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General => Car audio => Topic started by: mellow yellow on 22 August 2010, 19:29
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i had a little tinker round yesterday and decided to disconnect the dash speakers coz they sound poo. but when i did the door speakers cut out, so i guess they are wired in a circuit, so for the time being i have baffled them with some electrical tape :lipsrsealed:
is there a way to disconnect the dash speakers without the door speakers cutting out???
the door speakers (jbl mids and tweets via crossover) are just run off the head unit at the moment, but will be amped up soon......
which leads me onto my next question....
i have an amp in the boot running my sub and also want to amp my comps for which i have a separate amp, its only a cheapo one but will do til funds allow a better one.
my question is i know i can split the output from the head unit but can i also split the power and remote or do i have to run second cables through the car. i've got another wiring kit but am lazy and would prefer not to run it all through the car again.
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Power and earth to a distribution block then runs from dizzy block to amps.
What size power cables do you have? & what is the current draw of both amps (fuse rating)?
If for instance you have 2 amps that have 50-60a fuses each you'd need 4awg to dizzy, then could get away with 8awg from dizzy to amp.
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not really sure to be honest, just bought them as kits a few years back?
i'm guessing then that i will have to upgrade the wiring then, so i may as well just run a second set of cables through the car for the second amp.
any ideas about the dash speakers?
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Dash speakers ~ do what I did! :grin:
As you are going to amp your door comps that leaves the front channel of your headunit free.
So fit some decent mid/tweets and run them off the HU.
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Running tweeters directly off a Hu isn't advised.
Tweeters only like high frequencies. Unless you can 'crossover' the speaker outputs of the HU high enough to just supply the high freqs the tweets like you risk damaging your tweeters. Also your HU will run speakers at 4ohms if the tweeters show a lower impedance you risk blowing the outputs of the HU.
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Good job I have used MID/TWEETS then! :rolleyes:
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What's mid/tweets?
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http://www.alpine-electronics.co.uk/products/product-singleview/type-g-speakers/spg-10c2.html
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A coax. Yeah didn't know that's what you meant.
Coax's on dash, components in doors.
I personally believe comps set up right are the best option. I've got nothing in the dash holes.
Tweeters are on a pillar, mids are in doors, crossovers behind glove box, amp in rear 3/4.
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Your system is only as good as it's weakest component
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I dont want to put anything in the dash len, hense why i want to disconnect them :wink:
i have my comps mounted in the original speaker holes and the tweeters are mounted on the flat bit of the door pocket facing up. it sounds very good, just lacks a bit of mid bass, so i think when i have amped them i will make some o rings for the comps and sound deaden the doors?
so how do i disconnect the dash speakers without the doors cutting out?
another q i have is that since i've connected my amp for the sub i've not been able to get the radio, any ideas???
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OK
Well from what I remember there are 4 wires on the door speakers, 2 from the HU and 2 that go up to the dash tweeters.
So you will have to cut them from the block connector and either do it by trial and error or find one of several threads on here that give the colour codes of those wires!
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OK
Well from what I remember there are 4 wires on the door speakers, 2 from the HU and 2 that go up to the dash tweeters.
So you will have to cut them from the block connector and either do it by trial and error or find one of several threads on here that give the colour codes of those wires!
cheers bud, i don't like cutting wires, i'm bound to feck something up :embarassed: think i'll leave it as is for now :smiley: