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Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Harooshum on 19 October 2009, 12:04
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Hreg mk2 16v 174k miles off the road and hasnt been started in about 3 years. I sought some advice on bringing her back to life, just wanted to run it over in here.
1- remove spark plugs and pour a little engine oil down those gaps into the cylinders.
2- remove fuel pump fuse
3- engage starter for 5 secs, then switch off. Repeat several times.
4- put fuel pump fuse back in, and replace the spark plugs with new ones.
5- start as normal without revving, just idle for 5-10 mins.
6- change engine oil and filter
Im concerned about starting the engine after such an amount of time, as the upper parts of the engine may not be lubricated. Would it be best to drain the oil and remove/clean the sump for all the crap buiding up down there?
Thanks. h.
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M 16valver had deen standing aout 10 years according to the last owner. Ihad to replace both fuel pumps before she fired up and then i had to give the air meter a good clean up.The needle was stuck so i wrapped it in a rag and pulled it out with some pliers. cleaned it with petrol and she runs sweet now. change the cam belt asap. mine was ready to snap! :grin: I enjoyed getting it running thou. both pumps i found off ebay second hand. good luck :smiley:
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@Harooshum, I'd be more inclined to change the oil first, then do as you said.
Spinning the starter with no sparkies will lubricate the bores and get the oil flowing, which is exactly what you want.
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id chuck some thin oil down the plug holes and leave it oer night first.
spin it over with plugs out fo rabout 30 secs.
then check the cam belt and make sure it's getting fresh fuel
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id chuck some thin oil down the plug holes and leave it oer night first.
spin it over with plugs out fo rabout 30 secs.
then check the cam belt and make sure it's getting fresh fuel
What I was about to say. Spray oil down the plug holes to give everything a good coating and leave for a few hours. Then spin it over without plugs in, in case of hydraulic lock and to get things moving.
When you go for the start, expect clouds of smoke from the exhaust. This will burn off after a few seconds, hopefully.
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M 16valver had deen standing aout 10 years according to the last owner. Ihad to replace both fuel pumps before she fired up and then i had to give the air meter a good clean up.The needle was stuck so i wrapped it in a rag and pulled it out with some pliers. cleaned it with petrol and she runs sweet now. change the cam belt asap. mine was ready to snap! :grin: I enjoyed getting it running thou. both pumps i found off ebay second hand. good luck :smiley:
Not sure what you mean. I used to take apart the entire air filter housing along with all the parts to and including the throttle, and give it a good clean with carburettor cleaner along with the isv valve as part of my regular servicing if thats what u mean - stuck needle???
Thanks for all your replies, im about to start doing this on this lovely sunday morning but I cant find my spark plug tool - need to go gsf! For as long as i've owned mk2's i've always used vw's silver synth oil but another mk2 owner tells me there is a better one. Is there?
My list:
£20 cambelt - or - £35 cambelt kit inc tensioner
£18 bosch sparks super 4
£10 k&n oil filter
£10 fuel filter
£80 front brake discs 239mm (already have new greenstuff pads)
£8 gear linkage bush kit
£50 pair of fromt elec window motors
Total = £196
Found all these on ebay, can anyone advise which is best to get from gsf? I know their parts are not always good for mk2's. thanks.
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All of the above, but, I wouldn't start engine until the cambelt was at least inspected, or replaced
Fuel is likely to be an issue, it goes off after a couple of years, this could be an issue if the car doesn't run properly, and your thinking its something else at fault
Thom
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Thanks, i wish I could get that far...
Removed sparks 1 and 4, spark 2 twists easily but keeps twisting and wont come out (plug's threads?), and the spark 3 hole wont allow the plug tool to enter as it gets stuck half-way down the shaft. I twisted, and eventually got it all the way in there and the spark twists easily, like spark 2, but I cant tell if the tool is bringing the plug with it up, as the tool gets stuck half-way up the shaft and detaches from my ratchet!! I tell u what, I'm getting very pissed with this car and probably better off getting a new engine!!
2.0 tsi - yes please!
I cant find any info on spark plugs getting stuck, surely this has happened before?
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sounds liek you'll have to have the rocker cover off to get your tool out. common issue on these, some of the aftermarket gaskets sqush out into the plug holes a bit too much. I have also learnt this the hard way, so whenever I do sparkies I tape the plug tool to my ratchet!
it does sound like your plugs are threaded, but it can be fixed with the head in situ. someone I know had the same problem on their ABF engine, and got it fixed with a helicoil type insert. was done with head on, there is a risk of metal shavings getting into the piston but if you give it a good hoover out it should be ok. worst case and engine blows up, 2.0 16v time ;)
http://www.clubgti.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=201407
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rocker cover off? That'll be the inlet manifold off too! Yes it certainly feels like the gasket has mushed its way into the spark plug holes, but only on plug 3 and not all 4!!! Obviously i will need a new rocker gasket kit, and maybe for the inlet manifold (because its 2 parts) aswell.
Can I have some advice on the replacement gaskets I need for all this please. Thanks. h.
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yep fraid so. before you start check which inlet you have. if its the larger 50mm one then if you can, unbolt the inlet at the bottom as then you wont need to replace the upper gasket. this is a problem as the 50mm upper gasket is NLA at VW and I dont think any pattern parts are available :(
the lower gasket is available from GSF, and they also do the smaller inlet upper gasket:
11047 - VALVE COVER GASKET SET - 9.85
11816 - INLET MANIF.GASKET-UPPER - 4.10
11817 - INLET MANIF.GASKET-LOWER - 2.20
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Hello - thanks for all your info, looking at the 2 sparks i did manage to take off, they are not right. They dont have the fingers at the top, and looking with a torch into the holes, I can see the 3-prong fingers stuch in there. So that means I have 4 plugs that cant be taken out. I thought about sticking a long screwdriver in between those fingers amd twisting it out but I dont want to as they will probably snap off into the cylinder.
So it looks like the head has to come off - good opportunityy to get that lightened and balanced 2.0 9a bottom end mated with a new polished and ported KR head that I always wanted - cant find any! I think my most likely route will be to keep the 1.8 KR bottom-end in the car, and buy a refurbed but not modified KR head and use as a daily driver.
There is no shortage of 2nd-hand KR heads on the market, but they are all old and i might as well get one that has been refurbed with new cam chain and valve seals etc (polished and ported not absolutely necessary for daily driver - but would be nice :wink:).
Anyone know of any companies who sell complete refurbed KR heads? thanks!
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M 16valver had deen standing aout 10 years according to the last owner. Ihad to replace both fuel pumps before she fired up and then i had to give the air meter a good clean up.The needle was stuck so i wrapped it in a rag and pulled it out with some pliers. cleaned it with petrol and she runs sweet now. change the cam belt asap. mine was ready to snap! :grin: I enjoyed getting it running thou. both pumps i found off ebay second hand. good luck :smiley:
Not sure what you mean. I used to take apart the entire air filter housing along with all the parts to and including the throttle, and give it a good clean with carburettor cleaner along with the isv valve as part of my regular servicing if thats what u mean - stuck needle???
sorry im a bit late replying and sorry to hear about the plugs breaking up.
The needle i was talking about is the one the air meter controls. it sits inside the fuel distributer, when i pulled the air plate (disk) up it was very tight and every time i got the engine runing, it would flood itself, until i pulled the needle out and cleaned it.
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... I think my most likely route will be to keep the 1.8 KR bottom-end in the car ...
How come you don't want to change to 2.0 - it will give you a lot more bang for your buck than a beefed up,expensive KR head?
Anyone know of any companies who sell complete refurbed KR heads? thanks!
Perhaps TSR?
http://www.tsr-performance.com/pages/heads16v.asp
... read this http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=133092.0;topicseen
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Ive done it! Bought a standard abf, will collect it tomorrow. I can't find anyone to do the work so taking 2 weeks off work to do this myself. Iv done all sorts of servicing and replacing parts but never an engine transplant! THEN I started looking into it more on this site and now I'm worried about the kjet fuel system, isn't it supposed to be a straight engine swap?
Anyway I'm looking to sell my kr on auction site so the new owner can remove the head and sort the plugs themselves. But they will have a good motor! Maybe I should have waited for a decent 9a instead!!