GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: Len on 16 October 2009, 11:49
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Have done an extensive search but no full fitting guide!
So has anybody done this?
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dont you just drill some holes+ bolt it on?
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dont you just drill some holes+ bolt it on?
thats what i thought it was as well.
have read on vr6oc that if u have air con u need to move the pipes and attach them to the strut brace. most seem to have have just tied them to the back of the brace with a cable tie.
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Well it was more things like do I have to drop the struts to get the bolts in?
If I drill from top will I have to do that first so I dont drill into top mounts etc.
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You here some people fitting them with self tappers with the kit, and sounds crazy.
Would say bolting it would be ok, but surely if you want it to do its job it should be welded on too, so theres no movement?
Also have you checked clearance, as i know people have had trouble on 16vs with it clearning the throttle.
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I did think of being lazy and using some big self tappers! But dismissed that straight away!
Nah welding aint necessary if you use good quality bolts.
Yes I have checked clearance!
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In that case, would just drop the struts out, drill and bolt it in.
But would probably go over the top and make sure you seal/paint where you drill, so it dont give a weakeness to rot or anything.
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Oh yeah! Goes without saying that you seal any holes drilled in chassis metal!
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Fitment depends on which one you buy. Some foul on the throttle body / manifold. With mine I had to move the coolant overflow bottle slightly.
Waste of time fitting one with self tappers. Bolt fitting is acceptable but not as good as welding to the strut tops.
Drilling and bolting can be done with the struts in place if the fixing holes are in a larger diameter circle than the top mounts. Bit fiddly getting your arm up the strut tower to hold the nuts or bolts.
Paul
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id use at least m8 bolts, 8.8s should be fine, not really worth welding in as may need to remove in future for access
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And as this is polished alloy how do you weld alloy to mild steel?
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Drilling and bolting can be done with the struts in place if the fixing holes are in a larger diameter circle than the top mounts. Bit fiddly getting your arm up the strut tower to hold the nuts or bolts.
Paul
I do have coilovers which are narrower than normal springs.
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I do have coilovers which are narrower than normal springs.
You should be fine then, clearance wise. If you decide to bolt through the strut tops, you'll be able to get to the nuts fairly easily.
You can also mount with Rivnuts, that's how I did mine.
3 x M8 Rivnuts on each strut, bolted from the top - makes taking it off easier. (That's how it is now...it was different in the pic below)
Most should clear the TB OK, but you may find it hard to get in to the brake fluid reservoir without taking the strut brace off.
On Air Con cars you need to do a bit of trimming usually, and a bit of re-locating/bending of the air Con pipework...but it'l go.
You will have to make some form of bracket to hold the Air Con pipework though, or it'll virbate, fatigue and crack...a couple of little brackets are ideal, but you could probably Ty-Rap it to do the job.
The standard brackets will need to be removed if the brace runs hard against the bulkhead - as mine does.
See here for some idea:
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z72/Ess_Three/Golf%20GTI%2016v%20Anniversary/TunedABFEngineNo12.jpg)
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sweet looking engine bay there :cool:
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Thats great Ess_Three! Thanks, just what I needed.
Yea I had worked out that the air-con pipe would have to be fixed another way.
I'd be afraid to drive your car! It would get dirty! :laugh:
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That engine is dirty period. lol
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Thats great Ess_Three! Thanks, just what I needed.
Yea I had worked out that the air-con pipe would have to be fixed another way.
As you see, you can get a rubber lined clip the correct diameter - but you may have to drill out the mounting hole by a few mm.
The rest of the pipework has enough 'spring' in it to be re-located easily.
I'd be afraid to drive your car! It would get dirty! :laugh:
It gets dirty...just power wash the outside and Gunk and hose off under the bonnet and all is well again.
To not drive it would mean not using the 190+ BHP it has! :wink: