GolfGTIforum.co.uk
General => The garage => Topic started by: vwsystems on 03 July 2004, 15:09
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i may have told you this but here it is again! if i havent!
there has been queit a few people with high idle problems. and most people seem to think its an isv fault or something to do with the temp sender but as long as the isv is buzzing and clean it isnt the isv...........
i have had the same problem with my idle for years
it just wouldnt settle! or it would idle high and then drop and keep revving up! very annoying...and the cause the throttle switches! one controls the idle and tells the ecu when the throttle is closed and puts it in idle mode! and the other one does the full throtttle.
i only found out that the switch was faulty when i brought another throttle from a mate and he said the throttle switches dont work........... so i plugged my connector on it and they were still on the throttle body which i brought and all of a sudden it idled! i opened the throttle in my hand and closed it it reved up and then idled so thats how i knew it was the throttle switches! the lad was right one of the switches didnt work but i'm glad the idle one did as this was the only was i found out it was the switches if i hadnt of done this i'd have still had the revving up problems!
and all long i use to keep tapping the isv thinking it was this when it wasnt! >:(
it even went to circus side and they just screwed the idle all the way in it was pretty tight! so it proves they know naff all about electronic idle problems!
god help them with the mk 5 faults........ if they cant fix a 17 year old car how the hell are they going to fix a car which everything is controled electronicly! ;D
so if your idle has never been right and is always idling high or starts to you know what it may be!
on saying that the wiring can snap and this causes the same problem........ if the wiring to the throttle switches look ok get a mutimeter on it and it should read 5v with ignition on if it doesnt then theres a break in the wiring!
so in the future if any idle problems appear just remember to see if all of the switches on the engine work ok!!
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Thanks for the info!
My car always seems to idle on 1100 revs constantly, sounds like the switchs could be the problem!
As I am pretty new to all of this, can you show me with a pic where the switches are, and how much are these to replace?
Cheers
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i think they were about ?43 they are located on top of the throttle body!
i'll try and get some pics............
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Thanks mate, i'll wait for the pics :)
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deefadog, 16v idle is between 950-1050rpm
if anything set your MFA into diagnostic mode and it will give you a digital display of the revs's - this is a lot more accurate than the clock
to set your idle
get the car upto running temp
turn engine off
disconnect the red wire coming from the coil (this turns the ISV off)
disconnect the engine breather at the airbox end
start the car
adjust the idle screw till its at 1000rpm
turn the car off again
re-connect the red wire
and thats your idle set
if it wont sit at a steady idle but flucuates up n down by +-50rpm then you need to get the CO level adjusted to 2%
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You SHOULD do the idle AND the co adjustment, as they are linked.
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How will an oil change reduce the co level ???
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How will an oil change reduce the co level ???
dunno m8....but thats what it says....4F.2 ???
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How will an oil change reduce the co level ???
??? ??? ??? wtf?
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Thanks, how do i set the MFA into diagnostic mode?
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with the ignition switced off, hold the MFA button in, then with the button still held in turn the ignition on, then off then start the car
always making sure you hold the button in till the car is started
then scroll thru the options on setting 2, there is a digital rev count somewhere there!
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this link shows all the various settings
MFA Diagnostic Mode (http://www.myscirocco.com/scirocco/mfa/engels/mfa_02.html)
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Thanks Gambit, never new that existed :)
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Anyone got a list of the readings a 16v golf should Be, the readings on there are for cabs and other models.
Thanks again
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deefadog, 16v idle is between 950-1050rpm
if anything set your MFA into diagnostic mode and it will give you a digital display of the revs's - this is a lot more accurate than the clock
to set your idle
get the car upto running temp
turn engine off
disconnect the red wire coming from the coil (this turns the ISV off)
disconnect the engine breather at the airbox end
start the car
adjust the idle screw till its at 1000rpm
turn the car off again
re-connect the red wire
and thats your idle set
if it wont sit at a steady idle but flucuates up n down by +-50rpm then you need to get the CO level adjusted to 2%
Can you pelase show me a pic of the red wire and coild and which engine breather, is this the one that goes into the front of the engine?
and how do you adjust the CO, any links please
Thanks
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use this link for settin up your 16v
16v setup (http://www.btinternet.com/~gvk_motorsport/16valvestall.html)
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Cheers mate, that's great. Got everything set up now!
Should my intake vaccum reading be 510?
Thanks again
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havent got a clue bout the intake vacuum as i've never bothered to check mine. ill give it a go over the weekend and let you know
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Thanks mate, have a good weekend!
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Gambit, did you have a chance to check?
Cheers
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nah i never got round to looking ::)
ill defo check tonight on the way home!!
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my intake was 510 also when fulled warmed up and idling
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Thanks mate, since I had my timing and idle set up right, the intake reading is now 560, don't know why :)
What the hell is this reading for anyway, what the vaccum intake do?
Take care
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the higher the idle the higher the intake as its sucking more air in
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I see, thanks.
If my engine was missing because the ht leads were knackered would this effect the idle, thus the intake?