GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: antogoof on 10 October 2009, 12:59
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had a problem over the last week, i have put 16v prakes on my 8v mk2. i have goodridge hoses to put on and the nut on the union in the front wheelarch is solid............
i mean solid.
tried wd40, brake cleaner and heat, none of which worked. using an 11mm spanner on the nut is a turd as well as if you give it too much grief it will round the nut.
i was going to cut the brake pipe and re flare it, but the flaring tools i have been looking at are about £80 for steel pipe.
i can buy a kit for less than £35 to re do the brake lines in copper with all the unions, cutter, pipe bender and flaring tool, but i am a bit dubious as to the quality as the exsisting lines are steel.
would copper be ok to use instead of steel?
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Yeah I've used copper pipes on all my Golfs when I've had to replace them.
nick
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i dont really know what probs it could possibly cause but i was just a bit concerned as it has steel lines and copper is a bit weaker?
thans nick btw :smiley:
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iv always use copper pipes, it is a lot easier to work with than steel and never corrode
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copper lines I believe are a bit thicker to cope with the pressure but other than that I don't think there's any difference.
nick
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I wipe a bit of copper grease on them as you do get surface rust
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"copper" brake lines are usually kunifer and surely that has to be an improvement over steel?
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sound. its a done deal then, copper it is.
thanks for all the replies. :smiley:
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Copper is the standard for replacement pipe.
Steel is manufacturers line - and is VERY difficult to flare, it cracks easily.
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i use copper/nickel mix pipe as its a bit stiffer and i think it shapes a bit nicer than copper
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+1 on the copper/nickel mix.
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first i would buy some good quality brake pipe spanners mate, i've just renewed both front flexi's on my 16v this morning and to start off with i tried using normal snap on spanners but they wouldn't budge just like yours, my mate came over with his "signet" brake pipe spanners and they cracked them off first time no problem. i think it's because they cover another 1 of the hexegan corners of the nut so you can get lots more power on 5 points of the nut, rather than just applying power to 3 points of the nut with a mormal spanner
sorry about the essay....................but i hope you get my drift and it helps you out :wink:
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these are the beauties..................
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/S33720-SIGNET-FLARE-NUT-SPANNERS-4PC-SET-9-17mm_W0QQitemZ400040421053QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Hand_Tools_Equipment?hash=item5d244466bd&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
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Cupronickel ftw
Copper is not used on production cars cos its mega expensive :smiley:
It is also a little soft and does not take to impact very well
Cupronickel is a little tougher and corrosion resistant also electrode neutral.
Stainless is also good but more difficult to shape :smiley:
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steel is just used oem as it's cheeper.
copper/nickel is actualy much better.
shapes easyer, dosent corrode, and if you rebend it it wont crack also you can do tighter bends with it
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bought a kit off fleabay at 33 quid delivered it came today so i am gonna have a pop at it tomorrow or another day when im not fooked! cheers for all the advice anyway everyone. :smiley:
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I made up all the brake pipes on my Cobra with copper and it went through the SVA and MOT with it, and it was recommended, so yes, copper is fine.
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Copper is fine. I have my own flaring kit with a reel of copper pipe.
Made one up for a neighbour last week, its still ok as far as i know :huh: