GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: chana22 on 04 September 2010, 22:54
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hi to all reading
im after some help with my mk2 golf gti 8v.
recently ive completed a full service on the car, plugs, oil + fliter, air fliter & fuel filter.
the oil grade was 10w-40 which i believe is the correct grade.
ever since the service however, its gradually getting to a stage where everytime im in standing traffic or moving slowly, mellow puffs of smoke is trailing around the car and it smells like burning oil.
can anyone help and tell me if there are any valves i should be checking for blockages??
any kind of help would be great.
thanks in advance
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My valver has just developed the same problem (not recently serviced it like you though) and is now suspect Valve Stem Seals, been told they can be changed while the engines in the car with the correct tools and stuffing about 2 foot of rope in to the spark plug port or using an air compressor.... - Hopefully it's not the stem seals on yours and simply a problem with the oil grade.
You noticed any loss in oil ?
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My valver has just developed the same problem (not recently serviced it like you though) and is now suspect Valve Stem Seals, been told they can be changed while the engines in the car with the correct tools and stuffing about 2 foot of rope in to the spark plug port or using an air compressor.... - Hopefully it's not the stem seals on yours and simply a problem with the oil grade.
You noticed any loss in oil ?
yes unfortuanly i have noticed oil loss. a week ago the oil level was on the correct maximum line. right now its in minimum, and this is my daily driving car.
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My digi does this got so bad couldn see behind. Tis the valve stem seals
As a temporary cure yesterday i put some stop smoke in mine which worked. Some people might advise against it but i plan to put a new lump in mine in the future anyway.
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Likewise buddy, mines my daily driver too which I guess could be considered my mistake lol! I'm hoping to either get a new head or get mine rebuilt! found a company that do it for £230 as detailed below.
What we will do, we will collect your cylinder head from your local garage or home address strip down the head pressure test it decoke it resurface it cut seats fit 16 new valves replace valve stem oil seals and build back up for you and deliver back to you total price with postage and vat invoice [And no hidden costs]
All our cylinder heads come with a 12 months warranty with years or experience.
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£230 is not too bad actually. i was hoping it wasnt anything serious but ah well.
this might sound like a really stupid question but how long can i carry on driving until i HAVE to get it done? months? days? weeks?
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How long can you take the embarresment :grin:
Mine just slowly got worse in the summer,more so on really hot days.
Its been a while in mine which is why i just put stop smoke additive in till i get a new lump.
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Lol yeah I noticed a lot of cars now keep there distance when behind me lol so they don't have to stop behind me at the lights! - I'm sure aslong as you keep your oil levels up you should be alright but then could it affect oil pressure?
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You can drive it for as long as you want with worn stem seals, but as above, its embarrassing as sin, you go through oil at a phenomenal rate and any oil that is left is ends up burnt (therefore useless).
I've done it in-situ a few times, using the rope trick and an air line - both are equally as effective, at least with the rope, you can do 2 cyl at once (1+4, 2+3).
Use GENUINE seals only - or you'll be doing it twice. The seals cost about £3 each and the tools are about £30 (overhead spring compressor and valve stem seal pliers). It takes about 1-2 hours and is very straightforward for a competent DIYer.
Have a look here: http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=49436.msg902396#msg902396
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I ve been through your project thread and read the write up on stem seals and i ve also looked for the tool you used.
When i did find the tool it was for ohv engines.
Did you find a clever way of using a ohv compressor?
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OHV = overhead valves ... its still the same as OHC or DOHC when the cam is gone :)
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http://www.pvrdirect.co.uk/productinfo.aspx?kw=valve%20compressor&tier1=Sealey+Tools&tier2=Vehicle+Service&tier3=Engine+General+Tools&tier4=Cam+%26+Valve+Tools&catref=VS160
or
http://www.pvrdirect.co.uk/productinfo.aspx?kw=valve%20compressor&tier1=Sealey+Tools&tier2=Vehicle+Service&tier3=Engine+General+Tools&tier4=Cam+%26+Valve+Tools&catref=VS168
They both should do the trick (although, I've only used the 1st on a Golf head).
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That guide looks pretty handy although I'm sure I can still stuff it up! I guess if I can get the bus to work I might aswell clean up all my inlet mani/rocker cober etc - I guess if I just do the stem seals etc that should be enough to stop it smoking / oil burning yeah? quick Q how can you tell weather it's stem seals or ring lands for example? (bare in mind I've no power loss and as far as I can see it's smoking mainly while at idle in traffic etc)
Cheers Rich.
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Oh ok thanks for clearing that up ben :wink:
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That guide looks pretty handy although I'm sure I can still stuff it up! I guess if I can get the bus to work I might aswell clean up all my inlet mani/rocker cober etc - I guess if I just do the stem seals etc that should be enough to stop it smoking / oil burning yeah? quick Q how can you tell weather it's stem seals or ring lands for example? (bare in mind I've no power loss and as far as I can see it's smoking mainly while at idle in traffic etc)
Cheers Rich.
Usually, the stem seals will leak down whenever the car is idle. So if you park the car overnight, then start it in the morning and there's a big cloud of smoke, it usually indicates stem seals. The same rule applies if you are sat at a set of traffic lights and go to pull away, and there is an accompanying cloud!
I test rings using a compression tester. Do a dry compression test, then put a teaspoon of oil down the spark hole and repeat (this is called a wet compression test). If the compression is noticeably higher - its a sign the rings are worn.
Stem seals are quick and easy. Rings require a reasonable amount of strip-down, honing, de-glazing and possible re-boring (not so much of a DIY job).
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I see... hmmm! I'm hoping it is the stem seals but thinking about it, it could be the rings since the car smokes lightly on idle (not a huge fog or anything) but then I guess it could just be the oil that's left in the exhaust when I've driven and come to a stand still? Will see if I can either get a compression kit or get someone to do it for me! If it's the rings would it be cheaper to simply replace the whole engine?
thanks for the help buddy, seem very helpful - I guess worse case if replacing the stem seals don't sort it then it's got to be the rings and would be easier/cheaper to get a replacement block? now on to the next question and sorry to high jack your thread btw - Can you replace rings with the block still in the car?
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Can you replace rings with the block still in the car?
Yes.
If it's the rings would it be cheaper to simply replace the whole engine
Depends on how cheap you can get a whole engine (and if it is shagged or not!)
Will see if I can either get a compression kit or get someone to do it for me!
They're £20 from Halfords, buy one and put it in your toolbox, its cheap and useful.
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Thanks for that Ben, your an asset to this site! I'll pop down to halfords at some point and see what I can do!
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no not hi-jacking at all. your asking all the questions i need answers to
ben...your a star..thank you very much!
and thanks lingl9z for your input...a great help!
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thanks chana22 :) got me one step closer to sorting this! even if I've opted to get the bus to work until it's sorted! :P