GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk5 => Topic started by: rskardon on 06 April 2009, 12:06
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Got the big 4 year service and cambelt change today, fingers crossed that goes alright, i asked them to look at a couple of additional bits too:
The rear badge is starting to get a bit of the whiteworm at the bottom - has anyone had these replaced on extended warranty? the guy didnt think trim was covered?
Also been getting some water in the rear LED - though of course sods law there was none in it today - the guy reckined they'll have to pour water around it to check it, I'm pretty sure that wont work but what can you do eh? (I tried getting it with the hose last night to no avail)
i have to say the 1.4 or 1.6 (not sure) golf i have as my courtesy car truly makes me appreciate the GTI, its sooooo slow its ridiculous, the good thing being I only have ot pay 15p per mile for the fuel (pretty sure i'm not getting that kind of economy).
They reckon the service could take a couple of days which seems slightly excessive but i guess it depends on the rear light as that will be off to the body shop.
Anyway enough random rambling,
R
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With regards to the rear brake light mine doesn't seem to have any water in it but half the LED's are shot. Quoted £400 to have it replaced (inc new spoiler and spraying) from a VW bodyshop.
The car is out of warranty and I currently have a case with VW UK for goodwill payment as I think £400 / new spoiler is a farce for changing a jumped up light bulb. All the guys at the dealer agreed that it was a terrible design and would support my claim for goodwill. Will keep you updated...
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They should get that work done in a day! Dependant on whats wrong with the light..
blah, some dealers.lol :rolleyes: lol
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May sound dramatic, but simply break the old LED light, the pull out the parts. Slot new light straight in. Bingo!! job done.
How much was the bill for the service and how much was the cambelt change on its own?
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Hi there,
Could be a plan as they have just said its not covered under the 'All Parts Warranty', supposidly no water leak is, which is ridiculous, anyway the cost for:-
Oil/Filter Change
Spark Plugs
Pollen Filter
Brake Fluid
Air Filter - All above £355ish
Cambelt - £470ish
MOT - £55ish
Total quote £884.16 Including 20% Discount (for being over 3 years old), Also they just rang and having the rear Brake pads done for around £100 so gonna dent the bank balance fairly badly!
R
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Your labour must be a bit.. I just did a quote for a 4th longlife service, cambelt&tensioner on a 2004 plate gti and it was £660..
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Probably getting F**ked as per usual, its in at Drift Bridge in Surrey, they do a reasonable job, i'd probably use the local independant but i need to use main dealers whilst its on Finance still,
Oh well :undecided:
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Probably getting F**ked as per usual, its in at Drift Bridge in Surrey, they do a reasonable job, i'd probably use the local independant but i need to use main dealers whilst its on Finance still,
Oh well :undecided:
Really? I doubt it...maybe serviced in line with the OEM schedule but if you are able to have it serviced outwith the dealer network and keep the warranty on a new car I don't see why you HAVE to use the dealers for the finance either?
With regards to the high level brake light I though of surgery involving a dremel to get the old one out but I'm not convinced you could refit a new one that easily. For one thing I don't know if the wires plug into the light unit or if they are teminated internally. They are screwed in from INSIDE the spoiler apparantly :sick:
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My mistake... :embarassed: Scanning through VW ElsaWin, for the GTI, the roof spolier needs to to be cut off before being able to access the brake light.
Have pdfs if anyone is interested.
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Just picked the GTi up, bill was just a little less than i expected with £949 the final result :undecided:
Everything seems ok, i was hoping the spark plug and cambelt change might 100% cure a minor lumpy idle i noticed but doesnt seem to have 100% stopped it, still its so slight i'll probably survive.
The mechanic couldnt find anything wrong with the clutch so i guess that is good news :smiley: and in my courtesy car it did feel the same which is re-asuring as it was an 08 plate (1.4 Beast!)
My only slight concern is that i asked them to make it time and distance and accordingly they used non long life 'Synta Gold' oil, for some reason i had it in my head that they used long life on all services now, any experineces of this oil?
In line with this when i check the service interval by holding down the mile reset and turning the ignition it strangely still says service now but the service team did take it back round to the garage and have them re-check and they assure me it is set to T&D, with today at 0 days 0miles,
I guess that's less important now its on a time and distance as i'm sure i can work out 1 year/10k miles without too much trouble.
Anyway all sorted, the bank balance took a pasting but should be the biggest service for quite a while,
Thanks for previous posts,
R
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With regards to the rear brake light mine doesn't seem to have any water in it but half the LED's are shot. Quoted £400 to have it replaced (inc new spoiler and spraying) from a VW bodyshop.
Bit late now, but check the angle of your rear squirter - I'm gobsmacked to still see Mk5 Golfs with the rear squirter aiming at the 12'o'clock position - ie straight up, directly at the high level brake light. The official ElsaWin workshop manual clearly states the squirter should be aimed at the 2o'clock position - at an angle which clears the brake light.
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Probably getting F**ked as per usual, its in at Drift Bridge in Surrey, they do a reasonable job, i'd probably use the local independant but i need to use main dealers whilst its on Finance still,
Oh well :undecided:
Really? I doubt it...maybe serviced in line with the OEM schedule but if you are able to have it serviced outwith the dealer network and keep the warranty on a new car I don't see why you HAVE to use the dealers for the finance either?
This specific case has nothing to do with the warranty. If the car is on finance, and the finance company states that it must only be serviced at a VW garage, then you have to bite the bullet. Because the car is on finance, it is the finance company who are the legal owner of the car, and they can makey any (reasonable) demands they see fit. But if you owned the car outright (ie without any finance), then you, the owner can choose where to get it serviced.
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My mistake... :embarassed: Scanning through VW ElsaWin, for the GTI, the roof spolier needs to to be cut off before being able to access the brake light.
Have pdfs if anyone is interested.
Yup, and they are also available as free downloads in my sticky thread in the maintenance section - handily titled "Free Golf V workshop manuals" :tongue: :wink:
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Just picked the GTi up, bill was just a little less than i expected with £949 the final result :undecided:
Yikes - still a lot of money to me! Those prices are in Audi RS territory!
Everything seems ok, i was hoping the spark plug and cambelt change might 100% cure a minor lumpy idle i noticed but doesnt seem to have 100% stopped it, still its so slight i'll probably survive.
What fuel do you use? And did they replace the air filter and fuel filters?
My only slight concern is that i asked them to make it time and distance and accordingly they used non long life 'Synta Gold' oil, for some reason i had it in my head that they used long life on all services now, any experineces of this oil?
Yikes again - and serious YIKES. Your stealer have completely FAILED to comply with Volkswagen UK and Volkswagen AG. They both clearly state that from the start of 2009, ALL modern VAG cars, even when on T&D servicing - MUST still use the LongLife 3 oils. I suggest you make a formal complaint, and get them to change the oil and filter again (at their cost) and fill it with the correct LL3 oil.
For the record, Synta Gold is an OBSOLETE oil, and is NOT specifed (therefore not developed) for FSI engines.
In line with this when i check the service interval by holding down the mile reset and turning the ignition it strangely still says service now but the service team did take it back round to the garage and have them re-check and they assure me it is set to T&D, with today at 0 days 0miles,
That is still wrong. If it had been correctly coded for T&D, it should immediately display (when doing a 'manual' call up of the Service Interval Display) of 365 days, and 9,700 miles - and these readings are instantaneous. It is only the LongLife regime which gets a series of dashes in the SID immediately after a service - simply down to the fact that the SID computer needs to re-calculate all the revised parameters.
Look in the maintenance + info child section of this forum, and find the thread (by "The Doc") on how to manually reset your SID.
I guess that's less important now its on a time and distance as i'm sure i can work out 1 year/10k miles without too much trouble.
Agreed, but it would actually be nice if the thick mechs at the stealers could actually do their jobs correctly - afterall, it isn't as though you didn't have the job done on the cheap! :rolleyes:
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Thanks TT, comprehensive as usual,
Fuel wise i use 99 Tesco or Shell V-power depending on which i am near, i did have the air filter replaced but not the fuel filter, should it be replaced by default as part of the service?
With regards to the Oil used do you know where i could find the new protocol laid out, i can imagine if i go to them saying that the oil should always be longlife without some kind of proof they will no doubt fob me off. would you compalin to the dealer or VW UK? Fecking annoying to have to make the effort!
I'll look for the thread on SID, can I set it to T&D or does it only work for longlife?
Cheers,
R
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Hmm, tried the Docs SID reset, doesnt seem to work, still says service now afterwards :angry:
Seems my sid is screwed!
R
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Thanks TT, comprehensive as usual,
You're welcome. :afro:
Fuel wise i use 99 Tesco or Shell V-power depending on which i am near, i did have the air filter replaced but not the fuel filter, should it be replaced by default as part of the service?
The fuel filter does not have any specified replacement interval - so they didn't "miss" anything from the service schedule by not replacing it. But wise advice is to get a petrol fuel filter replaced every 40k miles - or every 80k miles at an absolute max.
With regards to the Oil used do you know where i could find the new protocol laid out, i can imagine if i go to them saying that the oil should always be longlife without some kind of proof they will no doubt fob me off. would you compalin to the dealer or VW UK? Fecking annoying to have to make the effort!
There is some official guidelines, I got mine, quite a few months ago, from https://erWin.Volkswagen.com - it is the official site for VWAG factory info (identical to what the stealer uses), but is for the independent motor trade, and sadly, you have to pay for access, and the docs are in 'SealedMedia' meaning you can't save them.
Regarding the Synta Gold, it is only rated at VW 502.00 - which is an old skool petrol engine rating, and 502.00 does not include any FSI specific tests, nor any "High Temperature, High Sheer" (HTHS) tests, which all petrol turbo cars (irrespective of FSI or not) really do need.
Finally, ALL Quantum oils are NOT authorised for 'workshop use' - Quantum oils are only supposed to be 'sold over the counter' for independents or home users. All VAG franchised workshops must only use either Volkswagen genuine oils, or oils agreed from an official contract supplier, such as Castrol, Shell, Fuchs, etc.
I'll look for the thread on SID, can I set it to T&D or does it only work for longlife?
If you manually reset your SID according to that thread, then it will ONLY work to T&D regimes. The only way the SID can be set to LongLife is by hooking up either vag-com or the stealers own VAS computers.
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Hmmm, well it might be worth me at least sending the dealer an email/letter to have a moan, i might try ringing VW HQ too, though i have a suspicion the dealer will respond that it is standard practice on T&D,
I'm quite surprised they are using non approved oils as they generally seem to be quite good in most repsects. is the Sytha not actually a VW approved oil then? i could use that as an argument.
Worst case, in 10k/ 1 year do you think it poses a risk? She's always had longlife before, i guess i could by some longlife and either change it myself or have a cheaper specialst change it if it is likely to cause damge, there's 48k on the clock,
cheers,
R
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With regards to the rear brake light mine doesn't seem to have any water in it but half the LED's are shot. Quoted £400 to have it replaced (inc new spoiler and spraying) from a VW bodyshop.
Bit late now, but check the angle of your rear squirter - I'm gobsmacked to still see Mk5 Golfs with the rear squirter aiming at the 12'o'clock position - ie straight up, directly at the high level brake light. The official ElsaWin workshop manual clearly states the squirter should be aimed at the 2o'clock position - at an angle which clears the brake light.
In my case I don't actualy think there is any water in there. I'm a bit annoyed as I specifically checked for any signs of water / condensation before the warranty ran out so if there was a problem it would be sorted FOC.
The squuirter does aim straight up but the jet of water hits the screen roughly half way 3/4 of the way up so I don't see how this would fill the light anyway. Unless they are making the lens out of some porus material :undecided:
Clearly there is an issue but I think its more likely that for those who have water in them its getting in from the top - probably the point where the cable or screws enters the fitting.
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Probably getting F**ked as per usual, its in at Drift Bridge in Surrey, they do a reasonable job, i'd probably use the local independant but i need to use main dealers whilst its on Finance still,
Oh well :undecided:
Really? I doubt it...maybe serviced in line with the OEM schedule but if you are able to have it serviced outwith the dealer network and keep the warranty on a new car I don't see why you HAVE to use the dealers for the finance either?
This specific case has nothing to do with the warranty. If the car is on finance, and the finance company states that it must only be serviced at a VW garage, then you have to bite the bullet. Because the car is on finance, it is the finance company who are the legal owner of the car, and they can makey any (reasonable) demands they see fit. But if you owned the car outright (ie without any finance), then you, the owner can choose where to get it serviced.
I did read the bit where he said it was a finance issue. My point was that if its illegal for car manufacturers to demand that their cars are serviced only by their dealers for the warranty to remain valid then the same competition laws apply to the manufacturers finance companies. In any case I have finance through VW and although their is a requirement to service the car to the manufacturers schedule / standards it doesn't specify that it has to be VW :smiley:
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Just sent a note to the garage via email to ask for the longlife oil change to be completed, be interesting to see the response,
Cheers for the advice,
R
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Mine is going in for its 4th year service in a couple of weeks when i have a 2 weeks off.
I'm time and distance and been quoted for
Castrol LL oil
Filter
spark plugs
pollen filter
Air filter (I've asked for this additionally)
brake fluid change
MOT
£280 all in.
I've not gone with cambelt yet, the 3 dealers and 1 specialist I asked for quotes for said (when i asked, not mentioned otherwise) 6 years or 60,000 miles is their recommendation.
I didn't realise until i looked through the service book that the air filter had never been replaced and shouldn't be until 6 years :angry:
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With regards to the rear brake light mine doesn't seem to have any water in it but half the LED's are shot. Quoted £400 to have it replaced (inc new spoiler and spraying) from a VW bodyshop.
Bit late now, but check the angle of your rear squirter - I'm gobsmacked to still see Mk5 Golfs with the rear squirter aiming at the 12'o'clock position - ie straight up, directly at the high level brake light. The official ElsaWin workshop manual clearly states the squirter should be aimed at the 2o'clock position - at an angle which clears the brake light.
In my case I don't actualy think there is any water in there. I'm a bit annoyed as I specifically checked for any signs of water / condensation before the warranty ran out so if there was a problem it would be sorted FOC.
The squuirter does aim straight up but the jet of water hits the screen roughly half way 3/4 of the way up so I don't see how this would fill the light anyway. Unless they are making the lens out of some porus material :undecided:
Even though the squirter aims about halfway down, it will still drench the 3rd brake light - as it actually squirts with some force. Just think when you have a slash in bogs with the old style wall-to-floor p!ss-wall urinal - even when you carefully aim halfway up, you always manage to get splashback on your flip flops! :embarassed: :sick:
Clearly there is an issue but I think its more likely that for those who have water in them its getting in from the top - probably the point where the cable or screws enters the fitting.
Don't really agree. Like most things (including headlamps), the 3rd brake light was designed to have rain falling on it from above, and not being jet-blasted from below. So if your squirter is aiming at 12 o'clock and not 2 o'clock, then I would strongly suggest that it hasn't been set according to VWAG official technical manuals - so if your warranty has expired, VWUK should be looking at goodwill to cover the cost.
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Hmmm, well it might be worth me at least sending the dealer an email/letter to have a moan, i might try ringing VW HQ too, though i have a suspicion the dealer will respond that it is standard practice on T&D,
Take it further. Like I said, Quantum oils are NOT approved for VW (and Audi, Seat and Å koda) official franchised workshops.
And pre-2009, the 'standard practice' was to use a 502.00 oil, but that oil MUST be either a 'genuine' Volkswagen Original Teile® branded oil, or an official 'top-line' oil from Castrol/Fuchs/Shell. Look at this post to see the difference between genuine VW oil and aftermarket Quantum oil - http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=95565 - so for the pre-2009 T&D, they should have used oil begining with "G 052 167 **".
I'm quite surprised they are using non approved oils as they generally seem to be quite good in most repsects. is the Sytha not actually a VW approved oil then? i could use that as an argument.
Quantum oils generally are very good oils, and they are actually made by Castrol for Volkswagen UK. But nip across to Germany, and I doubt you could buy Quantum - because it isn't listed in ETKA. The part numbers are a dead-giveaway - Quantum oils have the prefix "ZGB" - and Z simply means "non-standard or non-OEM" part, and you can work out what GB means! :tongue:
Regarding Quantum 'approvals' - well the bottle may say they meet certain VW standards, but they aint approved by VW Germany. To prove my point, log onto this site - https://erWin.Volkswagen.com - you will then need to set up a free account, and then download the approved oils PDFs - you will NOT find any Quantum oils on there.
Actually, you WILL find a Quantum oil on there (shocked, as I thought none had been approved) - but for the 502.00 standard (the min. spec for the GTI on T&D) - then ONLY the Quantum PD Diesel is approved. Synta Gold is definately NOT approved - so your stealer has fcuked up on two issues!
Worst case, in 10k/ 1 year do you think it poses a risk? She's always had longlife before, i guess i could by some longlife and either change it myself or have a cheaper specialst change it if it is likely to cause damge, there's 48k on the clock,
The Synta Gold wants dumping out the sump ASAP - how you do this is up to you - but I would be adamantly demanding the stealer does it, and picks up the tab. OK, the stealer may want you to pay the difference between the cost of 4.6 litres of Synta Gold against the same of genuine LongLife3 (which will be about a tenner) - but they can't shaft you with labour charges, as they fcuked up!
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Probably getting F**ked as per usual, its in at Drift Bridge in Surrey, they do a reasonable job, i'd probably use the local independant but i need to use main dealers whilst its on Finance still,
Oh well :undecided:
Really? I doubt it...maybe serviced in line with the OEM schedule but if you are able to have it serviced outwith the dealer network and keep the warranty on a new car I don't see why you HAVE to use the dealers for the finance either?
This specific case has nothing to do with the warranty. If the car is on finance, and the finance company states that it must only be serviced at a VW garage, then you have to bite the bullet. Because the car is on finance, it is the finance company who are the legal owner of the car, and they can makey any (reasonable) demands they see fit. But if you owned the car outright (ie without any finance), then you, the owner can choose where to get it serviced.
I did read the bit where he said it was a finance issue. My point was that if its illegal for car manufacturers to demand that their cars are serviced only by their dealers for the warranty to remain valid then the same competition laws apply to the manufacturers finance companies. In any case I have finance through VW and although their is a requirement to service the car to the manufacturers schedule / standards it doesn't specify that it has to be VW :smiley:
But you missed the cruical point.
I full agree with the warranty issue - but that generally applies to a private motorist, who would own the car outright. But if the car is on finance, the driver isn't the legal owner, and MUST comply with the instructions provided by the finance company. And if the finance company demand that the car is ONLY serviced at a genuine dub stealer - then tough - like it or lump it. You would have had seven days to read over the small print - and if you didn't like, or couldn't agree to ALL the terms of the finance contract - then you should have handed the car back and cancelled the contract (as per your legal right). A contract is completely separate to a warranty.
Just head over to Seat Cupra net and search for the chap who modded the fcuk out of his LCR - when the car broke down, it got towed to a dub stealer - and because the car was owned by Volkswagen UK Financial Services, they went ballistic. He had to pay to put the car back to standard, the finance was immediately cancelled, and he had to hand back the car too.
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With regards to the rear brake light mine doesn't seem to have any water in it but half the LED's are shot. Quoted £400 to have it replaced (inc new spoiler and spraying) from a VW bodyshop.
Bit late now, but check the angle of your rear squirter - I'm gobsmacked to still see Mk5 Golfs with the rear squirter aiming at the 12'o'clock position - ie straight up, directly at the high level brake light. The official ElsaWin workshop manual clearly states the squirter should be aimed at the 2o'clock position - at an angle which clears the brake light.
In my case I don't actualy think there is any water in there. I'm a bit annoyed as I specifically checked for any signs of water / condensation before the warranty ran out so if there was a problem it would be sorted FOC.
The squuirter does aim straight up but the jet of water hits the screen roughly half way 3/4 of the way up so I don't see how this would fill the light anyway. Unless they are making the lens out of some porus material :undecided:
Even though the squirter aims about halfway down, it will still drench the 3rd brake light - as it actually squirts with some force. Just think when you have a slash in bogs with the old style wall-to-floor p!ss-wall urinal - even when you carefully aim halfway up, you always manage to get splashback on your flip flops! :embarassed: :sick:
Clearly there is an issue but I think its more likely that for those who have water in them its getting in from the top - probably the point where the cable or screws enters the fitting.
Don't really agree. Like most things (including headlamps), the 3rd brake light was designed to have rain falling on it from above, and not being jet-blasted from below. So if your squirter is aiming at 12 o'clock and not 2 o'clock, then I would strongly suggest that it hasn't been set according to VWAG official technical manuals - so if your warranty has expired, VWUK should be looking at goodwill to cover the cost.
Maybe so. In any case I don't think water is my particular problem. It seems to be bone dry with no signs of condensation. I hear what you're saying about the squirter and will re adjust it.
Good news on the goodwill claim, VW have agreed to pay half the costs. Didn't have that much hope of getting anything so not a bad result :smiley:
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Probably getting F**ked as per usual, its in at Drift Bridge in Surrey, they do a reasonable job, i'd probably use the local independant but i need to use main dealers whilst its on Finance still,
Oh well :undecided:
Really? I doubt it...maybe serviced in line with the OEM schedule but if you are able to have it serviced outwith the dealer network and keep the warranty on a new car I don't see why you HAVE to use the dealers for the finance either?
This specific case has nothing to do with the warranty. If the car is on finance, and the finance company states that it must only be serviced at a VW garage, then you have to bite the bullet. Because the car is on finance, it is the finance company who are the legal owner of the car, and they can makey any (reasonable) demands they see fit. But if you owned the car outright (ie without any finance), then you, the owner can choose where to get it serviced.
I did read the bit where he said it was a finance issue. My point was that if its illegal for car manufacturers to demand that their cars are serviced only by their dealers for the warranty to remain valid then the same competition laws apply to the manufacturers finance companies. In any case I have finance through VW and although their is a requirement to service the car to the manufacturers schedule / standards it doesn't specify that it has to be VW :smiley:
But you missed the cruical point.
I full agree with the warranty issue - but that generally applies to a private motorist, who would own the car outright. But if the car is on finance, the driver isn't the legal owner, and MUST comply with the instructions provided by the finance company. And if the finance company demand that the car is ONLY serviced at a genuine dub stealer - then tough - like it or lump it. You would have had seven days to read over the small print - and if you didn't like, or couldn't agree to ALL the terms of the finance contract - then you should have handed the car back and cancelled the contract (as per your legal right). A contract is completely separate to a warranty.
Just head over to Seat Cupra net and search for the chap who modded the fcuk out of his LCR - when the car broke down, it got towed to a dub stealer - and because the car was owned by Volkswagen UK Financial Services, they went ballistic. He had to pay to put the car back to standard, the finance was immediately cancelled, and he had to hand back the car too.
Why must we argue so TT :sad:
I think you missed my crucial point about anti competition law. They simply cannot insist that a VW dealer does the work. That would be illegal. Just because its in a contract (and I don't think it is) doesn't make it legal anyway.
You also missed the bit where I said I have VW finance and this is not a condition of it. Regular maintenance yes, but not necesserily at a stealers.
The case of the LCR was different. The finance does state that you have a duty to maintain the car to the manufacturers specification and service schedule and not to take any action that will result in reducing the cars future value or saleability. This is what the LCR tube failed to realise and was busted on.
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With regards to the rear brake light mine doesn't seem to have any water in it but half the LED's are shot. Quoted £400 to have it replaced (inc new spoiler and spraying) from a VW bodyshop.
Bit late now, but check the angle of your rear squirter - I'm gobsmacked to still see Mk5 Golfs with the rear squirter aiming at the 12'o'clock position - ie straight up, directly at the high level brake light. The official ElsaWin workshop manual clearly states the squirter should be aimed at the 2o'clock position - at an angle which clears the brake light.
In my case I don't actualy think there is any water in there. I'm a bit annoyed as I specifically checked for any signs of water / condensation before the warranty ran out so if there was a problem it would be sorted FOC.
The squuirter does aim straight up but the jet of water hits the screen roughly half way 3/4 of the way up so I don't see how this would fill the light anyway. Unless they are making the lens out of some porus material :undecided:
Even though the squirter aims about halfway down, it will still drench the 3rd brake light - as it actually squirts with some force. Just think when you have a slash in bogs with the old style wall-to-floor p!ss-wall urinal - even when you carefully aim halfway up, you always manage to get splashback on your flip flops! :embarassed: :sick:
Clearly there is an issue but I think its more likely that for those who have water in them its getting in from the top - probably the point where the cable or screws enters the fitting.
Don't really agree. Like most things (including headlamps), the 3rd brake light was designed to have rain falling on it from above, and not being jet-blasted from below. So if your squirter is aiming at 12 o'clock and not 2 o'clock, then I would strongly suggest that it hasn't been set according to VWAG official technical manuals - so if your warranty has expired, VWUK should be looking at goodwill to cover the cost.
Maybe so. In any case I don't think water is my particular problem. It seems to be bone dry with no signs of condensation. I hear what you're saying about the squirter and will re adjust it.
The best way to readjust it is to remove the large plastic cap which covers the wiper spindle and squirter. You should then see, looking end-on that the squirter body is D shaped. The whole of that D can be rotated on its shaft (you may need a pair of pliers), rather than adjusting the ikkle eyeball jet.
Good news on the goodwill claim, VW have agreed to pay half the costs. Didn't have that much hope of getting anything so not a bad result :smiley:
See, they do have a heart! Good news indeed. So does yours have a genuine VW service history?
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Yes.
I even buy my screen wash from them - which I was sure to point out. :wink:
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Finally, ALL Quantum oils are NOT authorised for 'workshop use' - Quantum oils are only supposed to be 'sold over the counter' for independents or home users. All VAG franchised workshops must only use either Volkswagen genuine oils, or oils agreed from an official contract supplier, such as Castrol, Shell, Fuchs, etc.
Take it further. Like I said, Quantum oils are NOT approved for VW (and Audi, Seat and Å koda) official franchised workshops.
Quantum oils generally are very good oils, and they are actually made by Castrol for Volkswagen UK. But nip across to Germany, and I doubt you could buy Quantum - because it isn't listed in ETKA. The part numbers are a dead-giveaway - Quantum oils have the prefix "ZGB" - and Z simply means "non-standard or non-OEM" part, and you can work out what GB means! :tongue:
Oi! Damn local dealer gave me the Quantum stuff when I asked for a 1l bottle. Thought they'd have given me Castrol SLX like the dealers where I bought the car from. At least the local dealer used Castrol for the service (at least that's what it says on the invoice).
Why did they give me Quantum?
Why not Castrol like my usual dealer?
If Castrol make Quantum, what's wrong with it? Why doesn't it meet the spec?
Should I go back, return it and demand ask for Castrol?
Is the Quantum safe for use as top-up or should I stay away from it completely?
I wonder whether I told them the car had been changed from LL to TD had any effect.
There's a local VAG parts place that seems to flog Quantum - again, why?
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I've bought oil from two (different franchise) dealers and both told me I needed Synta Gold :sad:
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Well i spoke to the dealer service manager at Drift Bridge today who credit to him actually did call me on the back of my email i sent to them. We had a discussion about the oil and he did agree that they were notified to use longlife but only in cars purchased 2008 onwards, i asked if the engine was different now and he said there had been some changes but i wasnt too convinced.
Anyway to cut a long story short he agreed to change the oil to longlife on Tuesday next week so happy days! and even better it is at no cost (thank god as i already spent 950 on it)
I'm happy with that result, one last question though, is it essential i get the oil filter changed or will that be fine given it will have had the sh!te oil in it less than a week?
Cheers for the advice on this TT, seems i got a reasonalbe outcome in the end,
R
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So i checked my rear sprayer today and it does indeed squirt straight at the lamp, how do you adjust it, do you just use some grips and move it that way or is there a proper method?
Cheers,
R
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Probably getting F**ked as per usual, its in at Drift Bridge in Surrey, they do a reasonable job, i'd probably use the local independant but i need to use main dealers whilst its on Finance still,
Oh well :undecided:
Really? I doubt it...maybe serviced in line with the OEM schedule but if you are able to have it serviced outwith the dealer network and keep the warranty on a new car I don't see why you HAVE to use the dealers for the finance either?
This specific case has nothing to do with the warranty. If the car is on finance, and the finance company states that it must only be serviced at a VW garage, then you have to bite the bullet. Because the car is on finance, it is the finance company who are the legal owner of the car, and they can makey any (reasonable) demands they see fit. But if you owned the car outright (ie without any finance), then you, the owner can choose where to get it serviced.
I did read the bit where he said it was a finance issue. My point was that if its illegal for car manufacturers to demand that their cars are serviced only by their dealers for the warranty to remain valid then the same competition laws apply to the manufacturers finance companies. In any case I have finance through VW and although their is a requirement to service the car to the manufacturers schedule / standards it doesn't specify that it has to be VW :smiley:
But you missed the cruical point.
I full agree with the warranty issue - but that generally applies to a private motorist, who would own the car outright. But if the car is on finance, the driver isn't the legal owner, and MUST comply with the instructions provided by the finance company. And if the finance company demand that the car is ONLY serviced at a genuine dub stealer - then tough - like it or lump it. You would have had seven days to read over the small print - and if you didn't like, or couldn't agree to ALL the terms of the finance contract - then you should have handed the car back and cancelled the contract (as per your legal right). A contract is completely separate to a warranty.
Just head over to Seat Cupra net and search for the chap who modded the fcuk out of his LCR - when the car broke down, it got towed to a dub stealer - and because the car was owned by Volkswagen UK Financial Services, they went ballistic. He had to pay to put the car back to standard, the finance was immediately cancelled, and he had to hand back the car too.
Why must we argue so TT :sad:
I didn't think we were 'arguing' - arn't we just having a 'constructive discussion'? :wink: Just because we seem to have slightly different POV, that really shouldn't mean we are arguing! :smiley: :smiley:
I think you missed my crucial point about anti competition law. They simply cannot insist that a VW dealer does the work. That would be illegal. Just because its in a contract (and I don't think it is) doesn't make it legal anyway.
I fully understand the anti-competition laws - which is exactly why they removed the 'block exemption' the motor manufacturers used to enjoy re. servicing and warranties. But when buying a car on finance, then anti-competition laws don't come into the issue - because there are more than one company, including VW FS and many, many others, which will provide finance to purchase a VW Golf. If you don't like the terms implied in one specific finance contract, then look for other finance contracts which don't have that particular clause. Just like peeps do with car insurance!
And finally, if you are really adamant that a specific clause in a contract is unfair, then you have a number of options, including taking formal legal advice. But the absolute 'best option' would be to send the full contract, highlighting your specific gripes to: "The Unfair Contracts Terms Unit" at the Office of Fair Trading in Whitehall - and yes, they do exist. But if the UCTU at the OfT were to receive one of these kinds of complaints, I am absolutely adamant that they would allow a car finance company (who, lets not forget, are the legal owners of the car) to demand that the car is serviced at a genuine franchised dealership rather than an independent. Afterall, the finance company have a 'morale' right to 'protect' the maximum possible value of their assets - and that could perfectly reasonably mean a genuine main dealer FSH.
You also missed the bit where I said I have VW finance and this is not a condition of it. Regular maintenance yes, but not necesserily at a stealers.
Sorry, I didn't mean to talk of individual specific instances, including your own. And I only used the "VW finance" purely as an example - so it seems that some wires have gotten crossed somewhere in this lengthy argument discussion! :wink: :smiley:
The case of the LCR was different. The finance does state that you have a duty to maintain the car to the manufacturers specification and service schedule and not to take any action that will result in reducing the cars future value or saleability. This is what the LCR tube failed to realise and was busted on.
Nope, he admitted the contract basically stated the car could not be altered from the manufactures original spec - ie 'modified' - and that was why VWFS threw their teddy out of the cot!
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Finally, ALL Quantum oils are NOT authorised for 'workshop use' - Quantum oils are only supposed to be 'sold over the counter' for independents or home users. All VAG franchised workshops must only use either Volkswagen genuine oils, or oils agreed from an official contract supplier, such as Castrol, Shell, Fuchs, etc.
Take it further. Like I said, Quantum oils are NOT approved for VW (and Audi, Seat and Å koda) official franchised workshops.
Quantum oils generally are very good oils, and they are actually made by Castrol for Volkswagen UK. But nip across to Germany, and I doubt you could buy Quantum - because it isn't listed in ETKA. The part numbers are a dead-giveaway - Quantum oils have the prefix "ZGB" - and Z simply means "non-standard or non-OEM" part, and you can work out what GB means! :tongue:
Oi! Damn local dealer gave me the Quantum stuff when I asked for a 1l bottle. Thought they'd have given me Castrol SLX like the dealers where I bought the car from. At least the local dealer used Castrol for the service (at least that's what it says on the invoice).
Why did they give me Quantum?
They probably gave you Quantum because it is much cheaper. Unless you specifically asked for a litre of "Castrol LongLife 3", or a litre of "genine VW LongLife 3", then they can give you ANY LongLife 3 oil.
"GVW 052 195 M2" is the 1 lit genuine VW oil (in 'Volkswagen' logod pack - GAU and the rest for the Audi logo on the bottle) - this retails at £14.37 (plus the extra the One-Eyed Jock needs to support his cronies expenses for watching porn!), and trade is £7.90 +vat
"ZGB 00V 500 001" is the part no for 1 litre of genuine Castrol SLX Professional Powerflow LongLife 3, retail £10.46 +vat (though that is an old price)
and
"ZGB 115 QLB 005 00" is the 1lit pack of Quantum LongLife 3 - don't know the retail price (perhaps you can let us know), but the trade is £5.11+vat.
Sooooooo - you can see how they vary in price - they probably just wanted to give you the cheapest one.
Why not Castrol like my usual dealer?
If Castrol make Quantum, what's wrong with it? Why doesn't it meet the spec?
Ok, OK, OKKKKKK. What do you know about car engine oils? Especially their approvals?
Right, you may have heard of either the American "API" ratings (such as SL/CF), or the much better European "ACEA" performance and quality classifications (such as A3, B4). With both the API and ACEA - an oil company can submit their oil 'brew' to absolutely ANY indpendent oil testing facility, and providing it passes the relevent tests, it will be awarded the relevent API or ACEA (or both) rating. Some of the larger oil companies, particularly the Yankie ones, actually test the oils 'in-house' (read into that what you will, but it is just one of the many reasons why I never trust, nor recommend Yankie originated oils). But because there are a number of 'competing' test houses, then naturally, price for these tests remains competative.
Now, onto 'manufacturer-specifc' tests, such as the VW oil standards (BMW, Mercedes-Benz, PSA {Peugeot sh!troen}, Ford of Europe, and General Motors Europe also have their own oil standards). But with the VW oil standards (I'm not 100% sure on the other OEMs - so I ain't gonna stick my neck on the block :tongue:), ONLY VW themselves can test and approve their own standards, and they are firkin expensive too. Another issue with the VW standards is that it is ONLY applicable to one specific name on the bottle - so to take Castrol LL3 brews - at your VW stealer, it is called "Castrol SLX Professional Powerflow LongLife 3", yet the identical brew sold in retail outfits such as Halfrauds is called "Castrol EDGE 5w30". Each of these requires a separate test and approval at VW. So this might explain why not all Castrol oils are on the 'official' VWAG lists.
Just having a quick look at the November 2007 issue of the 504.00/507.00 approved oils from Volkswagen Germany, there are twelve Castrol brews - including, get your tounge around this one - "Castrol Longlife III Hochleistungsmotorenöl". :tongue:
Should I go back, return it and demand ask for Castrol?
That is your call. If you are just using it for top ups, then I personally wouldn't bother. But if you were using it for oil changes, and wanted to keep a 'history' of using only Castrol oils, then yes. But if you do get the dealer to change it, be prepared to open your wallet again. :wink:
Is the Quantum safe for use as top-up or should I stay away from it completely?
It is perfectly safe to use, both as a top up and for complete oil changes.
Quantum is simply a manufacturer developed (Volkswagen UK in this instance) 'consumer brand' - just like say Ford use Motorcraft and British Leyland used to have Unipart. The simple fact that VW UK officially sell it should reassure you that it isn't crap. But as I said earlier, Quantum lubes should NOT be used in an official VW workshop (though peer through the MoT inspection window into the workshop of most, and you will no doubt see tins of Quantum White Grease spray, and the likes). One of the reasons you pay a higher price at a genuine stealer is that they should ONLY use genuine parts, and that includes genuine oils. If an individual comes to some prior agreement beforehand to use non-genuine parts, or Quantum lubes - then that isn't a problem.
I wonder whether I told them the car had been changed from LL to TD had any effect.
You'll never know - the mind of a stealer employee works in mysterious ways! :wink: :grin: :grin:
There's a local VAG parts place that seems to flog Quantum - again, why?
Because Quantum is 'officially' supplied by Volkswagen UK, and like I said, Quantum oils are made by Castrol. Indeed, if you need to fone up the Quantum Lubricants Technical Helpline, it goes staight through to the Castrol Techincal at Pipers Way in Swindon.
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I've bought oil from two (different franchise) dealers and both told me I needed Synta Gold :sad:
How long ago? Because from the start of 2009, Synta Gold is obsolete, see scans below.
And by using Synta Gold, not only are you failing to use an FSI-specific oil, but your car will be making less power, and using more fuel too - compared to if it were using the correct spec LongLife 3 at 5w30, or the even more 'economical' LongLife 2 at 0w30.
Perhaps they are all trying to shift old stocks of obsolete oils! I don't have a problem in general in them doing that, but they should only be pusing it to owners of older non-FSI cars, and NOT our FSI motors.
(http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t108/Teutonic_Tamer/QuantumPlatinum1.jpg)
(http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t108/Teutonic_Tamer/QuantumPlatinum2.jpg)
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Well i spoke to the dealer service manager at Drift Bridge today who credit to him actually did call me on the back of my email i sent to them. We had a discussion about the oil and he did agree that they were notified to use longlife but only in cars purchased 2008 onwards,
The stealer has got it all confused! :rolleyes:
The "2008" refers to brake fluid only. For all model year 2008 cars and newer, you must only use brake fluid approved by Volkswagen to VW 501.14, and if you don't, you will void the warranty. For earlier cars, it is still permitted to use any DOT 4 brake fluid, though if you have ABS or ESP, you should still be using an "ESP-specific" brake fluid, rather than any old generic DOT 4.
For the engine oils, the instruction from VW Germany was that for ALL "LongLife-enabled" cars, so basically virtually everything made from 2001 - then from the start of the 2009 calendar year, they should ALL be filled with 504.00/507.00 oil (ie, genuine VW LongLife 3 oil) - even if they are on T&D servicing.
Isn't it any wonder why main stealers get such a bad reputation, when they can NOT even get some fundamental, but crucial facts correct! :shocked:
i asked if the engine was different now and he said there had been some changes but i wasnt too convinced.
Nope, he his talking tosh. The first of the Mk5 GTI engines are in all intents and purposes identical to say a 2008 GTI. Of course, all engines (along with other components) might be subjected to minor revisions in parts, as models progress through the years - but the basic and fundamental specifications are identical. :smug:
Anyway to cut a long story short he agreed to change the oil to longlife on Tuesday next week so happy days! and even better it is at no cost (thank god as i already spent 950 on it)
Well that is good news - or am I just being cynical by suggesting the stealer has a 'guilty consience' ? :undecided:
I'm happy with that result, one last question though, is it essential i get the oil filter changed or will that be fine given it will have had the sh!te oil in it less than a week?
I would still ask for the filter to be changed, as it actually holds about a third of a litre. If they refuse, then ask them to ensure that the filter housing is also drained. (they have a drain valve on the bottom end of the oil filter housing, and the stealers should have a specific VW special tool - ask them if they have a "T40057" :wink:)
Cheers for the advice on this TT, seems i got a reasonalbe outcome in the end,
Your welcome. Always good to see a positive outcome.
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So i checked my rear sprayer today and it does indeed squirt straight at the lamp, how do you adjust it, do you just use some grips and move it that way or is there a proper method?
Rather than adjusting the little silver 'eyeball' jet, you need to remove the large-ish pastic cap covering the end of the wiper spindle and washer jet holder. When you look end-on at the spindle, you are actually looking at the washer jet holder, and it will be 'D' shaped, with the flat of the D at the lowest part. Gently and very lightly use a pair of pliers, and just twist this end section clockwise, so that the squirter aims in the 2 o'clock position. Don't forget to turn off the rear wiper between adjustments, because with the 'delay' in the wiper operation, it will be sods law, that when you next try to adjust the jet a touch more, the feckin wiper will suddenly start again, making you jump away!