GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Skid on 21 April 2010, 13:10
-
Hi guys,
I'm in the middle of an ABF conversion utilising a SEAT Cordoba donor.
Current stage is refurb of front subframes and lower arms and will be poly bushed.
Question 1 Is it worth seam welding the lower arms? Is it all the way around the horizontal line sandwiching the 2 parts, or just stitch welding in certain places?
Question2 I saw some lower arms once which had been professionally extended by 15mm as was 'better for alignment' Any one any experince on this?
Question 3 On the main front subframe is it worth adding an additional strut brace? Any reccomendations or just weld a section in? I appreciate it will make oil draining a but messy but as long as I can get a spanner in I don't mind. Anyone any pics???
Question 4 There's a huge block bolted to the subframe that sits below the offside drive shaft. I'm about to hack this off, but anyone any idea what it's for? Vibration damping or to stop the drive shaft hitting the road if it fails???
Question 5 The front subframe - I was going to take out the engine mount and weld on a section of tube with a flat top but I've been advised against this as the subframe is thin perssed metal and it might tear out. I was thinking I could add some additional webs for supports. Again anyone any experience?
Question 6 If I do go solid mount on the front subframe is it worth keeping OEM bushing on front subfram only, any gain/loss on polly bushing this section?
Question 7 As the ABF is 15mm taller than other blocks, I'm struggling sourcing a tubular manifold long enough and that wont foul the Mk2 floorpan/bulhead. Any one any advice on sourcing one, or will getting shorter rear mounts help? Again, best source for these? By the way I'm replacing this becasue my cast manifold is cracked otherwise I may have left it.
Phew quite a list :)
Thanks in advance for any replies :)
Mark
-
1. ive seen both fully welded and stitch welded ones before but cant really say which is best
2. dont bother, just fit MK3 4 stud wishbones, direct swap and already about 16mm longer. also need to change the track rods and shafts. 1.8-2.0 8v for the shafts, track rods may as well buy new. just get the right ones for your rack, i.e. if manual get manual mk3, if pas get pas mk3.
3. do you mean between the wishbone bolts? I've seen these on ebay and those who have fitted recon they help, your call
4. vibration damper, you can remove it if you like
5. I have seen this done before, if you wanted to do it to the SEAT subframe i dont think it will fit the MK2, so check its the same before you spend any time modifying it.
6. I've got solid mount with 180k old bushes, no movement to speak of. unless they look knackered I dont think its worth replacing them really
7. Speak to TSR, they recently had a load of custom MK2 ABF 4 branch manifolds made by miltek :)
-
Question 1 Is it worth seam welding the lower arms? Is it all the way around the horizontal line sandwiching the 2 parts, or just stitch welding in certain places?
I felt it was a lot different and I welded in 10mm sections, with 10mm gaps around the whole wishbone.
Question2 I saw some lower arms once which had been professionally extended by 15mm as was 'better for alignment' Any one any experince on this?
That sounds like a wide-track conversion and you'd want Golf3/Passat lower arms and track-rods for that, not welded-on extensions.
Question 3 On the main front subframe is it worth adding an additional strut brace? Any reccomendations or just weld a section in? I appreciate it will make oil draining a but messy but as long as I can get a spanner in I don't mind. Anyone any pics???
I would have thought seam-welding the sub-frame while it's off might give you the same result.
Question 4 There's a huge block bolted to the subframe that sits below the offside drive shaft. I'm about to hack this off, but anyone any idea what it's for? Vibration damping or to stop the drive shaft hitting the road if it fails???
It's a vibration damper, as far as I'm aware.
Take it off.
If the car resonates or vibrates, bolt it back on.
If it doesn't then you have a handy press anvil (I have about 3 or 4 of them).
Question 5 The front subframe - I was going to take out the engine mount and weld on a section of tube with a flat top but I've been advised against this as the subframe is thin perssed metal and it might tear out. I was thinking I could add some additional webs for supports. Again anyone any experience?
Ewww, that's nasty.
Question 6 If I do go solid mount on the front subframe is it worth keeping OEM bushing on front subfram only, any gain/loss on polly bushing this section?
I really wouldn't go solid-mount. New OEM should tighten things up pretty well. Anything more and you're going move stresses to other places, rather than where they should be.
Question 7 As the ABF is 15mm taller than other blocks, I'm struggling sourcing a tubular manifold long enough and that wont foul the Mk2 floorpan/bulhead. Any one any advice on sourcing one, or will getting shorter rear mounts help? Again, best source for these? By the way I'm replacing this becasue my cast manifold is cracked otherwise I may have left it.
I thought TSR had just done a batch of these.
Alternatively get some 10-15mm plate cut to the shape of the downpipe flange and use that to space the downpipe.
-
DH and Rubjonny
Thanks - the perfect knowledgable and succinct replies.
-
Hi guys, can i ask a really dumb question please?... wait for it...
What is an abf conversion? :huh:
-
it might be A Bloody F*cking hard project, but then it might not.
I'll let you know after
:grin:
-
Hi guys, can i ask a really dumb question please?... wait for it...
What is an abf conversion? :huh:
ABF 2 litre 16v engine fitted to the mk2 with a wee bit of jiggery pokery...
-
Weekend engine conversion: the Golf3 16V motor with proper management on it.
-
Weekend engine conversion: the Golf3 16V motor with proper management on it.
A many weekend engine conversion when you realise you can take bits off and start porting and polishing, then welding and poly bushing, and painting and cutting and more welding and ebay sourcing and decompressing and and and and................
Oh dear - original plan and budget about as relevant as Gordon Brown's at the moment! :smiley:
-
How far down the rabbit hole are you going?
-
Sounds like you're cracking on with it Mark. When it comes to getting the blighter in the MKII give me a shout and I'll lend you my hands again.
nick
-
How far down the rabbit hole are you going?
ha ha - a pun on the Yankee golf naming?
As much as I wanted a 'VW' golf upgrade, I've fallen headlong and it's becoming a mix n match upgrade, but what the hell, I'll get something better and for a bit more money, a lot more car. Or so the plan goes anyway.
So how far down the hole? I've sourced a rebuilt, ported and heat treated M62 eaton with a fixed wheel (no clutch), am having the head ported for high flow, a cam change to aid supercharging, (still being researched), a cut and shut inlet manifold, add in megasquirt, ARP bolts and decompressing, then probably a TSR hybrid Mk2 ABF manifold, then it's been a proper exercise.
Chassis wise wishbones in process of welding reinforcement, maybe for the subframe too, then powder coating. Bearings, bushes, ball joints, cam belt, blah blah blah will all be renewed.
Strut bracing a sensible addition and eventually will get around to suspension, though some way off researching this yet.
Clutch will be sorted to cope, and finally a LSD will be considered depending on budget.
Aim is a very fast but tractable road car with an obscenely fat torque curve, not a dyno queen.
Aparently it's all in the girth of the curve, not the thin high peak :wink:
-
Sounds like you're cracking on with it Mark. When it comes to getting the blighter in the MKII give me a shout and I'll lend you my hands again.
hi Nick,
yes if you don't mind I will take you up on this. So much easier with an extra pair of hands.
When time has allowed I've been researching and part locating. I'll basically get everything I can think of, lay it out airfix style on the floor so I'm happy I've got everything, then take the old golf off the road one weekend.
When this is stripped of mechanicals I'll take a few days to jet wash and clean the engine bay and make any paint and rust repairs required. I'll probably waxoil down the chassis rails too. Then it's a case of refit and replace.
The headaches are going to come after I think with understanding the new wiring requirements and plumbing the intercooler in without (hopefully) having to hack too much around.
That's the plan anyway. But as with all great plans.......... :wink: