GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Sam on 11 October 2009, 17:03
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Hey there guys, i while ago i came on and said about an oil leak and decided it was my sump gasked which when replaced, marginly fixed the problem... from what i can see the rocker gasket seems to be the culprit as there is oil on the actual plate (not alot but a wee bit) and right down the back and a lil on the front (tiny amount).
I have tried to check the oil presure switch reader thingy but i cant find it? any advice, haynes as per usual is fack all help on what i need help with.
Basicly how hard is the rocker gasket to replace and what should i look out for whilst doing it? It doesnt seem like too bigger job but then again nor do alot of things and do you think the rocker gasket is actually the source of my problems?
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Piss easy even I can change them :grin:
Make sure you get a metal reinforced rubber gasket rather than the crappy cork gaskets, I've been through 2 cork gaskets from GSF both were poor fit which is why I've gone for a better quality gasket.
Just need to get round to fitting it now :grin:
remove the 8x 10mm nuts holding the R/C and reinforcing strips, remove R/C and clean it up and paint it while it's off :wink: remove all the old gasket, mine came straight off and didn't need to be scrapped off (part of it was missing too! :grin: )
If you get the rubber gasket you'll get replacement studs too, which you will need to fit before installing the new gasket, looks like it might be interesting replacing them as they don't have Alan key holes like the polished studs & Dome nut caps I also bought have (these polished studs look too short :rolleyes: :angry: they're 1/2 the length of the other replacement studs that came with the gasket).
In short it's easy, not that messy and a good opportunity to paint the R/C.
The torque setting for the nuts is 10nm, although it's not stated in the manual in which order to do them up this is the order I do them up:
6428
7135
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jay, 16vs are different - they have bolts in the centre too :rolleyes: :lipsrsealed:
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haha didn't realise you had a valver :grin:
In the case it's a bit more difficult... :laugh:
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try lookin in his siggy :huh: :lipsrsealed:
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Siggys are off :tongue: Certain people have humongous sigs and slows the page load time :tongue:
.. and my boss keeps making stupid remarks about me being on a car forum and asking if I'm looking at cars to buy :rolleyes:
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Yer sorry its a 16valver.... so its a little more complex looking than taking of the rocker... i wish is was as simple.
So anyone else??
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To remove and install cylinder head cover and gasket (16-valve engines only):
1.
Remove spark plug wire connectors. Remove the intake air boot from the throttle housing and remove the
small rubber hose between the intake air boot and the idle air valve.
2.
Disconnect the electrical connector for the charcoal canister control valve, and the large vacuum hose from
the back of the upper intake manifold.
3.
Remove the support bolt from the back of the upper intake manifold, then remove the five nuts and washers
that join the upper intake manifold to the lower intake manifold.
4.
Rotate the upper manifold up and away from the engine. Remove and label electrical connections or
vacuum hoses as required. Then secure the manifold out of the way.
5.
Remove the two inner bolts and the six outer bolts from the cover, and lift the cover from the cylinder head. If
necessary, use a soft hammer to loosen the cover. Remove the center gasket from the cylinder head or the
cover.
CAUTION-
Use care when removing a stuck gasket. Damage to either
surface will cause leaks. Use only a gasket removing tool
designed for the purpose.
6.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Torque the eight cover bolts to 10 Nm (87 in. lb.). Torque the five
manifold nuts and the manifold support bolt to 20 Nm (15 ft. lb.). Torque the support bolt last.
:wink:
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Wow, now thats what im looking for, thanks dude massive help. Does it sound like this is my problem from what i have said??
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Wow, now thats what im looking for, thanks dude massive help. Does it sound like this is my problem from what i have said??
Also will a stanley blade scraper surfice for gasket removal?
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Internet diagnosis is the worst kind :grin: But it could be the gasket and I'd replace it anyway (they're cheap) and if the one in there looks OK (not soiled by oil) then start looking elsewhere... Not trying to scare you or anything.
GSF: 11047 VALVE COVER GASKET SET G2 16V 2/86 >10/91 9.85
If it's not rubber try and find a rubber one.
Also will a stanley blade scraper surfice for gasket removal?
Yeah, it's what I was going to use :grin:
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Well lookin like a trip to gsf... could have done that today! doh
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I don't remember the mk2 having an charcoal canister?
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have a look at your crank case pressure. could be too high causing seals to weep. wot boost are you running at w your turbo? is your waste gate stuck shut? check the engine breather pipes too. :shocked:
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have a look at your crank case pressure. could be too high causing seals to weep. wot boost are you running at w your turbo? is your waste gate stuck shut? check the engine breather pipes too. :shocked:
The boost really isnt that much, i think it runs at .2 and .8? I will check laters. The waste gate/dump should be fine and still makes the same psh as it always has..... how would i check the crank case presure then?
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i dont think there is a way of mesuring, i mentioned this because mate of mine a few years ago had a problem with his fiesta rs turbo, 1990. chipped and v quick but he kept having oil leaks and did once actually blow the dip stick out LOL :laugh:. he found a breather pipe kinked that was causing his problems.