GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: WYATT on 14 April 2009, 22:10
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Alrite i sort of rushed my axle swap over and didnt make detail of what pipes go where from the rear compensator on my 16v axle , if anyone could help with either diagrams or information on where they go it would be great !
Cheers Joe
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(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/blessani/bias.jpg)
You should have 4 hoses, 2 in, 2 out.
One reaches just to a bracket just before the rear beam, then hooks to a flexi onto the rear beam, then a short run to under the rear calliper, then a flexi to the calliper.
The other reaches across the rear beam to a flexi, then a run over the beam under the rear calliper, then a flexi to the calliper.
There's a few pics/info on my dub thread here http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=49436.msg979860#msg979860
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hi, my golf doesnt have one of these compensaters, do i need to fit one or is it ok to run without?
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depends what kind of golf it is!
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it began its life as a mk2 1300, since then i have put in a 1.9 td
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If you have rear callipers, then yes, otherwise no.
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its actually down to servo size and which rear wheel cylinders you have, 1.8 carbed models also had the compensator.
basically if you havent upgraded any of the brakes then you wont need it
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the bloke at gsf didnt ask for engine size just gave me standard 1990 shoes, pads, cylinders and disks, the servo however is original 1300, also my rear n/s locks up before any of the others if i jump on the brakes, could that be just down to bleeding?
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Lol - needs a rear bias.
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As the servo amplifies the braking effect over the WHOLE system it makes no odds what size servo you have fitted with regards to the balance of the braking system.
The key here is the effectiveness of the rear brakes. The same rear drums and shoes have been fitted across the range, whether specified with a compensator or not. The difference that will have an effect on the drums is whether the slave cylinder is correct. A larger item is fitted to compensator-equipped cars. It is likely that Jules has inadvertantly replaced the non-compensator item with the larger rear wheel cylinder, designed for the compensator equipped system. This is probably why the rears are locking. As it is larger it would also be making the system feel like the brakes haven't been bled - there will be more pedal travel due to the extra fluid displaced to the rears.
Jules, what brakes are you running on the front (239mm, 256mm or 280mm?) and what do you have on the back (discs or drums?)? Do you have the part number on the GSF invoice, for the rear wheel cylinders? Is the master cylinder still a 1.3 item, too?
Bear in mind that the auto-compensator isn't the only way of doing it - you can fit a manual bias valve as an alternative. If you don't have an auto-compensator fitted at the moment then you're going to have to make up a bundle of brake pipes and if your fronts are crusty it's an excuse to remake them to ensure good braking and no MOT fails on brakes for a few years.
WYATT - lines from the front go in the bottom of the compensator, lines to the back brakes go in the top ports.
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the front are 239mm,the rear are shoes and master cylinder is origanal 1300. if i get the specific non brake regulator rear cylinders is that going to be ok as i really dont want to chop my spanking new brake lines unless i have to
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also may be worth checking both sides are the same wheel cylinder, gsf have managed to supply me with 2 completly different ones in the past
as long as they're non-bias valve equipped wheel cylinders what you have is just fine
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With the correct-spec slave cylinders you should be fine - that's how the braking system was designed out of the box and you haven't changed the spec on it.
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thanks for all the info, im sure it wont be long before im back needing more