GolfGTIforum.co.uk
General => The garage => Topic started by: boneybradley on 07 March 2009, 20:36
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Finally i am getting my tracking and camber adjusted tommorrow and I would like to know what people recommened? I have heard adding -1 degree camber up front will make it handle better...Is this right??
Oh yeah a mate is sorting this at his work (they don't do many modified cars but he runs an uber low polo and he's set that up!!) and its costing me all of £25 :cool: :cool:
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yup -1 camber is what DH recommended for me to use on the road, -2 if your using it on a track though.
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I ran mine at standard settings.
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-1 camber will give you keener turn-in. If you do a lot of motorway driving you may find the inside edges of the tyres wear slightly faster as the wheels aren't square to the ground.
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DH set me up with -2 atm and its pretty hard to keep it in a straight line. deffo keener to turn in and steering is much lighter and it seems to want to stay cornering rather than straighten up. Going for -1 when i get the wheels aligned properly.
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well its set to -1 and she does turn in faster and grip that bit more (but tracking is not 100% yet as we had issues with getting the rear on the machine and they did there best with the readings it gave!! it is going back next weekend so they can have another play!)
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I'm not sure how much they'll be able to do with the back end. For you 2WD boys the back end's pretty set IIRC.
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aye at the back there isnt really any adjustment. the only thing you can do is unbolt the stub axles and bodge washers behind, or get a camber shim kit which allows more precise adjustment of both toe and camber. 'EZ Shim' are generally recommended and pretty cheap too.
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washers are really bad news. if drive hard can cause fail of bolts holding stub axel on. shims are ok
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Can you alter the castor angle, 'cause this is a good setting to increase by between ½ and 1½ degrees. A castor angle increase basically improves the self-centering of the steering, and therefore improves straight line stability at speed. And it also gives the steering more feel on turn in.
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Can you alter the castor angle, 'cause this is a good setting to increase by between ½ and 1½ degrees. A castor angle increase basically improves the self-centering of the steering, and therefore improves straight line stability at speed. And it also gives the steering more feel on turn in.
The only way you can increase the caster is to loosen the front subframe and pull it as far forward as you can get it.
Increasing the toe out will help with turn in as well, but probably not to good for the tyre wear on the road.
Paul
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Can you alter the castor angle, 'cause this is a good setting to increase by between ½ and 1½ degrees. A castor angle increase basically improves the self-centering of the steering, and therefore improves straight line stability at speed. And it also gives the steering more feel on turn in.
The only way you can increase the caster is to loosen the front subframe and pull it as far forward as you can get it.
Doncha mean move it back? If you pull the subframe forward, with the strut top mounts fixed, then you are effectively reducing the castor angle!
Increasing the toe out will help with turn in as well, but probably not to good for the tyre wear on the road.
Paul
Aye, but it does give a postive feel mid corner. :wink:
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The bottom pivot point is the lower joint which is attached to the subframe. The top pivot point is the strut top mount which is fixed.
The bottom joint is further forward than the strut top mount which creates the caster angle - so if you pull the subframe and lower joint forward you will be increasing the caster angle.
Unless I'm looking at it all wrong.
Paul