GolfGTIforum.co.uk
General => The garage => Topic started by: WYATT on 22 August 2009, 20:48
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Alrite ust wodnering if you could help me on my way i have tryed to think of all the parts i need just to double check im not missing anything , this is for my 1,8 driver 1992, and im wanting to put a 2.0l 16v abf lump into it ,
Complete Engine with all aux's ,
Manifold plus downpipe
ECU
Loom
Raditior
Fuel pump in the tank ( as mine is non GTI) or how new tank?
Airbox with all air feed and air flow sensor
I have already fitted the 16v front 256mm brake setup and rear axle plus servo/master cylindar,
Could i still use my 8v gearbox its just been rebuilt not long ago and keep those drive shafts,
If i have missed anything would be great if you could let me know ,
Cheers Joe
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You've missed out the Golf2 shell.
I've got a set of 288mm front brakes, but they're 5-stud - they'll be cheap.
I'd suggest you go for the cable-change box - £10 says it'll last longer than your rebuilt 'box. Is your diff bolted or still stock riveted?
Bank on fitting new engine mounts, too.
And a new cambelt to the ABF.
And a new cambelt tensioner.
While you're there you might as well do the rocker gasket and the sump gasket, too.
Bear in mind that the ABF has a strengthening frame that bolts to the sump and then the gearbox. Will that fit on a rod-change gearbox.
Where's your motor coming from?
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i would be toally rebuilding this engine, so i'd do that cambelt and all that , would the 288mm be mch better, my 16v ones have had new wheels bearings and painted so dont really want to see them go sort of , would the 020 box of mine still fit?
Cheers Joe
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The 020 box will fit, but unless you've got a bolted diff crownwheel in there it's going to tear itself to pieces pretty quickly.
I can't confirm how much difference 256-288 will make, but the ABF was only fitted with 280mm and bigger rotors on the front, so your insurer could say your car was 'under braked' if anything went tits.
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Alrite nice ones thanks i'll think about the brakes then , where would i get one of those bolted diff crownwheel from?
Cheers Joe
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Various places do bolt kits.
The big issue is that you strip the gearbox down TO the diff - it pretty much all has to come apart to bolt the diff. It's the sort of thing you only do if you're rebuilding the gearbox.
Thankfully cable-change gearboxes are dirt cheap. Yeah yeah, I have one of those too.
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what dh is trying to say is there is a chance of the diff rivets failing, its not a certainty
i have been looking into cable change box's and to do it properly to get the same good ratios of the 020 you need to take the fd from one 02a and put it in another. plus it weighs 10kg's more. plus the flywheel is twice the weight. the standard ratios are pretty crap tbh
its worth going cable change but you need to do it properly. apart from its reliability the 020 is an excellent box.
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it's not really a chance with riveted diffs, it will fail just a question of when. if your box has been rebuilt properly it really should have a bolted diff anyway. as that is how you put them back together. reconditioned boxes from VAG had bolted diffs they just refused to bot them first time round.
the most VW ever put through an 020 out the factory was 139 bhp from the KR. hard driven std 16v's have a bit of a reputation for lunching there gearboxes hence the corrado got a cabel shift box even with the KR.
the other way of looking at it is the cogs in most boxes will take + 40% of what the biggest engine fitted to them made, that says 195 bhp is the absolute MAXIMUM it'll handel for a short while. but the highest output std output whitch really was reliable through 020 was 112 bhp so that says 150 - 160 bhp is about the maximum it can handel. a lot depends on your tyers, crap tyers will just spin up so force on diff won't be that much but sticky tyers will expose the box to much higher internal loadings and cause death,
hence why 020 boxes on syncros are such a problem it's not the acyual syncro part of the drivetain that the problem normaly but the diff or cogs in the actual box, as they don't really do wheelspin the box gets much higher loadings at lower outputs they have a very low ratio diff and diesel gears int he box to help take the load off the cogs but 150 bhp can be enough to bugger the mainshaft
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well everything on the car is gonna blow up, its just a question of when!
what im saying is just bolting on a 02a is gonna make the car slower. id rather risk the 020 and replace when it blows up until i can afford to build a decent 02a, which requires a new fd to make the ratios any good for a mk2.
plus the flywheel is heavier so to reduce the weight of that you need to remove the crank from the engine to balance it after lightening. and while the box is split it would be rude not to fit an lsd, but thats another £600. :laugh:
not exactly a 'bolt on a cable change box' solution. it might be essential in your syncro's but if you have a bit of mechanical sympathy they can last in 2wd's. i have had 4 16vs with 020 2y box's, all in different states of tune and not one has failed on me.
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you do not need to remove the cranck to lighten or balance the flywheel, a lot of enigne shops just tell you that so you think while i've got the cranck out i'll just....
ive know of quite a few 16v's that have reduces 2y's to shrapnel admitedly they were all driven quick but if you don't hard why are you fitting another engine.
as said in other post i'll hold but it's on the line IMO
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i thought you needed the crank attached to balance it properly
all my cars have been driven hard lol, the latest one has done about 20,000 road miles and 5 track days with abf fitted.
i just think fitting a cable change without doing a lot of work to it is a step backwards. ill just replace the box if it goes until a proper cable change box is built
ive temped fate now havent i. expect a 'i have blown up my gearbox' post on wed eve
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in olden days it used to get balanced as an assembly but there all indevidualy done now, when you think about it ALL the 2ltr petrols have the same cranckshaft so even have varying types of flywheel bolted to them.
main reason machene shop wants the cranck is so they can just pllonk the lot int he balancer if you give them just a flywheel thay have to have or make a boss to hold it.
ooops
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had my flywheel balanced via merlin motorsport at coomb, tho piston broke did the machening
No you didn't, it was machined by Piston Broke and then balanced by an unknown party through InterPro at Thornbury. :tongue:
Mine was lightened and balanced by http://www.jnlracing.co.uk/ when I had my head breathed on.
There are two choices when balancing, really.
Either you can balance the flywheel on it's own, or you need to balance the flywheel and the complete rotating mass of crank, rods and pistons, oh and the clutch ,too.
I think it's safe to assume that VW build the engines as a 'built' unit, so the balancing tolerances are resonably close. As Danny's said they fit a number of different types of flywheels to the motors, so these are probably made and balanced separately. Likewise, the clutches would be manufactured and balanced at another factory, completely separately. The benefit of the lightened flywheel is most easily accessed by just getting the unit lightened and balanced. My and Danny's flywheels haven't torn the motors to pieces yet, although as eny fule no, I do drive like a girl and am frankly, rev-o-phobic.
Depending on the application, the cable-changer does have another great benefit, in that it allows you to re-position the shifter mech nice and high up, which makes quite a big difference to how fast you shift. We did Danny's some time ago and I will definitely do mine when I do another batch of work on my car, only I'll go even higher than his, so the shifter falls to hand even better.
If the motor and box are out I would say 'fit a cable-changer' - it's going to be a pain to have everything out again if you blow up the box shortly after. Plus the CDA box, although quite leggy is a well-matched set of ratios to the application. The Toledo I killed recently worked very well with this set of cogs and unless you're taking the car on track regularly and *want* sprint gearing I'd say stick with stock on that front.
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had my flywheel balanced via merlin motorsport at coomb, tho piston broke did the machening
No you didn't, it was machined by Piston Broke and then balanced by an unknown party through InterPro at Thornbury. :tongue:
Mine was lightened and balanced by http://www.jnlracing.co.uk/ when I had my head breathed on.
well it was half right ish. it went away it came back later