GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Haribo! on 21 October 2009, 13:05
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so ive got the mk2 ive been looking for since i started getting them, its perfect....except the heaters which refuse to work,
So far the VW breakers that work on my car for me has changed those 2 valve things, checked thru all the pipes including the matrix which they did whilst changing my fan box, so all the pipes are clear and the engine does get hot, but im only getting less than luke warm air, the dial on the dash wont leave the first white block and the fans never get hot,
What could it be? Cause the cold weather is closing in.... :sad:
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Remove the "valve things" and put copper pipe in instead ;)
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to add, they did say it could be the thermostat? whats that where is it and can i do it? cause they said i have to wait til next week now and I really just want this done..,.
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Remove the "valve things" and put copper pipe in instead ;)
should have said in my original post, the valve things dont have the things inside as he poked them out so theyre doing what copper pipes would do i think?
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If the thermostat is dodgy, the car will usually take a long time to heat up (if it is stuck open), or overheat (if it is stuck closed).
Grabbing the bottom rad pipe, engine return etc. and seeing if they are all the same temp will tell you what is going on.
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so it cant be the thermostat then....?
so if all the pipes are clear and the engine is getting hot and the thermostat isnt at fault... whats left?
Why no heat?
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, but im only getting less than luke warm air, the dial on the dash wont leave the first white block and the fans never get hot,
Classic thermostat stuck open symptems.
nick
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, but im only getting less than luke warm air, the dial on the dash wont leave the first white block and the fans never get hot,
Classic thermostat stuck open symptems.
nick
ok, if it is that, how do i go about changing it? Cause if its simple, I really dont fancy waiting until next week for someone else to do it.
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Bottom left hand side of the egine you'll find the water pump. Attached the bottom of the pump is a plastic flange with one pipe coming out of it. Drain the coolant and then remove the 2 (or maybe 3 can't remember) bolts holding the flange on. The thermostat is inside here so whip it out and bung in a new one. Might be best to replace the plastic flange as well as they have a tendancy to warp and not go back on to well resulting in leaks.
Nick
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Bottom left hand side of the egine you'll find the water pump. Attached the bottom of the pump is a plastic flange with one pipe coming out of it. Drain the coolant and then remove the 2 (or maybe 3 can't remember) bolts holding the flange on. The thermostat is inside here so whip it out and bung in a new one. Might be best to replace the plastic flange as well as they have a tendancy to warp and not go back on to well resulting in leaks.
Nick
Thanks, ill try that :)
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I hope you don't have PAS as all the pump and pulleys for that have to be removed to get at the water pump. Forgot to mention that bit!
nick
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I hope you don't have PAS as all the pump and pulleys for that have to be removed to get at the water pump. Forgot to mention that bit!
nick
oh fcuk, I do have PAS, so this isnt a simple job.... grrr, il have to wait until next week then. I hate relying on other people,
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Well you need to slacken the PAS belt up, remove some of the brackets and then push the pump up and out of the way. You got a haynes manual as it's all covered in detail in there.
nick
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^ Pretty easy (I'm a noob and I figured it out!) , though it did take me ages to figure it out when changing the PAS belt because I left the Haynes at home and I was at the outlaws changing the belt :grin: :embarassed:
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Well you need to slacken the PAS belt up, remove some of the brackets and then push the pump up and out of the way. You got a haynes manual as it's all covered in detail in there.
nick
Nah, I aint messing about with it, knowing my luck recently, il mess it up and be in a worse situation then I was to start with,
Anyone live near bath wanna come help me, feel free, theres a pint in it :p
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to update, just went to investigate.
I let it idle for a while, and it begane to get warm..ish, warmer than usual anyway, and the temp dial on the dash got to about half way, it still wasnt HOT tho like when it works properly, no where near, just pleasantly warm.
Anyway, I went for a drive and the dial went back down and the air got cooler again.
All the pipes inside the engine bay were hot tho when I checked.
So we still thinking thermostat yeh?
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Yup, it should close when the temp drops due to flow through the rad. It's clearly stuck open and the cooling system is doing it's job too well when on the move.
Nick
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Yup, it should close when the temp drops due to flow through the rad. It's clearly stuck open and the cooling system is doing it's job too well when on the move.
Nick
ah awsome, makes perfect sense :D
Cheers man, il pass that info to the peopel doing the job and hopefull theyl get it done.
*offers still open if anyone wants to earn a pint :p*
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Remove the "valve things" and put copper pipe in instead ;)
should have said in my original post, the valve things dont have the things inside as he poked them out so theyre doing what copper pipes would do i think?
Did they clamp off the small by-pass tube between the valve units? If not some of the heater water may go through this instead of the matrix. Even if the stat is missing or opening too soon you should still get some decent heat once its all warmed up, just takes a bit longer thats all.
I would agree that its a classic stat problem, one of the two stat housing bolts usually seizes and shears off btw, also the long bolt through the alternator/pas pump bracket can seize solid and you have to drop the lot to un-seize it (been there twice now). If you are not hardened to these issues then I suggest you leave it to somone who is.
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Remove the "valve things" and put copper pipe in instead ;)
should have said in my original post, the valve things dont have the things inside as he poked them out so theyre doing what copper pipes would do i think?
Did they clamp off the small by-pass tube between the valve units? If not some of the heater water may go through this instead of the matrix. Even if the stat is missing or opening too soon you should still get some decent heat once its all warmed up, just takes a bit longer thats all.
I would agree that its a classic stat problem, one of the two stat housing bolts usually seizes and shears off btw, also the long bolt through the alternator/pas pump bracket can seize solid and you have to drop the lot to un-seize it (been there twice now). If you are not hardened to these issues then I suggest you leave it to somone who is.
ah, this highlights my issue with working on my car,
and I can guarantee that all of those thing mentioned above would have happened to me had I attempted it!
Il wait and take it back to the pros
Thanks for the info. :)
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Probably a bit late with this one but, naff heaters generally indicate low coolant/water level (unless you own an opel manta ;) ) - get your expansion tank up high (park it on a kerb!) take the cap off and let it run....
Oh yea, give the bottom hose a squeeze when the cap is off :)