GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: jocarl11 on 19 January 2010, 13:32
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Hi, Anyone know the best way to feed the power cable from the batter to the sub in the boot? The problem i'm having is gettin from the battery to inside the car without taking much apart?
Cheers Carl.
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done it in the mk4, just find a suitable rubber grommet that passes through the firewall+ push it through where other wires go, then on the inside id run it along the plastics at the bottom of the doors
theres loadsa good audio install info on ukmkiv forum
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Take your feed from the fuse box.
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good point, on the mk4 theres a small fuse box on top of the battery with a place to put in a seperate fuse for the sub/amp exc but in mk3 may well be better doin it straight from fuse box although looking at the wiring around mk3 fusebox makes me :sick: specially when theres a load of wires going nowhere/dodgily choped + spliced by x owners, oh well it hasnt caught fire yet :laugh:
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Ok i'll look into wireing from the fusebox Also need to replace the rear panel speakers, I take it they are 6.5?
Its a mk3 btw.
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unsure about size but you should run the speaker wires away from your power supply to get the clearest sound or just shield the wires well
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I ran my remote, RCA and power cable down the passanger side of the car, under the sill trim (on the inside where the belt tensioner is) and up under the passanger footwell carpet and through a grommet on the firewall.
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behind the glovebox is the perfect grommit for the wire (and it's for the alarm siren wiring which is located next to the battery)
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The rear speakers and fronts are both 6.5".
As for routing, I did the same as khare, it's easy enough to do, more helpful to have a second person with you to help feed the wire through the firewall mind you. Make sure you run the speak cable down the other side of the car mind you, to cease any possibility of interference.
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Don't forget to put an inline fuse between the battery and firewall! Battery = 70amps...if that makes contact with any part of the metal of the car...well...arcs & sparks. If your car goes up in a cloud of smoke, the insurance wont pay a penny when they find there is no fuse.
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Don't forget to put an inline fuse between the battery and firewall! Battery = 70amps...if that makes contact with any part of the metal of the car...well...arcs & sparks. If your car goes up in a cloud of smoke, the insurance wont pay a penny when they find there is no fuse.
The power cable already has a fuse in line so thats sorted!
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behind the glovebox is the perfect grommit for the wire (and it's for the alarm siren wiring which is located next to the battery)
Think i found the grommit your talking about and it does look perfect cheers!
Now is for the ground wire connection in the boot, My last car (306) was a pain in the a*** to find a suitable ground to fasten to! I havn't had chance to look on my golf yet but hoping there's a nice bolt to latch onto somewhere?
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I always use the bolts under the rear seats..there's several there ready to use and it keeps the wires hidden
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I always use the bolts under the rear seats..there's several there ready to use and it keeps the wires hidden
+1 on that. And if you want to be truly badass, sand down some of the paint where the bolt is and create a perfect contact for the ground. No faffing around putting it near the light cluster etc.
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And if you want to do even better than that run a copper cable back to the neg battery better than chassis steel and if your running feed from battery just use twin core.
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And if you want to do even better than that run a copper cable back to the neg battery better than chassis steel and if your running feed from battery just use twin core.
You wont find twin core cable thick enough to carry the current needed. A sub will draw 8-20amps at 12v...bottom line: Always use a THICK cable...or again...arcs & sparks. There is the option of using 2 thick cables, but its unnecessary...there are plenty of bolts to crimp a cable to in the boot.
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And if you want to do even better than that run a copper cable back to the neg battery better than chassis steel and if your running feed from battery just use twin core.
You wont find twin core cable thick enough to carry the current needed. A sub will draw 8-20amps at 12v...bottom line: Always use a THICK cable...or again...arcs & sparks. There is the option of using 2 thick cables, but its unnecessary...there are plenty of bolts to crimp a cable to in the boot.
Only unnecessary if you are lazy and unimaginitive. copper is an excrllent condoctor and steel is a crap conductor that rusts, ok for lights etc although even they suffer from bad connections but for high quality audio I would absolutly recommend a copper return of exactly the same diameter as the feed and to say you dont get twin core is a pretty wierd thing to say.
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As Bradley has already said:
Remove the tray under the glove box, then the glove box. At the rear of where the glove box was there's a rubber grommet about the size of a 5p, mine already had an alarm wire going through it, poke the wire through, that's the hardest bit done! And while all the stuff is out it's easy to route all the cables from the rear of the head unit and down the trim on the passenger side.
As for earth, I used a stud which the rear light attaches to, after I sanded the paint off, this is because I have an enclosure built into the boot.
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I didn't get in till dark tonight so not had chance to start wiring it yet but should be a straightforward job now i'v had the help cheers guys! The things we do for some bass :wink:
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lookin at fittin my sub 2moz........... :grin:
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The earth should be no longer than a metre and the same size cable as the power and make sure the fuse in the power lead is at least the same amp rating as the fuse in the amp.