cheeky and go to goods out and ask them. works for me
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So you dont need to unscrew them lol they just fall out ? breaking the thread im guessing ? I am determined to get this off on saterday !!
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when i did mine 8v gti i was on a ramp but it should work for you
get car high enough so you can get the downpipe in under the engine jack the engine up as far as you can without removing mounts then you can put the downpipe in from the front if you turn it upside down it will slide between the subframe and body with a bit of jiggling and twisting then you just turn the downpipe the right way up and bolt up
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The only way it works for me is to put heat on them then buy some freeze spray failing that the chisle and hammer comes our on any 13mm bolts. The other method for smaller bolts is dremel a posidrive pattern and use the largest screw driver works well on hex bolts. But sounds like you need a one meter pipe, slide it over your ratchet to give you more forced torque
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Thanks guys, yer mines only only stands, ill take the frame out, it could do with a paint.
Yer ill get some scaffold or something, had no luck with my 6inch ratchet i got lol! :grin:
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For the sake of my life, am i right in thinking i put my axle stands on the wishbones, at the moment thwere on the subframe but got to be moved obviously to remove the subframe, or are the wishbones connected to the subframe, looks like one bolt is?
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The rear of the wishbone is connected to the subframe, if you are removing the rear subframe - you cannot support the weight of the car on it.
Saying that, I would never use a wishbone as a support point anyway. I've got a few jacks and lots of axel stands, so depending on what you are doing, you can just support the weight on a jack and put an axel stand under the sill *just in case*. It depends on how much time you are going to spend under the car and what access you need.
When I removed the front wishbone, I found the best bet is to pop a couple of stands under the chassis leg mid-point, use blocks of wood to spread the weight.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/blessani/mini-CIMG7620.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/blessani/mini-CIMG7612.jpg)
Or support it at the chassis leg front:
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/blessani/mini-CIMG6937.jpg)
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Ok thanks, ive only got two axle stands and two jacks, so may get some more stands before i do it.
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You should be fine with 2x jacks and 2x stands.
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Ive know it got it jacked up, looking at it, do i have to support the engine as the rear mount connects onto this doesnt it, and also is that big 21mm? bolt the bolt which sometimes spins and spins and you have to cut the floor out to get to it? all the bolts ive tried to undo (the small 13mm bolts) have just spun and spun, am i supposed to be able to get something to hold the on top the frame still, or am i just best to chisel the heads off, will have to remove both wishbones as well to take out the subframe.
Tried looking everwhere to see what was involved but cant find nothing.
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Just read that evverything attached to it needs to be taken off ( bit obvious really :grin:) im going to get the g60 rear engine mount aswell whilts im in that area. Just not sure on what to do with these spinning nuts, if i snap a bolt and need to cut the floor plan i may push it off a cliff!! :sick:
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So the nut end is in the chassis floor plan?
Or can you see the nut?
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Just saying about the floor plan as if i sheer the bolts holding the subframe up ill have to cut the floor plan and weld something on to that is what ive read up. or is that the big wishbone nut.
All i can see is the bolt head and that's what im putting my ratchet onto, but its just spinning and i can feel on the otherside that theres something spinning with it, but doesnt feel like a fat nut or anything.
All i want to do is put my downpipe on !!! :cry:
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Right so on the floor plan there must have been a welded nut thats basically sheered off the floor itself?
TBH if that has happened and there is noway of getting to it you would need to cut a piece off weld a new retaining nut in the same place so you can do a nut up.
I think you could put enough force on the thread part and get friction to undo it, but still it doesn't solve how you would re bolt up the new bolt and nut. I'm sure there is a simple way of getting to something like that? I've never in all my years ever fecked up a bolt on a golf like the way you have described!
Can you give me a piucture of this bolt and position?
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Ive know it got it jacked up, looking at it, do i have to support the engine as the rear mount connects onto this doesnt it,
Yes, if you jack and support in the same places I have (below), you'll be fine. You have to support the car body, and the subframe itself - so that you can lower it down gently to get the access you need - in my pic, I'm just supporting the rear of the subframe (because I removed the wishbone bolt), but if you are dropping the whole thing you'll need to support it more centrally on both sides and remove the front engine mount support.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/blessani/rearsubframe.jpg)
There is two captive nuts you could have broke off ... neither are fun to fix!
Rear subframe, front captive nut repair - http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=159025
Rear subframe, rear captive nut repair - http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=119517.0
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If the thread is ok I think I would drill a hole small enough to get a socket head to it, much easier to repair the small hole, but getting that hole centred correctly on top is like trying to hear a Nat fart!
And doing it up requires the same just a longer deep socket for thread and two man job tighting it up!
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Ok cheers, think ive confused you, i havnt broke any bolts as of yet, but was just saying if i did brake a bolt then thats what id have to do, which i dont want to do.
, theres 4 bolts which are 13mm, ive just managed to get one off, but it isnt coming out even though the nut is off. I was looking at it and it doesnt even look like its holding the subframe to the car or anything. Its the two bolts in the centre of the pic.
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s108/emery1990/100_1323.jpg)
And will I have to undo this bushing to get subframe out as it looks like that bolt bolts to the subframe, if only one bolt is left to undo on the wishbone i may aswell take them off and treat them as there rusty too!
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s108/emery1990/100_1324.jpg)
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Those two bolts (captive bolts) are what holds the steering rack retaining bracket on.
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If they are captive nuts like Ben had said previously seriously get a mate to hold the nut still, after drilling access to it then underneath undo it!
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I was able to hold the nut with a spanner in the end, it doesn't feel like theres anything attached to it, ill just get all four off and see what happens.
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Yeah how are you going to do them up though?
If the captive nut is loose rattling in the floor plan? :evil:
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What on earth are you actually undoing!? The rear, rear subframe bolt is 19mm (not 21mm), I can't remember what size the front, rear subframe bolt is - but its a damn site bigger than 13mm.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/blessani/persistant_subframe_guy.jpg)
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:embarassed:
ahh well least i knows how to undo the steering rack brackets anyway lol
Ill need to get the frame off of the steering rack though want I? Ill probably have to remove my steering rack to get enough room for my downpipe anyway !
So they captive nut ill prob have problems with and will need a mate to hold it still.
Ill leave it for tonight as i cant see any more, and ive been an idiot and messed you both about thinking i needed to undo them steering rack bolts :embarassed: sorry :kiss:
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Is Ben and I wasting bandwidth again Emery? :evil:
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Haha send me an invoice :embarassed: your info hasnt gone to waste, ill just transfer it other the bolts that are ment to come off.!!
Oh right that captive nut is supposed to be welded on then, but if i snap off the welds then its going to be a pain. The rear one i should be able to get to and hold it still but the front ones out of sight and id have to grind a section away to get at it, so ill take it easy and just try not to snap the front one!!!
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get yourself a breaker bar and go for it and if the worst does happen im sure ive seen a thread on here showing that there is a hole already there to get at the captive nut its just if you want to weld it back on you need to start cutting things to create enough space to get the welder in
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Not sure what is actually going on/being asked anymore, but you don't need to touch anything in order to remove a downpipe or fit a new one. You just need the car high enough in the air to get the angles right to get the downpipe in.
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As mew said with plenty of clearence the down pipe will come out ive done it!. You don't need to lower the subframe
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How high in the air, and drop it from the top. I couldn't of taken it out as it had a resonator on it so i grinded it out, but gotta pout the new one back in.
I just tried going for it just a minute ago but needs a longer bar
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Well mine was up on a ramp and put in from beneath
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Lock this thread, im embarrassed by it :grin: :sad:
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No its my daily entertainment Emery! :tongue:
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I might aswell say what I did lol :grin:
I just removed the exhaust manifold and slipped the downpipe in from the top ! :embarassed:
Least i know in future how to remove a subframe though!
Glad it entertained you though, therell be another one for one im putting my new abf mani/ airbox back on :wink: