GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: joker6789 on 08 February 2010, 12:47
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the car
1990 spec mk2 gti 8v difi
what it failed on
(Pump area) Fuel system component leaking
Nearside headlamp aim too low
Offside headlamp aim too low
Rear subframe corroded and seriously weakened
Nearside steering rack gaiter split
Steering column top bearing exessivly worn
Nearside registration plate lamp not working
Offside registration plate lamp not working
Nearside (rack) steering system has exessive freeplay detected at steering wheel (steering rack fitted)
advisorys -
exhaust had part of the system slightly deteriorated
rear sub frame bushes slighlty split
power sterring noise on full lock
engine running rough
I got quoted £1200 to put through MOT, im a complete noob but that price seemed a bit nuts, im trying to sell it unless it cant be done for half that price!
what do you rekon?
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(Pump area) Fuel system component leaking
Nearside headlamp aim too low
Offside headlamp aim too low
Rear subframe corroded and seriously weakened
Nearside steering rack gaiter split
Steering column top bearing exessivly worn
Nearside registration plate lamp not working
Offside registration plate lamp not working
Nearside (rack) steering system has exessive freeplay detected at steering wheel (steering rack fitted)
Well lets break it all down!
Headlight adjustment is normally expected on an MOT and should cos little or nothing.
Fuel pumps on ebay for less than £50
Reg lamps sounds like fuse
Subframe can be welded up for not alot
If the bearing is fooked, that means that the play in steering is from the bearing.
Hmmm, £1200!? Im expecting 1k for my full engine re-build, just to put things in perspective!
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I read a post a couple of days ago. Someone was quoted 180 for a whole new rear subrame complete with bushes and new rear calipers.
I would suggest, if your golf is a daily, that you buy a heap of a car for 100 quid that will last only a month or two, pull the dub off the road and devote some man hours/research to it
I'm guessing the price you were quoted was to put you off. He obviously didn't want to do the work/help you out
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You could repair that for loads less than £1200
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The sub-frame failure concerns me the most by far.
Fixing that is where all that money is going.
Was it not an advisory the year before?
If i were in your shoes id take it to another mot station.
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he doesnt happen to have a car for sale for £1200 does he ? :huh:
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Go else where for the work if you can't do it yourself, also try source as many of the parts yourself, even 2nd hand parts from ebay to save you some dosh.
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I can put it off the road, hopefully i can puesuade a mate to lend me his garage.
I dont want to get rid of my mk2 as it will feel like a failed attempting to get onto the dub scene!
some one on retro rides offered to get the parts for me and even help me do it if he's close enough but still awaiting a reply.
i've only had the car a month :undecided:
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Hope you didn't pay too much for it then :shocked:
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£1000
:lipsrsealed:
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:shocked: :lipsrsealed:
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the only thing is the labour involved + the fact the bloke who gave u the quote doesnt sound like he wants to do it!
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thats prob it he gave you a high price to put you off.
listen mate parts for mk2`s are cheap as fook i picked up a rear beam for £40 about 3 months ago, beware though you have to disconnect the brakelines when you take the old one off.
drive around your local aera and get quotes off all the garages you can find for the work, i take it you have a fail sheet?
tell them you want it doing, dont let them just fob you off, and if its too much work for them then go somewhere else.
or go and buy yourelf a haynes manual and some tools, honestly the only way to learn is to take something apart and put it back together, but REMEMBER HOW IT CAME APART!
i bet you will get it all done for half what you were quoted in a garage though if not less.
good luck fella but just remember if you do have a go yourself, its only a car and its not really that daunting.
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One thing to check would be what they mean by rear subframe. Everyone in this thread seems to think the rear beam but I think they mean the subframe at the rear of the engine bay. This is much cheaper to get and much easier to swap than a rear beam. You need to clarrify what they mean by "rear subframe".
nick
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just out of intrest where did you take it for its mot?
im not trying to rub salt in the wound but i could prob fix this for less than £300, thats just to let you know how much that garage is taking the piss! bastards! :angry:
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One thing to check would be what they mean by rear subframe. Everyone in this thread seems to think the rear beam but I think they mean the subframe at the rear of the engine bay. This is much cheaper to get and much easier to swap than a rear beam. You need to clarrify what they mean by "rear subframe".
nick
good point...........
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If like Horney says they mean the rear subframe behind the engine then to be fair, other than the steering bearing bit it should be that big a mountain of a job.
Most of the probs seem to be centered around the K subframe (assuming thats what they mean) so if you could source one of these and work on it off the car you'd prob find it hell of a lot easier. You could refurb it, get new bushes pressed in, and sort the steering rack pretty easily to be fair. You could even get it powdercoated and polybushed and still be quids in after a quote like £1200!!
The only thing I would be worried about is rot around where the K frame attaches to the car if by sounds it has rotted and weakened badly. Plus I would soak the bolts in a healthy does of WD40 before trying to remove them save shearing them off...then you are stuck down poop alley!