GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: slicksps on 12 March 2009, 11:47
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Being the guy I am, I refuse to pay garage extortionate prices for a timing belt change. I bought the belt and am fitting it myself. Everyone said it was easy and apart from this one bit; it is.
But I'm trying to remove the pulley, there are 4 hex screws and they WILL NOT BUDGE
I've twisted them, hit them, heated them, oiled them overnight but nothing. I've used manual tools, electric screwdriver and I'm ready to tear my hair out...
The belt is there, I can almost get to the bottom of it and I'm so tempted just to rip off the lower cover and go around it; someone please help before I wreck my car :(
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im guessing you are on about the crack pully.
I had the same problem with my old mk2, the pully would not budge, so i ended up hacking the lowe cam cover off and running the cambbelt without any covers. Was fine, never had a problem, but its always best to have covers.
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I would be carefull running without covers as if you get a stone flicked in there it could lead to problems.
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try a aerosol called Plus Gas, should be able to get it in Halfords or a motor factor. it is normally very good at loosening these kind of stubborn things.
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all ways used an impact gun my self :evil:
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all ways used an impact gun my self :evil:
usually a good choice...
or stud extractors.. but you will need to buy new bolts.. (better in my opinion as they will be easier to remove next time)
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This might work, but seeing as you have heated them, it might not.
Try and get a set of vice-grips on them. As tight as you can. Then try and shock load it.
Might give you a large enough moment for them to budge.
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say 3 prayers to hail mary, one to the man himself and 2 to St VW, then spray half a bottle of WD40, then after that half spray abit more of WD40, then with a hammer shock the bolts afew times without giving them a heart attack and gather as much strength as you can and use some sort of breaker bar to get as much levage as possible!
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^^^May work for you, good luck
An acetylene torch will get anything off in the right hands!
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get a long ass pipe, or something thats like a metre long LOL. use to give you more leverage. and then sort of bounce on it to try and shock the bolts. but not too hard, just gently shock it and be patient. the b*stard will come out!! ohh and half a can of penetrator spray will help. and heat. f*ck it - might as well hammer it as well, even if it does nothing, it will make you feel better.
i have snapped loads of bolts in my rxII's and went through similar stages to you, except i think im worse, cause i got no head on the bolts!!! i got pi$$ed off, gave up and starting playing with the wd40/lighter :evil:
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Sod the WD40, sod the giant breaker bears and so the heat.
Just borrow an impact gun or go to a garage, you can buzz em off in about 5 seconds. Get the right tools and you won't have to spend a tonne of money buying new parts after trashing them with the wrong tools.
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And when you put the new ones in, use copper slip and dont over tighten :wink:
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Copper slip on crank pulley bolts?
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Copper slip on crank pulley bolts?
And a blowtorch for good measure ;)
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And when you put the new ones in, use copper slip and dont over tighten :wink:
Should be loctited just think what would happen if they fell out.
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No threadlock or copper slip!
Torque em up to about 50Nm and you'll be good to go.
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Thanks a billion for your ... mixed responses :)
I helped my neighbour last week with a jump start so begged her to get her mechanic boyfriend to do it and he did.
Timing belt changed and all good, need to get a bottom cover at some point because it looks like it was borked by the last people who changed it. (Removed completely for now as it's safer than leaving it in; warnings above heeded)
Engine runs fine, but now I'm paranoid, how can I tell the timing belt is on exactly the right teeth? There seems to be a bit more noise than before but performance doesn't seem to have degraded. I'll know properly tonight on a drive to Wales.
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Glad you gotted sorted mate. Opinions are always going to vary with this sort of thing
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What sort of noise is it?
If it whines then the belt might be a touch too tight and need slackening.
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It sounds a little... sportier...
Don't get me wrong, I do like it, but it sounded more conservative before.
I did also change the spark plugs just because I could and there was no record of when it was last done...
The more I do to this car the more I realise how little I really know... following steps in Haynes isn't the same as 'knowing stuff' - Today I fitted alloys, drove back round to my house from the side street and one tyre was making a very odd noise... I checked online, checked the book and put it down to needing breaking in... it was still bugging me so I went back out and it turns out I didn't actually tighten the bolts and I'm lucky to still have that wheel and attachments. t**t!
Mechanics out, I'm sticking to web design... I do understand computers.
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No threadlock or copper slip!
Torque em up to about 50Nm and you'll be good to go.
50nm will do if you like, a 10mm thread should be 77nm (i could post the torque values for most bolts plated and non, my book is around here somwhere)
I use copper slip (Sparingly) on them as they tend to Corrode together.
If the bolt is correctly torqued then no loctite is needed, Copper slip will not cause the bolts to become loose only poor tightening or re using bolts which have been stressed past their elastic limit
I only use loctite on high vibration articles and soft materials where deformation can cause loss of torque, Thread seal/lock is a different fish altogether.
You should chuck any bolts you have had to bludgeon heat or impact off as they are prone to fail especialy as they could work harden during service life.
Quick Guide
M6 Non plated 16nm PL 12nm
M8 " " 39nm PL 29nm
M10 77nm PL 58nm
M12 135nm PL 101nm
M16 330nm PL 248nm
This is for 40/43 RC alloy steel bolts ISO898/1 G12.9.
:wink:
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To get them out, I used a socket set with a hex bit adaptor, with an extension. So I didn't chew the bolt head, I hammered the hex adaptor into the bolt, then rested the extension on an axle stand and used that to keep the hex adaptor straight so it didn't half come out and chew.
Then I tapped it with a mallet loose.