GolfGTIforum.co.uk
General => Shows, events, track days, motorsport => Topic started by: Adam-D on 12 October 2004, 18:27
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any advice etc?
need suspension
a trip to the bodyshop
roll cage
seats and harneses
helmet
air filter, exhaust
and i would like the sun roof removed< is this possible
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JV and I are doing this next year.
The good thing here is that, if you're building this just for track days (rather than competing in a race series) you can get on the track RIGHT NOW!!! and carry out your mods over time if you want.
First things first is a helmet - I've never been on a track day where the let you on a track without one, so invest there first.
A fire extinguisher to keep in the car is a wise purchase, just make sure that it comes with brackets that they are man enough to keep it in place in the event of an 'incident' ;)
As for the rest, the order in which you do it is up to you. Suspension will allow you to maximise your speed with your current engine (by increasing cornering speeds) but won't increase the speed at which you arrive at the corners.
Zorst and filter will give you more grunt on the straights, but ifyou're still running stock suspension, you aren't going to run any quicker through the twisty bits.
Seats/harnesses are nice, and will make the day less of a strain on your back, and should you have a shunt will protect you further.
A cage will offer improved safety in the event of a big off, but you're likely to get flagged by a marshall if you're driving hard enough to provoke a roll, long before it happens!!!
The best people for all this stuff under one roof is Demon Tweaks, as they are quite focussed towards track day gear/entry to motorsport etc. Give them a call and get a catalogue.
See you on the track next year buddy ;D
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I would remove all un-necessary stuff, seats carpet etc. Get a good fixed bucket seat, not a recliner. A helmet and some overalls, most circuits like hands/legs covered.
Yes the sunroof can be removed, you will have to get someone to weld in a sheet of metal. So thats part of yer bodyshop visit.
Wouldnt bother with flash alloys and low profiles to begin with get some crabby steels.
Try a few circuits then get improving!
Suspension first then engine.
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http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=13609.0
this is my beast so far :)
am gonna get a helmet ;D
i dont plan in going off as im pretty much a a safe driver i plan my lines know about how to carry speed
i am no way the best driver and have much to learn :)
cheers peeps
a guy's uncle may be giving me a good bodyshop quote ;D
which is nice
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u can rivit a pice of mettel were thr sunroof was, wel thats what the pros do
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was what i was thinking
get a sheet of steel remove sunroof
put a line if bonder round the hole and rivet the steel on.
also the little raised bit in the rear that the lower part of the seat sits on.
this is not need so this cant be removed cant it? ie its not structual is it??
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I built my golf 90 spec 1.8 8valve as a track/daily driver uprated suspension from Raceland,Drilled and groved discs with standard road pads (warm up ouicker and dont squeal as much) all round.Fitted a half roll cage fromwww.rollcentreracing.com[url=http://]]] (http://[/url)www.rollcentreracing.comhttp:// which was about? ?200 Safety first !.k&n panel filter and the rest is totaly standard apart from a set off 3 point harnesses,cheapest helmet there was from demon tweaks,and run a set off scabby 16v alloys as my track rims.Would advise taking? a set off rims as some surfaces can be realy brutal on tyres especialy concrete air fields (Elvington) York for example.Don't understand why you want to remove the sunroof though as it is not a requirement off any off the track day companys.Don't be fooled in to thinking you need a really powerfull car as a small light nimble car will be quicker round a track than some off the more powerfull cars around,its all about learning your own and your cars limits.
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cheers bud
the sunroof is ultimatly dead weight and in time will leak, the mechanism is shot anyway
so might as well get rid of it
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cut out all spare metal? spare wheel recess? weld a plate over it? get perspex not glass? etc etc
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cheers mate not sure bout spare wheel well
proberly will ditch it
and am looking at fiberglass boot bonnet and perspex windows
need them 2nd has the car will be done on a budget
as and when money allows
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Ask anyone who has stripped there car to the guts and they will all tell you, Its the best performance modification you could do short of dropping a Bigger motor in. Ive found that its not just the interiour you can strip, If you have big bumpers, Try getting under the motor, There will be a small metal plate at the front, Thats basically the front of the car on small bumper models, You can take this out and replace it with just a bar to keep it riged, You will find the same at the back too, The front wheels have mud catchers round them, These can be removed in seconds if your prepaired to cut them out. Also, Rims are an important way of lightning a car, OZ are the best performance rims if your on a budget, If your gonna be driving hard, Get the turismo or Superlegger multi spokes, As there gonna give you the supporting strenght.
Also, Invest in a 3 piece strut brace kit to make your car more ridged, Im waiting for mine to arive so ill give you some feedback on how they go.
Another thing i can recomend to you is the peddles, People say the halfords peddles are cheap boy racer tack, But ill never drive my car fast without them, There a real saver and reduce the travel time of your feet. A real must in my oppinion.
Carbon fiber should also become your new best friend ;) But if you cant afford it, Just take off your bonnit, takes 5 mins and reduces the waight a lot. Also, behind the grill you should find a small patch of plasic blocking off the part of the grill not covered by the radiator (if its a stock grill) Removing this works wonders for getting air to your Cone Filter if you have one.
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smashing
few things i didnt know there for stripping
cheers mate :)
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how low do i lower it by?
was 60mm on my corsa when i had it
dont know what would be best on a golf gti? 60mm on 15's?
with 50 profile tyres
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Hi,
Fibreglass bonnet and boot are ?250 the pair.
I brought two sets from a chap that has made moulds from original VW panels. One set are for my trackday car and the others were for a mate - who has let me down....
The bonnet has been de-vented (i.e. it has no vents on the back edge) and the boot has been de-locked. Bonnet and boot require fitting with race-car-type pins & clips. Boot also requires plastic window. They also require painting, as they are in white 'gel-coat' (smooth fibreglass finish).
They are very, very light and give massive weight saving. Ideal for trackday cars!
Havn't found any others for sale in the shops, anywhere....
Give me a shout if your interested.
Martin.
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how low do i lower it by?
was 60mm on my corsa when i had it
dont know what would be best on a golf gti? 60mm on 15's?
with 50 profile tyres
Im down 40 on 15s with no rubbing, You could probally go down 60-70 with rolled arches on a Track car, Just make sure you have anti roll bars so your car doesnt bodyroll and scrape the front ;)
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i think 40 will be fine now ive read somthing gambit said ;D
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Make sure your helmet has the gold motorbike association sticker on the back , ythat is the minimum standard to take a bike on the track and will probably apply in a car as well .
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Wahey Adam looks like were goin the same route, i picked up a mk2 8v for a massive 250 quid and its currently having its guts torn out , everythings gone so far , that includes the dash the heater the heater fan , all the seats , headlineing , before i took the heater was taken out i took it out for a blast with just the driver seat in , an daft as it seems you can feel the difference , never used to go up on 3 wheels , mines a super budget project but luckily ive got some access to some really good facilities , im surprised that not more people have mentioned brakes , one of the quickest ways to go faster is to stop later into a corner , dont know which one of the the golfs youve got but the 8v needs better stoppers
maybe we should all sort a golfgti.co.uk track day out ??
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weld in a roll cage built from pipes. that way it'll save you loads of money over buying one and strengthen the car at the same time.
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gonna start doing some work to her in the coming months
bout damm time i think
also, id rather have a fia approved cage
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Get some willwood 4pot brakes, only £450 for the pair with hoses rotors calipers and pads. Rally design have them
I melt my brakes when im out on the road so half a lap on the track then!
Brembo slotted rotors and EBC green pads, shame VW made them so small they melt
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That sounds a great price. You mean something from this page?
http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=562_563_577
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The biggest danger on track days is the others on the track. Beware of the boy racers with no clue to correct lines or protocol. Also you get a huge difference in car types and performances. This is a hazard in it'self, because a 911 on slicks on the same track as a 1600 Golf is a collision waiting to happen. It's great fun but watch your mirrors and try not to race that 400HP purpose built monster on your rear bumper.
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http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=13609.0
this is my beast so far :)
am gonna get a helmet ;D
i dont plan in going off as im pretty much a a safe driver i plan my lines know about how to carry speed
i am no way the best driver and have much to learn :)
cheers peeps
a guy's uncle may be giving me a good bodyshop quote ;D
which is nice
Just looked at your prep so far. You should put the door trim back in, or fix a ally or carbon fiber card on the inside of the door. You don't want your hand or arm getting caught in a bare door frame on a roll over. Even race cars aren't allowed bare door frames.
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http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=13609.0
this is my beast so far :)
am gonna get a helmet ;D
i dont plan in going off as im pretty much a a safe driver i plan my lines know about how to carry speed
i am no way the best driver and have much to learn :)
cheers peeps
a guy's uncle may be giving me a good bodyshop quote ;D
which is nice
Just looked at your prep so far. You should put the door trim back in, or fix a ally or carbon fiber card on the inside of the door. You don't want your hand or arm getting caught in a bare door frame on a roll over. Even race cars aren't allowed bare door frames.
depends what sort of race car it is. if you are gonna use perspex windows and a slider, ie fixed windows, then you can cut alot of the inner door away and throw out winder etc. you will be amazed how much weight is in a door.
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Hi guy's.................just to let people know i'm trying to help people out with lightening the there cars for this type and any other type of racing , by way of carbon fibre parts for the mk3 golfs over on the mk3 golf area/forum for silly money and very good quality , i'm doing the same on my car at the moment and came in contact with this company by a friend.
They also do a full wide bodied light weight carbon kit for racing it puts the cars weight at around 900kilo's Actually 856kilo's to be exact... stripped out , At around £2400 or a little over but this would include a bonnet,2doors,a boot lid,2 wings,front and rear bumpers,a dash boeard,and 2 three quater panels WOW , i,ve put some prices up for people who like myself just want a bonnet,boot lid,and dash board.
Regards,
Steve.
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helmet - obvious reasons
fire extinguisher - obvious reasons
half cage - can be lived with but carrying people in the back is a no no, stiffens chassis to an extent
full cage - expensive, pain in the ass if you're using on the road, stiffens the chassis majorly, all helps the suspension
recaros or buckets - side bolster support is a must have, needed if you want harnesses
harnesses - make a load of differnece, make you part of the car (instead of a passenger)
suspension - no sense having the power with no turn in! (include top mounts camber/caster adjustable)
brakes - decent pads and discs unless you're prepared to replace em every time they get cooked!
engine mounts - solid front one at least, you won't believe the differnece!
tyres - yoko 32r semi slicks (or 48r as they're now known) cheap items from german ebay
anti roll bars - must have suspension upgrade!
polybushes - makes everything a lot stiffer and they don't wear out all that often
perspex and weight loss - all the weight that goes is extra horses, things like sound deadening etc
decent gauges - need good feedback from the engine
close ratio box - instead of trying to put more horses through long gears, try shortening them and the horses come from nowhere! i believe you can fit a smaller final drive which does the trick. it's about £40, however the gearbox needs pulling apart
lightened flywheel - allows revs to be picked up quicker and so improves acceleration
baffled sump - to keep a good amount of oil available through those hard corners
catch tank - stop the fuel surge through hard corners
air flow - air filter, power rohr, inlet manifold, exhaust manifold, exhaust system and of course there's the big valve heads, ported, polished etc etc
LSD - slip diff for an extra tug out of the bends, MUST HAVE!!
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One very important mod is a quaife limited slip diff which i've got plus a group N motorsport clutch good for 400lbs which i have also ( 2.0L DIESEL :shocked: ) and i've just ordered the motorsport changer and cables from cult not cheap but they've just modified them with a stainless steel tower in order for it to take more hammer , everything else mention i have less the roll cage................i just love scooby's and M3's.
1/4 at pod 13.02 @ 112 but in a mk2 body in 04. Smoooooking.
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Just got this last weekend. Its now my daily driver but built as a track car.
2.0 16v 9A
Mk2 16v box
4 branch manifold and system
Fully stripped interior, at all nothing
6 point Safety Devices cage
FIA seats
Harnesses
Polycarbonate windows with sliders
285mm brakes drilled with Pagid pads
Adjustable Konis
BBS RM's with Yoko A539's front and Toyo Prioxis T1S on rear
OMP steering wheel
Its fast as and totaly blows my old VR away but not just down to power but because its so light. Yes its tough to drive and the steering is so heavy, I dont have a CD player anymore or all the other creature comforts but hey its not built for that.  From 30mph to 130 mph its fun all the way and puts a huge smile on my face.
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Dubbernut/Mk1/05-02-06_1611.jpg)
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/Dubbernut/Mk1/05-02-06_1614.jpg)
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Dubbernut, do you have anymore pictures of that, it looks amazing....
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Havent got anymore pics yet. Aint had time to go anyplace other than work. Plus computer has thrown a wobbly and wont let me download anything off my phone.
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i bet that goes like sh!t off a shovel :laugh:
is that dash carbon? :sick:
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It is very quick and handles like its on rails. The dash ainy carbon (yet). Its made from ally plate and looks crap. Im planning on putting a proper dash in it this summer, with carbon inserts and all switches on toggles.
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when you sell it i want first dips, that is a perfect mk1 :cool: