GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: mk2bal on 06 July 2010, 18:54
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my kjet abf doesnt seem to be starting too well recently, it doesnt hold revs and misfires for the 1st 30seconds, then runs sweet. it was recently rr'd, made 160 bhp, but he didnt have it from cold to setup, it was warm when i arrived obviously. i have slid that small tube out the front of the airbox though, for a nice induction noise, could this make a difference at all?
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might be a problem with the accumulator or pump non-return valve so fuel pressure isnt maintained and fuel is vapourising in the lines. cant really test for this unless you have a k-jet fuel pressure testing kit tho im afraid :(
other thing it could be is leaky injectors, are they original MK2 ones or have they been replaced?
worth disconnecting the 5th injector to see if that helps, if not try the wur next.
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its only when its sat through the night. this morning it was very grey/blue smokey, and was misfiring etc. i got out for a look and it abso stunk of fuel (the smoke that is). i had a look under the bonnet, and did notice some fuel seepage from the bottom of the metering head, where it sits on the airbox. not a leak as such- ya know just a bit moist.. i disconnected the cold start injector when i smelt the exhaust fumes cos i presumed it was too rich and was flooded?.. this afternoon (after sitting on a mates drive all day) it fired strate up, no probs, and no smoke. it runs clear and goes fast when warm. the cold start inj is still disconnected so ill c how it starts in the morning, then i can blame/eliminate the csi.. is the gasket between airbox and m/head available still, and is it simple enough to fit without disturbing any thing or any settings on m/head?
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the seal is still available and is easy to replace, undo 3 bolts on top and swap over its just an o'ring. however, even if this seal was missing fuel should not leak out from underneath, this is a sign that the metering head is dead :(
is it definitly leaking out the bottom of the metering head and not just one of the pipes? also is it definitly petrol and not oil
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hmmm. it looks like a residue, so could be oil or petrol, i must say it doesnt really smell majorly petroly, i just presumed it was fuel as its on the bottom of the m/h. i can see a bit of a cork type gasket there though, sandwiched between the mh and airbox. where would oil come from?the crankcase breather back feeding down the pipe? also, car starts fine now the csi is unplugged. the rr man said i had a prob wit the ecu that controls the overrun so he blocked the overrun off, so does that also do the cold start?
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ah thats a different seal to the one i was thingking, i was on about oring between the fuel bit and air bit. the cork gasket is easily replaced a frew fixings once upper half of airbox is lifted, but its probably fine so id not bother replacing. the oil will be coming from the breather, common issue on these so nothing to worry about. i bet the inside of the airbox will be filthy! pop the pipe off and give it plus the airbox a damn good clean. there will be a wee wire mesh ball stuffed into the pipe so dont worry if you find it. clean it out and replace :)
if its better with 5th inj unplugged that would suggest a fuel injector leak or perhaps the 5th inj thermoswitch has failed, thats the big brown 2 pin switch on side of head towards the back.
over-run valve doesnt effect cold start unless its giving you an air leak, when these fail it makes the engine cut out randomly when driving along and can make it hard to fire up, but it will be hard to fire both when cold and hot rather than only on a cold start.
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ive noticed after reading about all 3 senders on the side of head should be white/beige and 1 on the back for oil temp black, i have two white and 1 black on the side, and 1 black on back. if the rr man said somethin was up with the ecu behind centre console maybe its cos of that sensor being the wrong 1? have got a spare engine so will swap it for another 2mrw. yeah im gonna block the airbox hole and put that pipe into a can or bottle or somethin cos i cant be dealing with the oil doin the filter and box in..
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other way round chap, the 3 on the side should be black and one on back should be white. this could certainly cause problems as the black and white sensors are different ratings. black are coolant temp, white are oil temp
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rite well i mustve been shot-away when i swapped em over from engine to engine! will try again later! bit of a change of subject, but how accurate do the rear beam bushes have to be aligned before theyre pressed in? is it like 1 degree perfect or is there a small margin for error? just wanna know before i give it a go...i think we need an ask rj direct button on here!
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hopefully this should help, just try to get it as close as you can should be fine :)
http://www.oneilcastro.com/A2Bentley/SU01/ch6.3.2.html
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nice 1 rj. much appreciated. new problem with the abf for ya! had the starting problem recently, not half as bad with the csi unplugged, but now im getting det in 4th and 5th under load with throttle. as soon as i let off it goes, and as soon as i squeeze it more it comes back.. been back to rr man, he knows about the wur trick, said it had the right pressure and flow when he tuned it, its just 3-4 weeks later (now) its started happening. he said 1st thing is to check the pressure etc, but at 50 an hour plus vat i dont want him to be diagnosing it, id rather have half an idea before i give it to him. aint got access to guages to check it, so he'll have to really, but any ideas of things i can check before hand? the car seems to perform exactly as it did when rr'd , still fast etc. i raced an ibiza cupra r the other day, n was flat out for ages neck n neck with it, quite chuffed cos it wasnt standard, but the problems have come along since... maybe i shouldnt of had it with him after all
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hmm you have been using proper 97 ron fuel right? if so then id be inclined to agree that you need to start checking the fuel pressure. it could be a fault with the injectors though, especially if they are originals. you can test em easily enough, whip all 4 out and pop each one into a container, try to get 4 seethru ones the same size as it makes things easier to measure. jump the fuel pump relay, then lift the metering flap all the way open, then allow it to close. all 4 should have a nice even cone of fuel, and the volumes should be the same on all 4. switch off the fuel pump then wipe the tips, watch em for a couple o minutes and non of em should leak.
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yeah its always on at least 97, think its on v power or tesco's finest at the mo.. i cleaned a few tiny specs of crud off the metering flap,and a bit of oil out of inlet pipe etc last nite, seems to be better today, havent heard on way to/from work. i do think itll be back tho as quick as it came/went! thing is the car seems to run so sweet, when i drop to idle slowing down i have to check it aint cut out, its that smooth and quiet! really stumped?!
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id be on the look out for any vac leaks, especially the small ones dotted around the engine. check in all the grooves in the inlet boots, they like to hid splits deep in the folds. when i was doing my conversion i had a box with 3 or 4 complete hoses in and only 1 was split free! once all that checks out get your co looked at, they like to run at 2% :)