GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: 993turbo on 08 June 2009, 21:35
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My 90' G60 is losing power. The best way to describe it is like its the car is powered by a 30 hp engine. It does not rev up, and it cannot handle uphills.
Symptoms:
No misfire, No overheating, No strange sounds, No uneven running, it just lack the power / torque.....The car idles perfectly and starts perfectly.
What has been checked:
-The obvious vaccuum leak locations around the intake and hoses to from G-lader - intercooler - intake.
-The airfilter and fuel filter is new
-The spark plugs have been checked they look very good, not wet, not black, they are like a text book example. Rotor and dizzy cap looks good.
-Full opening on the throttle body is achieved when fully depressing the gas pedal.
Do you guys have any hints or tips on what to check next? Fuel Pump?
What else????
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Any oil in your inlet pipes / charger outlet / intercooler?
When you say checked boost hoses, how have you checked, may be worth sealing then and using an airline and soa to check for leaks.
is the power intermittent, a-la belt slip?
no blows from the exhaust / manifold?
checked the timing? its pretty much identical to doing it on a normal digi2 8v.
checked the vacuum line on the back of the inlet manifold to the FPR and the vac hose to the ECU?
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Sounds like fuelling problems.
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Any oil in your inlet pipes / charger outlet / intercooler?
When you say checked boost hoses, how have you checked, may be worth sealing then and using an airline and soa to check for leaks.
is the power intermittent, a-la belt slip?
no blows from the exhaust / manifold?
checked the timing? its pretty much identical to doing it on a normal digi2 8v.
checked the vacuum line on the back of the inlet manifold to the FPR and the vac hose to the ECU?
No oil in the inlet pipes...
The power loss is constantant, like if it was a 30hp engine.
What do you mean by BLOWS from exhaust / mainfold?
I have not checked the timing
All vacuum lines checked......... also up to the FPR / ECU.....
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Sounds like fuelling problems.
yeah, it smells a bit like a fuel pump issue to me, cause the engine runs so fine at idle etc....
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There's a vacuum line which has to be precisely a certain length to the ECU. Have you replaced this at any point? I know this can cause odd behaviour if it's not the right length.
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There's a vacuum line which has to be precisely a certain length to the ECU. Have you replaced this at any point? I know this can cause odd behaviour if it's not the right length.
This line must be 100cm. Not changed. The car was running fine, and now suddenly its not.
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is it makeing the boost it should ?
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is it makeing the boost it should ?
Dont know. I have no boost meter in the car........
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I can also add that the loosing power thing is a lot worse when the car is cold. Then is has hardly no power at all. Sounds like a fuel issue to me, or.....................?
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I would get your fuel pressure checked.
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I would get your fuel pressure checked.
Im thinking the same............
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is it makeing the boost it should ?
Dont know. I have no boost meter in the car........
Yes you do :wink:
Start engine
Move the MFA switch to 2
Press and hold the MFA button
Stop engine
Start engine
Release the MFA button
Press the MFA button again
although that possibly only works on raddos & rallyes, cant remember.
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is it makeing the boost it should ?
Dont know. I have no boost meter in the car........
Yes you do :wink:
Start engine
Move the MFA switch to 2
Press and hold the MFA button
Stop engine
Start engine
Release the MFA button
Press the MFA button again
although that possibly only works on raddos & rallyes, cant remember.
Ohhhhh, Nice, I will check this as SOON as I have the car up and running. Nice feature. I remember is was something like this on my Audi RS2 which I had ages ago.... Hidden menu feature.
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yeah, you should get max readings at the redline in 3rd & 4th.
it reads in some funny units though that measure up to psi readings, google should be able to help, or have a look on dubforce.
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Disconnect your lambda probe, then go for a drive. If it runs better, then the fun starts. These are the exact same problems I have, only I need to find the solution. But I think now I know where to look, thanks to DP and DH.
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yeah, you should get max readings at the redline in 3rd & 4th.
it reads in some funny units though that measure up to psi readings, google should be able to help, or have a look on dubforce.
I suppose it reads in bars, huh? Probably absolute pressure, which means that when it shows 1,6 you must deduct 1 bar for the atmospheric pressure. Then you are left with 0,6bars which IIRC the max pressure on the G60 golf. 0,6 bars is 8,7 psi. There is 14,5psi in 1 bar.
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Disconnect your lambda probe, then go for a drive. If it runs better, then the fun starts. These are the exact same problems I have, only I need to find the solution. But I think now I know where to look, thanks to DP and DH.
Talk to me... What are we looking at here? Just HOW weak is your car?
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DarnPB, now your over here, why dont you get to these guys http://www.g-werks.com/Contact/1/Default.aspx one day, as they'll give you the best info on where the problems may be. Have a health check service, rather than a full service or something. It might point 993turbo in the right direction too, once you find where the problems are.
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Disconnect your lambda probe, then go for a drive. If it runs better, then the fun starts. These are the exact same problems I have, only I need to find the solution. But I think now I know where to look, thanks to DP and DH.
Talk to me... What are we looking at here? Just HOW weak is your car?
My car has never been right ever since I got it. I saw that the lambda probe was disconnected and thought that may be the problem with my rich mixture and lack of power. When I say lack of power, I mean 60bhp at the most. That was after I had the charger rebuilt. Anyway, I connected the probe and set the emissions up. They were at CO was up to 13. :shocked: So I knocked it back down to just over 2. I drove the car, but it had absolutely no power, it was misfiring, kangarooing and stalling. So I disconnected the lambda and had instant power, much more than I had before, but not full power. Probably only 150 or so. So I bought a new probe and installed it and that made no difference. Still kicking and bucking. After talking to a few people on here, I found that there is a relay for the lambda, so I bought a new one a couple of weeks ago. I changed it, but still no difference. So I am now down to chasing wires.
The previous owners boyfriend called himself a mechanic. I call him a tw@t because I am completely vexed as to why he should have tweaked the CO to heavenly figures. The car now still runs very rich, but this is because of the lambda problem. It is permanantly disconnected which puts the ECU into 'safe' mode, and pours fuel into the injection system.
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DarnPB, now your over here, why dont you get to these guys http://www.g-werks.com/Contact/1/Default.aspx one day, as they'll give you the best info on where the problems may be. Have a health check service, rather than a full service or something. It might point 993turbo in the right direction too, once you find where the problems are.
That is my plan one day when I get the time. Work is very hectic at the moment and I have to juggle my time between here and Spain, as my family are still out there.
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Ok, got the new Fuel Pump. Installed the pump, but no change to the problem :-(
:cry:
So, the following is new, or has been checked:
-Fuel Pump (New)
-Fuel Filter (New)
-Air Filter (New)
-Vacuum Hoses Checked and changed
-Boost Hoses Checked ok
The car idles perfectly, but does not rev up properly and has no power.
I did an Compression test just to get an idea of the combustion chamber status. All 4 cylinders perfectly lined up around the 150psi mark. In my book this is good. I did not bother to perform a leakdown test as the numbers were so even.
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I will check the timing belt, if it has ''jumped'' a tooth, however unlikely due to the smooth idle.
Does anyone have a good description / pics of the marks on the crank - cam?
Further, I will do a check on the iginition timing.... This seems like a hard job with the intercooler etc in place.....
Any other hints and tips...?
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http://the-corrado.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67859
have a read through that for the belt timing, and guides for ig. timing below :afro:
http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/pgigntiming.pdf
http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/pgidleco.pdf
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Cheers for the timing info... Great Stuff!
Any other ideas on the loosing power issue?
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Do you get the same readings as this guy? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bswDjsmP_w
.6 bar (atleast) on the G-Lader.
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Have you disconnected the lambda yet and gone for a drive? The lambda connector is on the passenger side down by the exhaust manifold. Just pull that off and tuck the loom away, then go for a spin.
My next job is to clean the injectors in an ultrasound bath. I've tried everything else. :sad:
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http://the-corrado.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67859
have a read through that for the belt timing, and guides for ig. timing below :afro:
http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/pgigntiming.pdf
http://vwtech.no-ip.info/downloads/pgidleco.pdf
I have checked the Timing Belt acc to the info in the links above. All settings line up: Cam wheel - Crank - Dizzy.........
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Do you get the same readings as this guy? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bswDjsmP_w
.6 bar (atleast) on the G-Lader.
I get 0.6 bar at around 2500rpm, and this rises to about 0.8 at 3500rpm... So this seems fine!
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Have you disconnected the lambda yet and gone for a drive? The lambda connector is on the passenger side down by the exhaust manifold. Just pull that off and tuck the loom away, then go for a spin.
My next job is to clean the injectors in an ultrasound bath. I've tried everything else. :sad:
Yeah, tried to disconnect and drive the ECU into ''safe'' mode but no change..... :cry: :cry:
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Shake your exhaust and see if the cat is rattling. If it is, it could be partially blocking the gas exit. I had this once with a Passat. Nearly died because of it too! :shocked:
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Are there any relays in the fuse box that might need changing? My abf engine wouldn't rev properly. It turned out to be a faulty relay?
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Are there any relays in the fuse box that might need changing? My abf engine wouldn't rev properly. It turned out to be a faulty relay?
yeah probably relay 30, ECU relay.
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Are there any relays in the fuse box that might need changing? My abf engine wouldn't rev properly. It turned out to be a faulty relay?
yeah probably relay 30, ECU relay.
That would cause the car to not even start. The relay to the top left is the lambda probe relay. Pull that out and try giving it a sniff. If it's burn't, its knackered. That may cause you some grief.
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Are there any relays in the fuse box that might need changing? My abf engine wouldn't rev properly. It turned out to be a faulty relay?
yeah probably relay 30, ECU relay.
That would cause the car to not even start. The relay to the top left is the lambda probe relay. Pull that out and try giving it a sniff. If it's burn't, its knackered. That may cause you some grief.
The car may still start but it can run like poo and cut out etc.
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just reading through my G60 seems to run ok ish, but i dont run a lamba sensor, never have so i would guess that wouldnt be your problem. its not the CO sensor in the intake pipe is it? should get around 400 ohms across pins 2-3 i cant remember the excat figures, but dubforce will. a blocked exhaust would give lack of power ect, tried disconnecting it as far up as possible?
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Ok, good... New things to check!
- I will check the Relays for the Lambda Sensor and the ECU...
- Check of the Exhaust system..
- Will do a check of the CO Sensor in the intake pipe. Can someone confirm 400ohms across pin 2-3???? I guess we are talking about pin 2-3 on the ecu plug, or....?
:cry:
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Further, whilst I am in there:
Can someone give me the specs of the coil, as well as the HT leads. What ohm readins should I get.....?
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Shake your exhaust and see if the cat is rattling. If it is, it could be partially blocking the gas exit. I had this once with a Passat. Nearly died because of it too! :shocked:
My T4 did that.
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Blue temp sensor changed for a vag one yet?
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Blue temp sensor changed for a vag one yet?
Hmm... not sure... How do I see if its a ''VAG one''... meaning what was it originally..?
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Does anyone have an ''overview'' of all the relay locations?? (I dont have the ''owners manual'' :embarassed: )
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Does anyone have an ''overview'' of all the relay locations?? (I dont have the ''owners manual'' :embarassed: )
try here http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=44637.0 :smiley:
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Cheers...
Checked the ECU relay, relay 30 in position 3 in the fusebox. It works fine. I opened it up and watched the operation.
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Shake your exhaust and see if the cat is rattling. If it is, it could be partially blocking the gas exit. I had this once with a Passat. Nearly died because of it too! :shocked:
I disconnected the exhaust before the CAT. No difference, except the NOISE :grin:
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its definatly between 350-450ohms mate. check straight off the sensor, obvious it must be disconnected. if its out there is a blue plastic cap/cover on the side of it. remove this and there is a flat screw head inside, turn the screw to change the reading. easy peasy
o btw its definatly pins 1 and 3 you measure across
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its definatly between 350-450ohms mate. check straight off the sensor, obvious it must be disconnected. if its out there is a blue plastic cap/cover on the side of it. remove this and there is a flat screw head inside, turn the screw to change the reading. easy peasy
o btw its definatly pins 1 and 3 you measure across
Between 350 and 500 ohms I believe is what you are looking for. Mine is adjusted well out of wack, approaching 800ohms, just to make the b@stard driveable. :undecided:
There are a row of relays at the top of the relay board that look as if they are 'add ons'. The one on the end to the left is the lambda probe relay. I know this because I changed mine last week.
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its definatly between 350-450ohms mate. check straight off the sensor, obvious it must be disconnected. if its out there is a blue plastic cap/cover on the side of it. remove this and there is a flat screw head inside, turn the screw to change the reading. easy peasy
o btw its definatly pins 1 and 3 you measure across
I have meassured the sensor over pin 1-3. Its 450ohm. The ohm changes evenly when I turn the screw. I tried a few different settings on the screw, from 250 - 1000, but there are no changes to the poor running.
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There are a row of relays at the top of the relay board that look as if they are 'add ons'. The one on the end to the left is the lambda probe relay. I know this because I changed mine last week.
How do I check the function of this relay?
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Blue temp sensor changed for a vag one yet?
Been checking on the the Temp sensor. One thing is for sure, when I unplug the sensor, the engine nearly stops....
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It will do I just know the blue temp sensor is a common 8v complaint for sh!t running for the few quid they cost from VW it's worth a punt :)
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Blue temp sensor changed for a vag one yet?
Been checking on the the Temp sensor. One thing is for sure, when I unplug the sensor, the engine nearly stops....
Any way to check the Temp Sensor..........?
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Yes the blue temp sensor unpluged will make the car feel like its about to stall if there is no changed in idle the blue temp is at fault!
Are you sure the car is not running on safety mode everything checks out except no power when the car goes into safe mode the ECU is reading two sensor faults or the ECU is at fault!
I haven't read the whole thread, but if idle is fine and its just got no power its usually the ECU or dizzy hall sender messing with timing of the spark and fuel.
What colour is your plugs lean or rich?
Ok just reading some posts on your thread, if disconecting the Lambda made no difference the Lambda is your number one dud sensor is should have driven worse unconnected! which explains two sensors have gone down and the the ECU is in safe mode. You need to cure that first, then restart all other possible faults again!
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The color of the plugs indicate rich........
You mention the ''dizzy hall sender'', what are we looking at here and how can I check it?
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the sensor only costs £13 from the dealer, its not really worth messing about if you suspect it might be a problem.
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The color of the plugs indicate rich........
You mention the ''dizzy hall sender'', what are we looking at here and how can I check it?
Yes rich is safe mapp for the ECU so it doesn't lean out and melt a piston!
But like Rub Johnny said for £13 change out the blue temp sensor, but you will notice a drop in revs right away if working correctly when unplugged from idle! IF NO CHANGE in idle GET A NEW ONE!
Hall sender is the body of the ignition system the phat bit that connects to a crank shaft and the distributor rotor & cap. The Hall sender signals for correct spark timing as your main crank moves in time with the cams and valves so your have a efficient combustion.
Second hand hall senders are about £50-£80 depends where you get one might get one on Egay for £25-£35.
No real way of testing hall senders unless you know the frequency of the signal and compare a regular oscillations and a broken one?
Do cheap things first as why its in safe mode:
Lambda: check unplug report back
Blue temp: Which would f**k your idle up at warm, but sounds like you have decent idle from previous posts
ECU/Hall sender/coil/ Plugs and HT leads/rotor & Dizzy cap cost from expensive to cheap.
So come back and report what are the symptoms on the above?
Jay
P.S check all earths for corrosion from ECU and extra Ground cable to gear box it doesn't hurt to re-ground the earths could have cause part failure in the first place!
Essential that all boost pipes have no leaks others wise no point so that 1meter pipe to the ECU must be bang on!
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Thanks, good info... :smiley:
Will check and write up a summary.
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the sensor only costs £13 from the dealer, its not really worth messing about if you suspect it might be a problem.
Changed, no difference.
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Ok, here is the summary of what has been done so far. My 90' G60 is losing power. The best way to describe it is like its the car is powered by a 30 hp engine. It does not rev up (max 3500 rpms or so), and it cannot handle uphills at all.
Symptoms:
No misfire, No overheating, No strange sounds, No uneven running, it just lack the power / torque.....The car idles perfectly and starts perfectly.
What has been checked:
-The obvious vaccuum leak locations around the intake and hoses to from G-lader - intercooler - intake.
-Airfilter is new
-Fuel Filter is new
-Fuel Pump is new
-Hose between Intake - ECU is new and exact 1m and correct dia.
-Blue Temp sender is new
-Coil is good
-The spark plugs have been checked they look very good, not wet, but seems like it runs a bit rich. Rotor and dizzy cap looks good.
-Full opening on the throttle body is achieved when fully depressing the gas pedal.
-ECU relay is working fine (relay 30)
-Tried disconnecting the Lambda sensor but no difference
-Checked virtually all connectors in the whole engine bay and sprayed with El spray.....
-Boost pressure is fine
-No oil in intake or hoses
Not checked:
-HT leads
-Dizzy hall sender
-ECU??????
-Lambda sensor
-Lamda Relay
-Earth points
:sick:
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This is the hall sender unit with the jack plug. Its too much effort to strip a distributor down just to change this part, so its best to buy it with the drive shaft not in this picture, but Google an image I'm sure you will understand.
My money is the Hall sender mate, but I think you need to get out of safe mode to determine what’s happening?
1) First thing I would do is borrow an ECU and iron out anything the ECU is doing wrong.
2) if its still doing the same no power your ECU is proberly fine.
3) Change the Hall sender distributor and re test if there is anything different.
4) If power is back and still stinks of fuel afterwards or still running rich bad MPG change the Lambda because the Lambda is only active at part throttle and idle not WOT.
5) Check your WOT switches its on the throttle body two of them, one for idle and one for WOT. You can check them by pulling the throttle cable back and forth and you can see metal arms hitting the micro switches. Push them by hand and listen for the click sounds.
6) When the car is running just run your hand along the HT leads if you feel no pain they should be ok :wink: but before I even attempt the above I would have just unplugged each spark plug and arc it against the rocker cover to check the spark its academic because you have ruled out any misfire and bad idle!
7) Two major earth points one is the ECU to the block on the right check for green oxidisation and furring clean them up they spike sensors and ECU's can cause issues. The on there one is the major ground to your battery just hook another one to the gear box Bolt you can just buy a braided one and bolt it anywhere there is large metal frame/chassis areas.
That should keep you busy fella just PM me or ask Rubjonny he is a good lad and can help with specifics as I'm not always around the forum these days! :smiley:
Jay
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/Rallye%20Parts4Sale/Pic3.jpg)
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I have a question about the ECU compability...
My car is equipped with a ECU bosch number 0 261 200 346 / vw number 037 906 022 CP this ECU is from a 90 Golf mk2 G60.
I can buy a ECU at a good price, but its from a 90 Corrado G60, Bosch 0 261 200 346 / 037 906 022 DP
Can I use this ECU in my car ??? or...........................................
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Dp is the better one for the G60 its just so much richer in fuel delivery!
Stock Rallyes and G60's have the purple/pink coloured bosch badge, whist the late Corrados had the white ones with DP!
I finally used a later one purely becuase they seem more meater than the stock ones in purple/pink label!
Jay
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So, this sounds good. I take it I can use this ECU in my car without any issues then??????
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Well I didn't think your ECU was the issue, but ironing it out to buy instead of borrowing one..... is the hard route to follow.
But no its actually a better ECU a kept secret just for us EX Rallye owners LOL!
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Oki.
Well, I live in the south of Spain, and down here these cars dont grow on trees.... :-) Wish I could borrow one, but I dont know anyone who might have one................................ And I want to get to the bottom of this issue, as the car is undriveable, and my GF is now using (read: abusing) my X5..........
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Here is a pict of my current ECU:
(http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/162/23062009080.jpg)
And of the ECU I can get my hands on:
(http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/2284/buw0zqwkkgrhgookjyejllm.jpg)
All ok I guess.... ?
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Ohhh, and tell me:
Distributor. Which distributors are compatible with my car???? GTI 8v? GTI 16v? Only G60's?? or.........
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Let us know how you get on with that Rado ECU. I also have a Rado ECU as a spare but it is exactly the same as my Golf one. I'll have to keep an eye out for the later Rado one then.
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White one last pic its the best one IMO! :cool:
Far enough mate I know what its like to drive a tank and then get into a G60!
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Let us know how you get on with that Rado ECU. I also have a Rado ECU as a spare but it is exactly the same as my Golf one. I'll have to keep an eye out for the later Rado one then.
Yeah, will do. Not sure if its the issue, but I will have to do some ''shot-gun'' diagnostics...
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White one last pic its the best one IMO! :cool:
Far enough mate I know what its like to drive a tank and then get into a G60!
:-)
Cool, I will try to get hold of the ECU then...
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Ohhh, and tell me:
Distributor. Which distributors are compatible with my car???? GTI 8v? GTI 16v? Only G60's?? or.........
Any info on this, anyone???
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I have bought the DP ECU now, and will install it when it arrives.......................
Im going to get a distributor as well... and a lamda sonde, and a ''lamda relay''........
Shot-gun, diagnostics!!!! Big time!
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Ohhh, and tell me:
Distributor. Which distributors are compatible with my car???? GTI 8v? GTI 16v? Only G60's?? or.........
Any info on this, anyone???
Any 8V distributor will work, but stick to the part numbers you know on the dizzy body the number on mine is the following: 16V will not its side mounted and wont fit!
037 905 205G this might be superseeded at VAG another part number 0237 520 026
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Thanks again clipperjay. I will get a dizzy from a G60, just to be sure....
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Just a quick question: Does my car have a ignition control module in addition to the ECU. If so, where is it, and how do I test it... ? Is this a common source of fault?
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NO you don't!
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NO you don't!
Thanks :-) One less thing to think about :-)
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Can anyone point me in the right direction to the location of the ground points to be checked...?
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has to be a digifant 8v one tho, basically if it doesnt have a vacuum unit on the side then it will probably work. excsept MK3 2.0 ones, as they're too big to fit. 1.8 MK3 one might work too, I think the block is the same...
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Phhheeeeew!
Its been a busy week! Sold my MK1 cabrio sportsline.... :-(
And, I fixed the G60. It came down to being the crank bolt and pulley. The pulley moved slightly on the crank under load, hence threw off the timing by many degrees... A new pulley, and OLD TYPE crank bolt was fitted. Timed up and adjusted, and all was fine! It runs as sweet as ever, and it pulls stronger than it used to!
So, for all of you running the ''8.8'' strength crank bolt, get it changed before it causes you hazzle as well!
Ohhh, the G60 is going up for sale now.... Too many cars...
:-)
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Phhheeeeew!
Its been a busy week! Sold my MK1 cabrio sportsline.... :-(
And, I fixed the G60. It came down to being the crank bolt and pulley. The pulley moved slightly on the crank under load, hence threw off the timing by many degrees... A new pulley, and OLD TYPE crank bolt was fitted. Timed up and adjusted, and all was fine! It runs as sweet as ever, and it pulls stronger than it used to!
So, for all of you running the ''8.8'' strength crank bolt, get it changed before it causes you hazzle as well!
Ohhh, the G60 is going up for sale now.... Too many cars...
:-)
Anyone know the part number of this replacement bolt as I need to try this. STILL got my problem! :angry:
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nope but just ask vw parts counter for one, the old one has been replaced on etka with the one you want
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wicked mate been reading these threads on here and dubforce glad youve got it sorted. im now really paranoid about my crank. is it just a case of a new pulley and bolt? and P/N's?
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isn't it something random like a bottom pulley bolt from a dx engine'd mk1 golf?
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I think somebody also mentioned the key and keyway that the pulley mounts on? :huh: Can anyone shed some light on this? :undecided:
I'm getting rather twitchy about the old shed now. Mind you, the insurance runs out this weekend, so it's coming off the road. :wink:
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isn't it something random like a bottom pulley bolt from a dx engine'd mk1 golf?
that sounds very familiar, as i think that bolt is non stretch, problem being the G60 ones are stretch bolts i believe. mine comes off the road in november, sounds like something to tinker with over the winter.
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People did used to use a non stretch bolt from another model, however the g60 bolt from the dealer has now been replaced with a non Stretch bolt anyway. If you want to be double sure,call darren at g-werks.
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Just ordered a new bolt, pulley and woodruff key. Hope they arrive before the weekend. :smiley:
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Just ordered a new bolt, pulley and woodruff key. Hope they arrive before the weekend. :smiley:
Hope it sorts it for you. I think you've lasted longer than i would have done if the car were mine :wink:
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Just a little update!
After adjusting the car 100% it has been running like a GEM. No Digilag, it pulls strong etc...etc.. Feels really good. My GF is really happy!
:smiley:
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Just ordered a new bolt, pulley and woodruff key. Hope they arrive before the weekend. :smiley:
Darn PB, did u manage to have a look at it? Maybe you have the same type of crank / pulley like mine. Which means no woodruff key......
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here is some info on the pulley etc..
http://www.dubforce.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=18283
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I <3 Dubforce. Good info there.
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Hows the compression?? Also check to see if the timing belt has jumped a tooth or 2 If it's blowing fuel smoke out the pipes, check the mixtures.... this sounds rich to me.. When the gas peadal gets pushed down does a lot of smoke (dark smoke) Also I'd look at the ecu, if those go bad they can cause such problems along with o2 sensor, are any wires burned or grounding out. Or maybe a patato got stuck far into the pipes..... or maybe a dead animal or snakes....?? hope some of this helps good luck. keep us posted.. cheers
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Hows the compression?? Also check to see if the timing belt has jumped a tooth or 2 If it's blowing fuel smoke out the pipes, check the mixtures.... this sounds rich to me.. When the gas peadal gets pushed down does a lot of smoke (dark smoke) Also I'd look at the ecu, if those go bad they can cause such problems along with o2 sensor, are any wires burned or grounding out. Or maybe a patato got stuck far into the pipes..... or maybe a dead animal or snakes....?? hope some of this helps good luck. keep us posted.. cheers
Might be worth reading the latest post or 2 :wink: