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General => The garage => Topic started by: Shorty on 23 August 2009, 15:48
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Help required with this one please ! 1996 golf 16v gti runs for 20/25 mins then cuts out. If i try to start it right away it will fire then cut cut out again. Leave it a few mins and it will run again for a few mins then cut out again. It's had a new distributor and crank sensor fitted and all sensors have checked out ok (1 temp sensor replaced). I have a diagnostic tool which is showing up fault codes
00513-G28 engine speed sensor
00740-G145 cyl 1 recognition sensor
00525-G39 oxygen sensor
00523-G42 intake ait temp sensor
I cleared all fault codes and the only ones coming up now are the first two above. The first one 00513-g28 will i think show a fault if the car is NOT running so i think i can ignore that one but unsure about the second fault, is this the hall sensor ?
Any help or pointers towards fixing this fault once and for all would be greatly appreciated.
Oh, ALL the relays have been changed as well but still it cuts out.
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check your wiring at the back of the inlet manifold it runs along the back of the rocker mine all fused together from the heat of the engine it took me ages to find out why it kept cutting out
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enigne speed sensor is critacal on digifant 3. ecu needs it to work out the cranck angel and speed, without it it can't work out when to send sparks
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abf will run with the hall sensor on dizzy completly disconnected, so it wont be that. check the fault codes on the immobilisor unit as well, could be thats failing
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it'll run without the lambda, it just hunts. it'll go without the air temp sensor as well tho it runs a bit crap
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my mates abf ran pretty much the same without a lambda, as he had to drive it for a bit before he could get it booked in to have a lambda fitting welded in. another mate had his air temp sensor plugged into the breather heater plug, seemed to run ok but a bit off. Same guy who had his dizzy disconnected without realising, so cant say which made it run worse worse :grin:
abf pretty hardy injection system, but they dont like the vac pipe beign disconnected or a faulty crank sensor. Worth checking the coil as well
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Thanks for the replies guys, will keep you informed of any progress/updates
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the dizzy on the 16v dosent really do a lot, it allows the ecu to do sequential injection, so it's firing 1 injector at a time and squirting fuel at ports with open valves. only problem with that is after about 20% output is acheved the injector needs more time to get the fuel in than the valve is open for. it's more of an idel low throttel economy thing but it dosent really make that much differance. if it looses the dizzy signal it'll just jump to alternating or batch injection
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Hi Guys, checked out most things today including ALL the above suggestions but still no joy :angry: Any other pointers or suggestions before i burn it !!!
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check the condition of the brown wires in the loom that goes round the engine
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Hi guys, right been at this all week and not getting anywhere with it. Here's what i've done so far:
inlet manifold and throttle valve cleaned, now spotless including all breathers
crank sensor swapped over
coil changed
new distributor and cap/rotor arm
all wiring checked
all relays replaced
When it cuts out still getting a spark and fuel
One thing i've noticed is starting from cold it will run for exactly 18 MINUTES and the oil temp reaches 90 degs every time before it cuts out
I've tried this a few times now and it's always 18mins/90degs
Any further pointers ?
:angry: :angry: :angry:
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disconnect the lambda probe plug and try again
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disconnect the lambda probe plug and try again
Done that yesterday, no different.
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try the the water temp sensor
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ummm allways 90 degrees, not met one doing that yet with an oem ecu.
temp sensor is obvious to suspect, not by anychance got a thermoswitch misplaces in the workings
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Brand new temp sensor fitted and ecu reset on saturday and it still doing it :angry:
Anyone got ANY ideas ?
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do you hear the fuel pump run on for a few seconds after it cuts out?
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It definately aint lack of fuel, tons of the stuff spewing out from the delivery side of injector rail.
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Hi Guys,
Stripped out everything on timing side and removed water pump and thermostat, all seems well with those parts and timing was spot on. Just finished rebuilding it but going to change the other temp sender (the one that screws into cyl.head). Any one know what this sender actually does? Also noticed that when it does get hot that it seems to be REALLY hot and although the fans cut in they are only on slow speed, just wondering if this would maybe point to the above temp sender switch?
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the 2 pin one is for the ecu, the single pin one is for the dash. fans are controlled by the temp sensor in the radiator, and the control unit up under the header tank. how hot is REALLY hot
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SOLVED IT !!!! :smug:
After a lot of diagnostic work and testing I've finally found the fault.
The radiator fan switch is shot and the fan is not being triggered when the engine is HOT.
Before the engine is overheating (gauge showing 90c but temp is actually at 110c) the ecu is shutting down
the engine, let it cool a little and it starts again untill the same thing happens again.
Switch now hardwired (temp mod) and she runs fine, had it running for an hour yesterday and took it for a quick
blast along the road last night (only couple of miles ) but seems sweet.
Just need to get in for a MOT test now !!!
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interesting issue there, i never knew the abf ecu could kill the engine if it got too hot!