GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: Len on 11 June 2009, 20:03
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Well I replaced the vac pipe up from manifold to ECU and a secondary one from MAF vac up to god knows where! That seems to disappear behind the washer bottle then up into wing!
Any way I now have very bad "hunting" at idle in fact it wont idle any lower than 1200 revs!
So I tried swapping on the K&N again and changed over the throttle body! And combinations!
I think there was some threads about this before or similar traits but cant find em! :angry:
So where to look? I'm thinking it must be a sensor? But which one? MAF?
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only way to know for sure is vagcom. Is the throttle body nice and clean?
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Yep both are! One being more polished than the other!
Yes I need Vagcom!
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If its hunting around 1200rpm sounds like a vac leak.
When you say it goes god knows where, is it connected to something at both ends? If not block it off and try it.
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Yes I agree! But where? Cant see any other hoses and no spare places to connect one!
Checked with another 16v and have same hoses!
Now all hoses are new!
This one from the T piece of the MAF hose goes to another T then by white plastic pipe behind the washer bottle then in under the wing and I cant see where it goes!
Yes I took the battery and washer bottle out!
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Have you changed the one under your inlet manifold.? The maf is the one from the t.b. to the ecu. Have you a pic of the other one?
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Confused on this - you haven't got a MAF so what part are you referring to as the maf?
On my 16v throttle body I have a vacuum pipe going to the airbox for the cold start air diverter valve (if you've got a induction kit this will need to be blocked off. A second larger one going to the valve on the charcoal canister. From the manifold above the VW sign I have a vacuum pipe going to the ecu under the passenger side scuttle panel. And below the throttle body from the manifold I have a short vacuum pipe that goes to the fuel pressure damper on the fuel rail. A large vacuum pipe goes from the back of the manifold to the brake booster.
Not sure what vacuum pipe goes under the water bottle and battery, have you got cruise control?
Paul
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Confused on this - you haven't got a MAF so what part are you referring to as the maf?
On my 16v throttle body I have a vacuum pipe going to the airbox for the cold start air diverter valve (if you've got a induction kit this will need to be blocked off. A second larger one going to the valve on the charcoal canister. From the manifold above the VW sign I have a vacuum pipe going to the ecu under the passenger side scuttle panel. And below the throttle body from the manifold I have a short vacuum pipe that goes to the fuel pressure damper on the fuel rail. A large vacuum pipe goes from the back of the manifold to the brake booster.
Not sure what vacuum pipe goes under the water bottle and battery, have you got cruise control?
Paul
This is the map sensor hose, the equivalent to the maf on a 16v.
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Len, did you replace the throttle body gasket when you removed it?
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There is clearly only one solution to this problem.
A Golf3 with a fault is like a horse with a broken leg. There's only one option open to you.
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Why are you posting on this section?
You don't like mk3's :grin:
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I found a stick lying about and thought I'd just rag it about a bit.
Sometimes I think this section should be nicknamed 'general ignorance'
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Yes, people with wisdom buy Audi's :wink:
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There is clearly only one solution to this problem.
A Golf3 with a fault is like a horse with a broken leg. There's only one option open to you.
Plaster cast and crutches?
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Len, did you replace the throttle body gasket when you removed it?
Ummmm NO!
Why? Surely that could be a metal to metal and not be a problem?
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Confused on this - you haven't got a MAF so what part are you referring to as the maf?
On my 16v throttle body I have a vacuum pipe going to the airbox for the cold start air diverter valve (if you've got a induction kit this will need to be blocked off. A second larger one going to the valve on the charcoal canister. From the manifold above the VW sign I have a vacuum pipe going to the ecu under the passenger side scuttle panel. And below the throttle body from the manifold I have a short vacuum pipe that goes to the fuel pressure damper on the fuel rail. A large vacuum pipe goes from the back of the manifold to the brake booster.
Not sure what vacuum pipe goes under the water bottle and battery, have you got cruise control?
Paul
Ah! Right! What I was referring to as the MAF is what you are calling the charcoal canister I think!
Its on the suspension strut housing behind the air box.
I'm swapping between a drilled air box and a K&N kit atm! The air box has all the air diverter gear taken out anyway!
The one that goes under the water bottle, comes off the big plastic pipe off the right side rear of the manifold on a T piece.
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(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii211/Paul86S2/DSCF1759.jpg)
Black pipe with bolt in the end goes to the charcoal canister
Long blue pipe goes to the airbox, if you haven't got this make sure it is sealed off at the throttle body.
Blue pipe by first spark plug wire goes to the Fuel damper / regulator thingy
Blue pipe above the VW badge on the manifold goes to the ecu. Make sure this is connected at the ecu and not kinked or pinched in between.
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii211/Paul86S2/DSCF1760.jpg)
Small pipe here is for the ISV make sure it is connected at both ends. One end under the black plastic cover.
Did I read that you haven't put a gasket on the new throttle body, you really need one if you haven't.
I haven't got the vac pipe going under the battery and washer bottle so I don't know what that is for. Mine is a single pipe from the manifold to the brake servo / booster. No piece T'eed off. I will check again later though.
If all above is OK have you tried resetting the ecu. Battery disconnect for 5 to 15 minutes. Also I seem to recall reading about resetting the throttle position switch, after the ecu reset turn the ignition on but don't start the car, you should here some clicking as it sets itself. Don't know if that is rubbish but its free and worth a try if you have fitted a new throttle body.
Good luck
Paul
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Would having a vacuum leak also cause Lower Idle Revs and maybe cutting out?
for example.. clutch down, revs drop 500 then jump back up to around 800-850...
but sometimes it has stalled if more power was in use, fogs etc... is quite scary when turning round in a road and it stalls, and the steering just doesnt move :grin:
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Would having a vacuum leak also cause Lower Idle Revs and maybe cutting out?
for example.. clutch down, revs drop 500 then jump back up to around 800-850...
but sometimes it has stalled if more power was in use, fogs etc... is quite scary when turning round in a road and it stalls, and the steering just doesnt move :grin:
crank speed sensor.
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Sorted!
It was the new pipe up to the ECU!
I took it off at both ends and tried to blow through it! I could just!
So got some slightly lager diameter pipe and its fine again now!
But that hasnt solved emissions problem!
Sorry Khare bear you was wrong! :tongue:
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Thai - Wheres the crank speed sensor (Are they expensive)?
Pics would be great if at all poss
many thanks as usual
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Your lucky day.
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=101400.0
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Well u could say that, but if it is that crank speed sensor, then its not really my lucky day, especially as the job looks like a nightmare :)
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ohh and the oil light doesnt flash...... it only stalled once or twice as the revs went down, but idles abit low if u ask me... hope its not this crank sensor... i thought it might be a leaky vacuum hose.
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Crank sensor is a piece of piss if it is that. Just unbolt the front engine mount to get access whilst supporting the block on a trolley jack.
Check the cable that runs from it beneath the oil filter and cooler. These are really common for failing due to the engine heat making them weak and brittle
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is it expensive?
And as i've never really done anything to my previous cars, (which i really want to now, to save money, and experience is rewarding)
Anyway i'll sound really silly now... frong engine mount? what and where is that? :embarassed:
pics would be nice
:grin:
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Len, did you replace the throttle body gasket when you removed it?
Ummmm NO!
Why? Surely that could be a metal to metal and not be a problem?
Did you not put a gasket in at all then?
It may be metal to metal, but it may not be dead flat, so hence a gasket is needed to make it airtight.
I mentioned it as, although this isn't the problem, i once cleaned the throttle body on my dad's old Audi 90 Quattro 20v, i didn't change the gasket, and car started to idle irraticly, i changed the gasket for new and it was fine. The gaskets do tend to fall apart whenever the throttle body is removed.
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Yes I refitted the gasket! :rolleyes:
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Would having a vacuum leak also cause Lower Idle Revs and maybe cutting out?
for example.. clutch down, revs drop 500 then jump back up to around 800-850...
but sometimes it has stalled if more power was in use, fogs etc... is quite scary when turning round in a road and it stalls, and the steering just doesnt move :grin:
crank speed sensor.
If yours is the 2.0 8V I'd say those symptoms are more likely to be Hall Sender. Crank Speed Sensor doesn't generally allow the car to start and run if its dead.
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yeah mines the 2.0 8v gti... have u had this problem b4?
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mine was the crank sensor+ it started+ ran fine til it warmed up then would keep stalling. Also car will run without hall sender pluged in, just not optimally. 2l 8v btw
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well mine doesnt really stall much at all, in 8 months its happened twice. I drive it all the time aswell.... But the rev counter when i put clutch down does drop to about 500... then jump to 800...(and as it drops to 500 u can feel it wanting to die) (has twice) I just hope its just the throttle body needing a clean, or the spark plugs. Because if its a sensor, then I am ashuming it will be more severe?
regards.
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mine was the crank sensor+ it started+ ran fine til it warmed up then would keep stalling. Also car will run without hall sender pluged in, just not optimally. 2l 8v btw
Ditto. the crank speed sensor may well be breaking down and not fully shot as yet.