GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: mark-mk3gti on 13 October 2009, 18:19
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hi all, i had a post a while back about hall sensor problems, so got a dizzy in post today, part worn but looks nerly new, still has stickers on etc, so thought id fit it cos i know timing is apparently correct, from garage, and i marked the base ready for next one but forgot to mark the blxxdy arm, so i dont know where it was, what a dummy, i'm not very mechaniclly minded but thought it would a reasonable change and then i could take it somewhere to be checked again, if i did get it slightly out, so is there anyone who can help me? looks like ill have to completely redo the timing, now, is anyone out there remotely close to me and prepared to help me sort my mess out, need the car for tues as have to get to work in it then as company one goes on mon, depressed... by the way im at sk8 postcode if it helps
thanks
mark
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Do you know how to set the crank and cam timing?
What year is the car and engine code?
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Hi thanks for ur reply, I don't know how to do it, but just being and bought the haynes manual, to find out how to find tdc, and it's a 96 agg engine, thanks, I only wanted to do all this cos I have the 5k rpm limit, in my vagcom it gives 1 just out Reading 57-60 mine is 61, and the other Reading should be between 5 - 8 n mine says 61again, so think it was axelgrinder said sensor cud be cream crackered, I know just swapping like I was gonna wasnt perfect but at worst would of got me same problem, but least I could drive it to work, it's all a bit stressfull now!
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Only revving to 5k means it's in safe mode, take the rocker cover off and remove number 1 plug, stick an impliment in the plug hole and turn engine till piston is at tdc checking that both lobes on the cam are pointing up (off cam) then position rotor arm till its pointing at no 1 lead. I think actually there is a mark on the dizzy. That should get it running, then check with timing light. If you dissconnect the battery before you start work then that should reset the ecu.
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Remove the upper timing cover on the left hand side of the engine. Engage a spanner or socket on the crankshaft pulley, turn until the notch on the cam sprocket lines up with the OT arrow.
Like this:-
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g306/golfvr/gti2.jpg)
If you look at the crankshaft pulley, it should now look like this:-
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g306/golfvr/gti1.jpg)
Now remove the distributor cap, loosen the clamp bolt, but do not remove the distributor, turn it until the rotor arm lines up with the notch on the distributor body, roughly at no.1 spark plug ht lead.
It should look like this:-
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g306/golfvr/gti3.jpg)
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hi, thanks for the info, im just not sure about doing it, cos i know its imperitive to get it right, i originally had it checked but they did it with a light, so they havent checked all notches line up with each other, but it ran ok, just tstopped at 5k, ive tried leaving it disconnected for 15 mins or so to reset ecu but the readings are still wrong according to vagcom, if i remove the code it runs ok, but stop and turn off and turn on itll be back, and so is the limiter, i reckon the guy who had it before me hasnt got the timing quite right, but i just want to get it running as it was for now at least,
when u say put somet into sparkplug hole 1, im guessing itll move up and down, so when its at its highest that should be tdc, dont suppose your local to me are you? and fancy earning a few quid helping me?
cheers for the info also
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Assuming that the cam timing is ok just line the cam pulley to the ot mark as in the pic and check the rotor is lining up with its mark.
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hi mate, well ive being told its ok, cos it does run fine, it just looked like that sensor isnt working, ihve had a look at wires and they dont seem broken, just weird that they always say the same thing, n never change when running, will get it lined up as above tommorrow, and will post how it went, if it still doesnt rev properly what else cud it be? i guess then i need to have the timing checked properly ie not with a light, if thats ok where next?
cheers fellers :) feel a bit happier now, stress from work n car certainly getting high at the mo
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Did you loosen the cam belt to position the rotor arm?
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no, didnt mess with any of that side,just unbolted dizzy and wiggled out, wasnt too bad really, cos it looked like original, im hoiping that means if i line back up as u say then it should be as it was before i messed about, 29 and dont no much bout mechanics only how to drive them, so thanks for ur help!
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So u recokon it'll be ok then? Cos I didn't loosen cam belt to remove? Cheers
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You need to remove what ever you have fitted, put it to tdc1 as explained in the pics on the first page, fit the dizzy, and fit the arm so it is in line with where the ht lead is that goes to clyinder no1 as by lining up the pulley with the notch you are putting the first clyinder to top dead center, and that is how its timed up.
If you havnt loosened the belts, it should be an easy fix and no damage.
If you still dont understand then i would get a haynes and read it from there. Best bet.
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hi there all,
got it sorted just now, all back to how it was, but the interesting thing i found is that when i lined up top pulley to its mark, the lower crank pulley was about 10-12mm to the right of the mark!! I paid to have it checked last monday, i saw him do it with a light gun, and while i waited back on the sofa the boss told him to pop the cover off and check, bit annoyed really, cos spent 65-70 quid on a dizzy haynes and few other bits, to find out if its the hall sensor, so now its booked in again on monday to have them lined up.
only thing is, im thinking, if ive lined dizzy up with the top pulley, and the crank pulley is out, am i right in thinking they just need to loosen the belt and move it back round to its mark? or do they have to re time the whole thing? its an agg engine, btw just so i know what to tell them to do.. :)
hopefully my 5k rpm limit will be gone soon!! YAY!
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Certainly the cam timing being out by a tooth will cause the ecu to go to safe mode, but how did it happen if it has not been touched? I would replace the cam belt and tensioner to be on the safe side and get the cam and ignition timing set up by someone who knows what he is doing if your not 100% sure.
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update,, now chuffed as a box of frogs, just ran vagcom on car cos lappy wa flat before, and to my amazement the figures changed, so i did what leegt said he did and turned dizzy anti clockwise 2mm and it got nearer to spec, so i turned it again, closer still, final time turning and now within spec!! so no fault codes now, 5k limit should be gone, gonna go round block in a min,
only thing now worrying me is the crank puley was further round slightly than the line, when top pulley was at tdc mark? so do i still get it corrected or leave it now its running correct?
im guessing it still needs sorting out, but whats the verdict?
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so what u reckon i should do, cos its not in safe mode now,
so it does look like the hall sensor was knackered, take back prev slagging of mechanic,
the prev owner had cambelt done 7k ago, and to me the belt looks ok, so dont know if it needs changing for a while, not sure what to do now cos it seems to be running well, gonna go down road now, so will post back in a min.
cheers
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To tell you the truth I find cranckshaft tdc marks unreliable as they are sometimes a few degrees before tdc for ignition timing purposes. I prefer to stick a screwdriver or whatever in the plug hole then you know its tdc. Having said that the camshaft tdc mark is 100% reliable, just make sure as I said that you feel the piston rocking at tdc as you turn the engine back and forth.
When I did the cambelt on my 8v the crank pulley marks didnt make any sense to me so I used the one on the fly wheel but when I tried it it was in safe mode So I found tdc with the srewdriver and checked the cam pulley mark. 1 tooth out, so set it to the mark and set dizzy to its mark and perfect.
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Hi mate, thanks for that, sounds bit like mine, I've got dizzy and cam (this is the flywheel isn't it) aligned correctly now, and at that the crank mark is bout 10mm to the right of it's mark,
just being to shops and not in safe mode runs and revs fine, I didn't actuallycheck with a screwdriver but as I was turning it to the mark it did feel like it was there cos as I got near it went easy to turn and moved past, had to turn it back a bit to get back, Checked on vag com before shops and nofaults, readings were all in spec, so from what u say maybe I should leave well alone now as it's running right, the guy who had it b4 was a mot tester At Honda and worked on it himself, so guessing he got cambelt right but the hAll sensor had packed up sometime after, he never mentioned it but I didn't notice cos don't drive it like I pinched it, lol, only found the limited cos pulled out in front of someone 2week ago,
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Mate if its reving over 5k and on Vagcom the hall sensor measuring block readings are all within spec and your not getting faults appear then I'd be happy that everything is as it should be...
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cheers, i was kinda hoping someone would say that, cos its what i was thinking, cheers for ur post earlier last week also, about tuning dizzy counter clockwise slightly, cos i did it earlier and got readings down to spec :) bye bye error codes, for now anyway!