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General => Shows, events, track days, motorsport => Topic started by: gazpowells on 04 April 2010, 20:12
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hi
I would like to run my car without the ABS but have a problem!
have just unplugged the sensors so the ABS will not work, just went out for a drive and there was to much rear brake bias :sad:
couldn't brake hard coz the the rear just kept locking up...
the car is a mk3 16v which i believe the brake bias is controlled via the ABS system..
so how do i control rear bias, do i have to fit an inline valve into the rear brake pipes? or is there any other way around the problem?
thanks in advance
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Try some better pads in the front and standard ones in the rear.
I run mine without the abs, mintex 1155's on the front and standard on the rear. My car has all the weight taken out of it and its really light on the back and it brakes fine.
Worth a try before you start messing with bias valves etc.
Paul
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If you're going to fit a bias valve you need to appreciate what you're in for: A complete re-wire of the braking system.
I only fitted mine because I had to re-do the whole back end of the car anyway.
Your car should currently have diagonal-split brakes, for safety.
If you fit a bias valve then you're wiring the two front brakes into the two front ports of the master cylinder and then both rears on to a single port on the rear.
Totally different.
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Try some better pads in the front and standard ones in the rear.
I run mine without the abs, mintex 1155's on the front and standard on the rear. My car has all the weight taken out of it and its really light on the back and it brakes fine.
Worth a try before you start messing with bias valves etc.
Paul
have you taken the abs pump out mate or just removed sensors?
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I just pulled the fuse.
The abs didn't work before and it comes up with a pump fault on vagcom.
Removing the sensor wires will have the same effect.
Paul
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thanks paul
i would like to remove the ABS pump, so i think i will change all the pipes and fit a bias valve
any advice about doing this before i start
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If you're going to fit a bias valve you need to appreciate what you're in for: A complete re-wire of the braking system.
I only fitted mine because I had to re-do the whole back end of the car anyway.
Your car should currently have diagonal-split brakes, for safety.
If you fit a bias valve then you're wiring the two front brakes into the two front ports of the master cylinder and then both rears on to a single port on the rear.
Totally different.
thanks mate
think i will change all the pipes, should i fit 2 bias valves or just 1 and blank off the 1 rear brake pipe coming out the master cylinder?
im assuming the cylinder has 4 ports
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Blank off the port and fit one, or you'd never balance it out.
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I had a look at removing the ABS pump last night and the master cylinder only has 2 ports not 4
so do i just use the front port for the front brakes with a t peice in it and the back port for the rears
or should i change the master cylinder?
thanks guys
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One port for the fronts and one port for the back, with the bias valve reducing the flow to the rears.
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thanks mate thats what i was thinking :smiley:
just 1 more question do you know what size the fittings are for the MS? want get all the bits and pipe ready so i can you
a quick swap
thanks
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Sorry, not off the top of my head.
If I was doing it I'd get them from VW, as the OEM ones will fit up correctly.
Buy kunifer pipe rather than copper, or stainless if you're feeling reet posh.
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will pop down vw in morning and see if they can help :smiley:
thanks DH
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Alternatively download the brochure from "Goodridges" website, that has all the nozzle part numbers and materials available to you if you do re-do the brake cables from scratch, longer straight routes could be done with a long thin copper pipe with the correct fittings on as the flexible stainless steel links are only really for the calipers as the wheels bound about.
For that I think it might be worth contacting "C & R Enterprises" as they are the only people that do copper piping for the rear mk4 setups as far as I am aware off.
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You've mis-interpreted what I've said.
Flexible stainless pipe is indeed only to go from the car to the wheel. Stainless hardlines (kinda like the steel OEM lines) do the stuff around the car body and are the most durable and damage resistant, hence my mate's using them on his off-road racer.
OEM routed copper pipe won't work in this installation as it'll be a rather different set up - instead of two pipes going backwards, there'll be one. The front pipes will go a different route, too.
Kunifer is more durable than copper, which is why I recommended that instead of straight copper.
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my local motor shop is making my pipes up this weekend and i should have them monday...
and its going to be Kunifer pipe..
they doing all the hard work for me ( fittings and flares ) so i just gotta shape them, fit them and bleed the system and hopefully
everything will be good :smiley:
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i did try my local VW but they was not much help :sad: