GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: David10113 on 23 November 2009, 10:53
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hi I am trying to rplace cay and arm but cant get the rotor arm off does it just pull off, on a 2.0l 16v ABF??
any advice welcome
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it does on the 8v bit stiff but pulls straight up
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Some were glued on and you need to smash it to remove it.
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Yea as Wayne says - mine was glued on too!
Dunno why as no problems in 5 years with not being glued.
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hi guys thank you, ive been tugging at it for ages now and it just wont budge gonna have to resort to smashing it but dont wanna damage the dizzy in doing so
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You wont damage the steel underneath!
use a chisel or a flat screw driver and chip it off is best way.
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get some mole grips, clamp them on the rotor arm base. that'll crush it off dead easy, then just carefully chip out whats left. dont forget to clean out the locking tab notch in the end of the shaft else the new one wont push on fully.
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Thanks Len!
Yep it was well and truly glued on that wasnt going anywhere, chisled it off with a flat screw driver and the trusty hammer just hope I havent damaged the spindle.
Whilst your here as you seem to have a wealth of knowledge how many vac hoses are there so I dont miss any so far i have 5 is that right? also the one that goes to the ECU i have been following the hose is the ECU in the cabin or under the black plastic cover at base of wipers somewhere?
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thanks rubjonny just managed to get that bit out of the locking tab, thought this would only be a 5 min job hahaha off to the get the new bit now they were due in at lunchtime i hope this has fixed my rough running problem the cap was in a very poor state
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The one with the wealth of knowledge is rubjonny!
Sorry never counted vac hoses! Sure there is a pic on here somewhere!
Not all mine are connected anyway coz I blanked some from airbox.
Yes ECU is up under black scuttle panel.
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Hi len, thanks I will approach rubjonny, im still trying to sort this rough running issue, so far new plugs, new relays for fuel pump and ecu, now cap and arm but am hoping by the state of the cap and arm that will solve the problem.
then just the vac hoses to replace that dont look in that great condition
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If after cap/rotor and then vac hoses its throttle body next!
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The important ones are:
1x from inlet to fuel rail
1x from inlet to pcv valve (under the black cap on the front of inlet)
1x from either back of inlet (later cars) or nipple on chunky brake servo pipe (early cars) to ecu. This should be 1 meter long.
there are also vac hoses from the tbody to the carbon canister valve and I think another to the airbox, but these arnt that important. Just make sure they dont leak. Not 100% how those are routed as I've never actually worked on an ABF that's still fitted to a MK3 :grin:
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(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii211/Paul86S2/DSCF1759.jpg)
Thick black vac line on left (with bolt in the end on photo) goes from throttle body to the charcoal canister.
Next long blue vac line goes to the airbox from throttle body.
Shorter vac line not shown goes from the air box connection to the diverter valve inside the airbox.
Blue vac line top of picture above the VW on the inlet manifold goes to the ecu under the scuttle panel on passenger side.
Short blue vac line above spark plug wire goes to the FPR.
Large black vac line not shown goes from the RH side rear of the inlet manifold to the brake servo. On some models there is a small vac line that tees off of this and runs under the battery into the front wing for the aircon.
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii211/Paul86S2/DSCF1760.jpg)
Short blue vac line runs from the front of the manifold to the ISV.
I think thats them all.
Paul
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Hi Paul & rubjonny,
Paul thank you so much for those pics and the instructions and rubjonny i have replaced the cap and arm no change to lumpy running up to 3000 rpm then seems pretty good its just between 2,000 & 3,000 rpm that is casuing the problems.
Paul on those pics behind the airbox but just infront of the front strut mount i have a black box thing with tubes and pipes going into it someone told me its some kind of fuel evaportaion thing is that right? as I see in your pics there isnt one there??
Len yep looks like throttle body next i gave it a good dose of carb cleaner whilst in situ as havent had time to get it off today as the light is going and i dont have the luxury of a garage and im soaked!!
Still have some vac hoses to replace the ecu one and the one to the airbox i have done the others inc the little one at the front under the black plastic cover and the one that goes to the FPR,
do i need to take the throttle body off for a proper job? but it looked fairly clean before i sprayed it from what i could see
after the next little jobs (ecu vac hose & TB) im running out of ideas to what could be causing the hesitation??
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yeah thats the carbon canister, there for emmissions purposes :)
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Keep doing it in stages, finish the vac hoses then if still running rough move on to TB.
If you have to do it yes take TB off and use wet'ndry paper to give a good clean especially the area where the butterfly stops.
You'll soon see what I mean when you get it off and can see both sides.
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David
The thing in front of the strut tower will be the valve for the charcoal cannister which opens to remove the fuel vapour from the petrol tank via the charcoal cannister under the air filter box. The thick black vac pipe should attach to the valve. It's not on mine because I removed it.
I would change the ecu vac pipe as your next job. If there is a leak on this it will cause symptoms like you are having. Make sure you replace it with the same length, I have read somewhere that it doesn't matter and somewhere else that it is very dependant on the length so best to be safe and replace it with the same length.
You should be able to clean the throttle body good enough with it in situ.
Paul
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Hi Paul / Len / rubjonny
thanks again for your invaluable advice.
I will do the ecu vac hose as soon as i can, the hose that goes to the carbon cannister is good infact it looks new. I will make sure that the ecu hose is the same length then if no good will give the throttle body a thorough clean
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The really important thing with the ECU hose is making sure it is clear when fitted as it has to go through a grommet. So connect TB end first then blow through other end to ensure good passage of air. If you cant blow easily then try a bigger dia tube.
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Thanks for the advice Len, im going to order some silicone 3mm ID hoses from auto performance so should have it in a couple of days
i will update you when its fitted