GolfGTIforum.co.uk
General => The garage => Topic started by: shakeyjakeveedub on 16 February 2009, 16:18
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Hi i am currently purchashing a 1990 g reg mk2 1.3 carb golf and i have a j reg mk2 5 door gti 1.8 8v and i am just wondering what i wud need to do to put the gti engine into the 1.3. I understand i will need to use the gti tank and pump and other stuff but i am wondering what exactly i need to do with the wiring ie splicing looms together or is it basic plug and play?
any help would be appreciated thanks callum
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pretty much everything needs swapping over in the engine bay, brake servo, front calipers, brake lines to rear of car + beam and discs assuming you want to fit rear discs, (recomended to at least swap the rear beam as it has integral anti roll bar) lines under the car, both fuel pumps as well as relays from fusebox and wiring to the rear of the car (or just chop out the fuel pump loom from the donor) The actual tank does not need to be swapped but probably just as easy too since fitting the lines between the lift pump & main pump is tricky without dropping the tank at least a little.
Wiring depends on if the G reg 1.3 is actually a 90spec, or a late regged pre-90. If the hazard switch is on the column then its a 90spec and the engine/rear loom will plug in, if on dash its a pre-90 and for plug n playness the entire car loom needs swapping
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does this mean that if the hazard swith is on the steering column then i will just have to find the fuel pump loom and plug it in. Will i just need to swap the engine loom and fusebox? plus is there a guide anywhere to wiring this up as i am quite new to vws lol.
cheers callum
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the fuel pump loom is included in the main loom that powers everythig in the rear of the car, you could chop the pump loom out of the donour car but if it wa me I would just swap the whole loom over. the wiring into the tailgate unplugs behind the passenger side C pillar so its arguably easier to swap the whole thing over rather than finding the pump loom part and cutting open the loom wrap to retrieve it. I guess you would want to fit the GTI black carpet anyway so then its just a case of unplugging the rear loom and swapping it over!
If the hazard switch is on the column the 1.3 fusebox is the same as the one in the GTI, so its just the engine loom that needs swapping, the lighting loom from the 1.3 can stay :)
Check out the fusebox FAQ that should help you, if it was me and the 1.3 was a pre-90 spec, I'd rewire the entire car to 90 spec since you have the donor car there with everything you need, but thats your choice. Main difficulty there is the stering column bracket and fusebox hanger have to be swapped, and to make your life easier the dash needs to come out to remove the dash loom. While the dash is out that would be a great time to swap in a new heater matrix and bin the bypass valves if fitted, but again thats your choice :)
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cheers for the advice. i will find owt for definite tommorow whether it is pre or post 90 hopefully post as it wud make it a hell of alot easier by the sounds of it. if they have the same fusebox will the loom just plug straight in? also is there a guide on here showing this conversion? again thanks. callum
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yeah its plug n play if the same fusebox, keep the other one for spares though they loke to leak water on the fusebox and this causes odd electrical problems :)
Its relatively straight forward mostly a case of swap bits over that are different, there are a few threads on this kind of job but it can take a bit of effort to find them.
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cheers for that, i found out today that the hazard switch is on the column which has macde me feel alot happier :smiley: lol. On the 5 door gti that i have there is a flick switch in which is to bypass the immobiliser but i wud rather have none at all, any way i can get round this? also i noticed today that there is sum sort of microswitch on the throttle which is activated at full throttle, i was just wondering wot this is??
thanks callum
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you need to get behind the dash, follow that switch to where it goes. once you find the imobilisor box it should become obvious where it has been spliced into, its just a case of matching the wire colours that have been chopped and joining them back together!
As for the switch, thats the wide open throttle switch, tells the ECU the throttle is wide open :)
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Wud u reccomend that i label all of the plugs and wot not to make things easier? and wen i take the tank owt of the gti will i take the wiring and just plug it into the 1.3 loom, wud this work? Do the plugs on the back of the fusebox just clip off and will i just clip the ones from the gti loom into them? thanks again callum
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yeah it'll help you figure out where they go, vw looms are petty good though usually the plug/wire colours match and generally they will only plug into the right spot. Once you drop the tank down follow the loom back and drag out the wiring to the rear of the car, it'll plug right into the 1.3 fusebox. The fusebox plugs will all only plug in the correct spot, the alignment tabs, shape of the plug and pin layour for each is unique :)
One thing though, once you drop the fusebox notice there is liek a bar along the back in the middle. There is a tab at 1 end you need to pull outwards, this releases all the locking tabs along the middle. then the other end of the plug has a clip, release that and the plug will come out.
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also could you please explain to me how i would install the mfa? is the wiring attached to the engine loom? plus wot is the small rubber pipe on the rear of the clocks for? thanks callum.
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if you fit the GTI engfine loom all the mfa sensor wires are included, you just need to fit the GTI mfa stalk -> fusebox loom and also the clocks -> fusebox loom. Vac pipe is for the mpg display :)
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I have been having a think about this conversion and i was wondering how hard it would be to to run the gti engine on r1 bike carbs? I know that i will have to make/ get a manifold made to accomodate these. Just wondering if i leave the tank as it is but use a r1 fuel pump to get the correct pressure. the wiring would be my main problem reffering to ignition and other stuff like sensors? I am just wondering this as my friend has a car with these carbs on and the sound is unreal plus it means a lot less wiring lol. Just seems more of a simpler way of doing it. i have priced up the carbs and they are roughly 50-150 and the manifold could be around 200.
Any help would be appreciated cheers callum.
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that should work ok, you get heat soak problems on 8vs tho due to inlet being direct above the zaust, plus carbs end up stuffed against the bulkhead. if you really want to go this way the ign side is easy, source a dizzy from a 1.8 8v GTI with k-jet managment, all the advance is done mechanically with weights and a vacuum connection. Just need the coil->tci->dizzy loom from a 1.6-1.8 carb or k-jet MK2 and you're away.
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also would i need to get a vacuum outlet on the manifold for the brake servo? Is there anywhere that i would be able to source these parts direct or is it just a scrapyard job? lol cheers again
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yeah you would, plus a nipple for the dizzy tho if you use a MK2 servo pipe theres 2 included on the non-return valvy thingy.
gsf might do you a new dizzy but the loom is an ebay job, the loom off the 1.3 would work actually, though the lengths would need a bit of tweaking. The digifant GTI one is no good as the hall sensor wires from dizzy go to ECU not TCI plug, though with some splicing you could possibly make it work...
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so if i get the carbs manifold and dizzy i could use the loom off the 1.3 for the starter and altenator? wud the tci of the gti work? also would the vacuum that goes to the dizzy come from the carbs or the inlet manifold? cheers callum
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starter and alternator probably not, its all moved around a bit on the small block engines, these bits you need from a 1.6+ manual mk2.
tci from carb or gti would work, they're the same, as is the coil :)
the difference is the length of the wires to dizzy, 1.3 is on side o head, 1.8 is on front o block. Vacuum for dizzy normally comes from the inlet manifold, off 1 of the nipples on the no-return valve on the chunky pipe to brake servo (the yellow and black thing)
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So is it possible to extend the wires for the alternator and other wiring? also if i put an outlet on one of the inlet runners and took the vacuum for the dizzy from the non return valve wud this then work? Cheers again callum
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alternator wiring i'd not extend, either get some gti ones or make up newuns, these supply all the power for the car so splicing not recommended! dizzy wiring yeah you can splice in a little extra length if need be, you might get away with it though case of suck it n see :)
yeah the vacuum should work ok, just a case of gettin the outlet close to the factory spot so your old servo pipe will reach :)