GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Golf mk4 TDI => Topic started by: asif on 30 July 2009, 08:57
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Just a quickie for some feedback, So as it states what miles was your car on when your clutch went?
Did you get any tell tale signs it was going? If so what were they?
How much did you pay? and for what parts i.e just clutch or clutch and flywheel? Or any other parts that got fooked in the process?
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Still got the original clutch car has done 97000 had the reamp done at 92000
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I'm on about 88k now and my clutch is on the way out :cry:
I had a Revo remap done about 2 years ago and have done 16k ish on it before I got any signs.
My clutch hasn't completely gone yet, but if I put the engine under load it slips, so the revs go up but the car doesn't pick up much speed. So I'm driving like a little old lady at the moment in order to make it last until I can get it sorted, which should hopefully be pretty soon.
I've not got any quotes yet but from what I've read (mainly on here) it's gonna be just shy of a grand to get it replaced with a sachs uprated clutch including labour.
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103k now, remapped for almost 25k and still fine (touch wood) its on the original clutch aswell :smiley:
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At mine is about to go soon, I'm been finding out all I can and stumbled upon this article which gives a pretty comprehensive overview of VM TDI clutches, signs of wear, SMF vs DMF, etc.
Thought it would probably be of interest to anyone reading this post, so here you are:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/clutchfaq.htm (http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/clutchfaq.htm)
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Again I know this is an old topic but hoping somebody can help. Would the below clutch fit a Mk 4 Golf GT TDi?
Cheers,
Mike
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VOLKSWAGEN-CORRADO-GOLF-PASSAT-VR6-FAST-ROAD-CLUTCH_W0QQitemZ280438213176QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item414b6b8a38 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VOLKSWAGEN-CORRADO-GOLF-PASSAT-VR6-FAST-ROAD-CLUTCH_W0QQitemZ280438213176QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item414b6b8a38)
Mk4 VW TDI, 1998-2005 new beetle, 1999.5-2003 jetta, 1999-2006 golf
Stock clutch ALH engine TDI came with 2 different clutches, both are solid hub and used with a DMF.
1998-2000 cars used a 220mm Luk clutch, stock PP is VW# 028 141 025 p, clutch is # 028 141 036 L.
2000-2003 cars used a 228mm Sachs clutch, stock PP is # 038 141 025 d, clutch is # 038 141 031 h or 038 131 032 dx .
Model year 2000 cars may have either clutch but they probably have the sachs clutch.
The Luk clutch/pressure plate is not the same clutch used in the VW 1.8T gas engine but they look similar. The 1.8T engine 220mm PP is #06a 141 025 e, the 1.8T clutch is #06a 141 031 d. The 1.8T engine also used a 225mm clutch kit. The Luk TDI clutch can hold more torque (about 250 ft-lbs) than the Sachs TDI clutch (about 190 ft lbs) before slipping. These suggested torque limits are conservative and on the low end, some can go higher without slipping. A power chip alone may be enough to cause the later clutches to slip, depending on the specific driver, car mods, power curve, etc. Your car may be slightly different.
Clutch fork is VW# 02j 131 719 c, clutch fork spring is #012 131 741, clutch pivot ball pin is #02a 141 777, release bearing is #02a 131 165 a, pressure plate bolts (quantity:12) are #n 907 253 01, flywheel bolts (m10x1x22,3) #n 906 650 0
Stronger clutch kits The 228mm vr6 clutch is a good choice but will not bolt up to your existing DMF. The 1990-1992 VW Corrado G60 solid flywheel will fit all model years and will bolt up to the vr6 clutch and is the basic choice. Note: you can use the vr6 clutch with a G60 flywheel but cannot use the vr6 flywheel because 6 cylinder engines use a different crankshaft bolt pattern. The clutch kit can hold about 330 ft-lbs torque. Clutch pedal weight will be slightly less than stock, read the full article for more details. There are also clutch kits that use longer clutch hub springs that smooth NVH but it will not be as great as a DMF. Also remember that you can't mix/match the valeo and sachs clutch kit with a different brand PP. Most clutch kits include both clutch and PP anyways.
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only if its a 5 speed box
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Ah. How do I tell if it will fit the 5 or 6 speed?
Might this one fit a 6 speed?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PERFORMANCE-CLUTCH-FLYWHEEL-KIT-VW-GOLF-MK4-1-9-TDI-ATD_W0QQitemZ330354659043QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item4ceaac0ee3
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Ah. How do I tell if it will fit the 5 or 6 speed?
Might this one fit a 6 speed?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PERFORMANCE-CLUTCH-FLYWHEEL-KIT-VW-GOLF-MK4-1-9-TDI-ATD_W0QQitemZ330354659043QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item4ceaac0ee3
nope
wrong engine code
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I’ve been taking a strong interest in your derv project thread and read it through in full several times. It’s given me a few ideas of what I might want to do in the time that I own my Mk 4 derv.
In shopping for the Golf so far I’m starting to think that a TDi 130 and later getting a R-Tech remap could be the best option. I want to factor in the cost of a replacement clutch so that in the event it starts slipping, I don’t get any nasty surprises. If it had to be the cost of your Sachs Organic Clutch I would probably rather just leave it stock 130. What are my other options as I agree with you that a stock clutch replacement isn't going to be cost effective.
Cheers,
Mike
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Hope you're enjoyed reading my project :smiley:
I know Steve_PD has been looking at a company in America, think they're called South Bend or something, with regards to clutch kits
Not too sure on other clutch kits - think Helix might do one but thats with a single mass flywheel which will rattle like fook on idle :sad:
thing with the clutch it can either last ages or go very quickly :undecided: it depends on the current condition which you don't know unless you strip it out
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Yes very much so :smiley:
Well like I say I wont be replacing it unless it starts slipping but I just don't want to get 20,000 miles under my belt and find that I'm going to have to spend another £600 - £700 on a replacement clutch because then the cost of the remap and clutch will be in the region of a grand. I would have rather had a stock Mk 5 :undecided:
PS group-buy clutch kits could be an idea if enough people wanted them :huh:
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Yes very much so :smiley:
Well like I say I wont be replacing it unless it starts slipping but I just don't want to get 20,000 miles under my belt and find that I'm going to have to spend another £600 - £700 on a replacement clutch because then the cost of the remap and clutch will be in the region of a grand. I would have rather had a stock Mk 5 :undecided:
PS group-buy clutch kits could be an idea if enough people wanted them :huh:
Steve has gotten around 25K out of his standard clutch since his remap whereas mine lasted 2K before biting the dust :sad:
Would depend on which MK5 you go for. IMO only the 170bhp would be worth going for. I've driven the 140bhp and there's very little in it in terms of straight line performance when my 130bhp was standard (many moons ago!). The biggest difference between MK4 and MK5 is the handling. The MK5 is in a different league
I think getting a discount on clutches could be difficult :undecided: always worth a try though :smiley:
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25K is still only about a years use for me though so I need to plan ahead. The way I am looking at it is the remap and clutch (if it slips) is part of the cost of the car.
I definitely can't afford the clutch you got at £900. I know you wanted the best you could find but the invoice would make me cry :cry: I got a replacement gearbox and new clutch fitted to my Clio for around £500
What about the clutch kits that R-Tech offer? Could any of these be an option?
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25K is still only about a years use for me though so I need to plan ahead. The way I am looking at it is the remap and clutch (if it slips) is part of the cost of the car.
I definitely can't afford the clutch you got at £900. I know you wanted the best you could find but the invoice would make me cry :cry: I got a replacement gearbox and new clutch fitted to my Clio for around £500
What about the clutch kits that R-Tech offer? Could any of these be an option?
The clutch kits R-tech do are more than fine as they use some of the Sachs components (think its the friction plate); I went for the friction and pressure plate as I wanted to be more than sure it would last and take the abuse :smiley:
Also if you get them to do the remap you can always ask Nick to hold back the torque if you're a bit unsure :smiley: The standard clutch is good for approx 285lbs ft torque
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In fairness I'm looking at Golfs from 75K to 140K miles so the clutch is going to need replaced sooner or later if it hasn't been already. I just want to have the £ for when it needs to be done.
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mines been mapped for 42k still on the original map no slipping no nothign i drive it hard too so no grandad driver, my previos golf ewas remapped for 30k and was still fine when i sold it albeit a cat C!
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What milage did you get the map done and what milage arte you at now?
mines been mapped for 42k still on the original map no slipping no nothign i drive it hard too so no grandad driver, my previos golf ewas remapped for 30k and was still fine when i sold it albeit a cat C!
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I replaced mine ASAP after my remap with a race clutch. Some last and some don't. Its all about how the previous owners drove it.
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How much was the race clutch assy & fitting?
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How much was the race clutch assy & fitting?
R-Tech did it on a deal in October I think for 600ish.
EDIT -
Option 3 : £680 SACHS TDI PD Race clutch. Inc Sachs organic friction plate, pressure plate & release bearing
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Ouch
How much was the race clutch assy & fitting?
R-Tech did it on a deal in October I think for 600ish.
EDIT -
Option 3 : £680 SACHS TDI PD Race clutch. Inc Sachs organic friction plate, pressure plate & release bearing
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thats cheap :wink:
southbend are meant to be very good, but work out about the same as a Sach clutch
Steve has gotten around 25K out of his standard clutch since his remap whereas mine lasted 2K before biting the dust :sad:
almost a year since map so 34k :shocked: :shocked: 115k now :sad:
if you dont want to pay out for a clutch dont get it mapped
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It's cheap for what it is. Yours seems to be doing well.
I don't mind paying for a clutch, I just want to be ready for it and know what the cheapest viable option is going to be if and when it starts to slip. Just seems like sense to consider it before getting the remap done. It doesn't make sense to pay £3k for a car and £1,250 for clutch and remap though.
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dont see the point in changing it if its not slipping, might have loads of life left in it
cheapest option is a OEM one. if you are going for a upgraded one and are changing the flywheel as well its in order of price helix (SMF), Sachs (DMF), Southbend (SMF)
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dont see the point in changing it if its not slipping, might have loads of life left in it
cheapest option is a OEM one. if you are going for a upgraded one and are changing the flywheel as well its in order of price helix (SMF), Sachs (DMF), Southbend (SMF)
It's called preventive maintenance :) I had the money at the time from selling the tugboat mk3
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no need to tell me about preventive maintenance, am a maintenance fitter :tongue: although we normally do emergency maintenance :lipsrsealed:
Ive had the money for a clutch since I had it remapped, if I was only doing 12k a year my clutch would have lasted at least 3 years
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It looks like my clutch is slipping in the cold. I can get away with accelerating lightly but as soon as I put my accelerator more than 1/8th down in the higher gears it begins to slip. Could this be caused by anything other than a worn clutch? It's getting serviced early next week. Ben at R-Tech tells me that the OEM Sachs clutch should be fine for the 300ftlb of the stage 1 remap. Anyone else using that? £349 fitted seems like a viable option but I'm not sure if that's including flywheel.
Cheers,
Mike
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Is it the clutch that is good to go upto 300lbs of torque o is it the clutch? I'm confused.
If it's just the clutch that would go from too much torque then that's better than doing the clutch and flywheel as that job is in the region of £800 inc labour OUCH
I think if I got it remapped in time to come then i'd definately ask them to ease off the torque to lengthen the life of the clutch, say 290lbs?
I tak it the BHP isn;t as much of an issue for the clutch/flywheel? Is that correct or does more BHP affect that also or do they need to marry up?
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I'm thinking about fitting this one:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-BORA-SHARAN-1.9-TDI-CLUTCH-KIT_W0QQitemZ220528628596QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxq20091219?IMSfp=TL091219204001r36496 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-BORA-SHARAN-1.9-TDI-CLUTCH-KIT_W0QQitemZ220528628596QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxq20091219?IMSfp=TL091219204001r36496)
with this slave cycl:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-MK4-CLUTCH-SLAVE-CYLINDER-1.8-1.9-TD_W0QQitemZ130335925309QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxq20091009?IMSfp=TL091009152001r31474 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-MK4-CLUTCH-SLAVE-CYLINDER-1.8-1.9-TD_W0QQitemZ130335925309QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxq20091009?IMSfp=TL091009152001r31474). I'm getting labour for 3 - 4 hours at £100.
I know the clutch is a cheap one but it comes with 2 years guarentee and I can't afford to upgrade it or remap at the moment so it will last for a year or two at least and then I can think about remaping and possibly upgrading the clutch. Can you tell me if you think the clutch should fit?