GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Deefadog on 25 July 2004, 13:08
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Hi Guyz, hope someone can help me out on these teo problems:
1) When i take my foot off the accelerator coming down a hill and keep the car in gear (any gear) the car juders back and forth instead of holding steady in the gear. I have had all the engine mounts checked and the front one replaced.
2) The injector metal tubes go into the engine (sorry don't know what they are called) there is alot of movement, I can wiggle them on at leats two, Should they be like this and if not what can I do to sort them.
Cheers
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1. Could be fuel or ignition related, i think you changed your HT leads already? probably more likely to be fuel related.
2. Could be linked to question 1, maybe worth changing the seals on the injector inserts, as they sound like they are worn.
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Mine used to do this when i was going up a hill or having the car under loas, fat mates in the car, I got it checked out and the HT leads and spakies were chamnged and prob was solved!
Just check em before you take it to a garage :)
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yes HT leads and plugs have been changed, made a huge difference byt still the kangaroo effect.
How easy is it to change the seals, I guess they can be picked up from VAG or GSF?
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the injectors shouldnt be able to wiggle
the injectors just simply pull out,
get the o-rings from VAG (dont use any others), think its 2 per injector, then just smear a touch of vasoline on them and push them back in
whether this cures your kangarooing i very much doubt
if you want to test your injectors - with the engine running spray carb cleaner in round each injector - if its not a tight seal then the engine note will change
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So they just pull out out of the engine, will any fuel leak anyware? I just want to cover all bases before i do this.
The worst injector is the far left one, I think this is becsaue when you pull the breather form the air box you hit it!
The kangarooing is not that bad, just annoying!
"To test the injectors when the engine is running"
Do you mean to pull each one out as the engine is running and spray carb clean on them and then reinsert them?
thanks, this sort of maintenance kind of scares me a little :)
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dont pull them out with the engine running otherwise fuel will spray everywhere
the injectors will be fully closed 12secs after the engine is turned off, you can then pull them out and change the O-rings, no fuel will leak out, except maybe a drip or two
no need to pull the injectors out when testing with carb cleaner. just spray in around the injector bases with the engine idling. the idea is that if they are not a snug fit then the carb cleaner will seep down past the O-rings
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If these are KJet injectors, like mine, then they do wobble a little bit. Worth changing the seals every few years though, as they get squashed and mishapen + leak. With the 8v ones (not sure about 16v) the green ones tend to last better.
If it is KJET, there's probably an extra o-ring around the end and you might want to replace this aswell.
You might well have some trouble getting the injectors out if they are kjet ones - there's a special removal tool but I used a screwdriver + 13mm spanner under the union to prize them out. Careful the little bucket bit doesn't fall off the end - it's a nightmare to retrieve when it's sitting on top of your intake valve! >:(
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Thanks for the info!
This is a bad pic (sorry) of on of the injectors
(http://www.realitydesigns.co.uk/forum images/injector.jpg)
Is this a KJET? (sorry for the dumb question)
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yes your car is a kjet
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Thanks mate
Learning slowely :)
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Just to bring this back to life :)
The Kangaroing problem i am having is when i just tap the accelerator slightly when cruising down a hill, leav it for a bit and it's ok.
Any ideas what this could be, really doing my head in especially when coming down a hill and changing from third to second quickly bouncing like mad feel sick :)
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make sure the throttle switch is closing when your off the accelerator
its a small micro switch on the throttle body where the cable connects to
you can hear it click when opening & closing when operatin the throttle by hand. engine dont need to be running either!
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Thanks mate, I'll check it out
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Ok, found the microswitch at the front and it does not click when the metal touchs it, if i push it with my fingure it does click! So the switch is worn? Where can I get one of these, GSF? and what does it do?
Could I put some tape arond the metal bit and raise it slightly with a very small nut where it touches the switch?
Cheers
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is the throttle able to fully close then? try adjusting (loosening) the cable adjuster on the top of the throttle cable to see if that helps it
the switch itself aint really expensive to replace
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Yes I think the throttle is fully closing as it stops, then the front part that hits the switch continues and stops against the thread, also if I pull the cable towards me there is no further movement!
I just rolled a small amount of foil into a ball and attached it to the front metal thing that touchs the switch with some tape, i lossed the cable slightly and it seems to be switching now! I know this will not last five minutes but it will tell me if this is the problem!
btw how far does the tiny switch stick out? as i said mine oes not extrud the plastic, huess it should really to work!
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Just alittle update on this, if I get the kangarooing and I put my foot unde the accelerator and push it up it stops, huess it just making sure the micro switch is being pressed!
Should I get a new accelerator cable aswell?
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id only change the accelerator cable if your current one is stiff/sticky - again they aint expensive and very easy to change.
check the prices for that microswitch, might be more expensive than i thought! getting a 2nd hand one might be an idea.
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Thanks mate, is there an a pic of the micro switch available I could see, just to see if it does stick out more than mine?
Also how do you tell if the cable is sticky or not as I have no other one too compare against, i have stuck my head out of the door and pressed the accelerator and it is very responsive in time with the foot movement?
cheers
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if the accelerator cable has a smooth movment from fully open to full closed then i wouldnt bother changing it.
dont have a pic of the microswitch sorry
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Thanks mate!
I'll get on to this ASAP when my car comes back from the garage (fnally getting those valve stem seals replaced) :)
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Can you not just bend the metal tab that presses the switch down out a bit?
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Can't bend it as if you put anything flat against it it does not contact :) I may put some rubber glue on to the switch itself which should extend it out a bit! just getting some decent stuff that will last will be the prob :)
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Switch is 'switching' all the time now thanks to my mod ;) but it don't seem to stop the kangarooing, I'll test the resistance on them as another forum member reccomended just to see if it is doing it's job.
If the switch is fine, what else could be causing the kangarooing, really annoying now :(
Like I said before it's like the car is about to cut out as if it's running out of petrol when my foot is off the accelerator, maybe some fuel filter problem?
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ignition and static engine timing?
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ignition and static engine timing?
Can you eleborate a little more on these please, how to test them.
Thanks
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I want to have a good go at fixing this this weekend, could you please give me some more info on - ignition and static engine timing
Thanks
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bump
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Ok, I just came back from the tuning place, the timing was well off and CO was low, all sorted.
...so I thought
The kangarooing is still there...
....and know my old problem has come back, in any gear (mainly first and second) when the revs are between idle and 2000rpm the car stuters like hell, then as soon as the it get's over 2000 the car take off like it should!
I guess the over timing was hiding this problem :(
I am really at the end of my teather now! What else could cause both these symptoms?
Really feel like selling it now or just scraping it!
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Thanks to another user on another forum, who had the same problem as me, told me what was wrong, as soon as I discontected the electrical connection to the overrun cuttoff valve, the two problems disapeared :)
I now have two questions:
1 - what does the overrun cuttoff valve do, what can I do to make it good? clean it or replace it?
2 - What damage (if any will it cause to my car when it is disconected, can I keep driving it with it disconected?
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I have exactly the same prob with my car, did you get an answer to your questions, also where abouts is the overrun cutoff valve?
Cheers,
Jim
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an old thread but with some good information, can anyone advise where this "Over run cut of valve" is or have a pic of it?
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1st BUMP
2nd What engine are we talking about here? Im guessing a 16v.
I too would like to know more about this over run valve.
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its the wee gizmo sits behind the airbox and under the intake. with pipes going into the airbox and the intake
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Ahh the round thing with a plug on the end!