GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk5 => Topic started by: neo66 on 02 March 2009, 11:50
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As subject says!......???
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have a look in the maintenance section as T_T has done a very useful comparrison on longlife etc just go to search and put in 'oil consumption'!
Mine drinks oil like i drink beer TBH! i do approx 2500 miles a month currently so tis to be expected! :smiley:
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depends on miles but id say yes if 1500- 2000 miles a month. this is what i disliked about my gti's.any other car i had used this much oil either had leek or rings gone, roughly £200 a year on oil - what a load of crap
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What sort of milage are you doing as it has great influence on the answer.
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Doing about 500 miles a month MAX!!, not on LL oil as been advised against it at all costs :lipsrsealed:.
No signs of blue smoke etc!, using CASTROL EDGE 5w-30.
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Mine has used 1.5 litres over the past 3.5 years and 35,000 miles. I wouldn't be happy with that consumption
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Mine has used 1.5 litres over the past 3.5 years and 35,000 miles. I wouldn't be happy with that consumption
Mine uses about 1 litre of oil every 6 months. Mines done 28k and hasnt put a foot wrong.
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Where is TT when you need him?
iirc VW considers up to 1200 miles for 1 litre of oil as within spec.
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I asked my garage about this and the mechanic said that modern vw / audi engines weren't as 'tight' as they used to so there was less friction and therefore more efficient / lower emissions but as a side effect more oil was being consumed. Made sense to me...
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Doing about 500 miles a month MAX!!,
So, 1 litre in two months = 1 litre per 1000 miles. Whilst this may seem a lot, it is actually inside the VW specification of upto 1 litre of oil per 1000 kilometers (just over 600 miles).
Can I ask how many miles in total the car has? And how was it run in? And how do you drive it?
not on LL oil as been advised against it at all costs :lipsrsealed:.
No signs of blue smoke etc!, using CASTROL EDGE 5w-30.
But Castrol Edge 5w30 IS LongLife oil!
Or are you saying you are not on the LongLife regime? Read here for further info: http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=65779
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FYI I have stuck in 1.5 litres since I bought her and have done 12,000.
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Where is TT when you need him?
iirc VW considers up to 1200 miles for 1 litre of oil as within spec.
No, the official VW spec is 1 litre of oil per 1000 kilometers. And this is fairly standard throughout all the European motor manufacturers.
But the important thing to remember is that the more 'higher performance' the engine is, the more likely they are to use more oil.
And equally as important, correct running in is absolutely vital. Modern VAG high performance engines are known to drink oil for the first 3-5k miles, but providing they are correctly run in, will actually settle down after that to barely a dribble of oil.
Oh, and can I not even make a brew now without you nagging me? :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:
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I asked my garage about this and the mechanic said that modern vw / audi engines weren't as 'tight' as they used to so there was less friction and therefore more efficient / lower emissions but as a side effect more oil was being consumed. Made sense to me...
Actually, it is the opposite really. Modern VAG engines (and again, most European engines, including Mercs and Beemers) are made to much tighter tollerances. However, due to these tighter tollerances, the cylinder bores are 'honed' in a special (and different to old skool) way when the engine is made. Under a microscope, these honing processes produce quite large peaks and troughs on the cylinder wall. The oil will obiously sit in the troughs, and until the engine is correctly run in, will actually burn that oil. As the engine correctly beds in, these peaks and troughs are reduced, and the quantity of oil able to be 'stored' in the troughs gets much less, hence less is burnt. :nerd:
Now, understanding the above, another important comment is regarding the 'stratified' mode and general fueling on European variants of the FSI engines - and remaps. Under certain conditions, ALL FSI engines will over fuel - this can actually 'wash' the oil from the cylinder bores, making the oil burn even more readily. But under lean burn or 'stratified' mode, less oil will be burned. Now most of the US orgininated maps do not have the stratified mode enabled - so by using one of these said maps, not only are you likely to burn more oil (and suffer the subsequent effect of reducing the life of your catalytic convertors and lambda sensors), but you are also highly likely to suffer from accelerated engine wear. :smug: So, if you are considering a remap, try and choose one from a dedicated UK or EU tuner, rather than a North American originated tuner. And if you actually have a remap with user selectable options, try and limit your high fuel settings, and instead use the boost and timing to experiment with.
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And if you actually have a remap with user selectable options, try and limit your high fuel settings, and instead use the boost and timing to experiment with.
Interesting stuff TT.
Wonder if this is why revo choose to use the lowest fuel setting i.e. leanest as default on their maps.
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Had mine for 10,000miles now and it hasnt dropped a mm, i always warm it up/down before and after a good hard run, i read somewhere ther engine is likely to burn more oil if its cold. My car had done over 40k so it may also just be more run in,
Cheers,
R
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ok, the statistics!!
Bought the car at 17K miles when it was less than a year old! (registered October 2007).
I believe the owner b4 me(1st owner) did alot of motor way miles. (hence got traded in 4 a diesel).
I,ve had it a year this summer and the mileage is now at 22K. (don't do alot of mileage what so ever!)
I try let it warm up but not always possible sometimes.
And it gets driven like a pussy to be honest because I dont wanna break it!! (but I've heard they need a bit of abuse these VW engines).
Sure it doesn't say LL oil on the bottle tho!
???????????????
Cheers guys & girls.
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I try let it warm up but not always possible sometimes.
Restraint when cold really does make sense. The vast majority of engine wear actually occurs when the engine, and engine oil are cold (or to be pedant, not at the correct operating temperature).
And it gets driven like a pussy to be honest because I dont wanna break it!! (but I've heard they need a bit of abuse these VW engines).
That can actually be worse than letting the car rev freely (again, when at the correct operating temperature). Babying a car can actually cause acids to form in the engine oil - which can then eat away the insides of your engine.
Sure it doesn't say LL oil on the bottle tho!
It may not have the physical words 'LongLife' - but it probably has "VW 504.00/507.00" - which is the VW LongLife 3 oil standard. :wink:
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ive had 2 brand new gti,s and i really looked after mine (like a new born baby) taking it easy when cold and let and run in gently etc and both have drank the oil especially the ed30, i guess its seems ive been unluckly with mine on the oil side of things
P.s my mate also had one from brand new and that drank it
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ive had 2 brand new gti,s and i really looked after mine (like a new born baby) taking it easy when cold and let and run in gently etc and both have drank the oil especially the ed30, i guess its seems ive been unluckly with mine on the oil side of things
P.s my mate also had one from brand new and that drank it
Then they really havn't been run in correctly, or get driven hard enough to correctly bed in the piston rings to the cylinder bores.
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ive had 2 brand new gti,s and i really looked after mine (like a new born baby) taking it easy when cold and let and run in gently etc and both have drank the oil especially the ed30, i guess its seems ive been unluckly with mine on the oil side of things
P.s my mate also had one from brand new and that drank it
Then they really havn't been run in correctly, or get driven hard enough to correctly bed in the piston rings to the cylinder bores.
i followed manufacturers guide in manual, i did drive them hard now and then when run in and remember thinking is this a diesel as i looked in the rear mirror. Loved the cars but this annoyed me a little, ive had 2 r32s and neither has used a drop so far (touch wood :smiley:) Also my first r32 had on longlife and after a year and 14k miles of ownership the oil was very clean.
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I think the explanation the mechanic gave me was the standard explanation to a layman so thanks for expanding on that TT.
Though I understand all thats been said its a little dissatisfying coming from my old 1.8T which had nearly 90k on the clock and didn't need any oil from service to service to a more modern engine that needs topped up every couple of months or so. Again I appreciate that this may be due to the original owner not running it in properly but then maybe VW could have educated them a bit better at handover as running your new car in by giving it plenty of revs is against conventional wisdom - almost counter intuative.
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Redline the car as often as you can. The best oil in the world won't prevent the wear you need under these thrashing circumstances.
That wear beds in the rings and your oil consumption will drop to near zero.
These modern oils are just so good if you don't rev the engine it never beds in, glugging oil down until a thrasher gets hold of the car.
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Sure it doesn't say LL oil on the bottle tho!
It may not have the physical words 'LongLife' - but it probably has "VW 504.00/507.00" - which is the VW LongLife 3 oil standard. :wink:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v55/stealthwolf/th_1aPic1S1646211290_zz_DSCN4253.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v55/stealthwolf/?action=view¤t=1aPic1S1646211290_zz_DSCN4253.jpg)
^^^
It's a clicky. HAve a look in the bottom right corner
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Sure it doesn't say LL oil on the bottle tho!
It may not have the physical words 'LongLife' - but it probably has "VW 504.00/507.00" - which is the VW LongLife 3 oil standard. :wink:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v55/stealthwolf/th_1aPic1S1646211290_zz_DSCN4253.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v55/stealthwolf/?action=view¤t=1aPic1S1646211290_zz_DSCN4253.jpg)
^^^
It's a clicky. HAve a look in the bottom right corner
Yup, that is the 'trade' version of Castrol Edge 5w30. And if you look on the rear of the bottle, it should have those 504.00 etc numbers. But the bottom right is just a 'packaging' part number which Castrol use. BTW, where did you get the German Castrol from?
Awaits next pic from the Stealth. :tongue:
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Think I will experiment by giving it a few beans then for a while!, just dont like driving like a C%Nt!!
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Mine uses a bit , does that mean if I give it a good thrashing for a while my oil consumption will drop even though it is on 22000 miles , or does the hard driving need doing at run in to have an impact
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My Ed30 has used less than 500ml in 7000 miles and I'm happy with that :smiley:
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i've had my GTi for exactly a year, got it with 35k, have done just under 5k (use the wifes car a lot)
i have only put in 210ml in that time so I guess the consumption must go down with miles
TT thanks for explaining the reasons for the oil consmption but i don't agree with your theory on the American based tuners not having tuned files that include lean burn mode, unless you have hard evidence that they don't then I don't think this advice is relevant at all
I noticed you carefully didn't mention any actual names
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Mine uses a bit , does that mean if I give it a good thrashing for a while my oil consumption will drop even though it is on 22000 miles,
Yup. Obviously, make sure it is thoroughly warm before opening her up. But you do need to regularly be hitting the red line, and and after a couple of thou miles, you should notice a real improvement in the oil consumption.
or does the hard driving need doing at run in to have an impact
Ideally, then yes. But it can be done at any time.
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TT thanks for explaining the reasons for the oil consmption but i don't agree with your theory on the American based tuners not having tuned files that include lean burn mode, unless you have hard evidence that they don't then I don't think this advice is relevant at all
I noticed you carefully didn't mention any actual names
Erm - it is a well-known and simple matter of fact. All North American FSI engines have the lean burn mode disabled. Look it up in any of the online official Self Study Guides.
The reason why American motors have lean burn disabled - well they dont have the 'ultra low sulphur' unleaded petrols like we do in the UK and Europe. Again, it is well known that North American unleaded petrols have a high sulphur content. Now, under true lean burn conditions, the combustion temperatures reach such high levels, that nasty things start happening with any sulphur content - which is exactly why VAG FSI engines have their lean burn or 'stratified' mode disabled. The same happened when Mitsubishi developed their GDI engine - they where completely unable to use it it the US and Canada, becuase Mitsubishi were not willing to disable their own lean burn mode.
And as for 'naming' and shaming certain tuning companies - well this has been discussed at length - and when one particular tuning company tried to come out with some BS that they were able to 'get hold of UK specific ECUs' - well, they were shown up for the frauds that they were! :rolleyes:
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where did you get the German Castrol from?
Off google. Went to take a pic of my own bottle but realised it was in the garage and couldn't be arsed. Didn't notice the german bit but the rest of the bottle matched what I have. And yes, bought it from stealer.
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TT, i'm well aware that american fuel isn't good enough to run lean burn mode
but saying american tuners don't include lean burn mode for EU based cars is wrong
I'm not going to quote from what was said exactly because i can't be bothered doing a search but I remember it being said on here some months ago that Regal used their own car (demo RSS) for the development of Giac UK software and they didn't modify the lean burn part of the file, why would they need to? Awesome work very closely with APR in house with their software development so who does that leave?
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the oil warning light just appeared at 8890 miles. topped it up with the 1 liter 5w40 that came with the car. Service warning has appeared. I need to get it serviced in the next 500 miles or 120 days. Oh well.
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In regards to warming her up........
When warming up do you mean starting the engine and leaving it idle until the engine warms up - since some people state this is best for the engine. Or can you drive as soon as you start up, but with a 'light foot' until the engine is warm - when you can then become a crazy maniac?!
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I don't drive like a maniac until the
speedo temperature gauge reaches 90.
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Would the RON fuel type matter in oil consumption??
I always try to use super unleaded-99% RON. Not this 97% super unleaded!?.
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In regards to warming her up........
When warming up do you mean starting the engine and leaving it idle until the engine warms up - since some people state this is best for the engine. Or can you drive as soon as you start up, but with a 'light foot' until the engine is warm - when you can then become a crazy maniac?!
I take it easy until the temp guage has been at the 90 mark for a few minutes, normally takes aoround 10 mins to fully warm up, I believe its pretty bad for a car to be warmed up without driving, in fact i think it may state not to do this in the manual somewhere.
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Not knowing this information about the loss of oil, i checked my ed30 this evening. the level is right in the middle of min-max. Is it ok there or should i try keep it more towards max?
I've only owned the car for 1000miles@18k, so cant really comment on oil consumption just yet.
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As long as its in between, you'll be fine.
So does a light come on, on the dash to inform you of a low engine oil level, or is it a case of manually checking all every so often??
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Obviously a light does come on to warn of low level in your oil but you should never get that low in the first place. I check my fluid levels on coolant oil etc every 2 weeks or so, some say it should be done weekly.
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a message appears on the dash telling you to check the oil.
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TT, i'm well aware that american fuel isn't good enough to run lean burn mode
Exactly - but if you read most interweb sites - they don't even know the nitty gritty detail of lean burn.
But you just can not yet admit to yourself, and state 'lean burn mode is completely DISABLED in North American cars'!
but saying american tuners don't include lean burn mode for EU based cars is wrong
No it isn't. Like I said, there was some blatant BS from one of those US tuners, who stupidly stated he could get hold of 'British' VW maps - yet when questioned about is numpty claims, fcuked off and was never seen again to 'fight his corner'. :smug:
At the end of the day, US tuners develop their maps for their own market - their own fuels, their own lower quality oils, their own driving styles (which generally include an auto gearbox), and their own environmental conditions. And let us just 'pretend' for one minute that they can get hold of an EU map - they certainly can NOT get hold of UK/EU fuels, and they can NOT consider UK/EU driving styles or environmental conditions.
I'm not going to quote from what was said exactly because i can't be bothered doing a search
What else can you 'not be bothered' to correctly research! :rolleyes:
but I remember it being said on here some months ago that Regal used their own car (demo RSS) for the development of Giac UK software and they didn't modify the lean burn part of the file, why would they need to?
Erm, Regal used the GIAC software purely as a development for their racing car - not road car (in the same racing series which Superchips tried to claim they were the only permitted ECU tuner! :rolleyes:). Race cars have considerably different needs and requirements compared to road cars. And if 'Regal' then redeveloped the GIAC software, then it is no longer 'GIAC' is it! :smug:
Awesome work very closely with APR in house with their software development so who does that leave?
As with Regal, if Awesome fiddle with the APR codes, then it aint APR, it is an Awsome code.
Stick with someone like Revo, who have a substantial 'Revo-owned' R&D facility here in Blighty, who have unrestricted access to proper EU cars (and not just an EU map on a US car - which would be the best possible scenario - even if the yanks could overcome the immobilser lock), British fuel, FSI-specific engine oils, British weather, and British driving habits.
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the oil warning light just appeared at 8890 miles. topped it up with the 1 liter 5w40 that came with the car. Service warning has appeared. I need to get it serviced in the next 500 miles or 120 days. Oh well.
Jeeeezz, Bobo. Don't you regularly use your dipstick? :shocked: It really aint good to rely on the oil warning lamp. :wink:
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In regards to warming her up........
When warming up do you mean starting the engine and leaving it idle until the engine warms up - since some people state this is best for the engine. Or can you drive as soon as you start up, but with a 'light foot' until the engine is warm - when you can then become a crazy maniac?!
You can start it up and just leave it to idle - it doesn't really do any harm - but the 'tree huggers' state this isn't the most environmental way of doing it. And letting it idle doesn't actually warm up the gearbox and axle oils. :nerd:
As others have said, just drive it carefully until the engine is at normal operating temperature - which means not only the engine coolant, but also the engine oil. But by the same token, don't drive off immediately after releasing the starter motor. Ideally, you should just let it idle for at least 30 seconds before even touching the accelerator pedal - and on really cold days, let it idle for about 90 seconds. This not only allows full oil pressure, and full oil flow in the top of the engine around the valve gear, but also allows the exhaust cats to correctly reach operating temperatures (so that you don't get gassed by the rotten egg smell if you immediately reverse off your driveway).
My own personal routine - start the engine, let it idle for 30-90seconds whilst putting on seatbelt, specs, lights, heated seats, etc. Then drive off in D mode, using no more than half throttle and no more than 3,000 rpm. Keep like this until temp guage is at normal, wait another 2 minutes or so for the oil to get hot (or about another 5-8 minutes in my RS4 - well it does have 10 litres of oil in the sump, not a mere 4.6 litres like the GTI :wink:). Only after that, to I progressively increase the throttle openings and engine revs.
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Would the RON fuel type matter in oil consumption??
I always try to use super unleaded-99% RON. Not this 97% super unleaded!?.
I was originally just going to say 'no'. But you got me thinking . . . .
The higher the octane fuel, the longer the engine can operate in stratified (lean burn) mode. Lean burn combustion temperatures are much higher than stoichiometric combustion temperatures. So maybe these higher temps might actually cause an increase in oil consumption????
So there - yet another Teutonic_Tamer reason why you should only use LongLife oils - because these were specifically designed for the FSI engines, whereas the T&D oils (502.00 and earlier) were not. :nerd: :smug:
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In regards to warming her up........
When warming up do you mean starting the engine and leaving it idle until the engine warms up - since some people state this is best for the engine. Or can you drive as soon as you start up, but with a 'light foot' until the engine is warm - when you can then become a crazy maniac?!
I take it easy until the temp guage has been at the 90 mark for a few minutes, normally takes aoround 10 mins to fully warm up, I believe its pretty bad for a car to be warmed up without driving, in fact i think it may state not to do this in the manual somewhere.
It isn't really 'bad' for the car - it is just environmental issues/reasons which prefer you to warm the car whilst actually driving.
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Not knowing this information about the loss of oil, i checked my ed30 this evening. the level is right in the middle of min-max. Is it ok there or should i try keep it more towards max?
I've only owned the car for 1000miles@18k, so cant really comment on oil consumption just yet.
Ideally, you should keep the oil level as close to the max as possible - and this is crucial if you drive the car hard. Because if the oil level is low, and you go round a corner hard, or accelerate hard, then those forces (lateral or accelerative) can cause the oil to 'slosh' away from the oil pick-up in the sump, and cause temporary loss of oil pressure.
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the oil warning light just appeared at 8890 miles. topped it up with the 1 liter 5w40 that came with the car. Service warning has appeared. I need to get it serviced in the next 500 miles or 120 days. Oh well.
Jeeeezz, Bobo. Don't you regularly use your dipstick? :shocked: It really aint good to rely on the oil warning lamp. :wink:
I am not very mechanically minded that's why I joined this forum to great advice. Will keep an eye on it in the future. Cheers.
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Obviously a light does come on to warn of low level in your oil but you should never get that low in the first place. I check my fluid levels on coolant oil etc every 2 weeks or so, some say it should be done weekly.
<fx/on - the 'Stig' mode>
some say it should be done weekly,
others say every month,
but the Teutonic_Tamer does it daily! :wink:
<fx/off>
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Hope you're feeling better T_T.
I vaguely remember you were ill a few weeks ago.
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the oil warning light just appeared at 8890 miles. topped it up with the 1 liter 5w40 that came with the car. Service warning has appeared. I need to get it serviced in the next 500 miles or 120 days. Oh well.
Jeeeezz, Bobo. Don't you regularly use your dipstick? :shocked: It really aint good to rely on the oil warning lamp. :wink:
I am not very mechanically minded that's why I joined this forum to great advice. Will keep an eye on it in the future. Cheers.
OK Bobo. Just try and get into the habit of checking your oil and other fluids every weekend (or fortnighly at the latest), and every month, dig out your tyre pressure guage and check all four tyre pressures. Once every three months, pull out the space saver from the boot, and check that too. :wink: :smiley:
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Hope you're feeling better T_T.
I vaguely remember you were ill a few weeks ago.
I am always 'ill' - but it is just how my symptoms affect me on day-to-day, week-to-week basis. :embarassed: I can go through some really sh!tty periods, and that makes me even more grumpy than usual. :sick:
But thanks for your concern anyway - much appreciated. :afro:
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TT, I noticed you waited 10 days to reply to my last comment about the lean burn mode and American tuners
basicly they don't include lean burn mode in EU developed files because you said so and you explaining about sulpher contents makes it a certainty
I'm quite old enough and experienced enough to make my own mind up about what tuner to choose but please don't give inacurate advice to people contemplating a remap etc
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TT, I noticed you waited 10 days to reply to my last comment about the lean burn mode and American tuners
Fcuk off. Who the fcuk do you think you are - some kind of forum nazi! :angry:
I'll answer posts in my OWN time at my own convenience - not when you fcuking say I should answer! :angry: Arrogant cnut!
basicly they don't include lean burn mode in EU developed files because you said so and you explaining about sulpher contents makes it a certainty
I'm quite old enough and experienced enough to make my own mind up about what tuner to choose but please don't give inacurate advice to people contemplating a remap etc
FOAD - I am NOT giving out inaccurate advice. North American engines, including their ECU software - do NOT have lean burn enabled. Or do you have independently verified expert proof that they do? Nope, so fcuk off - twit!
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suppose i could have put a smiley at the end of my comment about the 10 days and it would have been taken in the context I meant it
but seeing as you just are plain rude I don't see the point in continuing our disagreement and for what it's worth i couldn't care less if I never posted again on here, don't think it would be the same for you as you seem to need your ego massaged regularly and this will explain your high post count :laugh: :evil: :sad:
lastly I don't agree with your oppinion/theory on fog lamp open grilles :drool: :evil: :laugh:
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I guess theres an element of 'agree to disagree' here?
Although T_T is a knowledgable, and a valued asset, to this forum, it would be a shame to lose another member over a disagreement.
;)
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suppose i could have put a smiley at the end of my comment about the 10 days and it would have been taken in the context I meant it
Well the forum smilies are there for a purpose :wink: - and I aint a mind reader, so if you did genuinely mean it to be taken in a different context, then I apologise.
but seeing as you just are plain rude I don't see the point in continuing our disagreement and for what it's worth i couldn't care less if I never posted again on here, don't think it would be the same for you as you seem to need your ego massaged regularly and this will explain your high post count :laugh: :evil: :sad:
I am generally only rude to two types - people who are rude to me (and I think without the lack of smilies in your previous post, I think it was only fair that I considered your comment to be 'inflammatory' at best), and blatant spammers. But those who genuinely know me will know that I often go out of my way to help others. :smiley:
And I certainly don't have any 'ego' issues. Or by using your 'post count' theory, would you also then state that the likes of Hurdy, RedRobin, Rhyso, etc have a worse ego problem than me? :huh:
lastly I don't agree with your oppinion/theory on fog lamp open grilles :drool: :evil: :laugh:
I personally don't 'care' weather others agree with me or not. But my argument was well reasoned - and those arguments seem to be supported by Volkswagen Germany - you know, that massive company who actually make the cars. Ventilated fog lamp grilles were only available on pre-production and very early models - and were then subsequently replaced by fully closed grilles. But you probably know better than the third largest carmaker in the world!
Oh, and for the record, I too am old enough - and have been involved in the motor trade more years than I care to mention. And I don't get any mis-information from 'consumer magazines' like Evo, What Car, or even Volkswagen Driver. I actually read serious 'heavyweight' journals like MTZ, written by highly emminent and very highly qualified professional engineers - but again, I suppose you would reckon that the likes of Steve Croppley, Stiff Nedell, or even JC know better!
HAND. :smiley:
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There was a man on the bus today pleasuring himself with rolled up Beano comic, He said he was just doing his bit for Comic Relief.
There that should lighten the mood up :D
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I guess theres an element of 'agree to disagree' here?
With regard to the lean burn mode - then there is absolutely nothing to disagree with. It is a known and widely published fact that North American engines do not have lean burn mode enabled - and is published in some highly eminent engineering publications. And it isn't as though the Yankie engines just have the lean burn mode 'turned off' - they actually have competely different software, with the lean burn aspects completely removed. And it is this reason why there is a crucial difference between a North American ECU map and an EU one - and why you shouldn't be using a US originated software on a EU marketed engine. :nerd:
But if someone wants to 'believe' the contrary, then that is up to them. :wink:
Although T_T is a knowledgable, and a valued asset, to this forum, it would be a shame to lose another member over a disagreement.
;)
I'm not asking anyone to leave the forum. But I do take offence when somebody tries to me that I don't comply to their own personal timescale. My time is my own, and whilst I gladly give some of my time helping others on this forum - I will NOT be working to anyone elses expectations. If I owned this site, or was an Admin or Mod, then maybe that would be slightly different - but either way, I am certainly not 'answerable' to any old member of the forum. :smiley:
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There was a man on the bus today pleasuring himself with rolled up Beano comic, He said he was just doing his bit for Comic Relief.
There that should lighten the mood up :D
Didn't know you got the bus Alan? :lipsrsealed: :grin: :grin:
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"And it isn't as though the Yankie engines just have the lean burn mode 'turned off' - they actually have competely different software, with the lean burn aspects completely removed. "
Wonder if this is anything to do with their wild higher remapp dyno claims against the euro cars?
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Sorry TT - I wasnt havin a dig at ya or nothin.
For what its worth, I did agree with ya.
apologies. ;)
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"And it isn't as though the Yankie engines just have the lean burn mode 'turned off' - they actually have competely different software, with the lean burn aspects completely removed. "
Wonder if this is anything to do with their wild higher remapp dyno claims against the euro cars?
I dunno, but the yanks to like 'big numbers' in all their walks of life. When footy went over there, they moaned that you only got 'three points' for a win! Just look at their nascar racing - win one of their races, and you get about 3½ million points - for one race! :rolleyes:
But seriously, they use 'horsepower', whilst in Europe, we use stricter definitions of power, including brake-horsepower and kilowatts
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Sorry TT - I wasnt havin a dig at ya or nothin.
For what its worth, I did agree with ya.
apologies. ;)
No worries Ifti - I didn't take it as a dig. :smiley:
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"And it isn't as though the Yankie engines just have the lean burn mode 'turned off' - they actually have competely different software, with the lean burn aspects completely removed. "
Wonder if this is anything to do with their wild higher remapp dyno claims against the euro cars?
I dunno, but the yanks to like 'big numbers' in all their walks of life. When footy went over there, they moaned that you only got 'three points' for a win! Just look at their nascar racing - win one of their races, and you get about 3½ million points - for one race! :rolleyes:
But seriously, they use 'horsepower', whilst in Europe, we use stricter definitions of power, including brake-horsepower and kilowatts
Yeah they go by wheel horsepower over there. The average stage 2+ ko3 car here europe makes 250whp(280bhp) and in the USA it's 270-280whp(300bhp-310bhp). If you question it at all on their forums you more or less get told eff off and accused of not knowing what you're talking about :lipsrsealed: