GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: oakgreengolf on 31 January 2010, 10:16
-
Right I Need to widen the rear of my car by about 30mm each side to accomodate some new alloys. The Spacers ive been looking at are £120+ :sad:. I did read somewhere you can put 10mm behind the stud axle not sure if you can increase this, meaning ill need 20mm spacers which are alot cheaper. Any suggestions on what to use and where to get longer bolts from. cheers :smiley:
-
think ive found what I need http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168365&page=3
Can you put more than 10mm behind the stub axle or will it put to much pressure on it??
-
Alot of the US guys run these. There's even a white Mk1 who's owner slackened off and put big bolts half way down to acheive STUPID amount of -ve camber! I think Mason-Tech in the US sell similar things. So, imo, yup-go for it!!! :evil:
-
If 20mm spacers would be ok that would be great. think ive found some bolts that I can use M10X50 High Tensile Bolt BZP Grade 8.8 these be ok??
http://www.nutsboltsandthings.co.uk/product.aspx?id=-1&s=m10x50
-
i wouldn't trust 8.8's for the job. go for some 12.9's
-
seen these but doesn't reccomend them for exterior use??
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M10-X-50-SOCKET-CAP-BOLTS-GR-12-9-SELF-COLOUR-10-OFF_W0QQitemZ170429302600QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ?hash=item27ae60c748
-
i believe you can get them plated in 12.9.
get them with hex heads and shoulders though, not allen heads!
have you had a look in the yellow pages for your nearest bolt shop?
-
iv lost the thread. but on the main cgti site it suggested cosworth hex'd ht bolts. i wouldnt feel safe using anything above a 11mm inner spacer behind the stub. and anything bigger than that between the wheel and disc is surely putting alot of leverage on the bearing?
-
BOOM!
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101233&highlight=rear+spacers+cosworth
-
i believe you can get them plated in 12.9.
get them with hex heads and shoulders though, not allen heads!
have you had a look in the yellow pages for your nearest bolt shop?
+1 use at least 12.9 plated maybe even 14.8 if you can find them.
-
A 20mm spacer would be better for me but it obviously needs to be safe. Those cosworth bolts seem good if I go for the 10mm spacers, I take it I can get them from ford. Failing that ill find a bolt shop as suggested :smiley:
-
the p/n number is on the threrad....
-
iv lost the thread. but on the main cgti site it suggested cosworth hex'd ht bolts. i wouldnt feel safe using anything above a 11mm inner spacer behind the stub. and anything bigger than that between the wheel and disc is surely putting alot of leverage on the bearing?
Your forgetting where the bearing is at the rear! Doesnt matter how thick you make the spacers as this will not increase the moment on the bearings, as long as you use longer bolts to suit you will be fine.
Ignore all of this "cosworth" bolts rubbish (unless you like being financially raped due to the cosworth tag) and get down to your local bolt shop (yellow pages - engineering factors) and buy some 12.9 bolts that are long enough and zinc plated and they will be more than good enough. Doesnt matter about the head type either, most people think getting hex headed bolts out after years of rusting into position is easier but Im not remotely convinced on this and the contact pressures are pretty much the same on cap heads as for normal hex heads (which have a small diameter washer face anyway) so you gain nothing by using hex heads except for the hassle of finding them over cap heads.
-
just ask anyone who has done rear disc swap about how great allen bolts are :grin:
-
just ask anyone who has done rear disc swap about how great allen bolts are :grin:
Lol, no need man, Ive got more than enough experience with this sort of thing to make my own opinion and both head types have their own problems lol. Asside from that, this isnt a part that will ever be coming off again anyway so........
-
yeah either bolt is fine, tbh rear disc bolts are more of a pain due to where they are, stub spacer ones will be alright as on the outside.
on mine of course law of the sod dictated that the only bolt to round off was the top one on driver side, so about 1" to swing a hammer thanks to zaust in't way. I still have that bolt with socket hammered on in my garage somewhere as a trophy :grin:
-
Getting the new rims tomorrow so will see how things look to how far I have to widen. Think ill be changing the suspension back too, fed up of these hottuning collies.
-
hmm ive got four 20 or was it 25mm hub centric wheel spacers lying about doing nothing.
4x100 mk2 golf fitment^
I had a problem with after market bolts on the stub axel. I couldnt get a socket over the bolt head to tighten them enough.
Have you spoken to an engineer for custom spacers? Might work out cheaper
-
I'm looking at that option too my problem is the rear will need to go out by around 30mm each side, which is very expensive. Then ill need to buy longer studs. I'm running 5x100 which seems a little more costly than 4x100 too. I'm getting the new rims tomorrow hopefully, they are 5x100 but the centre bore isn't 57.1mm, it's slightly smaller so need to get this addressed too.
-
You could also have the plate (where the stub axel bolts onto) spaced out 30mm each side?
cut off and re-weld?
-
these must be special wheels.
-
Interesting thread. Anyone (engineers perhaps) shed any light on why someone on cgti has said that you should have your spacers cad drawn and made by engineering shop ?? (other than the apparent need for anyone doing diy on cars to heavily over-engineer everything they do). I've got lots of 10mm plate, a cutting disc on an angle grinder and a pillar drill ... am I missing something or will I be able to knock these up for free? Cheers
-
The rims are not particually special but the offset is ET55.
-
Interesting thread. Anyone (engineers perhaps) shed any light on why someone on cgti has said that you should have your spacers cad drawn and made by engineering shop ?? (other than the apparent need for anyone doing diy on cars to heavily over-engineer everything they do). I've got lots of 10mm plate, a cutting disc on an angle grinder and a pillar drill ... am I missing something or will I be able to knock these up for free? Cheers
Would you trust them.
-
Interesting thread. Anyone (engineers perhaps) shed any light on why someone on cgti has said that you should have your spacers cad drawn and made by engineering shop ?? (other than the apparent need for anyone doing diy on cars to heavily over-engineer everything they do). I've got lots of 10mm plate, a cutting disc on an angle grinder and a pillar drill ... am I missing something or will I be able to knock these up for free? Cheers
I reckon up to 10mm spacers would be fine knocked up in the way you've described... would in fact probably turn out better than most of the multi-fit/generic non-hubcentric spacers you can buy from the like of halfords.
Wouldn't go thicker tho, as then they would be getting really heavy if made from steel, and you'd want perfectly hubcentric ones to prevent wheel-wobble.
Wouldn't go any thicker tho... for starters, would be really heavy
-
Interesting thread. Anyone (engineers perhaps) shed any light on why someone on cgti has said that you should have your spacers cad drawn and made by engineering shop ?? (other than the apparent need for anyone doing diy on cars to heavily over-engineer everything they do). I've got lots of 10mm plate, a cutting disc on an angle grinder and a pillar drill ... am I missing something or will I be able to knock these up for free? Cheers
Main problem here is making sure they are properly flat to make sure the wheel bolts apply even pressure on the mating faces and to stop the wheel running out (if between the wheel and disc anyway). If you can get them flat then you may get away with it but ideally you would want them to be hubcentric once over a few mm thick anyway to make sure the wheels are concentric to their mounting spigot which is a problem you wont be able to overcome using your method unless you can file holes perfectly round and you wont be able to replicate the wheel bore spigot to keep the wheels concentric either. No real need for cad use, sketches are fine but yeah, personally I would not touch spacers between the wheel and disc that had been bodged up by hand as there are too many things that can/will be wrong (and I havent mentioned balance). Much better to get such things machined by someone who knows what they are doing.
To whoever mentioned fitting 30mm spacers between wheel and disc, thats not generally a very good idea, although in this case they will not increase the loads on the bearings due to the OP's wheels offset. Personally Id do as the OP wants to and space the axle out (assuming the rear disc/calipers will clear the wheel!) to make up for the offset as its fit and forget, less to go wrong (spigots and bores) and a damn sight cheaper.
-
Ideal solution, I reckon, would be mk3 widetrack rear-beam with stub-axle spacers - would give you an opportunity to overhaul rear bushes too...