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General => Cosmetic and bodywork matters => Topic started by: Rhyso on 12 July 2010, 14:03
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Had my valence painted twice now and still its getting chipped to fook :angry:
Originally I sprayed it myself with some Halfords rattle cans then when it was in for the new boot lid I had it re-done
Sadly 3 months down the line and it looks like an acne riddled teenager :sad:
Any paint recommendations out there? once thing I didn't do when I painted it myself was to put lacquer on it - is it needed at all or should I just some of that stone chip protection film and apply that after I've sprayed it :undecided:
Cheers
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You can get spray on stonechip paint that you then overcoat.
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/UPOL-GRAVITEX-BLACK-PAINTABLE-STONECHIP-COATING-1LTR-/260625131487?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item3cae77e7df
Or
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CAR-BODY-STONECHIP-PROTECTOR-GREY-CANBEOVERPAINTED-gt-/150313491332?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item22ff61db84
Help this helps
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Thanks Wayne
To clarify, you paint the valance first with this stuff and then paint in the colour you require the finish in :undecided:
How does that stop it chipping though :undecided:
Ta
:smiley:
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Thanks Wayne
To clarify, you paint the valance first with this stuff and then paint in the colour you require the finish in :undecided:
How does that stop it chipping though :undecided:
Ta
:smiley:
Yep rub the valance down, then this and then topcoat, the stonechip paint dry's to a rubber like finish and is very tough, have used it on sills etc before.
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Thanks Wayne
To clarify, you paint the valance first with this stuff and then paint in the colour you require the finish in :undecided:
How does that stop it chipping though :undecided:
Ta
:smiley:
Yep rub the valance down, then this and then topcoat, the stonechip paint dry's to a rubber like finish and is very tough, have used it on sills etc before.
Tidy
What's the best way to apply as I notice they aren't aerosols - just a paint brush?
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Thanks Wayne
To clarify, you paint the valance first with this stuff and then paint in the colour you require the finish in :undecided:
How does that stop it chipping though :undecided:
Ta
:smiley:
Yep rub the valance down, then this and then topcoat, the stonechip paint dry's to a rubber like finish and is very tough, have used it on sills etc before.
Tidy
What's the best way to apply as I notice they aren't aerosols - just a paint brush?
Yep or some work with air fed guns as well.
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Thanks Wayne
Think I'll order some up and give it a go
Cheers :smiley:
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No worries, always happy to help if I can
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Stone Chip paint is great on sills, but useless on plastic.
It's there to give some extra protection to the metal and a bit of elasticity to "bounce" stones away. This protects metal panels such as sills, but it won't really stop the colour or clear coat getting chipped.
OEM paint has had weeks/months to cure before it gets to you so has a pretty solid finish. A refinished panel will always be more prone to chipping as it isn't fully cured by the time you start to drive the vehicle. The more professional the job, the better and more resilient the paint (or lacquer to be precise) will be. Therefore rattle-cans chip easily, fully cured professional job less easy but still not great in the first few weeks.
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Stone Chip paint is great on sills, but useless on plastic.
It's there to give some extra protection to the metal and a bit of elasticity to "bounce" stones away. This protects metal panels such as sills, but it won't really stop the colour or clear coat getting chipped.
OEM paint has had weeks/months to cure before it gets to you so has a pretty solid finish. A refinished panel will always be more prone to chipping as it isn't fully cured by the time you start to drive the vehicle. The more professional the job, the better and more resilient the paint (or lacquer to be precise) will be. Therefore rattle-cans chip easily, fully cured professional job less easy but still not great in the first few weeks.
So basically remove it from car, paint and leave it cure for a couple of weeks is the best way?
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Stone Chip paint is great on sills, but useless on plastic.
It's there to give some extra protection to the metal and a bit of elasticity to "bounce" stones away. This protects metal panels such as sills, but it won't really stop the colour or clear coat getting chipped.
OEM paint has had weeks/months to cure before it gets to you so has a pretty solid finish. A refinished panel will always be more prone to chipping as it isn't fully cured by the time you start to drive the vehicle. The more professional the job, the better and more resilient the paint (or lacquer to be precise) will be. Therefore rattle-cans chip easily, fully cured professional job less easy but still not great in the first few weeks.
So basically remove it from car, paint and leave it cure for a couple of weeks is the best way?
Sorry when you said valance I was thinking metal
Yep remove it and paint but leave it for a few weeks.
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So basically remove it from car, paint and leave it cure for a couple of weeks is the best way?
Spot on.
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So basically remove it from car, paint and leave it cure for a couple of weeks is the best way?
Spot on.
That makes no sense at all :lipsrsealed:
I'm guessing that the damage was done over a period of time last winter, with roads being gritted and salted to the hilt, and pothole debris being thrown at the valence in question...
Cure, strip it back to plastic, have a paintshop apply the correct primer for the plastic, the 2/3 coats of high build primer, with a plasticizer flexiable additive added, then colour (some systems don't need a flexible additive in the colour) again with plasticizer added, then 2coats of Lacquer, again with flexible additive mixed in, this is about the best chance that you have using any paint system, but trust me, it wont last, 2 weeks to dry, or not!
If it were me, I'd get it painted, and cover it with "Helicopter Tape" job done, and almost invisible, and when it gets tatty, just peel it off, and re do it
http://www.tridentracing.co.uk/info/various.htm
Thom
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So basically remove it from car, paint and leave it cure for a couple of weeks is the best way?
Spot on.
That makes no sense at all :lipsrsealed:
Don't know why, I thought I explained it pretty well. I'm not quite sure where you're coming from with your "plasticizer flexiable additive".
I can recommend these guys depending on where you are http://www.chipguard.co.uk/ (http://www.chipguard.co.uk/) However, they'll tell you that the paint must be fully cured before application. They also have a top quality bodyshop so will do the whole job for you if you want. Not cheap, but good quality.