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General => Car audio => Topic started by: bmouthboyo on 02 February 2009, 13:15
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Hi everyone just a few quick questions.
From my old car i have some alpine type r 6.5 inch components which i am planning on using in the front doors of my 3 door mk3.
I i guess its easier to buy some new speakers for back as my parcel shelf isnt strong enough for 6x9 really, my question is should i buy another set of components or shall i buy some coaxials? I'm thinkin co axials as they would probably handle the lower range bass better than 2 sets of components.
Also i am hooking this up to my pheonix gold 4 channel amp, is there a good hole in the engine bay to wire power to it in the boot?
thanks
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First things first, don't bother with any type of rear speakers.
In my car I have 3 speakers (technically 5 if you include the tweeters). I have a set of components and a sub, all running off an amp, you don't need 6x9s, that's just chavtastic lol! OEM look is what it's all about, rear speakers will only take the sound away from the front which is where you want the sound stage to actually be.
The sound I get is phenomenal. I love it, the only thing I plan on doing is getting a better amp in the summer.
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If you look behind the lower shelf from the front passenger footwell (under the glovebox) you'll see where the main loom goes through the bulkhead, ideal for power to the amp as it's inline with the battery, easy to get too & feed under all the plastic trim out of site! :afro:
Did mind today! :)
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Each to their own Shady!
I have two sets of components in the 4 doors run from the H/U and 6x9's on the shelf and a 10" sub both run from an amp.
I would say try the 6x9's and if you like the sound then keep it!
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Each to their own Shady!
I have two sets of components in the 4 doors run from the H/U and 6x9's on the shelf and a 10" sub both run from an amp.
I would say try the 6x9's and if you like the sound then keep it!
Oh I know lol! But I prefer my setup as is :), the only thing I plan to do it get a more powerful amp, probably get a 2 channel and a mono amp, to provide extra power to them both :)
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Thanks for advice so far,
I already have my old 4 channel amp and i don't think i could bridge 2 channels for an amp and get decent power so I'm going down the 4 speaker root.
I do have my 6x9 still and with my components they sounded great in my old car but i had a acoustic stealth shelf and in my golf i have a flimsy shelf so really want to shy away.
I'm basically thinking components in front and either component or coaxial in back???
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Thanks for advice so far,
I already have my old 4 channel amp and i don't think i could bridge 2 channels for an amp and get decent power so I'm going down the 4 speaker root.
I do have my 6x9 still and with my components they sounded great in my old car but i had a acoustic stealth shelf and in my golf i have a flimsy shelf so really want to shy away.
I'm basically thinking components in front and either component or coaxial in back???
why can you not bridge it to get decent power?
If you must have any speakers in the back then I would only go for coax. Rip the tweeter out of them too if you can, or cut the wires going to it.
best bet is to bridge the 4ch to create two channels and use them for the front comps. leave the coax's running from the HU.
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you need to 6x9s!!!! they give you low range sound and give the sound more depth. type r component set is awesome, and is what i am looking at getting at some point.
using the 4 channel, run the the 6x9's and front comps off that. should sound awesome with a monoblock/sub setup too!
and as 88 said, there is hole under the glove box. in the bay, it is sort of under the coolant tank, it is a black rubber circle on the bulkhead.
LL ;)
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you need to 6x9s!!!! they give you low range sound and give the sound more depth.
really? or are you joking? I hope so.
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you need to 6x9s!!!! they give you low range sound and give the sound more depth. type r component set is awesome, and is what i am looking at getting at some point.
using the 4 channel, run the the 6x9's and front comps off that. should sound awesome with a monoblock/sub setup too!
and as 88 said, there is hole under the glove box. in the bay, it is sort of under the coolant tank, it is a black rubber circle on the bulkhead.
LL ;)
Thanks for the advice mate thats good help, I won a set of JBL components locally of ebay so will try them running on he amp, so basically 2 sets of components, hopefully i can get the base i achieved with my old 6x9's.
Why do people hate 6x9 so much? is it just cause they look tacky? i had mine in stealth shelf and they sounded great. to my ears anyway lol
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Why do people hate 6x9 so much? is it just cause they look tacky? i had mine in stealth shelf and they sounded great. to my ears anyway lol
Too many reasons to name but I will give it a go....
They advertise your stereo to anyone who cares to take a look through your back window, with a covered parcel shelf you can solve this one though.
They will confuse your brain into thinking the sound is coming from everywhere rather than from one place which is the eventual aim with stereo sound.
You can kind of get around this by not having your 6x9's running full range sound, only bass. However better results can be achieved by using a sub for this purpose.
They will be disturbed or in some cases cancelled out when using a sub in the boot.
They are oval which is strictly the wrong shape for speakers ( not that any difference would be noticeable in most cases)
They are designed, again in most cases to run from HU power and will not like being amped.
They are not generally as well built as a half decent set of components.
and the most important one is that they are unnecessary, they are just not needed in most cases, including yours.
The only time they are of any use at all is if for some reason you cannot have a sub and you are on a very strict budget ( like 30 quid). Even then though you would be better off saving a bit more money and buying some components and an amp ( and eventually a sub), which you already have.
6x9's also have their purpose as the proverbial ''gateway drug'' into the ''proper'' sub and amp world.
If you were not in bournmouth ( I assume from your name ;)) I would invite you to come and have a listen to my and, see if you like that sound ;) The reason you probably liked the sound of your 6x9's before is because you were used to it.... now if I hear some rear speakers, any rear speakers at all, I want to rip my ears from my head, it is worse than hearing distortion.
The offer still stands TBH, if you are ever in the worcestershire area or fancy a journey you are welcome to have a listen.
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Very good reasons there buddy, may I add to the above by saying 6x9s are generally the chav speaker of choice, go and look at almost any chavs car and you'll see a set of 6x9s. It's just tacky, even if they are stealthed away.
Components, sub and amp all the way, if you want to have rear speakers, some coaxial or components in the rear doors will do.
If you wanted to listen to a component and sub only setup, I can offer you to have a listen to see what it's like as I'm closer to Bournemouth than tommk3 ;) (sorry matey lol). You will notice the difference.
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:rolleyes:
6x9's ftw, all the reasons mentioned above about them being sh!te are opinion, each to their own. when i ran my system without 6x9's it didnt sound as good with them running.
its all about having range to get more depth. type r comps and 6x9s soon, all amped and tuned, will sound immense!!!
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:rolleyes:
6x9's ftw, all the reasons mentioned above about them being sh!te are opinion, each to their own. when i ran my system without 6x9's it didnt sound as good with them running.
its all about having range to get more depth. type r comps and 6x9s soon, all amped and tuned, will sound immense!!!
Always gotta show off ain't ya :P
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6x9's ftw, all the reasons mentioned above about them being sh!te are opinion.
unfortunately it is really not. It is proven fact.
opinion would be... I don't like the sound of them... which I don't.
The the reasons above explain some of the reasons why even you don't really like them, you just don't know it yet.
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My very flash Sony 6x9's (red/silver) have been on an MDF parcel shelf for over 5 years now!
The only thing I may change them for is the Kenwood 7 x 10's in my Pug! :grin:
Nowt wrong with 6 x 9's at all. In fact sonically due to their shape they are more rigid than a round cone speaker, so actually produce cleaner bass!
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Nowt wrong with 6 x 9's at all. In fact sonically due to their shape they are more rigid than a round cone speaker, so actually produce cleaner bass!
orly?
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tinki opened a can of worms lol
Reason i kinda shy away from sub is that i dont want to have to buy power cap, spare battery, amp, sub etc
plus around here there is nothing more chavvy than a sub blairing out lol
im going to run 2 set of components, last question is i have my type r that are very good and some half decent ones i picked off ebay, should i have best at front or back?
cheers
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tinki opened a can of worms lol
Reason i kinda shy away from sub is that i dont want to have to buy power cap, spare battery, amp, sub etc
plus around here there is nothing more chavvy than a sub blairing out lol
im going to run 2 set of components, last question is i have my type r that are very good and some half decent ones i picked off ebay, should i have best at front or back?
cheers
best at front, why? funnily enough, back to the 6x9's!
which way do you ears point when you sit in the car?
where are you sat when you are in the car ( driving ;))
you won't need a powercap if you have a sub, you won't need a power cap ever unless you want a pretty thing to look at ( they are functionless in other words)
If you don't want to hear a sub then decent deadening should sort that out ;) and correct tuning of course.
you have PM.
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tinki opened a can of worms lol
Reason i kinda shy away from sub is that i dont want to have to buy power cap, spare battery, amp, sub etc
plus around here there is nothing more chavvy than a sub blairing out lol
im going to run 2 set of components, last question is i have my type r that are very good and some half decent ones i picked off ebay, should i have best at front or back?
cheers
You don't need a power cap or extra battery to run an amp & sub dude! :D
I've been accumulating over the past few weeks & fitted this lot in my boot recently fore the pricely sum of £37 + P&P ;)
(http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m12/eightyeightmph/photo-3.jpg)
Shop around & you'll pick up bargains!
Alpine 2x90W Amp was a tenner
Alpine 12" Sub in box was £20
Phonos (gold plated) £7
Amp wiring kit was out of a car at the scrappy for free
I listen to rock, metal & on the odd occasion some drum & bass, nothing chavvy about it, just makes everything sound loads better! :D
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now i know people disagree with the 6x9 thing, but a sub - now you need one of them! tbh i want more bass lol!
like someone said already though, a decent set of components, say type r with crossovers and tweeters and sound deadening, means you can turn bass up without distortion or much vibration.
LL ;)
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My sub and amp both feed power from same as H/U.
Power caps are crap anyway!
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so i heard, im was thinking about getting bigger amp and more powerful subs, but all the lights dim enough already lol!
mmmmmm bigger alternator....................
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so i heard, im was thinking about getting bigger amp and more powerful subs, but all the lights dim enough already lol!
mmmmmm bigger alternator....................
Bigger engine! :lipsrsealed:
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so i heard, im was thinking about getting bigger amp and more powerful subs, but all the lights dim enough already lol!
mmmmmm bigger alternator....................
Bigger engine! :lipsrsealed:
sorting that out atm, OK!!!!! :D
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If you get power loses like that then you should probably run a direct cable to the battery to the amps.
And also get your alternator checked.
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My sub and amp both feed power from same as H/U.
are you saying your amp power cable goes to the permanent live for your HU?
If you get power loses like that then you should probably run a direct cable to the battery to the amps.
Is there any other way?
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My sub and amp both feed power from same as H/U.
are you saying your amp power cable goes to the permanent live for your HU?
If you get power loses like that then you should probably run a direct cable to the battery to the amps.
Is there any other way?
I believe so! Billy wired it up so not sure! Has worked fine for 3 years or so, so why change it?
As for your second point as above and if it aint broke why fix it?
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I can't believe what i'm reading :laugh:. 6x9 are a Big no no in car audio circles. When you get a decent set of components and i mean decent and run off a powerful amp. You dont even a sub. Personally i couldn't live without sub bass in my sytem but with 6x9's you drag the sound backwards. Eg If you were at a concert, would you sit at the back and turn you back on the band?? :huh:
If the system is setup correct, then the sub is balanced with the rest of the sound.
If your lights are dimming then you will need to sort out your cabling. Add some proper sized power and earth cable. No point adding alternators and batteries if your supply cables cant supply any more current. Sounds like its a fire waiting to happen :shocked:
I have two different systems in my cars. 1 has expensive components and quality 10" sub in a sealed enclosure all runing off a single rockford Amp. The sound is very clean and clear.
The other is a two JBL amp system. One amp is 100w/ channel running some average components (which i am looking to change). The other amp is 600w RMS running a 12" sub in a ported box. This system is alot louder but not as clean because the components are cheaper. And not a rear speaker in site and def no 6x9's. This car has 0 gauge cables for battery earth and power for amps and the lights never dim even wen cranked up.
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As said right at the beginning - each to his own!
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I believe so! Billy wired it up so not sure! Has worked fine for 3 years or so, so why change it?
As for your second point as above and if it aint broke why fix it?
I am just very suprised you have not at least blown fuses on regular occasions!
what amp (s) do you have running from it?
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May not be fused!! :huh:
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Amp is a Sony 4 channel with 2 channels bridged for sub, the other 2 running 6x9's
Has blown fuse once but thats all.
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Amp is a Sony 4 channel with 2 channels bridged for sub, the other 2 running 6x9's
Has blown fuse once but thats all.
Is this the stereo fuse in the fusebox?
do you never have it turned up all that loud?
A 4 channel amp should have at least 40A of fusing in total and HU fuses in the fusebox are normally only 20A. The wiring for the HU is only capable of about 20A down the full length of it ( like most internal car wiring). I am very surprised the fuse blowing is the only problem you have had, unless you never turn it up.
May not be fused!! :huh:
It must be fused unless someone has messed with the cars main fusebox. Or the HU wiring has been rerouted direct to the battery, but then I would have thought the amp power cable would also be there.
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very rarely turn it up more than half way. Amp is turned down to match HU anyway.
Yea fuse is in main fuse box for system.
Oh and yes only time it did blow was on high power at Bugjam! :grin:
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never been a fan of 6x9s myself either,comp sets produce far nicer sound
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I'm running two 6x9s on a home-made stealth shelf with a home-made arch sub install in the boot and have to say the rule about not running 6x9s over a sub really can be heard in my car :rolleyes:
It's actually bassier to have just the 6x9s running without the sub, which is why I'm planning on properly going over the boot and soundproofing and getting some components up front. Also definitely sounds a bit rubbish with the speakers at the back so I'm definitely making it strong up front
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It's actually bassier to have just the 6x9s running without the sub.
It may be worth a try either flipping the polarity of the sub or both of the 6x9's together. This may help them not to cancel each other out, you are fighting a loosing battle though.