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Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: gti_shaun on 21 May 2010, 00:59
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right been having boot problems for a while now, i can stick my foot down and it goes to 21psi then as revs rise the boost drops off sometime worse than others, ive had it leak checked etc and even made a tester and put 21psi in my system and its all air tight, anyway i rigger a camera up to watch my actuator as it had to be throwing my boost(turn your volume down!) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xjmg8qk3gYU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xjmg8qk3gYU)
the audio is to slow(youtube for you) but as you can see it is moving as the revs rise, so the n75 is doing this, i have a (F)version (New one aswell) it had (C) version when mapped(when it was rapid.lol) i have ko3s so should i have the (J) version, my head is a mess with this weird fault, im thinking it must need a diffrent valve to keep the boost there to redline?? HELP ANYONE!!!
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Hello.Mines the same m8. :cry: aum stage 1 r tech.jus not like wen it wa mapped.First few days,AWERSOME.Today i have changed my n75f for a new 1!!Didnt even bother with h,j,k versions.It was mapped on f so in opinion stick with the original from what i have read.TBH theres no difference :angry: runs super smooth,not as rapid though!Just maybe needs a service after the mapping? mines was mapped 6 months ago .still pulls well but like you say not as rapid :undecided:let e know if you get any results cheers.
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Im running a R-Tech map on a AGU engine fitted with a K03s Turbo
Boost peaks at 22psi but the drops off to 18psi and holds. This is how it should be.
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have you tried taking the n75 out of the equation to eliminate a weak actuator spring?
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yeah if i clamp off the actuator pipe it boosts like fook, what can cause the n75 decide to back off the boost? pinking or engine knock or if it was pinking would it give nearly no boost?
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i have the same issue, stage 1 rtech gen4 map, but my turbo is blown so dont drive with foot down, im doin a k04 upgrade very soon so im hoping after its complete the problem will be gone, my boost drops as the revs increase so i just assumed as my turbo's blow it was just struggling to create more boost to feed the engine as the revs increase
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when you say your turbos blown, is your car smoking? or do you have excess play in shaft?
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smoking when ticking over for a while, like when im at traffic lights or traffic
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you say you clamp off the actuator pipe?? have you floored it at high revs when clamped?? did it still hold boost?
do you have a boost gauge?? what boost did it hit when clamped off just curious
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i cant remember if it holds when clampted, i hope so or else id say my turbo was at fault, i will go do some testing in a bit if i can.
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i wouldnt recommend flooring it when youve clampe the actuator off mate that on its own can burn your turbo out
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id say faulty n75 valve then
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you say you clamp off the actuator pipe?? have you floored it at high revs when clamped?? did it still hold boost?
do you have a boost gauge?? what boost did it hit when clamped off just curious
well went on test, and it backs off boost still with the actuator pipe clamped if not quicker, will this be because the engine cant use the boost so the wastegate gets forced open with the exhaust gases.
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id say faulty n75 valve then
brand new n75 valve f, which valve you run?
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the f valve, i had all of them c,f,h,j,k and the f gave the best results
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the f valve, i had all of them c,f,h,j,k and the f gave the best results
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cool, glad i stuck with the standard one then, whats your boost hold like and go to now, is it always sameor do you find it feels that bit faster when its hot weather? i had like 2 weeks of my car being rapid after map, its been nothing but trouble since then, it getting there now i would like to thing as before new n75 it was only getting 18psi at best now its 21psi but drops as revs rise, its really annoying me now.
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ive got a boost leak at the moment but i used to hit 22psi then drop off to 18psi then hold, it is a stage 1 remap youve got? if so then i dont think you should be hitting 21psi maybe turbo problems?
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ive got a boost leak at the moment but i used to hit 22psi then drop off to 18psi then hold, it is a stage 1 remap youve got? if so then i dont think you should be hitting 21psi maybe turbo problems?
stage 2 remap,225bhp on the day and for 2 whole weeks to.lol. then my maf went then my n75 not what ever this is.
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just done some more camera runs watching the actuator and it does not look like the actuator moves when the vac/control hose is clamped off but the boost still drops off form 21psi all way down to about 8-9psi at 6000rpm(2nd gear from 2000rpm) it drops off the boost fasted with the pipe clamped so it would sound like some kind of leak as it has more boost(air) available when actuator cant move so where ever my boost is going or what ever is happening its the same fault just high lighting it more. so im swaying towards a turbo fault, any one got any idea??
vid here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BoCLyzR3SY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BoCLyzR3SY)
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downpipe off and look for cracks inside the turbo :undecided:
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have you seen this happen before? yeah think i am going to have to drop down pipe.
i know for a fact i have a small leak mani to turbo which im going to sort, i cant hear the blow but when i fire up from cold and put my finger there and blip the revs i can feel a small blow but i would not of thought it would be enough not to spool the turbo enough.
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Im running a R-Tech map on a AGU engine fitted with a K03s Turbo
Boost peaks at 22psi but the drops off to 18psi and holds. This is how it should be.
Can i ask how long it holds for,are you still at 18psi in the high revs?
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have you seen this happen before? yeah think i am going to have to drop down pipe.
i know for a fact i have a small leak mani to turbo which im going to sort, i cant hear the blow but when i fire up from cold and put my finger there and blip the revs i can feel a small blow but i would not of thought it would be enough not to spool the turbo enough.
A small blow will cause issues, The ko3/ko3s are prone to crack I rare to find one without any.
The best way to see whats going on is log the actual and requested load vs the N75DC%, If the load reading is too high the ecu will back the N75 off. Load reading can be too high due to a maf over reading or of a sensor reading wrong and causing an offset in load.
Nick
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does agu have requested load?
ive done so many tests and stuff its unreal, and when i clamp off the pipe to n75 the one from boost pipe( so it doesnt see boost so thefore it does not move the actator) and it still drops boost as the revs go up to the point if 7psi at 6000 rpm, drops faster when n75 pipe is clamped so to me this says there it turbo prob, but ive had the intake off and there isnt and unwanted play in the turbo, its really confusing me now, ive put 21psi in the system and the only leak is the normal blow by when you pull dipstick out.
what about oxygen sensor as when i drive it like i stole it for a while it gets faster like the sensor is lazy when its not red hot or something.
i had it mapped by yourself in feb and it was only right for 2 week then had lack of power ever since what chance of booking in for a rolling road to see if you can find the fault nick? when i came up last time you put that maf on and all seemed good for a few hours, its like it learns the maf values than goes slow again.
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does agu have requested load?
VAGCOM and log block 25 in the engine module :nerd:
Works a treat; watched Nick log an AGU on Wednesday and what vagcom showed was reproduced on the rolling road!
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Thanks i will have a look at the load, it is like it does not know its for load on it, as it drops like a b!tch in second gear but not as much it 3rd etc.what was up with the car you watched nick do on wednesday?
pm'd you nick
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Thanks i will have a look at the load, it is like it does not know its for load on it, as it drops like a b!tch in second gear but not as much it 3rd etc.what was up with the car you watched nick do on wednesday?
pm'd you nick
The car had a KO3s fitted but half the intercooler pipework was leaking, as was a couple of the vac pipes and the TIP was practically hanging off!!
You could see the car request load but then never reach it due to boost leaks
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Im running a R-Tech map on a AGU engine fitted with a K03s Turbo
Boost peaks at 22psi but the drops off to 18psi and holds. This is how it should be.
Can i ask how long it holds for,are you still at 18psi in the high revs?
Bump
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i will do a log and post it then, 2000rpm to 6000rpm 2nd gear be okay then maybe do another in 3rd gear same.
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Right done some logs, is there a easier way to put the logs up rather than copy paste and mess about spacing everthing out so its readable?
anyway this is third gear flooring it from below rpm and going to forth for a short while, i did a few diffrent logs but to many slow ass sunday drivers on the country roads grrr, i thing the spec load compared to actual is pretty good and i dont see a problem, what do you lot think? please feel free if you have a agu ko3s to do some logs to compare, that would be a great help. :smiley:
06A 906 018 CG 1.8L R4/5VT MOTR HS D02
Spec. load Load correc. Actual load Valve cycle Engine speed Ign. timing
TIME 3-8 m/s 0-8 m/s 0.5-8 m/s 0-99% 0-6800 rpm
0.36 11.05 10.1 10.1 79.3 3440 15
0.87 10.95 11.05 10.35 82.8 3640 16.5
1.37 10.9 10.95 10.45 84 3880 18.8
1.87 10.85 10.85 10.45 86.3 4040 20.3
2.37 10.75 10.8 10.4 86.3 4280 21
2.87 10.7 10.7 10.5 87.9 4480 21.8
3.37 10.5 10.55 10.35 89.5 4680 22.5
3.87 10.3 10.35 10.2 91.4 4880 21
4.37 10.05 10.1 10 93.4 5040 24
4.87 9.8 9.85 9.95 92.6 5240 23.3
5.37 9.55 9.6 9.7 91.8 5440 22.5
5.87 9.35 9.4 9.5 91 5080 31.5
6.37 8.15 6.15 4.55 61.7 4400 21
6.87 10.7 10.3 10.5 87.5 4400 17.3
7.37 10.65 10.6 10.5 89.1 4520 33
7.87 5.05 10.6 2.2 0 4280 33
8.37 5.1 10.6 1.3 0 4240 33
8.87 5.15 10.6 1.2 0 4160 33
9.36 5.15 10.6 1.2 0 4120 33
9.87 5.2 10.6 0.8 0 4040 33
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bump :wink:
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bump :wink:
Hello you need to email me the full log so i can open it with my software.
Nick
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ok i will go and do some longer logs and mail then to you thanks nick :smiley:
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ok i will go and do some longer logs and mail then to you thanks nick :smiley:
do at least 4 runs from 2000rpm to 6000rpm - gives you a clearer picture of whats going on :smiley:
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and graphs too, will be doing some myself once my new netbook battery arrives :wink:
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whats up with your AGU wazzzer?
sent the logs to nick, hope he can shed some light or im going to burn the f**ker! (the car i mean not nick.lol)
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i think i am having the same issue with my aum turbo had ot remapped and fitted a boost gague was peaking about 18-19psi and holding around 17psi, now 18months later (only done 7-8k miles since remap) the boost is down to 16-17psi at peak and hold at around 15psi.
N75 at fault? would getting a ECS race n75 value be nessacary with a remap?
http://www.awesome-gti.co.uk/product.php?xProd=11033
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ive got a brand new n75 which helped as it would not even peak at 21psi as it should with old one, but them race valve of which you speak are just a rip off as its just a h valve from a 2.7 twin turbo audi iirc, with a sticker on them and they charge 20 + quid more. mine got mapped on the standard valve (C) and was fine and now i have (F) which replace (C) valve at vw.
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i got a funny feeling, mine has been having simular issues and i have a feeling its down to a dodgy pcv valve. could i be barking up the wrong tree? as i was just thinking if it was stuck open then some of the boost would leak back to the TIP and i think thats the issue i am seeing. im going to replace it next week and see how it goes.
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ive got a brand new n75 which helped as it would not even peak at 21psi as it should with old one, but them race valve of which you speak are just a rip off as its just a h valve from a 2.7 twin turbo audi iirc, with a sticker on them and they charge 20 + quid more. mine got mapped on the standard valve (C) and was fine and now i have (F) which replace (C) valve at vw.
where can i get a F valve from? audi s3? or tt? mk5? and how much did yours cost you around £50?
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ive got a brand new n75 which helped as it would not even peak at 21psi as it should with old one, but them race valve of which you speak are just a rip off as its just a h valve from a 2.7 twin turbo audi iirc, with a sticker on them and they charge 20 + quid more. mine got mapped on the standard valve (C) and was fine and now i have (F) which replace (C) valve at vw.
where can i get a F valve from? audi s3? or tt? mk5? and how much did yours cost you around £50?
VW have the (F) version they are all the same part number im lead to belive with just the letter at the end being different, its the standard AGU one, they may say its a (C) when you go VW by when it comes it will be a (F), hope this helps :smiley:
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i got a funny feeling, mine has been having simular issues and i have a feeling its down to a dodgy pcv valve. could i be barking up the wrong tree? as i was just thinking if it was stuck open then some of the boost would leak back to the TIP and i think thats the issue i am seeing. im going to replace it next week and see how it goes.
in your case you may be right but mine was replaced as the pipe was split, it is the one below the manifold right? and i have made a boost leak tester and mines ok. let us know how you get on mate :wink:
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ive got a brand new n75 which helped as it would not even peak at 21psi as it should with old one, but them race valve of which you speak are just a rip off as its just a h valve from a 2.7 twin turbo audi iirc, with a sticker on them and they charge 20 + quid more. mine got mapped on the standard valve (C) and was fine and now i have (F) which replace (C) valve at vw.
where can i get a F valve from? audi s3? or tt? mk5? and how much did yours cost you around £50?
VW have the (F) version they are all the same part number im lead to belive with just the letter at the end being different, its the standard AGU one, they may say its a (C) when you go VW by when it comes it will be a (F), hope this helps :smiley:
I have a AUM engin, do you have the same? just wondered so that if i go to vw and ask for a AGU N75 valve they dont sell me the same that i have already got?
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no mine is AGU, nick at r-tech always says you should stick with the one that is on the car standard as it matches the Characteristics of the turbo so if you need a new one buy the one that comes up when you give them your reg at vw.
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Them load logs dint look to bad, just missing the over shoot.
can you see what throttle valve openning you are getting and check the AIT temps are reading about right.
Nick
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Them load logs dint look to bad, just missing the over shoot.
can you see what throttle valve opening you are getting and check the AIT temps are reading about right.
Nick
thanks for looking for me :smiley:, i will check throttle and temp, ive noticed my car is faster if its a hot day and seems to boost more and hold more, which is strange as colder is the better air density???? :undecided: and if i start it up and let it warm up for a while its faster also? :undecided:?
so it does sound like a temp related issue, ive watched intake temp before and throttle angle but i will have another go, ive got a new gasket for between manifold and turbo just have to find time to fit it, im starting to think if may be down to that small blow as the lamda readings will be off for starters.
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can you see what throttle valve opening you are getting
:laugh:
ive got a new gasket for between manifold and turbo just have to find time to fit it
good luck with that :undecided:
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When you fitting your new aeros then wazzzer :laugh:
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gotta pay for them yet :grin:
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gotta pay for them yet :grin:
lol :laugh:
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At last you have some :afro: i forgot to pm you Wes about aero's still couldn't get any :rolleyes: and with the issues this week it went over my head :lipsrsealed: :embarassed:
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can you see what throttle valve opening you are getting
:laugh:
ive got a new gasket for between manifold and turbo just have to find time to fit it
good luck with that :undecided:
That bad to fit in situ then? i was hoping downpipe off to check for cracks on turbo, then three turbo bolts out, loosten turbo off with water and oil pipes on and then try and clean mani and turbo mating surfaced by sliding sand paper inbetween, slide new gasket inbetween, tighted up ans bobs ur uncle fannys your aunt, not the case then?