GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: bmouthboyo on 02 June 2009, 20:44
-
Hi again :(
The snapped manifold bolt is just not moving so its a head out job unfortunately.
I am following the Haynes manual and have done this before on a BMW a good while back but wanted to ask a few questions before i remove the timing belt from the cam sprocket.
The Haynes manual doesn't mention setting the engine to TDC for head removal but i assume its good practice to ensure it doesn't rotate once the belt is removed. I will mark everything up with tipex anyway so that no belt teeth will be out when i refit the cam belt to the cam sprocket.
First of i cannot find out in the manual how to get the engine to TDC exactly? I have found the timing arrow on the lower belt cover but which of the marks on the crank pulley is it ment to line up with?
(http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w182/bossman187uk/DSC04167.jpg)
I lined it up with the first of the marks and I have found the timing mark on the camshaft but it doesn't correspond with anything??
(http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w182/bossman187uk/DSC04175.jpg)
With the crank in the position as in the pic (first mark on the arrow) the valve and camshaft look like this:
Cylinder 1
(http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w182/bossman187uk/DSC04170.jpg)
Cylinder 2
(http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w182/bossman187uk/DSC04171.jpg)
So from the valve position it looks like the second piston is at TDC as both valves are fully up, but I do not know much about this kind of thing.
Any advice would be a great help, I have removed and labeled all the wires etc and injectors, and really need to get this head out but dont want to proceed until I am sure I wont mess the timing up.
Thanks so much for any help.
-
Hi
Use the marks on the flywheel and the good old method of long handle screw driver in piston 1 thru the plug hole.
-
Look at the tuning guide in the maintenance section for reference. On the camshaft pulley, look for a notch on the inside, it should match up with the top of the front of the head at TDC :smiley:
-
Sorry steve I looked under maintenance but can only find full timing tuning for digifant.
Do you have a link?
-
the static marks are the same as in the guide, just ignore the co and ign timing bits, you set both of these at idle on a k-jet :)
-
the pully in the first pic i think you have to take off if it's the alternator belt pully, the timing mark's behind that pully (I THINK,) (someone will correct me if i'm wrong). line it up with the arrow and there should be a inspection hole in the top of the gear box and like mattkh said, you should see the marks on the fly wheel
Hi
Use the marks on the flywheel and the good old method of long handle screw driver in piston 1 thru the plug hole.
also the screwdriver in spark plug hole 1 is a good way to make sure it's at tdc
-
if your removing the head then just set it when the head is off, you will see when no1 is at tdc.
i also find that when i have done engine work in the past i have moved the crank anyway to clean the tops of the pistons up and also to check cylinder bores for damage/scoring
-
But if i move anything with the head off all the timing will be out wont it?
If i mark it all up and put it back in the same position I shouldnt have to mess about with timing etc will i?
-
just get it to tdc turning the crank bolt untill you see the tdc flywheel mark, mark the belt up with tippex and remove. the mark on the cover isnt the most accurate
-
Ok sweet, can i ask whats the best way to stop the immediate shaft turning when the belt looses tension after slipping it off the cam crank?
Is there a wasy way to sexure it all so i know the teeth wont move on the lower pullies?
-
I might be talking complete rubbish here, and it may well be irrelevant, but just worth noting that it looks like you have a solid lifter head there, rather than the later hydraulic lifters.
As said, that may well be wrong and irrelevant, but just thought i'd point it out :smiley:
-
top and bottom pulley wont move unless you put a ratchet on them, but the intermediate will. just be careful not to touch it or tippex a tooth and the block to make sure. you will have the mark on the belt as well when you put the new one on
can i suggest you do the seals behind the puleys at the same time? they are never gonna be easier to get to than during this job!
-
take the dizzy cap off and note where the rotor arm is, make sure it stays in that spot. ideally get a timing light to set ign timing spot on once its all back together.